Snowleopard's 2017 Road Trip

DAY 6: Thursday, July 6th

Earlier on this trip I toured a couple of small facilities on the northern coast (Northcoast Marine Mammal Center and B. Bryan Preserve) and then I headed south to what is commonly referred to as the Bay Area. Here, at approximately the halfway point of California, is a confluence of 3 large cities (San Francisco, Oakland, San Jose) and within a loose circle are 15 “zoos” and I’ve now visited all of them, whether on this trip or on previous excursions through the state. There is a theme park (Six Flags), an African experience (Safari West Preserve) and several smaller sanctuaries, nature centers and kid-friendly, community-based establishments. Arguably the best of the lot is the California Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park, a vast behemoth that cost $500 million when it opened in 2008 and within its bowels is the Steinhart Aquarium. Safari West is an enjoyable place to visit but costs a fortune and most of the animals can only be seen via a jeep tour. The next biggest and best could potentially be San Francisco Zoo as it receives almost one million annual visitors, but there is a lot about that facility that desperately needs to be renovated and/or bulldozed. Oakland Zoo is perhaps going to be the premier zoo in the region as of next year when the $70 million California Trails opens to complement what is a 3-hour, fairly solid little zoo. With the long-gestating California habitats set to bring in a boom in terms of visitor numbers, Oakland might be taking another step towards the big leagues.

In regards to San Francisco Zoo, a facility that I toured this week, I believe that what the establishment needs is the fundraising for a truly world-class addition. It needs a “Russia’s Grizzly Coast”, which saw Minnesota Zoo’s attendance shoot up to 1.3 million at that time and firmly placed that zoo on the radar amongst the best in the USA. Even small zoos can get a shot in the arm with the addition of a multi-acre, expensive new complex. Cameron Park Zoo in Waco, Texas, had Brazos River Country open slightly more than a decade ago and that part of the zoo is superb. Getting back to San Francisco, there needs to be less Band-Aid exhibits. The zoo has a patched-up South American building that was renovated and re-opened in 2015 but what is inside really isn’t that great. The ongoing overhaul of the WPA bear grottoes has been above average (Grizzly Gulch, Wolf Canyon, the upcoming American Black Bear exhibit) but all of those are tweaks to existing terrain. The Coquerel’s Sifaka exhibit is okay but nothing that will bring in the crowds, and the new playgrounds are wonderful for little kids but obviously there are no new animal exhibits in that area. San Francisco Zoo needs a statement exhibit and I would love to see something done with tigers. After a tiger attacked a keeper in 2006, and the tiger escape in 2007 that ended in tragedy, it would put a marker in the sand if Tiger Trek opened in a few years, a world-class habitat for a species that could be reclaimed by the zoo in a positive manner. A tiger habitat could even be the first step towards an Asian precinct, something that the zoo is lacking.

Here are the 15 “zoos” that I’ve visited that are all within an approximate 1.5-hour radius of the Bay Area:

Aquarium of the Bay (San Francisco)
California Academy of Sciences (San Francisco)
- Steinhart Aquarium
California Raptor Center (Davis)
CuriOdyssey (San Mateo)
Folsom City Zoo Sanctuary (Folsom)
Happy Hollow Park & Zoo (San Jose) – visited twice, both times in 2011
Lindsay Wildlife Experience (Walnut Creek)
Marine Mammal Center (Sausalito)
Micke Grove Zoo (Lodi)
Oakland Zoo (Oakland)
Palo Alto Junior Museum & Zoo (Palo Alto)
Safari West Wildlife Preserve (Sonoma County)
San Francisco Zoo (San Francisco) – visited twice, 2006 and 2017
Six Flags Discovery Kingdom (Vallejo)
Sulphur Creek Nature Center (Hayward)

Now that I was done with the San Francisco/Oakland/San Jose trifecta, I headed along the coast to visit a couple of places that perhaps no other ZooChatter has ever been to.

Zoo/Aquarium #13: Seymour Marine Discovery Center

This establishment is located in Santa Cruz, about an hour south of San Jose and directly on the coastline of the Pacific Ocean. This small aquarium gets a 10 out of 10 for its magnificent setting, and before it opened I spent time checking out the fantastic, 87-foot long, mounted Blue Whale skeleton outside (one of the largest in the world), as well as seeing a mounted Grey Whale skeleton along a scenic walking path. Just a few feet from the edge of the trail is a precipitous cliff and far below was the crashing of the ocean on the rocks. There is a series of buildings here, with many researchers and oceanographers studying all sorts of marine-related items and this summer the parking lot is getting completely repaved and reconfigured and so all visitors have to park several blocks away. I truly wanted to love this place, with its amazing vista outside, its Monterey Bay Aquarium-style façade and location, the dozen workers and volunteers who were all eager to show me around and answer any questions that I had……BUT……

The truth is that Seymour Marine Discovery Center might be situated in a phenomenal setting with multiple buildings but in reality once you strip away the research labs, classrooms and ocean views there are only 2 large rooms and approximately 16 tanks on public display. Including wandering around outside I struggled to spend even 30 minutes here and at $8 it is a bit pricey considering what is on offer. The main entrance area is a grandiose room, with whale statues hanging from the ceiling and loads of information on coral research, climate change, coastal tides, animal facts, etc., but only a single tank with a couple of 4-foot long female Swell Sharks that can be petted. They are almost certainly the largest sharks that I’ve ever seen in a touch tank but even that did not open until 30 minutes after the aquarium opened…where is the logic in that? The second room had 15 tanks, including a long touch tank area and then a couple of rows of average-sized exhibits. Seeing a Red Octopus obtain its food from a glass bottle was pretty cool, as was the collection of Red Pelagic Crabs, and the Spotted Cusk-Eel, and even the Fat Innkeeper Worm in its see-through tube, but this facility is very small and the animals on offer are very few.

Zoo/Aquarium #14: Monterey Zoo

An hour south of Santa Cruz, and about half-an-hour from Monterey and its world-class aquarium, lies the inland city of Salinas and the somewhat infamous Monterey Zoo. This facility is closed to the public except for a daily one-hour tour that starts promptly at 1:00 and on some days in the summer there is a second, 3:00 tour. I arrived at this zoo with very low expectations as I’ve never met anyone who has visited and from what I’d seen online I didn’t have my hopes up. However, I always maintain that every single zoo is worth visiting at least once, partly because “it is there” but also because each zoo deserves an opportunity to reveal itself to an individual. I’ll visit any zoo once and there are hundreds of facilities that I’ll never go back to again but at least I gave them a shot. I found that Monterey Zoo was a real mixed-bag, with some atrocious cages but there is a wave of optimism that gave me hope for the future. The zoo has radically changed in the past 3 years as before that it was regarded as a roadside hellhole.

There were enough visitors signed up for the 1:00 tour so that we were all divided up into two groups, with a tour guide for each crowd. I travelled around in a cluster with about 20 others and our guide was a joke-cracking lady who wore a microphone around her head that was turned on just loud enough to amplify her voice but not loud enough to scare the neighbours. I was impressed immediately, as sometimes on guided tours the presenter’s voice can become drowned out with other noises. I found out that it has only been in the last few years that Monterey Zoo actually became a non-profit zoological garden as before that for a long time it was a training facility for animals that appeared in movies, stages and on television. All the basic, cement-and-wire metal cages were simply holding pens for the animals when they were not touring or being featured elsewhere. As the modern world of cinema has used computer generated images instead of real animals, places with performing critters have understandably suffered.

The first 30 minutes of the tour is the old section of the zoo, which is nothing but tiny metal cages and what amounted to just about the worst zoo I’ve seen in my life. Clay Center Zoo in Kansas still has that title, but at Monterey Zoo there are species such as two leopards (a spotted and a black), African Lion, Caracal, Siberian Lynx, Spotted Hyena, Red Fox, Hamadryas Baboon, Ring-Tailed Lemur, Red Kangaroo, Capybara, Binturong, Patagonian Cavy, American Alligator and Brown Pelican in absolutely disgustingly tiny cages that are lacking enrichment, space or anything worthwhile. In just about every single example there is only the one animal; therefore, I mean one Capybara in a black bucket of water, one Spotted Hyena in a nasty little cement cage, etc. It is fascinating to be able to see the animals so close and the guide gushed forth a lot of information, but this part of the zoo is simply pitiful and downright disgraceful.

