DAY 11: Wednesday, July 24th (1 zoo)
Settle back with a drink and a snack, as this is a 3,700-word essay:
Zoo/Aquarium # 31: Pairi Daiza (Brugelette, BE)
Scarcely anyone could have predicted that a bird garden that opened in 1994 (as Parc Paradisio) would become one of the largest and most outrageous zoos on the planet. I plodded around for 8.5 hours on a sweltering hot day of 37 degrees Celsius (98 Fahrenheit), but I was determined to view every last exhibit as the zoo is spectacular. I loved Pairi Daizi, and other than San Diego and Omaha I would call it the best all-around zoo I’ve ever seen. I honestly went into the zoo a little ambivalent, as I wasn’t sure if the theming would be too excessive, or the exhibits not up to modern standards, or the whole thing reminiscent of a Disney-like experience with maybe some rides hidden around corners. Photos on ZooChat don’t really convey the whole story of this special zoo, as it is genuinely filled with top-notch, first-rate animal habitats. The zoo does not resemble a theme park and there are no rides or ‘cast members’ in costume or anything else of such silliness. It is not even close to a traditional zoo, and thus truly unique in every sense of the word. Everything gives off the appearance of being shiny and brand-new in all directions. There are flaws, just like with every zoo, and the labelling in a couple of buildings is downright shoddy, but overall Pairi Daiza is now my #3 zoo of the almost 500 that I’ve visited. I haven’t been to Chester, or Prague, or Singapore, or Vienna, but I have been to this Belgian zoo and it’s revolutionary.
I had friends along for this trek in the form of a trio of British zoo nerds from colder climes. We spent 8.5 hours at Pairi Daiza, saw everything with no shows or presentations included, and the heat was overpowering at times as western Europe is currently undergoing a record-setting heatwave. Linda Waterworth is the main photographer for the magazine Zoo Grapevine & International Zoo News, Mike Grayson is species identifier extraordinaire and editor of that same magazine, and then there is Tim Brown. He founded the IZES (Independent Zoo Enthusiasts Society) in 1995 and has been a terrific friend of mine for a good number of years now. We met in Belgium for the first time ever, even though we’ve written a book together (America’s Top 100 Zoos & Aquariums) that is due to be published later this year. Ever since I initially suggested to Tim that we pool our considerable zoo-visiting knowledge together to write a book (that was way back in 2012) we have been emailing back-and-forth almost daily and I forward innumerable emails to him about worldwide zoo events or information about our book. To meet Tim face-to-face for the first time, after at least 2,000 emails, was heartwarming. He is a fount of knowledge and even bought the four of us a delightful lunch on the balcony of one of the zoo’s many quality restaurants.
Pairi Daiza, back in 2010, had just over 700,000 annual visitors but the growth in that area has been nothing short of phenomenal in just under a decade. The zoo is projected to surpass two million visitors this year, more than TRIPLING its visitor numbers in 9 years. What will Polar Bears and penguins add next year? It’s mind-boggling. There are very few zoos on the continent that will be as popular, and even if one were to combine visitor numbers for Antwerp and Planckendael, then Pairi Daiza still has more people pouring through the turnstiles each year. The fact is that those zoos will simply never catch up. The craziest thing of all is that Pairi Daiza is only open 8 months a year, including a brief stretch over Christmas. Within the zoo are the ruins of the Cistercian Abbey of Cambron, which was founded in 1148 and was eventually abandoned in 1789. That is the oldest human-made structure, but even though Pairi Daiza has built a Bonsai garden, a full-size Buddhist Temple, a Chinese garden and enough human buildings to create a mini-city, it is easy to forget that some elements are hundreds of years old. For example, the entrance is extremely unobtrusive and a far cry from many more grandiose zoo entrances. Arriving at the zoo is also a bizarre experience, as there is nothing but farmer’s fields for many miles and the town of Brugelette only has 3,000 inhabitants. Brussels is an hour away from the zoo, Antwerp is an hour and a half away, and yet Pairi Daiza is one of the most popular zoos on the planet. It’s all kind of surreal; ‘if you build it, they will come’.
