My "epic" South Texas Trip - Part 6 - Gladys Porter Zoo
You don't drive over 20 hours in the span of two days for nothing. The Gladys Porter Zoo in Brownsville has always held a fascination for me. Growing up in the great state we had a Texas travel guide. It was one of those free guides that the state tourist board hands out. My family usually only traveled in-state so we were always flipping through the book. Somehow, my first recollection of the GPZ comes from this book. The blub was brief, only a few paragraphs, but what it did say was that this zoo was somehow special. It was said to be full of rare and exotic animals that couldn't be found anywhere else. It was this lure that drove me (quite literally) to the southernmost tip of Texas. For those of you who don't realize how big Texas is, I could just as easily driven to see the Henry Doorly Zoo in Omaha in the same amount of time. Texas is about 3 times bigger than the UK, so my goal of seeing every zoo in the state is a large one.
At first glance a zoo that is only 26 acres (or 31, I have seen two different accounts of its size) would be considered fairly small, but if I had to design a zoo with this limited space I would heavily look to GPZ to see how best to do it. There are two camps of what to call a great zoo. One is how naturalistic the habitats are. By using this approach, the exhibit will always be bigger and the number of species will be lower. The second camp is a great collection of animals. GPZ falls heavily into this later category. That isn't to say that the exhibits are bad, not at all. True, there are now award winning exhibits here, but all of the exhibits with the exception of one or two are quite nice to look at and meet the animals needs perfectly.
At one time, the GPZ was arranged according to strict zoo-geographic guidelines. This is no longer the case, but the vague areas are still there and mostly intact. To describe a complete walk-through would be tedious and hard to do. The zoo meanders through resacas. These resacas are small lagoons that have been left behind by the ever-changing flow of the Rio Grande. They form wonderful natural barriers for some of the exhibits. In order to do justice to the GPZ I will cover each of the 5 areas.
Entry area.
This is the least geographical area of the entire zoo. At times it almost feels like the remnants of the other areas are thrown in here. But what remnants they are. For starters there are 3 bear grottos. One holds spectacled bears and the other two have sun bears. Seemingly somewhat small, these have been gussied up with lots of climbing opportunities and shade, and really seem to me to be nicer than the average grotto. Think more vertically and less horizontally. Next to the bears is a single sea lion. It is an old and very lethargic male. Exhibit has a little amphitheater for the guy, but I doubt he preforms much anymore.
The rest of this area has the real jewels of the GPZ. I am a hoofstock lover. I make no bones about it. In the entry area I got a chance to see 4 new species of hoofstock. Joy filled my bosom. The actual exhibits are nothing to write home about. They are simple grotto-like yards with three rock walls surrounding them. Here's what I would write home about. Red Brockets. One of the very first animals you see is the rarely shown Red Brocket (I will have to check ISIS to find the exact species of Mazama). They had two yards for these guys, although strangely one was shared with blue cranes. Bornean Bearded Pigs. An animal that has all but disappeared from US collections. Shame too, what great animals. Yellow-Backed Duiker. Ok, not that uncommon, in fact I know a lot of zoos that have them (I can think of at least 5 others nearby with them). Kewél. Never heard of a Kewél? Sure you have, I just like being pretentious and call the animal formerly known as the harnessed bushbuck by its new name. (New name being needed because it turns out that there are two highly distinct species of bushbuck in Africa.) This is the only group of Kewél on display outside of Africa. It's kind of a big deal. It used to be one of the more commonly displayed antelopes, but those times are past us now. GPZ maintains 2 groups of Kewél, 1.2 each. There may be more that I did not see. Upon talking to a hoofstock keeper, he informed me that one group had just come in, which tells me that there are a lot more out there in private hands. I want to see more zoos get them, but that is just me. Jentink's Duiker. Talk about a rarity. The only Jentink's Duiker in captivity anywhere. His name is “Gordo” (aka the Fat Boy). He is big, slightly bigger than the common Yellow-Backed Duiker. He has a little yard all to himself. Wonderful animal, and I'm glad to have gotten to see him before I can never do so again.
Also in the front entry are the tiger and gorilla exhibits. Tiger exhibit is one of the poorer exhibits at the zoo. When I visited I saw several generic and white tigers out together, but I understand the zoo also keeps Sumatrans as well. Viewing was all through clouded glass which made for a not-so-great experience. Gorillas on the other hand have been commented on lots before on here. It is a smaller exhibit than most other zoos provide, but that is countered by having a large functioning family unit. I think the zoo has about 12 gorillas of all ages. Weird thing here is all the gorillas are brown and not black. No surprise for me actually. There is no canopy or shade from the sun, so like my own hair, their hair is sun bleached. My sister is so totally jealous. As other people have pointed out these gorillas love the water. I didn't see too much of them in or around the water, but wish I had.