However, the good news is that there are a number of cages in the old part of the zoo that are sitting there empty: a trio of metal cages for bears that made me cringe to even imagine bears living in them, several primate cages, and several empty blocks where cages have been torn down and removed. As bad as this area currently is, the situation used to be much worse even up until 2014. The tour guide said that there came a point where a decision had to be made whether to abolish the idea of a zoo or radically transform the entire park into a non-profit venture and a “proper zoo”. The latter idea was chosen and things have altered considerably since then. A brand-new Warthog exhibit has been built and it is quite good and on top of that I was amazed to learn that every single day the Warthog is taken out for walks on a leash! A new Camelid pair of enclosures (Alpacas, Dromedaries, Llamas) has also been constructed near the zoo’s entrance. Elsewhere, the Binturong is removed daily and carried around as it is tame enough to pet, and the two elderly Ring-Tailed Lemurs both are leashed and even taken inside the main house to sleep at night if it gets too cold. Any visitors staying on-site in the “Safari Bungalows” get to meet an animal or two outside of its regular enclosure.

At the back of the zoo is a large paddock that the guide claims to be 5 acres in size, although it was difficult to ascertain the accuracy of that statement as all visitors had to stay behind a certain line and we only had the one clear angle of the habitat. Inside that exhibit are 4 African Elephants, an Ostrich, a Plains Zebra and 2 Asian Water Buffalo, all cohabiting together. For an extra fee of $7 per person, on top of the regular $15 for the guided tour, visitors can feed the elephants by standing back and allowing the trunks to do all the work. At this point the two tour groups merged and about half fed the elephants while the other half moved on to the last section of the zoo. I should make mention of the fact that it was quite extraordinary to see the zebra, ostrich and buffalo mingling with the 4 elephants and in terms of size the elephant paddock is certainly a very good one. However, there is only the one pool far away from visitors and only one very tiny shade structure in a bland, barren field.

The old part of the zoo was a disaster, then the Warthog and African Elephant exhibits perked things up a bit, but the final part of the zoo received huge praise from the crowd. There were cries of “wow…now we’re talking!...this is incredible…what a great zoo” as we walked up a sloping wooden ramp and entered the land of Oz. Lions, tigers, and bears, oh my! In August, 2015, two large tiger exhibits made their debut, then in April, 2016, two spacious lion exhibits opened to the public, and now in 2017 two bear enclosures completed Phase 1 of the brand-new Monterey Zoo. The guide announced to the whole crowd that what we were about to see was “bigger, better and much more modern than anything the San Francisco Zoo or Santa Barbara Zoo gives their carnivores” and I’d have to agree with her. The 6 new enclosures (2 for African Lions, 2 for American Black Bears, 2 for generic zoo tigers, including a white one) are essentially large black metal cages but these particular habitats have plenty of grass, hills of sand, climbing structures, pools and are quite spacious in size. I saw lions sleeping high on their wooden beams, a tiger splashing the edge of its pool, and bears rambling around the grass and I have to admit that the lion exhibits are miles better than anything at San Francisco Zoo, Santa Barbara Zoo and even the San Diego Zoo carnivore grottoes and Elephant Odyssey big cat enclosures. At Monterey there is even a series of extra-large, beautiful new signs, a small picnic area with a lion statue and a brand-new set of washrooms. Walking up to that higher level of the zoo was like walking into an entirely different facility. The 6 new enclosures are all functional but vast improvements on the tiny holding pens at the bottom of the hill and they wouldn’t look out of place at any major American zoo.

After a decade or more where basically nothing new happened at the zoo there has been substantial investment and the future looks a lot brighter. Now that there have been great new additions for tigers (2015), lions (2016) and black bears (2017), what is next for Monterey Zoo? I picked up a magazine in the zoo’s gift shop that has computer-generated images of a new leopard exhibit and a new Spotted Hyena habitat and the guide said that the plans and designs for those exhibits are finished and the zoo is now awaiting funding for the projects. There is a grand total of 51 acres of land and the old zoo was 5 acres and the plan is to turn Monterey Zoo into a 30-acre facility that is open on a daily basis with regular zoo hours. I think that if I had visited several years ago I would have been appalled but with the closing down of at least 8-9 old cages and the opening up of the excellent new section, now I’m eager to go back one day as long as the zoo continues its upward trajectory. I’m really hoping that plans don’t stall because if progress continues then this could be a nice little addition to anyone’s zoo trip itinerary and possibly a decent zoo in the future.

Zoo/Aquarium #15: Applegate Park Zoo

I raced 2.5 hours from the Monterey Zoo in Salinas in order to arrive in the city of Merced, an inland town one-hour north of Fresno, as I had slightly tweaked my itinerary and I knew that this zoo closed at 5:00. It is yet another in a long line of American zoos set inside a scenic public park and I suppose that proximity to park visitors is the only reason that some of these tiny places survive. At 4:30 I paid for my admission to Applegate Park Zoo but once inside I could relax as the establishment is a single loop that consists of less than 20 exhibits. The first enclosure was for a Cougar, panting in the 40 degree Celsius (100 Fahrenheit) heat. There were grassy yards for an African Spurred Tortoise and a Desert Tortoise, with only tiny wooden barriers maybe a foot high separating the public from the animals. The rest of the cast of characters consisted of a pacing American Black Bear in a tiny cement hellhole, a couple of Bobcats, at least 4 Raccoons, a skittish Coyote in a small enclosure, a Red Fox and a Grey Fox together, Alpacas, Mule Deer, an Emu, several swans and a few bird aviaries. In the end it took me about 20 minutes to see everything and so I doubled back just to kill some time and make sure that I was there at least half-an-hour. None of the exhibits are very good and with only a $3 admission fee I have no idea how this zoo even manages to stay open. There was a sign along the trail that said something along the lines that recent financial cutbacks had sliced the zookeeper budget by 50% and if anyone wanted to help out that the zoo was desperate for volunteers. This place needs all the help it can get.
 
Firstly S.L... a big hello,youre surprising me with your ability to dig out little places in California..ive been there 6 times and obviously missed some that are reasonably obvious.Somehow i want to be defensive about Applegate even though it is clearly rather inferior,they had some odd(for a European)bird species when i was there..Yellow-billed Magpie,Northern Flicker etc.And i remember the bear being in an,admittedly small, cage,but nothing that warranted "hell hole" status(ive been to zoos in Qatar and the UAE that would change your description to one of "poor" i can assure you).Fulsom had a Wolf/Coyote hybrid..was it still there? And yes,the Black Bear exhibit there is rather good,my notes of the time state that it wouldnt disgrace a much larger zoo.
 
Firstly S.L... a big hello,youre surprising me with your ability to dig out little places in California..ive been there 6 times and obviously missed some that are reasonably obvious.Somehow i want to be defensive about Applegate even though it is clearly rather inferior,they had some odd(for a European)bird species when i was there..Yellow-billed Magpie,Northern Flicker etc.And i remember the bear being in an,admittedly small, cage,but nothing that warranted "hell hole" status(ive been to zoos in Qatar and the UAE that would change your description to one of "poor" i can assure you).Fulsom had a Wolf/Coyote hybrid..was it still there? And yes,the Black Bear exhibit there is rather good,my notes of the time state that it wouldnt disgrace a much larger zoo.

Thanks for joining the party my friend! It is somewhat astonishing that you have two people that you regularly correspond with (one from the U.K. and one from Canada) in California at the exact same time. I've been visiting loads of zoos in the San Francisco Bay Area while @sooty mangabey has been gazing at half-naked Americans in SeaWorld. Ha! At Applegate Park Zoo there was no sign of a Yellow-Billed Magpie, or a Northern Flicker, although the Wolf/Coyote hybrid was still there....it definitely looks more "Coyote-ish" to me. Some of these zoos are so tiny that I have no idea how they manage to stay in operation.
 
DAY 7: Friday, July 7th

The best day of the trip so far…so let’s get right to it! The first one is going to be LONG but very detailed and I hope that you all enjoy it.

