First another picture of the map:
We step from the boat onto the docks on the other side of the river. To our left, the mountain towers over us. On the other side of the docks there’s a small building built against an odd separated pool in the river. More about this later though, as we walk over the route that leads us away from the river. The main path goes further right, towards the path of part 4, but we take a hidden adventure path that heads between the mountain wall and a large boulder that broke off from the main mountain.
(The O Rio Dourado mountain staircase would look quite a bit rougher than this one)
The adventure path staircase heads up quite steeply. Past the mountain wall we’re completely surrounded by extremely dense foliage, both ground level and tall trees. Some squeaks and rustling of the foliage catch our attention as we look up to see a small family of Silvery marmosets, the third free-roaming monkey species we’ve seen in the O Rio Dourado greenhouse. One by one, they jump between some large hanging roots to get over the gap in the foliage formed by the path. We can see five of them in total.
Continuing up, the path splits in two. The path to our right heads back down the mountain and to the path of part 4, but of course we first go straight ahead and higher up the mountain. The path meanders a bit, to make the steep hill a little more manageable. One the side of a tree, if we’re a bit quiet as to not spook it, we can see a Tree runner, an interesting lizard species that’s adapted to sticking to the sides of tree trunks. The head looks quite similar to that of an agama, but it’s actually more closely related to Lava lizards and such.
As we get closer to the top of the (reachable) mountain, the path start to flatten out a bit. The foliage is even denser up here, creating a strange, seemingly infinite space as we can’t quite see the edge of the mountain, apart from the end of the path straight ahead. Suddenly we all cover our ears as a near-deafening bird call plays right next to us.
FEEET-FEEE, FEE-WEEW
Sitting nonchalantly on a branch in the foliage next to us is a medium-sized, unassuming, grey bird. Staring at us as if we’re the crazy ones for overreacting. It moves its head backward ever-so-slightly as it prepares to call again…
Feee…
Instinctively we cover our ears again and prepare for the impact.
Feee…
Counting down like a ticking timebomb it stares at us again, almost taunting us.
FEEET-FEEE, FEE-WEEW
This bird lives up to its name as the Screaming piha. It definitely has the most iconic bird call of the whole South American region, possibly even the whole zoo. We quickly walk to the end of the path, even if it’s just to put some distance between us and the fire alarm mimic over here. At the end of the adventure path, the mulch path suddenly transitions back into concrete. On the near-top of the mountain there’s a lookout point that gives us an awesome overview of the village. We can see the tops of the houses, the little boats, the islands in the river that we haven’t even gotten to yet, and the top of the aviary that the Bush dogs are located in. We can even see the three vultures, still on their rock, which is located right next to the viewing platform.
After taking in the view for a bit, and hearing the Screaming piha still calling just a little too loud for comfort, we turn around and head back into the jungle. Despite being near the top of the mountain, there’s still some rocks towering a few meters over us. As we slowly head back down we come across a few more Red-rumped caciques, collecting more nesting material for their hanging basket nests. We can actually see one with a grasshopper in its beak, which are occasionally released into the greenhouse from a separate enclosure we’ll come across later

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The Tree runner seems to have found a different lounging place as the spot where we saw it earlier is now empty. We continue further and further down the mountain and this time we take the other route. The steep adventure staircase heads down towards the river, although the hill we’re on still means we’re not exactly close to it. As the path slowly smoothes out from a steep staircase to a gentle slope, we walk parallel with a short rock cliff. On the leaves of a Swiss cheese plant hanging off the side of the cliff, we can see an adorable little Clown tree frog. Depending on your personal opinion, this species could be seen as having beautiful patterns… or maybe you just think it looks like bird poop, which might be what its camouflage is supposed to represent.
Also along this lower section of the mountain path we can once again see the large flock of Ruddy quail-doves, which seems to have migrated from the Kapok grove to the mountain in their foraging. Most of them turn back to the path of Part 4 to let us pass, although a few get separated for a bit and run out ahead of us before turning the corner around another one of the boulders.
