DAY 29: Sunday, August 11th (4 zoos)
Today was almost the longest day of the entire trip, as I yet again plunged ahead in driving around to smaller zoos. I keep having the mindset that I’m in Europe for only the second time in my life (Italy and Switzerland in 2003 being the first) and therefore I feel as if I need to pack my days. I do take my time, as I’ve only been in a rush around a zoo twice the entire trip. There was Fauna Flakkee, a small Dutch zoo that I was enjoying except for a pelting rainstorm, thunder and lightning that hastened my exit. The only other occasion was Aquazoo Dusseldorf, where I had an hour and a half but felt that I could have used at least 30 more minutes. This all brings me to my 4.5 hours at Walsrode, which is probably a sacrilegious time frame for many zoo enthusiasts and my honesty with my times will likely result in a few raised eyebrows at what is either the #1 or #2 ‘bird zoo’ on the planet…with apparently only Jurong close. So, 4.5 hours at Walsrode but a great 4.5 hours. Deal with it.
Zoo/Aquarium # 85: Weltvogelpark Walsrode (Walsrode, DE)
With 270,000 annual visitors and a threat of closure a decade ago, it would have been a real shame to lose this fantastic, avian-themed zoo. It is almost unbelievable that if one goes back 50 years, then Walsrode had a million annual visitors in the late 1960s. Set on 89 acres/36 hectares, although not all of that land is filled with exhibits, this park has a tranquil setting and I saw more elderly visitors then at any other zoo on this entire trip. Much like Vogelpark Avifauna’s hotel, there is something about puttering around a vast bird garden that brings out the geriatric form of the species homo sapiens. The zoo’s website states that there are 650 species and I know that total specimen numbers range past 4,000 birds. If I was just in the Berlin/Hannover/Walsrode area and had a handful of zoos on my itinerary, I might well have spent all day here. But, putting it into the context of a month-long jaunt that was now reaching its 85th milestone, Walsrode had a tremendous variety of birds that I’d already seen on dozens of occasions and in truth I saw many far superior aviaries at loads of other zoos that dwarfed the Walsrode exhibits. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed dodging old people and making my way around the park and I can absolutely see why some zoo nerds consider Walsrode to be one of the pinnacles of the zoo world. The facility also caters to families, with a large playground area directly inside the front entrance.
I puttered along past a variety of bird exhibits, with highlights including Western Capercaillie, Wattled Crane, Saddle-billed Stork, European White Stork and Snow Goose, before the trail winds down to a long, narrow, basic exhibit for Humboldt Penguins. There are Siberian Cranes and then a series of aviaries for birds of prey such as Milky Eagle Owl, Southern White-faced Owl, Brown Wood Owl, Ashy-faced Owl, Spectacled Owl (including a specimen with very light brown feathers – almost leucistic), Buffy Fish Owl, Southern Boobook and Oriental Bay Owl. It’s not every day that you see some of those owls! There are then a series of ponds, with species such as American Pelican, Humboldt Brown Pelican, Dalmatian Pelican, Great White Pelican, Australian Pelican, Great Cormorant, Cuban Flamingo and Chilean Flamingo. All of these pools are filled with extremely stinky birds, in environments that are nicely designed but nothing spectacular.
Up next is ‘
Uhu-Burg’, which is essentially ‘Owl Castle’ in English. Here can be found Common Raven, Griffon Vulture, Eurasian Eagle Owl, Common Barn Owl, Great Grey Owl, Snowy Owl, Little Owl, Black Kite, Common Kestrel and American Kestrel all found in what appears to be an abandoned castle. At this point in my visit I’d already seen 13 owl species, 5 pelican species and a range of other birds in smaller aviaries, thus showcasing the diversity and quantity of birds at this specialist zoo. Some other species down the trail include Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Yellow-faced Myna, Gilded Barbet, Bearded Barbet in tiny aviaries, with Brown Kiwi not showing themselves in a darkened side exhibit. I think that I probably went 0-4 or 0-5 in terms of kiwi sightings on this trip, which is par for the course as kiwis + zoo visitors = poor display animal at seemingly every zoo.
