Sydney trip 23-25 November

Chlidonias

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So I have finally got round to writing up a trip report of my Sydney weekend on the 23-25 November. The reason I went over there of course was because one of Taronga's long-beaked echidnas has been put on display for the first time in about ten years. They are endemic to New Guinea and I am unlikely to be getting there any time soon; the only ones outside New Guinea are the one in Moscow, which I'm probably even more unlikely to get to than New Guinea, and the two at Taronga. I didn't really have a choice did I? As well as the zoo I was also visiting the Sydney Aquarium, the Wildlife World and the Manly Oceanworld.

I was going to do a touch of birding in my spare time but there were no birds in evidence at the airport, and also none from the train on the way into the city. In fact it wasn't until I was at the ferry terminal waiting for the Manly Ferry that I saw my first feathery beasts, namely silver gulls (which I'd already seen this year in New Caledonia) and feral pigeons (which I'd also seen this year; funny that). Walking from the disembarkment point up the road to the Manly Guesthouse where I was staying, I saw rainbow lorikeets (likewise also seen in New Caledonia), an Australian magpie (seen earlier in New Zealand) and finally a new year bird, noisy miners (a type of honeyeater). I was picked up by Hix for the drive to Taronga, seeing sulphur-crested cockatoos along the way (sigh, also already seen this year, in New Zealand). There was no active birding at the zoo of course but I did incidentally spot a few birds (dusky moorhen, Australian wood duck, common kookaburra, white-browed scrubwren and magpie-lark), as well as a baby water dragon in the enclosure for the De Brazza's guenons. On the drive back to the Guesthouse a group of pied currawongs flew past to add to the day's short list.

There's heaps about Taronga Zoo on the forum already so rather than a review I'll just go over the best bits. Hix was showing me round the zoo which was mighty handy as it meant I could head straight for the interesting animals (none of those boring elephants and giraffes for me). I think for me the zoo should have been done over two days instead of the part-day I had, because I could easily have spent all of one day just at the aviaries, and most of the next in the nocturnal and reptile houses. First stop was the koala house. Now I know that koalas are actually one of the most boring animals around but the Taronga koala house is one of the zoo's iconic structures, actually the first thing that comes into my head when I think of Taronga, so I had to give it a look-see. Koalas don't move much but zoos are really about people so seeing a few bare branches over a bed of sand or concrete in the way that most zoos display koalas is a bit of a poor show; Taronga on the other hand has a very attractive half-domed exhibit where the bare branches are underplanted with tree ferns and shrubs so it looks much more natural.

The nearby horseshoe aviaries for native birds were very nice in terms of being well-planted with lovely birds inside such as green pigmy goose, bee-eaters, painted buttonquail, regent bowerbird, etc. They are definitely one spot you could spend a very long time just sitting and taking photos. The Wollemi aviary and Palm aviary were likewise most excellent. Neither the platypus nor short-beaked echidnas showed in the Wollemi, and neither did the rock wallabies but that's all right because I'd seen all of those species before. Taronga displays its birds very very well on the whole. I think the South American aviary (macaws, conures and a solitary curassow) was the only "bad" display I saw, being mostly bare concrete and cut branches. I missed the condors entirely because I forgot the zoo had them!

I liked the Reptile House a lot although as Hix has pointed out the visitor area is quite narrow and in holidays must get clogged with people. Even on a Tuesday (when we were there) the visitors were getting in our way a bit. I didn't end up taking many photos at all in there, mainly because I couldn't be bothered changing the lens on my camera so just used my little point-and-shoot job. Seeing Corroboree frogs (not in the Reptile House itself) was a highlight; amazing little frogs they are!

The Great Southern Oceans area was fantastic I thought. The leopard seal pool with its underwater viewing was very impressive in its depth, although the seal itself was asleep on shore and refused to go swimming. The little blue penguin (sorry, fairy penguin) enclosure was also fantastic, having an indoor viewing window, an overhead viewing window (would have made for some good photos if any of them had been in focus!) and a long outdoor pool with a surge machine. Far and away the best little blue penguin enclosure I've ever seen. All too often they get relegated to a little shallow paddling pool where they just sit forlornly on shore wondering what the hell they're doing there. The three Fiordland crested penguins have now been reduced to just one, the two old ones having recently passed on. I didn't manage to get any photos of the Fiordland as it was swimming too fast and unpredictably for me. The only disappointing part of the whole Southern Oceans exhibit was the small and entirely-uninspired pelican enclosure.

I stopped by the gorilla enclosure simply to look at the males that are coming to New Zealand and see what their exhibit was like. The silverback's a very big boy!