On 4 separate occasions during this road trip I have seen billboards in Belgium (plus one in France!) extolling the virtues of Pairi Daiza and calling it ‘Europe’s Best Zoo’. That statement is even on the zoo’s own website, which is one form of advertisement/braggadocio. The park is divided into ‘worlds’ on its 173 acres/70 hectares and one really nice thing is that even with hundreds of people lined up before the 10:00 opening time (which really is too late for a zoo of this girth), once the floodgates were opened everyone dispersed and at no point during the day were we crowded or having to jostle for position except for a few minutes inside the Reptile House.
This is honestly a zoo for everyone, and I think that it a key theme to remember when reading this review. The masses are going because Pairi Daiza really has become one of the best zoos in Europe, if not the world. There are 7,000 animals and 700 species, bolstered by having an Aquarium but nevertheless it seems at times as if the entire animal kingdom is present. There are elephants galore (22 of them of two species), giraffes, rhinos, hippos, gorillas, orangutans, loads of primates and big cats, an Aquarium with 47 tanks, an extensive Reptile House, birds in every corner, and there will be 5 species of bear once the Polar section opens next year. Zoo nerds should adore this place. There are rarities for the general public such as Giant Pandas and Koalas and very few zoos on Earth have both of those, but then for the zoo nerds there are Spix’s Macaws, Lear’s Macaws, Bulwer’s Pheasants, Golden Takins and a Sulawesi Bear Cuscus. It’s all rather extraordinary.
Let’s take a tour through the zoo and its 8 ‘worlds’:
The Last Frontier: What kind of zoo can casually open a brand-new area that is 20 acres/8 hectares in size? I’ve visited hundreds of zoos that are smaller than that and yet The Last Frontier is only a small slice of the whole Pairi Daiza experience, and it opened for the zoo’s 25th anniversary. There are Eurasian Brown Bears and Grey Wolves together in an exhibit that is about the size of a Tolkien forest, and in a separate exhibit there are more Brown Bears with American Black Bears and the whole thing is spectacular although one of the bear exhibits is very open and lacking tree cover. These are spacious exhibits with tons of natural-foraging behaviour happening and with copious amounts of water. There is also a fantastic Steller’s Sea Lion exhibit with underwater viewing, numerous lodges to stay the night if you have the desire, a massive restaurant, a Canadian-themed gift shop, Moose, Wapiti, a huge Puma exhibit and a Native American theme throughout. Even with a few quibbles here and there, this is a world-class addition and it will likely look even better once the undergrowth kicks in a little.
Cambron-Abbey: This is the older section of the zoo, with not much in the way of theming and more of an old-school zoological approach. That being said, it’s a rewarding first experience when one passes through the entrance gate. There is a large Tropical House that contains a restaurant, some of the usual suspects like Meerkats, White-faced Sakis, several hornbills and various parrots, but then zoo nerds begin to salivate as there are species such as Sulawesi Bear Cuscus (a fascinating creature), Bulwer’s Pheasant, St. Lucia Amazon Parrot, St. Vincent Parrot and Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. A good half-hour or more can easily be spent admiring denizens of the tropics.
Outside are large aviaries for Spix’s Macaws and Lear’s Macaws and then a series of fantastic birds of prey aviaries which includes a walk-through exhibit with a host of species inside. This whole area is top-notch, with some obvious birds, but yet again there are uncommon types for a Canadian zoo nerd such as Long-crested Eagle, African Fish Eagle, Booted Eagle, Lanner Falcon, African Harrier Hawk and Bearded Vulture. Arguably the highlight of the entire day occurred just past this point, with a trio of Lowland Tapirs resembling river dolphins as they plunged into their mini-lake and surged through the water. It was memorable, with the tapirs practically breaching like Orcas as they would sink beneath the surface and then shoot up out of the water 10 feet away. Even a simple tapir paddock is large and with ample enrichment for the South American species at this zoo.