There are Greater Flamingos and then a series of 5 bird-of-paradise aviaries that are so densely planted that locating a bird is an achievement even with repeat visits to the area. King in one exhibit, Raggiana in two, and then 12-wired in two are the three species on-show to the public in those five aviaries. There is an Ostrich, Marabou Storks and Northern Ground Hornbills all together in an exhibit with a red-brick house (as the indoor quarters) that looks as if it belongs on a German farm. There is a Shoebill Stork exhibit that is easily the smallest I’ve seen for that species in the 5 or 6 zoos where I’ve watched Shoebills. In fact, my review so far has words like ‘small’ and ‘tiny’ used, as one thing that struck me about Walsrode is that plenty of the aviaries are not very large. I’m aware that at some zoos a great deal of breeding success has been achieved with enclosures that are cozy for the inhabitants, but the single biggest shock for me at Walsrode was the seemingly endless list of aviaries that really are nothing special in terms of size. The reason the park has 650 bird species is that very few of those birds have spacious surroundings. This is a conversation that I had with
@jwer later in the trip, and he’s a big fan of Walsrode, but time and time again the park has average-sized or smaller aviaries than normal. It’s not necessarily a complaint, but the ‘wow factor’ at Walsrode is only truly seen during the bird show.
I sat and watched the
Bird Show and it was easily the best bird show that I’ve ever witnessed in a zoo. I was apprehensive at the building as there is an ultra-cheesy video on a gigantic screen, then smoke emerging from the bushes as a pretend plane crash occurs…then the host emerges with a Kea on his gloved hand. Things got better from there, with a Barn Owl, Eurasian Eagle Owl, Andean Condor, a whole bunch of African Grey Crowned Cranes (what an ending!), various macaws and a few other birds all presented with glitz and glamour. A bit more ‘Las Vegas-style’ than I was expecting from a German vogelpark, but nonetheless very entertaining and I'm glad that I saw it.
The ‘
Fasanerie’ (Pheasantry) is a zoo nerd’s paradise, with a very lengthy line of more than 30 aviaries that are nicely-planted and full of rarities. I really enjoyed this part of the park, although the aviaries are all 8 feet tall and therefore do not offer up a great deal of height. Some of the larger birds, such as hornbills, are a bit constrained for space, although I’m sure that most zoo enthusiasts don’t care because there are easy views of all the inhabitants. I’ll not provide a full species list, but I will list some of the more notable birds found here: Maleo, Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Kagu, Wattled Guan, Horned Guan, White-crested Guan, Golden-headed Quetzal (two exhibits), Cuckoo Roller, Black-casqued Hornbill, Sulawesi Hornbill, Rhinoceros Hornbill, Northern Rufous Hornbill, Wrinkled Hornbill, Knobbed Hornbill, Great Hornbill, Toco Toucan, Channel-billed Toucan, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Crested Myna, Pink-spotted Fruit Dove, Wonga Pigeon, Bare-faced Curassow, Helmeted Curassow, Giant Coua, Chestnut-backed Scimitar-babbler, Piapiac, Bornean Crested Fireback and Australian Brush Turkey. Essentially it is an amazing lineup of species in modest surroundings. The birds are all easy to spot, are fun to locate, all look to be in splendid condition, but the aviaries are all of average-to-small in size. Zoo nerds can make ticks in their notebooks and there is little to no effort in finding the birds in their aviaries.
There is a Tropical House called
Paradies-Halle (Paradise Hall) that is basically a series of yet more 8-foot high aviaries that in some cases are fairly lengthy and there are at least two-dozen aviaries here. Yet more Golden-headed Quetzals are found inside, with a trend all over the park of some species in multiple aviaries in different locations. Other species include Pygmy Falcon, Wattled Jacana, Fire-tufted Barbet, Spangled Cotinga, Writhed Hornbill, Jungle Bush-quail and tons of others. There is a free-flight aviary with at least a dozen species, but the visitor path snakes along one side of the area and is so narrow that it restricts the opportunity to stop and glance around at birds because by doing that it could hold up the line in the congested area. At the entrance to this building is
Toowoomba, one of those feeding stick Rainbow Lorikeet/Budgrigar walk-throughs.