Eventually we reach the end of the adventure path. Here, we are greeted with the barren branches of the large, fallen tree that creates the border of the Cane toad enclosure. On one of those branches we can see a beautiful, large bird with pale green feathers, a blue forehead and an especially interesting tail. This is the Blue-crowned motmot, also known as the Amazonian motmot. Three brothers free-roam the greenhouse, Wetlands Park Europe also holds a breeding pair behind the scenes.
Next to the branches of the fake, fallen tree there’s a second viewing point to the large Cane toad enclosure, this time having a simple, low glass barrier to separate the toads from the path… Hmm, that pun works better in Dutch… From here we can actually see the toads a little better, as quite a few of them have squished themselves partially under the large log.
Between the toad habitat and the building along the river we can once again get a glimpse of the islands in the middle of the titular Rio Dourado, and once again I tell you; more on that later

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Lined up on top of the river building is a group of six decently large birds, Blue-throated piping guans seem to really like the roofs of the buildings in O Rio Dourado as places to perch on. Walking into the building we can see multiple large education signs and a lowered area with viewing into the three pools outside. This building is the Amazon fish nursery! The signage is about the issue of a lot of fish from the Amazon river being taken out of the wild to be transported to the western world for the aquarium trade. Something that both O Rio Dourado and me in real life are guilty of as Hatchetfish owners, a fish species that does not breed in captivity.
Many fish species, including many Plecos, Tetra’s and Hatchetfish, don’t breed in captivity and are therefore collected from the wild. Although many fish are collected ethically and sustainably, being collected after the flooded forest recedes and many fish are forced into small ponds and essentially await death there. However, Wetlands Park Europe still wants to help zoos move away from all forms of wild-collected animals. By building fish nurseries in Amazonian towns, and working together with local ecologists in the Amazon and local universities in the Netherlands, WPE hopes to research the breeding habits of Amazonian fish and see how we could replicate it in captivity.
These fish breederies in the Amazon are created by creating separated sections in the Amazon river, especially smaller creeks, where fish species are held in single-species group and allowed to breed without fear of predation. This concept is basically completely based on this pool I saw in Suriname:
By first researching the fish breeding habits in the Amazon, WPE hopes to recreate these breeding habitats in captivity, possibly in a greenhouse environment, so other zoos can get captive-bred Amazonian fish. Since this greenhouse breeding would probably be too expensive for home aquarists, the sustainable fish collecting will still continue to boost the South American economy.
In case you’re wondering why this part of O Rio Dourado is strangely two-sided, that’s because I only found out that collecting wild Amazon fish is surprisingly sustainable mid-write, way after I finished working out the “Amazon fish nursery” concept

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After the Amazon fish nursery we can take one more look at the outside fish pools before stepping back onto the little boats and pulling ourselves back to the titular fishing town. To our left, on the other side of the docks than the boathouse, there’s another small building. On the roof we can see a beautiful, dark red Tanager species with a recogniseable silver beak. Hence the name, Silver-beaked tanager!
It flies off quite quickly after we step out of the little boat and onto the docks. You’ll notice that the town has two little buildings labelled “E”, this is because both buildings hold the same animal. We walk toward the left-most of the two. Inside, we can see some sort of stock room. Fruits, fish, a small fridge filled to the brim with soda (they really love their soda in the tropics), all of it fake, though. This is actually a room-sized enclosure for Brown rats. A strange addition to a South American region, you might think, but education further along our route explains it.
Wetlands Park Europe isn’t the only zoo to display rats in a domestic setting:
(This example is in a European style, the O Rio Dourado one will of course be South America themed)
There is some general information about invasive species such as the Brown rat, the African giant land snail, the Asian house gecko and, most notoriously, the Common hippopotamus finding their way to South America. There’s also some signage on South American species doing the opposite, like Pacus and Green iguanas becoming big nuisances in places like Florida and South-East Asia.
The second building E is a small washhouse, for washing clothes, getting a drink, and any other things you may need water for. Of course, this exhibit too is behind a plexiglass wall to keep the rats in. The two houses are connected through underground tunnels. The outside of this little washhouse also has a bottle refilling station in case you get thirsty, it is hot and humid in here, after all.
We come out on the other side of the washhouse into a little secluded area between buildings E-right and D. On the edge of a small planted area between E-left and D we can see a tiny little black frog, the Marañón poison frog. A beautiful species with very dark skin and little white spots all over it, when we lean in to take a closer look it quickly jumps into the bushes and we lose sight of it.