The towering Abbey is home to a walk-through bat exhibit that is extremely dark and quiet, until the whisk of bat wings practically strokes one’s face in the dim surroundings. A fantastic experience and an eerie one, with Egyptian Fruit Bats everywhere and even roosting next to their identification sign. We were within inches of a particularly large one, but we resisted the urge to pet it seemed too risky. It is an incredible exhibit, and elsewhere is a nocturnal section with Naked Mole Rats and Grey Mouse Lemurs (which we saw). This part of the zoo also has some barnyard animals and several more aviaries.
Cambron-By-The-Sea: This is a small, central zone, with penguins free to roam a substantial exhibit (although they stay in one section when visitors are about) and Harbour Seals having what is probably one of the zoo world’s largest pinniped exhibits as their enclosure encompasses part of a lake. The whole thing is very close to a full-on walk-through, complete with a massive white lighthouse and with visitors able to get relatively close to the animals. Across the sandy path is a nice exhibit with underwater viewing for South African Fur Seals, giving Pairi Daiza a trio of pinniped species.
The zoo’s Aquarium is a grand old building that dominates the skyline, and it is a major source of animals as I counted 47 tanks inside. However, some of those exhibits are very tiny, most are average-sized and honestly quite boring, and the largest tank is for some sea turtles and Blacktip Reef Sharks that is an awkward shape and partly goes over the heads of visitors. The Aquarium is probably my least favourite part of the entire zoo, mainly because it is a colossal missed opportunity. There are plenty of tanks, but easily 15 of those tanks have zero signs. We didn’t know what kind of fish we were looking at, many of the exhibits are dull, and the whole building needs an overhaul. There is a lot of potential with the space in what could be a revelatory Aquarium, but as things stand right now it’s a major dud. It’s a real shame, as the zoo’s signs are gorgeous and with hand-drawn animal images on each of them instead of a photograph.
The Land of the Cold: This area is very tiny and currently consists of only 3 species (Raccoon, Reindeer, American Bison) until next year, when another multi-acre, gazillion-Euro complex will open. There are a trio of enormous construction cranes on the site, plus an unlabeled new exhibit going up just behind a frontier-type shop, and 2020 will herald the arrival of Polar Bears and Antarctic penguins with some enormous buildings already well under construction.
Southern Cape: This is an excellent walk-through Australian zone, with a nicely themed aviary, the usual assortment of macropods and parrots, but then also Koalas, Long-nosed Potoroos and even Tasmanian Devils.
The Middle Kingdom: This section has a labyrinth series of pathways through an incredibly detailed Asian zone. There are pagodas and temples that are not mock-creations but full-size, fully-functioning structures that serve as restaurants, a place for prayer or decorative backdrops. From start to finish, the animal exhibits in this part of the zoo are all excellent and it’s a mini-zoo-within-a-zoo. The mammal species list is sensational and includes Giant Panda (three exhibits plus a viewing cave area), Red Panda (two exhibits), Snow Leopard (two exhibits), Golden Takin, Binturong, Giant Otter, Southern Yellow-cheeked Gibbon, Japanese Macaque, Francois Langur and Asiatic Black Bear. There is a walk-through aviary with at least 20 species, including Greater Bird-of-Paradise, and we saw three Lesser Bird-of-Paradise roaming free in the visitor walkthrough jungle. How often does that happen at a zoo? A Chinese-themed area has a Koi pond in the middle and then a pair of rare species (Chinese Alligator, Chinese Giant Salamander) and then yet another area has Clouded Leopards on one side and Lyle’s Flying Foxes, Indian Flying Foxes and Pallas’s Squirrels all moving around in another walk-through zone with zero barriers. Whether one likes the idea of being dwarfed by ethnocentric buildings or not, if one strips away the human-related elements of the Asian zone then it is easy to see that just about every single exhibit is of an extremely high quality. I know that some zoo enthusiasts aren’t big fans of Pairi Daiza because they get too bothered with the buildings and structures. If one were to remove all the extra ‘stuff’ from the Asian zone, it would be a zoo area filled with fantastic exhibits. The pagodas and temples are the icing on the cake in making the area more exciting and different from a thousand other Asian zones at a thousand other zoos. We’ve all seen an African Savanna or Asian Forest part of a zoo on so many occasions that I found Pairi Daiza to be a breath of fresh air; it has vision and desire to reach for the stars. Its uniqueness should be applauded.