Zoo/Aquarium #16: Fresno Chaffee Zoo

I visited Fresno Chaffee Zoo in 2011 and described it as a “mediocre zoo”, which it was at the time. However, it is startling to see the difference only 6 short years later, with attendance almost hitting 1 million visitors last year and a pair of attractions that can only be described as “world-class”. The zoo has been the recipient of the “Measure Z” sales tax, a voted-on monetary contribution that sees local residents pay one tenth of one percent of their taxes to the zoo. Twice now, in 2004 and 2014, the Fresno community has voted to support this endeavor and within the past decade the facility has seen more than $110 million sunk into new exhibits and an amazing African expansion. There is a whole list of future projects that are going to be built due to the fantastic support (always voted on by the city’s residents) and I can only imagine how other zoos must be jealous of the financial boom that has hit Fresno. Can you imagine your local, mid-sized zoo suddenly receiving $110 million?

I arrived bright and early to Roeding Park, where the zoo is located, and I met up with Fred Hood (aka Arizona Docent here on ZooChat) and we have become really good friends over the years. I first met Fred back in 2011 at Reid Park Zoo when I was touring zoos with my wife and our two kids (since then we’ve had two more!) and then I came across Fred again in 2015 when we went out for dinner and I crashed on his couch in his modern loft in the city of Tucson, Arizona. Flash-forward to 2017 and we met for the 3rd time outside the gates of Fresno Chaffee Zoo and due to Fred’s connections I was introduced to the zoo’s director/CEO Scott Barton. He has the same first name as me, and is a veteran zoo man who began as a keeper at Fresno Chaffee Zoo (then known as the Roeding Park Zoo), before moving onwards to various roles at Woodland Park Zoo (1984-1996), Brevard Zoo, Disney’s Animal Kingdom (directly when the zoo opened to the public), Reid Park Zoo and he has been leading the Fresno Chaffee Zoo revolution since 2009 and this will likely be his final position as retirement is maybe 8-10 years away.

Scott Barton was a genial presence and he was a gracious host to Fred and I. He got us into the zoo for free and we headed straight towards the Reptile House. This 1978 building was slated for demolition by the zoo’s previous director but Scott has kept it standing and there have been a number of modifications in recent years. Komodo Dragon and King Cobra exhibits were added and a few in-house refurbishments extended the size of some of the terrariums and created some interesting mixed-species habitats. There was an Eastern Green Mamba and a Gaboon Viper in together in a huge exhibit, a Red-Tailed Boa Constrictor in with at least a dozen Poison Dart Frogs, and even a couple of active Green Tree Monitors in with Fly River Turtles. Scott then took us behind-the-scenes inside the Reptile House, showing us a number of small rooms and the inner workings of the building. This is a solid little structure and I’m grateful that he was so kind to us, and to top it off is a shady Red Wolf exhibit and a Galapagos Tortoise yard just outside.

Up next was Sea Lion Cove, possibly the best pinniped exhibit I’ve ever seen in my life. Saint Louis Zoo has Sea Lion Sound with its magnificent underwater tunnel but Fresno’s California Sea Lion/Harbour Seal exhibit (4.2 of the species), is practically hidden from the public and is accessed via a winding trail through small grassy tussocks modeled after Point Lobos in California. The attention to detail is remarkable, from the barnacles on the superbly-crafted rock-work to the filtration system to the viewing areas to the underwater viewing window. It is world-class, won Best New Exhibit via the AZA and immediately the year it opened total zoo attendance rose 28%. Wow. Scott Barton then took Fred and I behind-the-scenes here and we passed through the food preparation area, saw the quarantine zone and off-show pinniped pool and all of the associated filters and tanks that go along with seals and sea lions.

Then came the zoo’s crowning achievement: African Adventure. This area only just opened in October of 2015 and it cost a whopping $56 million, has 100 animals, and is one of the best African zoo displays that I’ve seen of all the 375 zoos that I’ve been to. The centerpiece is an absolutely enormous Safari Lodge that has a huge outdoor eating plaza overlooking the animals. The African Savanna (4 separate habitats that all look as if they are one glorious exhibit) is spread out in all of its glory and several times during the day Fred and I came and went and each time the savanna looked different with the moving animals. While the restaurant is amongst the top handful of places to eat at any American zoo (with high-quality food), the animal habitats are phenomenal and arguably slightly more impressive than Giants of the Savanna at Dallas Zoo. There are two African Elephant yards that total 4 acres in size, with a male and two females rotating throughout the day, and the entire African section is 13 acres. The main savanna yard has Southern White Rhinos (including a six-month old) rambling amongst the wildebeest, Greater Kudu, Addax, Impala and various birds. The 4th yard has Reticulated Giraffes (5 of them) and the antelope have the ability to wander at will. Scott Barton left us at this point as we’d seen him for an hour and he had meetings to attend to, but he did tell us that at Fresno they do not lock the African animals in at night and so if the elephants or lions or rhinos want to sleep under the stars then that is their choice. The African Lion exhibit is terrific, with a pile of rocks apparently 20-feet high to give them a lookout, plus a mature tree that a keeper told us one of the lions regularly climbs. There is also a standard Meerkat exhibit, a spacious Cheetah yard and an attractive outdoor reptile habitat.

Fred and I toured the rest of the zoo, seeing the fairly new Spotted-Necked Otter exhibit (what was the old pinniped pool when I was there in 2011), the Australian Walkabout enclosure (Red Kangaroos, Emus, Tammar Wallabies) that just opened in September of 2016, the Asian section (orangutans, tigers, sloth bears), the now empty Asian Elephant yard (the zoo briefly had two species of elephant), going through the small Reptile House again, and the very disappointing and outdated small mammal enclosures. We then settled down for lunch while looking out at the gorgeous African area. At this point the director/CEO Scott Barton rejoined us and spent another 1.5 hours with Fred and I. It was a sheer delight to talk about zoos, zoos and more zoos as we discussed a plethora of zoological related business while gazing serenely at the constantly evolving and moving African savanna. Just as Fred and I were getting ready to leave after our long visit, Scott shocked us by asking if we wanted to see some more things before we departed. He then took us around to the back of the zoo and we went inside the cavernous Elephant Barn with its towering ceilings and smell of “zoo” all around. We met a couple of keepers and saw two of the elephants inside the barn, before departing to view some more behind-the-scenes areas such as walking past the Giraffe Barn and getting a close-up look at the Antelope House (which resembles horse stabling). After circling that trio of buildings we then went up to the giraffe feeding platform and for free grabbed a handful of lettuce each and proceeded to feed the giraffes.

Scott was a very generous host, taking hours out of his day to really lay out the red carpet for Fred and I. I’m always grateful when zoo directors or zoo personnel take the time to show zoo enthusiasts around their zoo and there is a sense that they want to do it to show how wonderful their facility is. Fresno Chaffee Zoo has essentially doubled its attendance, doubled its acreage and become a major player just in the last few years. Sea Lion Cove, Stingray Bay, Spotted-Necked Otter exhibit, an incredibly popular Dinosaur Sand Pit (Scott Barton said it has been shockingly successful and the zoo is adding items to the sandbox later this year as kids dig up giant fake fossils), the $56 million African Adventure, Australian Walkabout, etc. Construction is already underway on an average-sized kiddie Water Park next to the Dinosaur Sand Pit, plus there is a brand-new Warthog habitat opening across from the lions in spring 2018. There are apparently 8 projects of one kind or another ongoing at this rapidly transforming zoo.

Anyone that has not been to Fresno Chaffee Zoo for several years would be astonished at the transformation. With additional income 100% guaranteed up until 2024 due to the Measure Z sales tax the zoo is aiming even higher! The orangutan exhibit is going to be slightly expanded, with new viewing areas and a renovation of the climbing platforms. The now empty Asian Elephant yard is going to be home to Greater One-Horned Rhinos. There is going to be a large Asian complex, with the zoo’s existing Malayan Tigers and Sloth Bears getting wonderful new exhibits that will tie in nicely with the aforementioned rhino and orangutan enclosures near the entrance to the zoo. Designers are already far along with the future African River complex, which will house Nile Hippos and likely Nile Crocodiles, amongst many other animals, and will be situated near the current 4-acre African Elephant area. Scott Barton said that the zoo is earmarking $30 million for hippos and crocs, wondering whether to net the entire area and even have various birds and antelope in with the hippos in a spacious grassy exhibit, and he said that the goal is to “construct the best hippo exhibit in the nation”. There are even more ambitious plans beyond the African River section but they are far into the future and at this point purely speculative. After a full 5 hours, Fred and I departed Fresno Chaffee Zoo after a truly great zoological experience.