The Nocturnal House was the main reason for the zoo visit, and it was without doubt the absolute highlight of the visit. I love nocturnal houses and Taronga's didn't disappoint. The northern quolls with their new litter were great, the yellow-bellied glider was an eye-opener (I had thought they were only the size of sugar gliders - I was wrong!), the great big black-footed tree rat, the bilbies, potoroos, bettongs, bush and plains rats, common ringtails, red-tailed phascogales....the list could go on and on. I really think Australia has the best night animals in the world. The feathertail gliders were simply amazing. I've searched for them in the wild before without success (quite how you're supposed to find something so fast and so small up in the canopy is beyond me!) so actually seeing them in the flesh was brilliant - especially the way they literally run across the cage's glass front like geckoes!!! Just stupendous. Those feathertails would have been my favourite animal at the zoo if it hadn't been for the long-beaked echidna. That's an animal I have always wanted to see. The one in the house is the male. He sort of looks like a ponderously-mobile beanbag with a beak. Really really odd animal. Most of the other visitors passing by thought he was a kiwi! I tried getting some photos and some video but without any acceptable results. Hix on the other hand (eg http://www.zoochat.com/34/zaglossus-mist-189053/ )..... The only thing missing from the nocturnal house were the ghost bats, recently deceased, which was a shame as they were another animal I had always had a yearning to see. Next to the Nocturnal House is the Platypus House. The water rats were out, but the platypus was not. Taronga is the only place in the world where one can observe all three types of monotremes together, but I was destined to just see the long-beaked echidna that day. In the end I didn't see the platypus at the Sydney Aquarium nor the short-beaked echidnas at the Wildlife World, so the trip ended with just the one monotreme after all.

What else can I say about the zoo? I liked a lot the way they have signage up everywhere showing the old cages (eg, how the Wollemi aviary is built on the site of the old monkey cages), and also the old elephant house with its old photos, and the tiny old indoor bear cells (by the red pandas). All pretty brutal looking exhibits by today's standards. It certainly helps the average visitor realise how far the zoos have changed.

Definitely will be returning to Taronga Zoo in the future.

Some photos in the gallery Taronga Zoo Gallery
 
24 November

Today was the designated bird-watching day, but it was a bit of a failure. I was going to the Bicentennial Park on the instructions of a book called Where To Watch Birds In Sydney which said there were often red-necked avocets there. I've never seen a red-necked avocet and its one I would really like to see. And it remains one I would really like to see....

For some reason most of the birds at the park had departed for parts unknown, probably having heard I was coming to look at them. They're crafty like that. There were some birds out and about, such exciting fare as Australian ravens and white ibis...er, right. I was heading for the bird hide on the edge of a big lake, because that's where the avocets were supposed to be seen when they were around. It turned out that, of course, the lake was tidal and it was - of course - low tide so the lake was half empty and there were almost literally no birds there except for a few pied stilts, a couple of chestnut teal and a lone pelican. With nothing to see there I kept on walking. And walking. And walking. Everywhere I went the birds were notable by their absence. Unbelievably, the highlight of the day was a brown quail that ran across the path (new for my Australian list but not for my life list). Back at the hide later in the day the tide was high but the birds were not. The stilts were still there, the chestnut teal had gone, the pelican had been joined by five friends, and a black swan had flown in. That was it. Some passing cyclists said they'd never seen the lake so empty.

I gave up and went to the Aquarium and Wildlife World instead.

The Wildlife World was surprisingly good. I was very impressed with it, not least for the size of the tanks for some of the invertebrates. First up is the glass viewing into the lower part of the three-story butterfly house (entered on the upper level later) and a rather desperate-looking girl trying to get incoming visitors to have a souvenir photo taken, followed by the main invertebrate section with two relatively huge tanks for spiders and bulldog ants, and then many smaller but still sizeable tanks for a wide range of others including several species of stick insects, spiders, scorpions, etc. An extensive native reptile collection was housed in the winding corridor that came after, all housed in clean, large and attractively set-out terraria. The central netted dragons and the perenties were personal favourites here.

The nocturnal section was obviously another favourite, although I was not so enamoured with the other tourists and their flash bulbs. I saw ghost bats here which I was very pleased about, as well as the very cute fat-tailed dunnarts and more feathertail gliders, bilbies, spinifex hopping mice, rufous bettongs, eastern quolls, plains rats, brush-tailed possums, long-nosed potoroos, common ringtails, sugar gliders, northern giant cave gecko, central knob-tailed gecko and an albino carpet python. There were short-beaked echidnas as well but they remained hidden.

Then there was the upper viewing area for the enclosure housing their huge saltwater crocodile Rex, some frog tanks, a surprising red kangaroo enclosure (surprising in as much as that was the last thing I was expecting to see in an indoors attraction, but there was nothing wrong with the enclosure itself which was open to the sky but netted over to keep in the birds that shared the space), an even more surprising cassowary enclosure, one for rock wallabies and southern hairy-nosed wombats, and finally one for koalas.

I spent probably two hours at the Wildlife World and really the only thing I can say against it was the way they had informational videos playing everywhere with very irritating "amusing" sound-effects, which really detracted from the experience. However the informational signage itself was very very good and up to date, which isn't always the case in zoos. The signage is in the form of small tv screens above the exhibits - if there's more than one species in an exhibit the info comes up in rotation which is quite annoying (and probably confusing for some visitors).