The Land of Origins: The zoo’s African zone has a dusty, large African Elephant exhibit (for 3 elephants), White Rhinos mixed with Warthogs in a standard-sized enclosure, and Common Hippos with underwater viewing and a substantial sandy land area that they have full access to off to one side. There is a spacious African Lion exhibit that can be seen from several vantage points, Spotted Hyenas and a crashed plane that looks great, Giraffes, a walk-through lemur exhibit and the infamous Gorilla ‘volcanoes’. The two volcanoes work much better in person than they do in photos, and while I do think that it is a bit of a waste of space, the Gorilla exhibits are actually good ones for the apes and the indoor quarters are filled with climbing opportunities and deep layers of mulch. Blijdorp’s indoor Gorilla accommodation, and that at many other zoos, is scandalous by comparison to what Pairi Daiza has done. Again, the exhibits are very good, and the volcanoes simply add to the appeal, although it would be cool if a species or two had access to the steep cliffsides of the structures.
The zoo was obviously not content to have one large Shoebill Stork aviary as there are two of them (in separate areas) and one of those aviaries contains some Openbill Storks…yet another zoological rarity that are a treat to see. Other species here are Cheetah, Mantled Guereza, Pygmy Hippo, Common Zebra, Cape Buffalo, Ankole Cattle, Brindled Wildebeest and Blesbok. The African zone is arguably somewhat conventional, but the exhibits are spacious, and the African Village is a nice central location to relax.
There is a Reptile House near the African zone that is set inside a massive, full-size ship called the Mersus Emergo. It’s quite something to behold and starts off with a few standard-sized terrariums in a couple of rooms and then progresses into larger exhibits and there are many ‘rescued’ creatures of all shapes and sizes. I did not compile a species list as I just wanted to chat with Tim and the idea of a species list at Pairi Daiza is too daunting. Another reason is that the labelling here is horrid, as for example in one room there are 6 exhibits with zero signs whatsoever. Just like the sprawling Aquarium, the Reptile House seems to go on forever and near the end there is a massive wall with approximately 26 invertebrate terrariums laid out almost like portholes on a boat. It’s a major building with the potential to be world-class, but at the very least the zoo needs to radically overhaul its signs and labels inside the ‘ship’. Here there is a small South American loop, in the form of a walk-through Squirrel Monkey exhibit that contains 8 of the monkeys, then a spider monkey island and a walk-through Black Howler Monkey exhibit. Listening to one of those animals crashing from tree to tree with no barriers is a little unnerving! The indoor quarters for the primates is actually inside the hull of the Reptile House boat.
The Kingdom of Ganesha: The orangutan complex here is probably the best I’ve ever seen. Yes, the orangs are in a marble temple that is eye-catching and loved by the public (check out the crowds in there!) but, once again, if an individual were to analyze all the space available to the red apes then one should be mightily impressed. There is thick mulch on the floor which many other zoos simply never do, many climbing opportunities via hundreds of feet of ropes, hammocks, little shelters, etc., and even some Small-clawed Otters for company. The two Sumatran Orangutan exhibits, not connected in any way, are far superior to almost any other zoo in working hard to get the orangs off the ground. Oh yeah, there is still an amazing marble temple! I’ve always liked Woodland Park Zoo’s orangutan exhibit, but it is not even in the same ballpark as the one at Pairi Daiza. Now, Woodland Park’s seems tiny outside, lacking brachiating opportunities with not many ropes or hammocks, cement floor within the tiny interior, etc. Pairi Daiza is leagues ahead in quality.