Zoo/Aquarium #17: Project Survival’s Cat Haven

Fred and I drove separately and met up at this cat zoo, which is located on the way to Sequoia National Park and in the city of Dunlap, about an hour east of Fresno. The zoo is somewhat in the middle of nowhere, and with only 30,000 annual visitors I wonder how it even survives. Fred is a cat fanatic and he has been on 4 occasions and I suppose that it is visitors like him that keep the place open…haha! The only way to tour the establishment is to go on a one-hour with a guide, but due to Fred’s connections I got in for free and we had a private tour with just the two of us and a keeper named Jenn. Once again I was fortunate enough to have met Fred way back in 2011 as he has been a great friend to me over the years. He is a quirky guy that does not own a cellphone, or a television, or an I-pad, or an I-pod, or a GPS system in his car (his maps to the zoos were all hand-drawn) but I count him as a very good friend. We all have our quirks…I visit hundreds of obscure zoos and watch 250+ movies every year so who am I to talk, right?

Anyway, Cat Haven has nothing but cats and the 12 species that we saw during our visit are listed here: African Lion, Bengal Tiger (generic zoo species but including a white one), Cheetah, Jaguar (the zoo has 9 Jaguars), Snow Leopard, Amur Leopard, Cougar, Serval, Eurasian Lynx, Canada Lynx, Bobcat and Pallas’ Cat. The facility also has 3 Jaguarundi (but we didn’t them) and has been in existence for about 20 years. All of the enclosures are very basic in size and shape, although their functionality is helped greatly by having been constructed around live, large trees that allow some of the cats to have natural perches. The sandy walking trails are steep and the heat was oppressive, but our guide Jenn was terrific and more than willing to show Fred whatever he wanted for his private photo shoot.

We saw the Pallas’s Cat as it was enticed out of its sleeping quarters with freshly cut chicken and a perfumed scent. Other cats were fed and thus came out of their hiding places to growl and chuff, including a stocky Jaguar that leapt into its tree. Fred and I then went into the enclosure with the big male Cheetah and while we never touched the cat (like I did at White Oak way back in 2008), the animal was within a few feet and very impressive as it purred with great aplomb. There is nothing quite like being next to a fully-grown Cheetah with zero barriers, something that could never be done with a tiger, lion or leopard. There was a young Cougar, although almost fully-grown at this point, that was led out on a leash and Fred took photos of it while the cat was next to a more natural-looking backdrop instead of its cage. Other than a couple of mild lunges at our legs the frisky Cougar was well-behaved and a terrific ambassador for its species. We ended up staying at Cat Haven for almost two hours and then we departed and went our separate ways after a glorious day. Fred headed to Sequoia National Park while I headed south towards more zoos. Where else would I go?
 
DAY 7: Friday, July 7th

The best day of the trip so far…so let’s get right to it! The first one is going to be LONG but very detailed and I hope that you all enjoy it.

Zoo/Aquarium #16: Fresno Chaffee Zoo

I visited Fresno Chaffee Zoo in 2011 and described it as a “mediocre zoo”, which it was at the time. However, it is startling to see the difference only 6 short years later, with attendance almost hitting 1 million visitors last year and a pair of attractions that can only be described as “world-class”. The zoo has been the recipient of the “Measure Z” sales tax, a voted-on monetary contribution that sees local residents pay one tenth of one percent of their taxes to the zoo. Twice now, in 2004 and 2014, the Fresno community has voted to support this endeavor and within the past decade the facility has seen more than $110 million sunk into new exhibits and an amazing African expansion. There is a whole list of future projects that are going to be built due to the fantastic support (always voted on by the city’s residents) and I can only imagine how other zoos must be jealous of the financial boom that has hit Fresno. Can you imagine your local, mid-sized zoo suddenly receiving $110 million?

I arrived bright and early to Roeding Park, where the zoo is located, and I met up with Fred Hood (aka Arizona Docent here on ZooChat) and we have become really good friends over the years. I first met Fred back in 2011 at Reid Park Zoo when I was touring zoos with my wife and our two kids (since then we’ve had two more!) and then I came across Fred again in 2015 when we went out for dinner and I crashed on his couch in his modern loft in the city of Tucson, Arizona. Flash-forward to 2017 and we met for the 3rd time outside the gates of Fresno Chaffee Zoo and due to Fred’s connections I was introduced to the zoo’s director/CEO Scott Barton. He has the same first name as me, and is a veteran zoo man who began as a keeper at Fresno Chaffee Zoo (then known as the Roeding Park Zoo), before moving onwards to various roles at Woodland Park Zoo (1984-1996), Brevard Zoo, Disney’s Animal Kingdom (directly when the zoo opened to the public), Reid Park Zoo and he has been leading the Fresno Chaffee Zoo revolution since 2009 and this will likely be his final position as retirement is maybe 8-10 years away.

Scott Barton was a genial presence and he was a gracious host to Fred and I. He got us into the zoo for free and we headed straight towards the Reptile House. This 1978 building was slated for demolition by the zoo’s previous director but Scott has kept it standing and there have been a number of modifications in recent years. Komodo Dragon and King Cobra exhibits were added and a few in-house refurbishments extended the size of some of the terrariums and created some interesting mixed-species habitats. There was an Eastern Green Mamba and a Gaboon Viper in together in a huge exhibit, a Red-Tailed Boa Constrictor in with at least a dozen Poison Dart Frogs, and even a couple of active Green Tree Monitors in with Fly River Turtles. Scott then took us behind-the-scenes inside the Reptile House, showing us a number of small rooms and the inner workings of the building. This is a solid little structure and I’m grateful that he was so kind to us, and to top it off is a shady Red Wolf exhibit and a Galapagos Tortoise yard just outside.

Up next was Sea Lion Cove, possibly the best pinniped exhibit I’ve ever seen in my life. Saint Louis Zoo has Sea Lion Sound with its magnificent underwater tunnel but Fresno’s California Sea Lion/Harbour Seal exhibit (4.2 of the species), is practically hidden from the public and is accessed via a winding trail through small grassy tussocks modeled after Point Lobos in California. The attention to detail is remarkable, from the barnacles on the superbly-crafted rock-work to the filtration system to the viewing areas to the underwater viewing window. It is world-class, won Best New Exhibit via the AZA and immediately the year it opened total zoo attendance rose 28%. Wow. Scott Barton then took Fred and I behind-the-scenes here and we passed through the food preparation area, saw the quarantine zone and off-show pinniped pool and all of the associated filters and tanks that go along with seals and sea lions.

Then came the zoo’s crowning achievement: African Adventure. This area only just opened in October of 2015 and it cost a whopping $56 million, has 100 animals, and is one of the best African zoo displays that I’ve seen of all the 375 zoos that I’ve been to. The centerpiece is an absolutely enormous Safari Lodge that has a huge outdoor eating plaza overlooking the animals. The African Savanna (4 separate habitats that all look as if they are one glorious exhibit) is spread out in all of its glory and several times during the day Fred and I came and went and each time the savanna looked different with the moving animals. While the restaurant is amongst the top handful of places to eat at any American zoo (with high-quality food), the animal habitats are phenomenal and arguably slightly more impressive than Giants of the Savanna at Dallas Zoo. There are two African Elephant yards that total 4 acres in size, with a male and two females rotating throughout the day, and the entire African section is 13 acres. The main savanna yard has Southern White Rhinos (including a six-month old) rambling amongst the wildebeest, Greater Kudu, Addax, Impala and various birds. The 4th yard has Reticulated Giraffes (5 of them) and the antelope have the ability to wander at will. Scott Barton left us at this point as we’d seen him for an hour and he had meetings to attend to, but he did tell us that at Fresno they do not lock the African animals in at night and so if the elephants or lions or rhinos want to sleep under the stars then that is their choice. The African Lion exhibit is terrific, with a pile of rocks apparently 20-feet high to give them a lookout, plus a mature tree that a keeper told us one of the lions regularly climbs. There is also a standard Meerkat exhibit, a spacious Cheetah yard and an attractive outdoor reptile habitat.