It's a bit of a squeeze to get between buildings E, but we manage to all get through. From here we can walk around and toward the entrance to building D (opposite C). In here there’s a lot of education on Bush dogs. How they’ve only been discovered
relatively recently and not much is known about them due to how rare they are, and how they’re threatened by feral dogs in South America spreading canine-specific diseases. This little house opens to a viewing deck, which gives us a second viewing point into the large Bush dog indoor enclosure.
Close to the viewing deck there’s a small creek, this actually runs throughout the whole Bush dog indoor enclosure. All the way in the back of the exhibit, we can just about see a few of the Bush dogs heading outside. We’ll see these little guys again… Eventually…
As we walk from the porch to the second mini-building of building D, there are once again educational signs. Although this time not about Bush dogs. The signage here is about some Surinamese folklore, the tales of Anansi. Anansi, also being the Surinamese word for spider, is a trickster deity and a sort of “Antagonistic protagonist” (I wouldn’t call him a villain per se, but he’s not exactly the good guy in all his stories). Similar to the Fox in French (and general European) folklore, Anansi lies, cheats and tricks the people and animals around him to get his way. He’s incredibly lazy and will do pretty much anything to get out of doing any work. To put it elegantly, he’s a real
Halichoeres bivittatus.
What’s most interesting though, is that this lazy piece of work transformed into an icon of anticolonialism. The tales of Anansi originated in West-Africa where, as we all know, a lot of European countries (the Netherlands being a pretty big one in there) did a whole bunch of truly horrifying stuff. When enslaved people were brought to South American countries like Suriname, the stories of Anansi, who was famed for overcoming opponents much mightier than him through cunning, became a folk hero and an inspiration for standing up against the oppressor. The enslaved people in Suriname who managed to escape into the rainforest, formed new tribes that our guide elegantly called “the Afrindians”. They brought with them the stories of Anansi, which are now very popular in Suriname and even made their way over to the Netherlands.
What’s most interesting about this is that Anansi is a spider, a creature usually feared and who rarely gets to play the hero in modern storytelling (not counting Spider-man). This education on the Surinamese folk hero is paired with, of course, a tarantula enclosure. Inside a large terrarium there’s a miniature landscape with a small gazebo-like hut with a miniature hammock made to look like a spider web. A cute imagining of Anansi’s house, of course. The tarantula species chosen for this habitat is, in my opinion, the most beautiful of the tarantulas; the Venezuelan sun tiger tarantula!
As we walk towards the final building of the town (building F), we come across a nice section of forest. There is a small adventure path going through it, but this is closed off by a simple rope. This actually isn’t an adventure path at all, but instead a path where the staff can more easily access O Rio Dourado from the park’s main path. Although there is no staff using it right now, we can see a small flock of Crested bobwhites, adorable little quails native to Northernmost South America. Also in these bushes, we can see the Red-crested cardinal again! This time we can see a pair of them, the female clearly having a less red head than the male.
We continue on to building F. Above the entrance we can see a large, round logo. Two snakes surrounded by foliage slither toward the letters SPS in the middle. This is the logo for Snake Patrol Suriname, who I mentioned earlier. This building represents the Snake Patrol Suriname headquarters, from where they do educative talks and hold the snakes temporarily for relocation. Note: I haven’t actually been to their headquarters, in fact I don’t even know if they have a real “home base”. Wetlands Park will sponsor SPS with building a headquarters/educational centre if they don’t have one, but also high-quality holding facilities for any snakes they may be relocating, educational pamphlet, books and TV spots, and anything else they need to educate Surinamese people about snakes and other wildlife.
Inside the building there are four terrariums. Two terrariums on our left have a sign on the wall above them, which says “little to no danger”. These terrariums have an interior full of branches and unlike the rest of O Rio Dourado, aren’t specifically designed to look extremely natural. These terrariums hold a single snake each, a Garden tree boa and an Emerald tree boa.