South America
Next area is South America. We open with Komodo Dragons. The problem with dealing with a living collection is that animals die and can't always be replaced with their kind. That is the case here. Their jaguars are no longer there and the space has been devoted to Komodos. I will let it slide, but just the once, ok. Next are some exhibit for spider monkeys. Usually I see Black-Handed Spider Monkeys, but here were two islands for Mexican and Black Spider Monkeys. A nice touch to the SA section was white-tailed deer. WTD, boring right? In most contexts I would agree, but seeing them in a South American area is somewhat refreshing. After all they can be found there. I wonder why more people don't include them in their SA exhibit? There was a big bald eagle aviary here too. Probably wasn't intended for bald eagle originally. Also a nice, and newer, walk-through aviary for colorful birds like scarlet ibis and roseate spoonbill. Here too were their Galapagos tortoises. I hear they keep actual pure Galap. subspecies, but none of the information presented at the zoo attested to that fact. Lots of waterfowl and flamingos were in this section as well. And nearby were Cuban Crocodiles.
Austro-Asia
This area often gets neglected by a lot of zoos. Shame really. Most of the animals here are from below the Wallace line. More new species were abounding here. Gray Kangaroos, Agile Wallabies, and Brush-Tailed Bettongs. It was refreshing to not see Red Kangaroos again. Cassowaries and a few parrots are here as well as two species of crocs (white saltwater crocs, and Philippine crocs). This is the smallest section of the zoo. A major feature here is the Australian night house. Again, not all of the animals here are Australian (like ball pythons and Virginia opossums). For a night house, it was pretty bland. When I posted the photos of the tree kangaroo exhibit on here a couple of months ago there was an outcry because people thought it was too small. I begged to differ as I'm sure it is more than adequate for the species.
Asia
The GPZ has to potential to be one of the noisiest zoos in the world. There are 3 gibbon islands here. On exhibit the day I visited were Pileated and Muller's Gibbons as well as Siamang. ISIS also says they have Lar and White-Cheeked. If correct, and I suspect it is, that gives GPZ a whopping total of 5 species of gibbon. Add to that gorillas, orangs, and chimps, and we get 8 species of ape in total. I'm impressed. I love it when a zoo doesn't skimp on hoofstock. Most zoos do that when it comes to Asia, but not GPZ. I saw my first Gaur. Big beasties. Impressive. Also, unfortunately off exhibit the day I visited, is a large heard of Arabian oryx. Recently added to the area were addax, but I think that until recently this was some type of Asian deer in this area. The conservation needs won out I think.
Also in Asia are the orang-utans. Interesting story here. I only saw 1 female orang. She was missing an arm. From what I've heard she is meaner than snot. She was sent to another zoos for breeding and beat up their male, so she had to come back to GPZ. My story with this orang, may be typical of others who visit her, or it may not be. I was at a viewing window watching her and she came up to me. She obviously knew something that I didn't know. She pressed her lips right up to a small drain underneath the window and blew. The resulting sound could have easily passed for the sound of a beginner tuba player. I was impressed. Maybe there is a future in orang orchestras.
Africa
The African section is by far the largest. All of your major stars are here. White Rhinos, Lions, Wild Dogs, Giraffes, Sable Antelope, Common Zebra, Bontebok, Beisa Oryx, Pygmy Hippo. The only guys missing were elephants. In fact elephants are the only major animal missing from this zoo. That is totally understandable too. By current standards, this zoo would need to devote 1/6 to 1/7 of its total space to just a single species. They used to have elephants though. From the photos I've seen they had a very impressive bull. Now their exhibit holds dromedaries. Personally I would rather see something of conservation value here. Black Rhinos anyone? For me, the two most impressive exhibits in the African section were those for the Sable Antelope and the Bontebok. Simple reason, these exhibits were landscaped beautifully. This may be an accident of the fact that the native vegetation is so close in appearance to that of Africa, or it may be intentional. I really felt as if I were looking into an African Miombo when I saw the sable, and the region around the Cape when I saw the bontebok. The pygmy hippo pool was quite enjoyable. Honestly, you don't really need underwater viewing for them to make a great display animal.
Herpitarium and Aquatics
Last area of the zoo is a single building for herps and sea life. The aquatics wing is quite small and has only a few tanks. There is supposed to be an expansion of this area and it has consumed half of the bongo yard. I have never seen another building like the herpitarium though. I think it was intentionally designed to be creepy. The most imposing feature is the central alligator pool. It is sunk from the rest of the viewing. Soaring overhead is a large model Pteranodon.
Why go to GPZ?
Collection, collection, collection. Here are two example lists
Crocodilians
Saltwater Crocs
Cuban Croc
Philippine Croc
American Alligator
Dwarf Caiman
Hoofstock (long list)
Red Brocket
Bornean Bearded Pig
Kewél
Yellow-Backed Duiker
Jentink's Duiker
Reticulated Giraffe
Addra Gazelle
East African Bongo
Common Zebra
Beisa Oryx
Bontebok
Sable Antelope
Greater Kudu
Arabian Oryx
Addax
Gaur
White-Tailed Deer
and something that I probably left out.
Gladys Porter Zoo, I am duly impressed. I will be returning one day, eager for more.