Fred and I toured the rest of the zoo, seeing the fairly new Spotted-Necked Otter exhibit (what was the old pinniped pool when I was there in 2011), the Australian Walkabout enclosure (Red Kangaroos, Emus, Tammar Wallabies) that just opened in September of 2016, the Asian section (orangutans, tigers, sloth bears), the now empty Asian Elephant yard (the zoo briefly had two species of elephant), going through the small Reptile House again, and the very disappointing and outdated small mammal enclosures. We then settled down for lunch while looking out at the gorgeous African area. At this point the director/CEO Scott Barton rejoined us and spent another 1.5 hours with Fred and I. It was a sheer delight to talk about zoos, zoos and more zoos as we discussed a plethora of zoological related business while gazing serenely at the constantly evolving and moving African savanna. Just as Fred and I were getting ready to leave after our long visit, Scott shocked us by asking if we wanted to see some more things before we departed. He then took us around to the back of the zoo and we went inside the cavernous Elephant Barn with its towering ceilings and smell of “zoo” all around. We met a couple of keepers and saw two of the elephants inside the barn, before departing to view some more behind-the-scenes areas such as walking past the Giraffe Barn and getting a close-up look at the Antelope House (which resembles horse stabling). After circling that trio of buildings we then went up to the giraffe feeding platform and for free grabbed a handful of lettuce each and proceeded to feed the giraffes.

Scott was a very generous host, taking hours out of his day to really lay out the red carpet for Fred and I. I’m always grateful when zoo directors or zoo personnel take the time to show zoo enthusiasts around their zoo and there is a sense that they want to do it to show how wonderful their facility is. Fresno Chaffee Zoo has essentially doubled its attendance, doubled its acreage and become a major player just in the last few years. Sea Lion Cove, Stingray Bay, Spotted-Necked Otter exhibit, an incredibly popular Dinosaur Sand Pit (Scott Barton said it has been shockingly successful and the zoo is adding items to the sandbox later this year as kids dig up giant fake fossils), the $56 million African Adventure, Australian Walkabout, etc. Construction is already underway on an average-sized kiddie Water Park next to the Dinosaur Sand Pit, plus there is a brand-new Warthog habitat opening across from the lions in spring 2018. There are apparently 8 projects of one kind or another ongoing at this rapidly transforming zoo.

Anyone that has not been to Fresno Chaffee Zoo for several years would be astonished at the transformation. With additional income 100% guaranteed up until 2024 due to the Measure Z sales tax the zoo is aiming even higher! The orangutan exhibit is going to be slightly expanded, with new viewing areas and a renovation of the climbing platforms. The now empty Asian Elephant yard is going to be home to Greater One-Horned Rhinos. There is going to be a large Asian complex, with the zoo’s existing Malayan Tigers and Sloth Bears getting wonderful new exhibits that will tie in nicely with the aforementioned rhino and orangutan enclosures near the entrance to the zoo. Designers are already far along with the future African River complex, which will house Nile Hippos and likely Nile Crocodiles, amongst many other animals, and will be situated near the current 4-acre African Elephant area. Scott Barton said that the zoo is earmarking $30 million for hippos and crocs, wondering whether to net the entire area and even have various birds and antelope in with the hippos in a spacious grassy exhibit, and he said that the goal is to “construct the best hippo exhibit in the nation”. There are even more ambitious plans beyond the African River section but they are far into the future and at this point purely speculative. After a full 5 hours, Fred and I departed Fresno Chaffee Zoo after a truly great zoological experience.

Zoo/Aquarium #17: Project Survival’s Cat Haven

Fred and I drove separately and met up at this cat zoo, which is located on the way to Sequoia National Park and in the city of Dunlap, about an hour east of Fresno. The zoo is somewhat in the middle of nowhere, and with only 30,000 annual visitors I wonder how it even survives. Fred is a cat fanatic and he has been on 4 occasions and I suppose that it is visitors like him that keep the place open…haha! The only way to tour the establishment is to go on a one-hour with a guide, but due to Fred’s connections I got in for free and we had a private tour with just the two of us and a keeper named Jenn. Once again I was fortunate enough to have met Fred way back in 2011 as he has been a great friend to me over the years. He is a quirky guy that does not own a cellphone, or a television, or an I-pad, or an I-pod, or a GPS system in his car (his maps to the zoos were all hand-drawn) but I count him as a very good friend. We all have our quirks…I visit hundreds of obscure zoos and watch 250+ movies every year so who am I to talk, right?

Anyway, Cat Haven has nothing but cats and the 12 species that we saw during our visit are listed here: African Lion, Bengal Tiger (generic zoo species but including a white one), Cheetah, Jaguar (the zoo has 9 Jaguars), Snow Leopard, Amur Leopard, Cougar, Serval, Eurasian Lynx, Canada Lynx, Bobcat and Pallas’ Cat. The facility also has 3 Jaguarundi (but we didn’t them) and has been in existence for about 20 years. All of the enclosures are very basic in size and shape, although their functionality is helped greatly by having been constructed around live, large trees that allow some of the cats to have natural perches. The sandy walking trails are steep and the heat was oppressive, but our guide Jenn was terrific and more than willing to show Fred whatever he wanted for his private photo shoot.

We saw the Pallas’s Cat as it was enticed out of its sleeping quarters with freshly cut chicken and a perfumed scent. Other cats were fed and thus came out of their hiding places to growl and chuff, including a stocky Jaguar that leapt into its tree. Fred and I then went into the enclosure with the big male Cheetah and while we never touched the cat (like I did at White Oak way back in 2008), the animal was within a few feet and very impressive as it purred with great aplomb. There is nothing quite like being next to a fully-grown Cheetah with zero barriers, something that could never be done with a tiger, lion or leopard. There was a young Cougar, although almost fully-grown at this point, that was led out on a leash and Fred took photos of it while the cat was next to a more natural-looking backdrop instead of its cage. Other than a couple of mild lunges at our legs the frisky Cougar was well-behaved and a terrific ambassador for its species. We ended up staying at Cat Haven for almost two hours and then we departed and went our separate ways after a glorious day. Fred headed to Sequoia National Park while I headed south towards more zoos. Where else would I go?
It will always amaze me how such an old mediocre zoo is able to get so much funding, and transform so dramatically. Clearly the director of Fresno knows what he's doing and is extremely passionate about what he does.

Maybe @Arizona Docent could answer this better, but are jaguarondi usually on full time public view? And what other facilities are currently holding them?
 
DAY 8: Saturday, July 8th

Last night, after my Cat Haven escapades, I drove 3.5 hours in a southwest direction to the coastline and landed in a fairly remote part of California. There are some tiny seaside resort areas that are 2-3 hours south of Monterey, home to one of the world’s greatest aquariums. I had already visited that establishment on 3 occasions and so I found myself many hours south and touring a couple of puny aquariums that most zoo enthusiasts have likely not even heard of. Along the way I passed through Atascadero and in fact I drove directly past the Charles Paddock Zoo’s entrance but I didn’t have any time to spare or else I would have gone for a quick tour of a zoo that I visited back in 2011.

Zoo/Aquarium #18: Morro Bay Aquarium

Morro Bay Aquarium is located in Morro Bay, directly on the Pacific Ocean waterfront and a magnet for tourists of all ages. A wooden façade and the barking of sea lions can be heard and I saw people turn their heads with puzzled expressions as they strolled along the sidewalk. The trio of California Sea Lions (and one Harbor Seal) are in a tiny bathtub almost identical to the Harbour Seal exhibit at Seaside Aquarium in Oregon and the enclosures are mirror images of each other. Those pinnipeds might bring in the crowds (at a cost of only $3 admission) but they are the main reason why the facility is closing for good in September 2018. A home-grown business that has been run by the same Tyler family for 55 years is closing its doors next year in part due to vocal opposition from animal-rights activists and multiple protests over the years. The Tyler family has refused to comply with a whole list of city ordinances that have requested an expansion and upgrade to certain elements of the facility, and thus the building will not be salvaged but instead bulldozed into rubble after September 2018. There is currently a fundraising effort to construct a brand-new, modern aquarium on the same basic footprint of the current one.

