Tiergarten Schönbrunn
It just feels so right to start my journey across the European zoo landscape at the world’s oldest existing zoo. And what a start it was. Got up bright and early after finally securing a decent night's rest and was promptly on the subway – this public transport stuff isn't so bad after all! The Shounbroun Palace grounds waited for me to pass a long awaited milestone in my zoo visiting career. I only briefly took in the brilliance of the palace and the lovely gardens before heading straight for the main event (rest assured I will be back for that other stuff down the line).
So let’s cut right to the chase – the zoo is amazing. Walking through Tiergarten Schönbrunn felt like exploring a living breathing piece of 18th century artwork. History is quite literally around every corner with buildings that have been around for centuries still standing today. But the zoo isn’t dated or lifeless as a result, in fact it’s teaming with life around every corner and visually stunning. It’s a museum of zoo history and an exemplary model of how to balance legacy features with modern animal husbandry.
And I have never seen a better preserved legacy feature than the Rotunda and the Imperial Breakfast Pavillion – and I doubt that I ever will. The surrounding enclosures for hoofstock are largely just good without being great, but provide such a great window into the past that they’re easy to love. Simple, but purposeful. Very minimal barriers as well, which allows you to get extraordinarily close to the hippos in particular, almost to an unsettling degree. The one yard that does feel like a step above the rest is the panda enclosure, which is lushly planted and filled with climbing structures. It was great to get reacquainted with the black and white blob bears after more than seven years and they are treated to the best enclosure in the rotunda, filled with dense plantings and climbing structures. When I think of pandas I think of long lines and crowds jonesing to get a photo, but here they’re viewed just like any other zoo animal. I like that.
Surrounding buildings have been adapted in different ways over the years, all of which are uniquely successful in their own right. The koala house and rat house were originally the rhino and hippo houses respectively. How pachyderms could even fit in these buildings is beyond me, but they do well by their smaller inhabitants – seeing my first cloud rats was a real treat. The giraffe house is still used for giraffes, but received a modern extension that's remarkable from an architectural standpoint. You can even still view big cats through iron bars, with the original row of cages preserved as modern exhibits were constructed behind them -- although in truth the space for the lions is still rather limited if varied. Of course I’d be remiss to not mention the old cage which has been converted into a viewing area for cheetahs which is genius. My favorite of the historic houses would have to be the monkey house, which mostly features smaller species these days and is all the better for it. The king colobus/meerkat enclosure is such a brilliant reuse of the old orang space and I found myself oddly excited about the greater guinea pigs living with the sakis and callimicos.
Speaking of primates, what's the history behind the Orangerie? This building appears much older than the gorgeous outdoor enclosure would suggest and clearly seems to have been adapted in some capacity. Feels like an event center of sorts that just so happens to have an excellent orangutan exhibit attached. There's even a library on the second floor.
The excellence continues with the bird house, yet another brilliant modernization. There are some exhibits that you just need to see in person to really
get and for me that was this bird house. I’ve heard it highly praised over the years but never thought it looked like anything special from photos. Now I see the light and absolutely adore the snugly fit walkthrough rooms, each with some rather choice species. The sort of intermission room between the two with the sloths and frogs, as random as it may be, was quirky in a good way. Those two large flight cages near the bird house are also grand pieces of architecture, even if the walkthrough one does feel like wasted potential with only waldrapp ibises inside.
Just the historic portion of the zoo would make for an immensely rewarding experience in itself. However, Vienna’s excellence in exhibitry extends well beyond modernizing historic buildings. Near the east side of the zoo are several superb mixed-species enclosures that take advantage of the existing hillside. The newly opened takin/tahr exhibit is a personal favorite and coming from a land starved of caprids and macaques, the barbary sheep/macaque mix was awesomeness incarnate. I’m still not exactly sure what happened, but I think somehow a group of monkeys managed to get somewhere they were supposed to be. I heard some commotion which provoked the sheep and next thing you know keepers promptly blocked off the area to rectify the situation. Meanwhile the neighboring Andean bear watched the chaos unfold from the comfort of his tree while a group of coati scurried around below.
Small things are given the time to shine as well. The best examples are those lovely little outdoor herp “boxes” that are scattered across the grounds. Why isn't every zoo doing this? They take up minimal space and are significantly more engaging than your average reptile house. Then again, the new Conservation House with confiscated herps is filled with cool inhabitants -- no less than eight chameleon species all adjacent to one another. Grass mice have a similar outdoor terrarium located in a rather hidden offshoot from the main path by the South America house. I also loved the trio of freshwater fish tanks on the path that zigzags to the top of the zoo, which I believe are outdoors. These sort of hidden exhibits add so much depth both to the collection and experience as a whole. They're like fun surprises that are rewarding to find, other examples being those unshowy yards for did-diks and crested screamers. It may seem minor but stuff like rounding the corner of a cafe to find an aviary with a noisy flock of burrowing parakeets goes a long way.
Interestingly, while the absolute oldest enclosures around the grounds have held up wonderfully thanks to calculated modernization efforts, it’s the things that was newly constructed around the 20th century that feels the most dated. I made it just in time to see the Aquarium-Terrarium before it bites the dust in the coming months and while it was perfectly good, the replacement is definitely welcome. Not many enclosures here held my attention for long, with the exception of a terrific display with Pallas’ long-tailed bats. There may have been other species in there as well, but my gaze was solely focused on the swarm of bats flying in all directions. So cool!
The elephant house is also well past its prime and due to be replaced. Saying it’s just average is being generous at this point, with a dusty outdoor yard and highly unattractive indoor quarters all there is to show. However, an adorable two week old calf romping around like a riled up puppy compensated for the exhibit's shortcomings.
The only other significant area I hesitate to praise is the polar bear complex. The design is super cool from a guest perspective and the pair of enclosures certainly aren’t bad. However, like many polar bear exhibits in urban zoos they just aren't large or open enough. I’ve said this plenty of times before, but I believe having an open space with minimal visual barriers is equally as important as exhibit size for polar bears and here you have imposing rock walls that make the enclosures feel more, well, enclosed. You’re also looking down on the bears from most angles which isn’t ideal. Still not bad for any means, just not best suited for this specific species in my opinion. The adjacent Polarium for the Antarctic penguins screams 70s, but it still serves its purpose well enough.
I could go on to discuss the grassy multi-tiered penguin exhibit, or the stunning Tirolerhof farm section at the top of the property, or the rhino paddocks shared with various Asian ungulates, but I’ve summed things up well enough. Maybe it’s just the novelty of this being my first exposure to a European zoo, but right now I have no problem saying Schönbrunn is probably my second favorite zoo I’ve ever visited – although once the newness wears off it may get bumped down to third or fourth. There’s something special about the whole zoological park vibe that’s getting harder and harder to find these days. I love a good thematic exhibit complex as much as the next guy, but the charm of seeing various animals from across the world all near one another will never fade. Here in Vienna you can stand at a slightly elevated point near the middle of the grounds and see penguins, sea lions, elephants, and the monkey house all from the same vantage point. Originally my plan was to end each zoo report by comparing it to an American zoo that it most reminded me of, but I fear that isn't possible here. The Tiergarten is completely unlike anything in the U.S. and probably a majority of Europe as well. Where else can you play the role of emperor and sip tea while admiring a 270+ year menagerie? How lucky am I to call this my local zoo for the next several months.