The Sydney Aquarium is right next door to the Wildlife World (they are owned by the same company) and it was just as excellent: with one exception. I have just said how the sound effects in the Wildlife World were annoying, but they were nothing compared to the current "The Future Is Wild" exhibition at the Aquarium. I absolutely loathe that TV series. For those who haven't seen it, it was made by Animal Planet in 2003 and follows various imaginary futures and what the animals have evolved into. It claims to have been made in consultation with scientists. I claim those scientists must have been high on crack at the time. Flish, Squibbons, Mega-squid, Babookari....it makes me want to douse my brain in petrol and set it alight. It had an accompanying book, and later a kids' cartoon series as well. [Wikipedia link for the documentary series here: [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Future_Is_Wild[/ame] ]. The Aquarium has seemingly invested a lot in the exhibition and put up tv screens all over the premises loudly playing snippets from the show in continuous loops. So (for example) when you are sitting waiting for the platypus to come out into its tank, a segment of the Flish episode is repeating constantly in your ears. It drove me nuts!

With that complaint out of the way, onto the approval. The tanks at the Aquarium are really nice and unless I'm mistaken I didn't see any exotic (non-Australian) species there at all [actually I do remember seeing a Banggai cardinal so there must have been at least a few exotics]. I like all sorts of aquatic critters of course but I'm mostly interested in seeing the local species when I visit an Aquarium. I can see fish from the Amazon or Africa anywhere. Its the irregular Australian fauna I crave if I'm in Australia. Some of the highlights were the Murray River crayfish, Arafura filesnake, upside-down jellyfish, Red Indian fish and various cowfish. The best of the best though were the dugongs, two of the very few in captivity. They are in the old seal tank (which I presume was a shark tank before that?) and the curved tunnel walls sure do make photography difficult! I have no idea how Hix got the great photos he did of them a while ago. There was only one on display when I was there, the other being somewhere else not on show (although the two guys feeding the dugong on lettuce did not seem overly keen to tell me that there was more than one for some reason). The tank also contains mutitudes of fish and rays competing in a rather desultory fashion with the dugong for the lettuce. I've seen manatees at Singapore Zoo but dugongs are so much better.

I've posted photos from both facilites in the galleries Sydney Wildlife World Gallery and Sydney Aquarium Gallery
 
25 November

Last day in Sydney. First thing in the morning I caught the ferry across to the Botanic Gardens. There were tree martins flitting around the trees in which the grey-headed flying foxes were roosting. I was actually looking for powerful owls which can be seen there from time to time (they feed on the gardens' abundant possums). I asked one of the staff but was told none had been reported for a few months, so that was bird number two I wanted out the window. I ended the Sydney list instead with a banded rail, which is a nice bird too.

I ferried back to Manly to check out of the Guesthouse, then wandered down to the Oceanworld which is just on the beachfront along from the ferry terminal. This is a tiny place that anyone who just wandered in hoping to pass the time but having no real interest in fish, could get round in about five or ten minutes. There's not too much to it, but I ended up staying there for two hours taking photos (or perhaps, trying to take photos would be a better phrase). On the lower level is the oceanarium which has a circular acrylic tunnel. I'm not much of a fan of this sort of tank. Your average visitor likes them because they like spectacle but I much prefer the smaller marine animals rather than shoals of similar-looking silvery fish and sluggish sharks. Still, there were some nice specimens here including red morwong and three-barred porcupinefish, as well as giant cuttlefish in a separate section (there were none of the very large specimens that Hix has photos of in the gallery but cuttlefish have short lifespans). Unfortunately there wasn't much in the way of labelling down there to identify most of the fish. Upstairs on the ground floor was a touch tank (including shark egg-cases) and a rank of six small tanks for scorpionfish, anglerfish, baby sharks and blue-ringed octopus. There was construction work going on around here so I got the impression that normally there are more tanks on this level. The third level was formerly a series of reptile pits, and before that a seal pool; now it is a very nice reef tank with five small viewing windows in the side (these were the viewing into the "five deadliest snakes in the world" tanks when it was reptiles) and also an above-water view (formerly for viewing reptiles and doing handling exhibitions). Luckily the Oceanworld isn't very busy so I could spend a lot of time at the windows trying to get photos of passing fusiliers! On the down-side there was absolutely no labelling for this tank.

It was only after I'd left the Oceanworld (in fact when I was on the plane home) that I remembered the thing I'd most wanted to see there: mermaids! They actually have mermaids in the tanks at times. If I hadn't forgotten about it I would have made sure I'd caught some of the feeding sessions. There's a video of their mermaids in action on their site here: Mermaids Factfile | Oceanworld Manly

There are photos in the gallery Oceanworld Manly Gallery
 
It was only after I'd left the Oceanworld (in fact when I was on the plane home) that I remembered the thing I'd most wanted to see there: mermaids! They actually have mermaids in the tanks at times. If I hadn't forgotten about it I would have made sure I'd caught some of the feeding sessions. There's a video of their mermaids in action on their site here: Mermaids Factfile | Oceanworld Manly

There are photos in the gallery Oceanworld Manly Gallery

Puke. I hadn't heard of this before. Surely scraping the very bottom of the barrel.
 
Puke. I hadn't heard of this before. Surely scraping the very bottom of the barrel.

Sydney Aquarium has Dugong, Oceanworld had to come up with something to counter.

:p

Hix
 
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