So what do I make of this old, outdated, soon-to-be-extinct facility? Well, I’ve now visited around 80 different aquariums in my lifetime and this one is probably the worst. The pinniped exhibit is smaller than what I saw behind-the-scenes at Fresno Chaffee Zoo yesterday and the rest of this establishment consists of exactly 14 tanks. There is a single room with the sea lions and then a second room with 11 tanks lining the walls and then a trio of slightly larger tanks spread across the center of the room. To be honest it was very difficult to spend even 20 minutes in the aquarium and no wonder they only charge $3 for a ticket. There were loads of signs everywhere and in one case there was at least 6 species signs and only a single fish (Sheephead) in the tank! A very active Giant Pacific Octopus was spreading its arms out and that action essentially took up the entire size of the tank, which has nothing else in it except for a series of small rocks and a pipe in the middle. The highlights include: at least 15 species of rockfish, a Northern Lobster, a Wolf Eel and a couple of California Moray Eels (one of which has been at the aquarium since 1983). I took a kind of perverse joy in visiting and I wouldn’t have skipped this place for the world.

Zoo/Aquarium #19: Central Coast Aquarium

This aquarium is approximately 25 minutes away from Morro Bay Aquarium, but instead of being 55 years old and facing demolition it was very busy on the day of my visit and tourists were invading the beach directly outside of the building. This facility opened in 1994 as the Avila Beach Sea Life Center, as it is found within the city of Avila Beach, but it was rebranded about a decade ago and advertises itself as being “only 90 minutes from Santa Barbara”. The teal-coloured building is striking from a distance and there are lots of signs stating Public Aquarium in the vicinity, but once inside and after I had paid my $8 admission I discovered that there were only 18 tanks and in truth it isn’t much larger than the Morro Bay establishment. A few touch tanks, including one for 3-foot long Swell Sharks, is the main draw, plus a nice wall showcasing the different stages of Moon Jellies that takes up 4 tanks. The surprise for me were separate exhibits for a Red Octopus and a rarely-showcased California Two-Spot Octopus, a species that I’m not sure I’ve ever seen before.

Both of the aquariums I visited today can easily be seen in 20 minutes each, as Morro Bay only has 14 tanks plus sea lions while Central Coast has 18 tanks in total. Talking to a staff member at the second facility, it seems as if at least 80% of all visitors are tourists, probably because locals know that their beach-front aquarium can be seen in 20 minutes while unsuspecting tourists are willing to pull out their wallets and indulge during the summertime. There is part of me that actually preferred the Morro Bay Aquarium, even though it is well past its due date, as it at least has character and a timeworn kitsch while the newer, slicker, Central Coast facility is as bland and tasteless as a decaying fish.

After touring the two small aquatic establishments, I then proceeded south but after 20 miles of driving I had to turn around as there was smoke on the horizon and a raging fire in the Sierra Madre mountains. After stopping to chat with a few police officers that had blocked the main highway, I had to turn around and travel 20 miles back to where I had come from and then head inland in an entirely different direction. After more than 3 hours of driving I found myself in Rosamond, home to the Feline Conservation Center.

Zoo/Aquarium #20: Feline Conservation Center

This is a zoo with cats, and I’ll start with the incredible Species List: Malayan Tiger, Amur Leopard, North Chinese Leopard, Persian Leopard (off-exhibit), Snow Leopard, Clouded Leopard, Cougar, Jaguar, Jaguarundi, Serval, Ocelot, Margay, Geoffrey’s Cat, Pallas’ Cat, Jungle Cat, Canada Lynx, Bobcat and Sand Cat. The rarities on show are mind-boggling and two different employees told me that the single Persian Leopard is the only specimen of its kind in North America. Some of the other cats (Jaguarundi, Margay, Geoffrey’s Cat, Sand Cat) are ones that I almost never see on my zoo trips. Even here it was difficult and I didn’t physically see every single species I listed as some of the cats were hiding in their dark shelters.

It was deathly hot on my visit and for most of my one-hour tour I was the solitary visitor to this small zoo. Some of the cat enclosures are of an adequate size but most are too small and the overall quality is not as impressive as my tour of Cat Haven the day before. Between the two cat zoos, and including a Black-Footed Cat at Fresno Chaffee Zoo, I saw approximately half the world’s feline species in the space of 24 hours. The Feline Conservation Center has had terrific success with its breeding and it was wonderful seeing some small cats that are literally close to extinction in American zoos. The real highlight was doubling back to the Jaguarundi section on 3 occasions before the female came out, walked around her small enclosure and then settled down to pant in the shade. That species is one that I have seen only once or twice before in my lifetime and this establishment is a must-see for anyone even remotely interested in felines.
 
The developments at Fresno sound remarkable. The one qualm I have is that if it's all being financed by a tax measure that's due to expire in 2024, they could end up in trouble if a) they are using some of that revenue to finance day to day operations and b) the law isn't renewed at a future election, which is certainly possible. It would leave them quite vulnerable since the operating costs will have rocketed up with all the new developments.

Did Mr Barton say whether some of the money is being put into a fund that could ultimately make the zoo financially secure even in the case of a change in tax laws?
 
Sorry to be Peter Pedant...but its GeoffrOy`s Cat(named after the French naturalist Etienne Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, i wouldnt want folks sniggering behind your back in the supermarket about it!).Yet again, three places ive never heard of...youre drawing me back to California you little teaser you! Surprised about the Persian Leopard(i assume saxicolor) getting down to just one in the US...time flies by, but Im sure they were at S.D.Zoo last time i was there. Dont see Jungle Cats much these days either..
 
DAY 8: Saturday, July 8th
Zoo/Aquarium #18: Morro Bay Aquarium

Morro Bay is actually the setting for the fictional Marine Life Institute where most of the blockbuster Disney movie, "Finding Dory", takes place. This place is called (in the film), "the jewel of Morro Bay", which definitely does not describe the poor aquarium that SnowLeopard saw. Actually, I've read that the Disney writers and illustrators were more influenced by the Monterey Bay Aquarium when they created what looks like an excellent aquatic park in the cartoon film.
 
The developments at Fresno sound remarkable. The one qualm I have is that if it's all being financed by a tax measure that's due to expire in 2024, they could end up in trouble if a) they are using some of that revenue to finance day to day operations and b) the law isn't renewed at a future election, which is certainly possible. It would leave them quite vulnerable since the operating costs will have rocketed up with all the new developments.

Did Mr Barton say whether some of the money is being put into a fund that could ultimately make the zoo financially secure even in the case of a change in tax laws?

The "Measure Z" zoo sales tax was voted on in 2004 (a decade term) and then again in 2014. The first time 73% of voters approved the one-tenths-of-one-cent sales tax and the second time 72% of voters approved the sales tax...remarkable results. It actually makes me proud to think that a local American community is actively engaged in the future of its zoo, with $112 million being raised and a once-mediocre zoo now opening world-class exhibits. Director/CEO Scott Barton did tell me that attendance in 2017 has dropped noticeably due to consistent rainy weekends in California (highly unusual) and also the $56 million, 13-acre African Adventure complex is now almost two years old and a little of the novelty has worn off.

This article has a nice breakdown of all the costs, including for things like Stingray Bay ($121,000) and the upcoming water play area ($100,000). Scott Barton is quoted as saying that there is still $26.7 million left in the fund:

Breaking Down Measure Z Funds: How Have Dollars Been Spent?