Opposite these terrariums are three terrariums, two of them a lot larger than the other. Above the larger terrariums, a sign says “moderate danger”, above the other it says “high danger”. One of the larger terrariums holds a sizeable Boa constrictor. Although not venomous, they can grow to 4 meters long and are strong enough to overpower a grown man. This enclosure is similarly simple in design.
The second large terrarium is decorated more like a wetland than a forest, with a larger aquatic area and less arboreal space. This terrarium is home to a large False water cobra, a species that is venomous, but is rear-fanged. Due to this, the False water cobra would have to chew on you for quite a bit to properly get its venom in you. The False water cobra’s venom causes swelling and pain, but it hasn’t killed anyone. Just like cobras, this species can turn its neck into a hood, creating the illusion that it is larger than it really is.
The smaller terrarium, labelled high danger, holds O Rio Dourado’s most venomous snake, the Uracoan rattlesnake. This one is decorated a little more elaborately, with some tall grass, loose branches and leaf litter to highlight the species’ camouflage abilities.
After these terrariums the room opens up a bit, this part of the room is actually a little classroom. On busier days there are educational talks here with a few ambassador animals, including the two tree boas held in this building’s terrariums. The educator, supposed to be an SPS volunteer, can also bring out animals like turtles, frogs, tarantulas, Hercules beetles and cockroaches. The educational talk includes information on how to recognise the difference between dangerous snakes like Coral snakes, Bushmasters and Lanceheads, and non-dangerous snakes like Tree boas, Chicken snakes and Coachwhips. There’s also some education on how Suriname’s excessive snake-killing has caused a boom in the rodent population. Hence the rat infestation in the village

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All the information in the educator’s talk can also be read on posters on the wall, which function as scrolls that can be unrolled during non-educator days, and rolled up when the educator is present.
The SPS building actually has two stories, although the second one can’t be accessed by visitors (there is an exterior staircase for staff). The second story of this building functions as an “indoor” enclosure for a group of monkeys, which we will meet as soon as we step outside the building.
Stepping out of the SPS building and onto a boardwalk over the river, we get a good view of the three groups of islands sitting in this broad section of the river of gold. Suriname is a very rocky country, and large granite boulders line the rivers. I’ve now been up and down the Suriname river quite a few times, and every time we come across hundreds of miniature islands formed by boulders sticking up out of the water. Sometimes, dirt, sand and seeds get caught between the rocks and they grow to form tiny, forested islands. In some cases, full trees seemingly grow only in the water between the rocks. The islands in O Rio Dourado are based on such islands.
My own photos (I know they’re oversaturated, but otherwise it’s difficult to tell the trees on the island apart from the trees in the rainforest):
Here’s a professional photo taken during the dry season, showcasing just how many rocks there are in the river, as well as showing one of the larger islands:
Along with multiple small, live trees on the islands, there are also a few large, fallen trees that connect the islands so the inhabitants can more easily reach them. What are the inhabitants, you ask? A trio of Guianan bearded sakis, a dark brown monkey species known for its thick fur and of course, the thing its named after, a thick beard. We can actually see all three of them climbing on the large fallen tree in the middle of the three island groups. These aren’t the only animals on the island though, as we can also see quite a few Black-bellied whistling ducks on a few of the large rocks on the edge of the island group. This is the most numerous of the four duck species free-roaming the greenhouse, as there’s over 20 Black-bellied whistling ducks here. Although not all of them currently on the island, of course.
A little further towards the end of the island’s “tail”, we can see another free-roamer, our third reptile free-roamer! A few Yellow-spotted Amazon river turtles lay lazily on the rocks. These last rocks of the island formation are even closer to the river, and small waves sometimes submerge them just for a second. Just like the Twist-neck turtles that we saw earlier, these turtles do have their favourite spot here, preferring the open water of the deeper river.
With that, I take a deep, DEEP sigh of relief as this was definitely the longest part of O Rio Dourado (at least, I think…
I hope). I decided to include some extra education in this one, so I hope you enjoyed that, as well as the whole of part 5 of course. I may have been a little early with releasing the Part 6 teaser, I was expecting part 5 to come out a little earlier than this, but oh well. I’ll probably have part 6 out next week and otherwise, oh well, it’ll be a little longer.
Species of area 5:
(The first O Rio Dourado part that does not have a single mixed species enclosure!)