There are a couple of Asian Elephants on-show with a big sign about their lives, and then behind the ornate, ridiculously grandiose barn (that one is over-the-top) is a viewing area for another trio of Asian Elephant exhibits that are literally at the very back of the zoo. To recap, there is an enclosure for 3 African Elephants, plus at least 5 additional exhibits for 19 Asian Elephants to give Pairi Daiza a grand total of 22 elephants in at least 6 enclosures. There are also Sulawesi Crested Macaques, Common Wombats (!!), and Indian Crested Porcupines in this steep, hilly, back-breaking part of the zoo that stretches to approximately 10 acres/4 hectares.
Recap:
The Aquarium and Reptile House are a pair of large buildings that really do need a good scrub and upgrading done to the signs. If the zoo can continue to spend millions of Euros on mega-budget mammal complexes, then a comprehensive update of both the Aquarium and Reptile House could easily be done for a pittance. Those are the two major flaws of the zoo, which is a shame as those buildings, with renovations, could be spectacular as not every major zoo even has an Aquarium and a proper Reptile House. There are other flaws around the place, just like at every other zoo in the world, such as the Javan Leopard exhibit in The Kingdom of Ganesha (which is large but not really suited to a leopard), or having Common Wombats surrounded by Asian temples. However, for the most part the animal exhibits are ones that most other zoos can only dream about, and it must cost an absolute fortune to maintain such a diverse and staggering collection of animals. Probably 80% of all the animal exhibits have been built since 2000, giving the zoo a ‘new’ feel and a modern touch to the enclosure designs.
After all was said and done, and we’d truly ‘broken the back’ of the mighty zoological beast that is Pairi Daiza, Tim and I reflected on the experience. With the sheer volume of species in what are almost universally excellent exhibits, I have Pairi Daiza at #3 and surpassed only by San Diego and Omaha. If you’ve been following along on ZooChat while I’ve reviewed hundreds of zoos since 2007, then you’ll know what I generally look for in a zoo. Tim looks down at my 500-zoo total and sits there with his 800-zoo mark and grins. He has been amazingly consistent over the years by never once deviating from his Top 5 favourite zoo list of Berlin, San Diego, Omaha, Bronx and Berlin Tierpark. Those are the 5 that stand above the rest in Tim’s mind. He acknowledges that the work down by the Wildlife Conservation Society is enough to put Bronx in the Top 5, regardless of the fact that the zoo hasn’t added a major new exhibit in more than a decade. “It’s still a world-class zoo”, he tells me over some roast chicken and beer at lunch. After thinking about it all day, and now that Tim has been to this particular Belgian zoo on 4 occasions, he told me that Pairi Daiza would crack his Top 8 zoos of all-time. He wouldn’t be drawn into specifics as to what those other zoos would be outside of his well-established Top 5, but he loves Pairi Daiza as much as I do and we each have different things that we like about zoos. Any zoo nerd that is unsure about whether to make the effort to head into the Belgian countryside can see that Tim, zoo nerd author from England with 800 zoos under his belt, and myself, a zoo nerd author from Canada with 500 zoos under my belt, both think that Pairi Daiza is outstanding. It’s a full-day out, with a dizzying array of animal life and a staggering quality to the whole production. Are we both fools for loving it? I think not.
It was quite the trek to visit Antwerp Zoo, Planckendael Zoo and Pairi Daiza on back-to-back-to-back days, especially with the temperature pushing close to 40 degrees Celsius, and who can forget about Harry Malter Familiepark and Pakawi Park? I've got a couple more Belgian zoos up next, before heading back into the Netherlands.