This link has the meetings of the Finance Committee from April 19th, 2017, and there are lots of interesting statistics in the breakdown of finances. One of them is mention of employees receiving 3% annual raises and that is something director Barton discussed with me. Every single employee of Fresno Chaffee Zoo, whether a curator or a custodian, receives an annual benefit around the Christmas period and as the zoo has rocketed in attendance then that has been reflected in the monetary bonus. The better the zoo does, the bigger bonus for employees. He has made it a point to hire one extra keeper for each section so that there is always someone to talk to zoo visitors. Barton stresses that as being of great importance, so if 8 keepers are needed for African hoofstock then he hires 9 keepers but that extra keeper that "floats around" is responsible for talking to the public and being highly visible on the zoo pathways at all times. If Sea Lion Cove has 6 keepers than he will hire 7 keepers to have an extra one to point things out to visitors, give guest talks or just be out-and-about on the zoo trails to help people with directions or any questions that they have. He said he has made it clear to the zoo board that it is worth the extra expense and while Fred (Arizona Docent) and I were at the zoo on two occasions keepers randomly came up to us and chatted.

https://fresnochaffeezoo.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Agenda-Item-3-FC-Minutes-04.19.2017.pdf

The growth of this zoo has been nothing short of astonishing, and I only wish that more cities would support their local zoo with such astonishing eagerness. I think that in 2024 the sales tax vote will likely be around 70% again because the changes at the zoo are there for all to see. Who wouldn't want a new Asian complex with Malayan Tigers, Sloth Bears, Greater One-Horned Rhinos and a revamped orangutan exhibit? That is up next, but not before a $100,000 water park and a new Warthog enclosure. Planning is already up and running for an African River experience (hippos and crocs) that will probably cost $30 million and if the Measure Z sales tax results in 2024 are positive then the zoo can look forward to tens of millions of dollars of more improvements. Jump ahead another decade and the big California zoos with many subpar exhibits (San Francisco and Los Angeles) will be looking over their shoulders at Fresno, which already tied San Francisco in attendance just last year and has blown past San Francisco in terms of overall quality.

A long answer to your question but Fresno Chaffee Zoo has a very bright future indeed!
 
DAY 9: Sunday, July 9th

Today was yet another packed day in southern California, with much to see and do. I had a trio of relatively obscure facilities to tour, likely unheard of by many ZooChatters, plus the world-famous San Diego Zoo…a great way to cap off the half-way point of this long and exciting trip.

Zoo/Aquarium #21: California Wolf Center:

This obscure facility is located in the city of Julian, about 30 minutes east of Escondido, where the San Diego Zoo Safari Park is situated. For a tour it is necessary to pre-book tickets online and reserve your place, and the establishment is found in an extremely remote location. Julian only has 1,500 people and a long and winding road takes visitors to the KQ Ranch Resort, a luxury RV camping destination that is adjacent to the wolf center. From there everyone waits on a gravel road and a representative from the center drives down to greet visitors and collect entrance fees for the pre-booked slots. From that point all the vehicles get in a long line, with the wolf center’s truck leading the way, and there is a one-mile drive along a gravel road that is bumpy and narrow. After a mile a gate is unlocked and a downward, steep, paved section flows into a parking lot where the California Wolf Center can be found. The gate is then locked and this remote location is where visitors stay for the tour.

I again met Fred (aka Arizona Docent) and we joined at least 35 other people for the large group tour and including the checking-in process we were at the facility for close to 2 hours. Visiting this establishment is broken up into two parts, and first of all was a 45-minute talk and slide show all about wolves and what the center does for conservation. The speaker was very good and the speech was incredibly informative, but at 45 minutes in length it was a bit on the long side and little kids were squirming in the audience. The second half of the tour consists of looking at two large wolf exhibits outside. The first exhibit was just over an acre in size, with a male and female Mexican Grey Wolf (or just Mexican Wolf) striding into view every few minutes as we all listened to an employee spout forth a wealth of information about wolves. Then we moved towards a second habitat that was just over 2.5 acres in size with a pack of 8 North American Grey Wolves, although we only saw 2 of the wolves while we listened to the speech and had visitors ask questions. There are several other wolf habitats that are not open to the public and 29 wolves in total at the center, but some will be released into the wild and so cannot be habituated to humans. This is at least the third “wolf zoo” that I’ve been to (California, Washington, Missouri) and the one near the Saint Louis Zoo (Endangered Wolf Center) is by far the best because the opening introductory session lasts only 30 minutes and there are 5 species to see.

Zoo/Aquarium #22: Free Flight Exotic Bird Sanctuary

This facility is very tiny, is located about 20 minutes north of San Diego Zoo in the city of Del Mar, is only open from 11-4 each day, and consists of an outdoor area perhaps 3,000 sq. ft. in size. This “bird zoo” is a sanctuary for unwanted pets, confiscated exotic animals and birds that essentially no longer have a home anywhere else. There are 28 species and more than 50 birds in total, including an African Crowned Crane, a couple of Eclectus Parrots, several African Grey Parrots and a plethora of cockatoos, budgies, cockatiels and macaws. Several birds are perched on sticks while many others are in cages haphazardly scattered across the grounds. The idea is for visitors to hold the animals and there was a large group of people there having fun feeding and handling the birds but if anyone chose not to partake in those activities then they’d be done with the place in less than 20 minutes.

Zoo/Aquarium #23: Living Coast Discovery Center

Here is a hidden, underrated little gem of an establishment, almost directly on the Pacific Ocean in Chula Vista and perhaps 25 minutes from San Diego Zoo. Visitors park their vehicles and then have to wait for a shuttle bus in order to be transported the final mile to the center. Inside is a species that is found at no other zoo on the planet: Light-Footed Ridgway’s Rail, a small coastal bird that inhabits marshes in southern California. There are no less than 5 or 6 signs detailing all sorts of facts about that particular species, and so hopefully some visitors walk away with a new appreciation for the specimens that they have just seen. Other bird species at this facility include: Bald Eagle, Golden Eagle, Ferruginous Hawk, Red-Shouldered Hawk, Red-Tailed Hawk, Peregine Falcon, American Kestrel, Crested Caracara, Osprey, Great Horned Owl, Burrowing Owl, Western Screech Owl, Turkey Vulture, American Crow, Greater Roadrunner, Black Oystercatcher, Snowy Egret, Black-Crowned Night Heron, Mallard, Ruddy Duck, Rouen, Gadwall and White-Faced Ibis. A grand total of 24 species, including those unique Light-Footed Ridgway’s Rails and other rarities such as the Osprey and Burrowing Owl species.

Living Coast Discovery Center is part aquarium and part zoo, as outside the main building is a very nicely detailed Eastern Pacific Sea Turtle habitat that is obviously very popular with visitors. At the back of the facility, accessed only by purchasing a ticket, is the Shark & Ray Experience, which consists of a large touch tank with both sharks and rays, and then an even larger exhibit that dominates the covered, but open-air structure. The species list here is: Loggerhead Sea Turtle, Gray Smoothhound Shark, Leopard Shark, Horn Shark, Shovelnose Guitarfish, Bat Ray, Round Stingray and Horseshoe Crab.

Finally, the many very nice exhibits inside the main building include these species: Panther Chameleon, Chuckwalla, American Green Anole, San Diego Alligator Lizard, Western Fence Lizard, Yucatan Spiny-Tailed Iguana, Rosy Boa, Gopher Snake, Glossy Snake, Sonoran Desert Tortoise, Red-Eared Slider, American Bullfrog, Pacific Chorus Frog, Giant Pacific Octopus, California Moray Eel, Kelp Crab, Target Shrimp, California Mantis Shrimp, Peacock Mantis Shrimp, Pacific Seahorse, Red Lionfish, California Scorpionfish, Spotted Sand Bass, Rainbow Trout, Opal Eye, Mullet, Sailfin Molly, Bubble Snail, Wavy Turban Snail, Giant Keyhole Limpet, Abalone, Desert Tarantula and Asian Forest Scorpion.

In short, the Living Coast Discovery Center has at least 65 species on-show, including some true rarities and a high quality of exhibits scattered throughout the establishment. It is a pity that there are only 75,000 annual visitors as the facility is one that I’d actually consider re-visiting again in the future and it is an enjoyable way to spend an hour and a half.

