Not that much actually when you go to the right place. Porto Joffre could be called the capital of jaguar. At the end of the Transpantaneira, this road that should have crossed and potentially ruined the ecosystem. Gladly, it was never constructed in Mato Grosso do Sul and therefore the road is a dead-end, providing good infrastrcuture to reach the center of the Pantanal.
From there, boat rides are organized by the few and expensive hotels. In one day, you would be unlucky not to see any jaguar when you go during the dry season. What may vary is the quality of encounters and I estimate I have been quite lucky on this point!
They are very numerous and not afraid of people on boats. The first morning, we saw our first cat only after 20 minutes and when we left, there was 13 boats following the cat.
@Therabu I know they are numerous out there in the Pantanal, but in the first day....wow! you are so lucky ! I've only ever seen their tracks in the forest but next year that will change fingers crossed. Anyway, awesome photos my friend !