Zoo/Aquarium #24: San Diego Zoo

This is America’s greatest zoo, beyond a shadow of a doubt, and it was a true delight to walk the steep trails and leafy canyons of the world-famous San Diego Zoo. From Giant Pandas to Koalas, from Lowland Gorillas to Polar Bears, there are thousands of animals, millions of annual visitors and this is what many people consider to be the world’s greatest zoological park. Many folks love Singapore Zoo although I’m not sure that I know of anyone who rates it better than San Diego. I often hear European zoo nerds extoll the virtues of Berlin Zoo, with its immense animal collection and historic elements. I’ll have to visit Germany at some point in my life to tour what is undoubtedly a world-class zoo, but from many people that I’ve talked to over the years, and from looking at guidebooks and photos on ZooChat, I’m not sure how Berlin holds up when it comes to the overall quality of exhibits. In the middle of a blustery, barren, bleak, Berlin winter (brrrr!) when the zoo is covered in a sprinkling of snow, there is San Diego drenched in sunshine and looking much the same as it does every day of the year. Although perhaps that is Berlin’s secret weapon, as there the animals can be seen in the changing seasons while in San Diego it is shorts and t-shirts year-round and nothing seems to change weather-wise. San Diego is a remarkably lush zoo, with towering foliage that grows to amazing heights. It is also an open-zoo with scarcely a building in sight and in fact even the 1930’s-era Reptile House has no doors anywhere.

One thing for sure is that a single day at San Diego Zoo is a tough task, particularly with the almost vertical, incredibly steep pathways that are found near the old bear grottoes, up by the old Horn & Hoof Mesa, and particularly in the Tiger Trail region of the park. I saw many families struggling with strollers and sweating in the heat as they dealt with cranky kids and grumbling seniors. Other than a very tiny, cheap-looking playground in the Children’s Zoo, I was once again struck by the fact that San Diego is not really a great zoo for young kids. The sheer size and scale of the park is immense, although for locals who have the ability to drop in and see smaller sections than that would work. I have a LOT to say about the zoo and I intend to delve into that conversation tomorrow during my second visit of this trip and my 6th visit all-time.

Today I arrived at San Diego Zoo in mid-afternoon and I ended up staying close to 6 hours at the park, walking around until my feet were sore and throbbing after an already very long day. I basically saw the entire right-hand side of the zoo (much of it is under construction) and several sections on the left-hand side. After 4 hours of walking around alone I yet again met up with Fred (aka Arizona Docent) as well as Curtis (aka Otter Lord) and his lovely wife Maggie. We had a reservation for a dine-in experience at Albert’s Restaurant in the heart of the zoo and so from 7:30 until 9:00 we had a nice dinner (fish n’ chips for me) and talked about zoos over great food. I had already met Curtis in Syracuse, New York, at Rosamond Gifford Zoo back in 2012, pre-Brexit, pre-Trump, pre-Wayne Rooney’s return to the greatest football club in England. Ha! He and I had lunch back then and so 5 years later it was a joy to meet up again and learn of each other’s exploits in the world. Curtis is 25ish, has full university qualifications and he is a landscape architect working in San Diego (hoping to land a job with a major zoo firm in the next few years) while Maggie is a music teacher. After our meal we were just about the last people in the zoo, and so via faint floodlights we made our way through the grounds and said our goodbyes at approximately 9:15 p.m. Fred and I headed to our suite at Humphrey’s Half-Moon Inn, a swanky motel that was much different than my mattress in the minivan that I have been sleeping on for most of this trip (more on that another day, although I’m sleeping great and saving more than a thousand dollars). I was due back at San Diego Zoo for another visit on Monday and it was time to get some shut-eye…
 
I got home a few hours ago and am finally back online. I had to read this report to see what I have been doing the last few days. On my way out I stopped by The Living Desert in Palm Desert which was great as always and still one of my favorite zoos. I also visited EFBC Feline Conservation Center later that day (two days before snowleopard) though I will say his review is very generous. Even though I am a cat fanatic and appreciate their breeding record, many of the cages are dismal and I remembered why I have not been in years and am virtually certain I will never go back.

@pachyderm pro - There are three USA facilities with jaguarundi. Cat Haven has them currently off exhibit due to construction next to the on-show exhibit of one of them. Feline Conservation Center has two (born at Cat Haven) in terrible bland cages, though they are on exhibit. Bear Creek Feline Center in Florida has some as well. A zoo in New Jersey (I forget the name) has a new exhibit for them but does not yet have the cats.

I stayed at California Wolf Center longer than snowleopard (as I had no desire to follow him to see rescued macaws on a stick). I will write a review on their thread in the next couple days. The drive out on Highway 79 (which I have never done before) is incredibly scenic and even though it was mid-day I saw wild turkeys and a gray fox. Now I am off to bed as I have to go to work tomorrow while snowleopard continues to frolic around the Golden State.
 
...much different than my mattress in the minivan that I have been sleeping on for most of this trip (more on that another day, although I’m sleeping great and saving more than a thousand dollars).

Yikes! I'd assumed you were staying in cheap motels (although "cheap" seems to be a relative term in California; I didn't realise you were doing the full hobo thing! When you say "minivan" what do you mean? is it a Scooby Doo style camper van (in which case, not so bad) or is a people mover car with a mattress stuffed in the back (in which case, rather you than me)? And where are you parking up to sleep each night? I hope it's in camp sites - not just for the access to "restrooms" but also because we have all seen enough films to know that the USA is crawling with psychopaths who would gladly you pull you from your van in the middle of the night, and beat you to death.
 
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Yikes! I'd assumed you were staying in cheap motels (although "cheap" seems to be a relative term in California; I didn't realise you were doing the full hobo thing! And where are you parking up to sleep each night? I hope it's in camp sites - not just for the access to "restrooms"

I will admit that in past years, on my extensive trips through Europe (to see zoos), I've many times ended up sleeping in the back seat of my rented compact car. Since I'm 6'4", that meant I was bent over, sleeping in the fetal position, and many of these nights were in October or even November, so it was quite cold. But I'm a big believer in using sleeping pills while traveling, and I have a warm sleeping bag, so I slept great each time! What I missed most on these "hobo" nights was a hot shower in the morning. I was doing this in European rest stops ("Services"), which as Sooty hints at, they are safer than doing this at USA rest stops. I no longer do this as I've found that sleeping in youth hostels is almost as cheap and far more comfortable.
 
@sooty mangabey - I saw the setup and it is the latter of your two descriptions: a people mover type minivan with the back seats removed and a mattress shoved in there (which takes up the entire van except for the front seats). I have no idea where he parks (and will be curious to see the answer). Anyway at least one night he had a nice hotel, as Humphreys (which I got a deal through my high level Expedia membership) upgraded me to a marina view suite which had a separate living room, full kitchen (which we didn't use), separate bedroom (with two beds as snowleopard and I are close but not that close) and a bathroom with two sinks. The grounds also feature a koi pond with a pair of macaws above (one blue & gold and one either scarlet or hybrid).
 
Wow! im genuinely amazed at the devotion of ANyhuis and S.L. to the cause...."greater love hath no man than he will forgo the comforts of even a modest hotel to espy animals in cages".Its all down to money i presume....unless you guys are masochistic(each to his own i suppose).
 
Wow! im genuinely amazed at the devotion of ANyhuis and S.L. to the cause...."greater love hath no man than he will forgo the comforts of even a modest hotel to espy animals in cages".Its all down to money i presume....unless you guys are masochistic(each to his own i suppose).

Funny! "greater love"! You are right that money is the main factor, but related to that, money and marriage -- that is the need to be able to justify the expenses to one's wife. For me, it's a lot easier to justify my travel expenses to my wife if I'm not spending $60 to $100 (or more) per night on hotels.For a trip like SnowLeopard's, that would add up to over $3,000 for the whole trip. By saving money elsewhere, I've been able to get my wife's blessing on travels to places like Singapore, Australia, Russia, and the Canary Islands! (But on the side, I would tell you that my wife is glad I'm not sleeping in the back of my car anymore, as she really worried about me doing that!)
 
Well i can honestly say that zoos cost me my marriage(something im quite happy about incidentally)..but i can understand the need to keep a partner onside if a person wishes to remain in that relationship.Other than that,zoowatching abroad - its a damned good way of getting rid of somebody!
 
Well i can honestly say that zoos cost me my marriage(something im quite happy about incidentally)..but i can understand the need to keep a partner onside if a person wishes to remain in that relationship.Other than that,zoowatching abroad - its a damned good way of getting rid of somebody!

OK! I understand. But neither SnowLeopard nor I are looking to "get rid" of our spouses (I've met his wife and she's a keeper.) Also, in both of our cases, our wives are busy taking care of small children (he has 4, I have 1 at home), so they are especially anxious to have us back home, helping with the kids.
 
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