Moving north towards the zoo’s restaurant, there are plenty of aviaries all along the trail with innumerable species on display to the public. It becomes almost the norm to see a Kagu once a visitor passes the third aviary for the species in the span of maybe 30 minutes. More quetzals? Boring! Another couple of toucans or hornbills? Yawn. I’m teasing here, as it really is staggering to see the quantity and diversity of birds at this park even for someone who has seen a thousand bird species in the past month. There is the
Pukara building with its small aviaries with species such as Edwards’ Fig-parrots, Orange-breasted Fig-parrots, Desmarest’s Fig-parrots, Chestnut-eared Aracaris, Pale-mandibled Aracaris, Curl-crested Aracaris and many others one-after-the-other. The
Jungle Trail building is a large Tropical House with a steamy, humid jungle inside packed with a plethora of bird species. Some are free-ranging while others are in the standard vogelpark aviaries, and the species list here includes Great Blue Turaco, Violet Turaco, Thick-billed Euphonia, Long-wattled Umbrellabird, Capuchinbird, Yellow-knobbed Curassow, Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Wattled Jacana, Snowy-headed Robin, White-naped Pheasant Pigeon, Great Kiskadee and White-throated Kingfisher. I enjoyed this building and it was nice to see birds in a free-flight aviary instead of a long line of standard little aviaries.
One of the real highlights of Walsrode is the
Kolibri-Haus (Hummingbird House), because how often are hummingbirds showcased in any zoos around the world? San Diego Zoo and Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum are two examples of zoos that I’ve visited with free-ranging hummingbirds in brilliant exhibits, but this is Walsrode and so the visitor sees a row of small aviaries instead. Green-tailed Trainbearer, Sparkling Violet-ear and a third species (Amazilia Hummingbird) are flitting around and entrancing visitors. I should give Walsrode some credit here in terms of exhibit design, as the aviaries are nicely-furnished, have feeders to entice the birds to eat and display natural behaviours, and there are informative signs, a video playing and a peek into the kitchen that all adds up to a terrific building. Just like the bird-of-paradise section, there are 3 species spread between 5 aviaries. I course I didn't go upstairs, but of note is that there are more than 20 off-show hummingbird aviaries directly over the heads of visitors.
Up next is a walking loop that takes visitors past some larger species. There are enclosures side-by-side for Dwarf Cassowary and Northern Cassowary, almost Berlin-style, then other species such as Bateleur Eagle, Steller’s Sea Eagle, Bald Eagle, White-tailed Sea Eagle, Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, Palm-nut Vulture, Bearded Vulture and Andean Condor. I’ve really grown to appreciate birds of prey on this 95-zoo jaunt through Europe, and zoos in this part of the world always seem to have loads of eagles, owls and vultures. North American zoos also have many eagles and owls, and especially hawks, but there is not the range of diversity on-show and North American zoos are poor when it comes to vultures. Often zoos don’t have any vultures whatsoever, or there are some on African Savannas with clipped wings. European zoos have fully-flighted vultures in large aviaries and in some cases (such as at Berlin Tierpark, Artis Royal Zoo in Amsterdam, or Munster Zoo) the vulture aviaries are some of the highlights of an entire zoo.
A small lake has a looping trail around it, again with larger birds on display such as Black-necked Cranes, Sarus Cranes and many storks and various species of ibis. The
Freiflughalle (Free-flight Hall) is a substantial walk-through aviary with the same regular species seen at a myriad of other zoos, except here the birds all line up along the path as if being called to attention as there are feeding machines and I saw at least 40 people feeding the birds. The aviary was packed and obviously it is a favourite part of the zoo for many visitors, but Walsrode tumbled down a notch in my estimation when I witnessed mass feeding on an epic scale. How is that encouraging natural behaviours in the birds? There is a nice Inca Tern aviary at the very end, again with a wave machine that I’ve now seen a half-dozen times for birds or pinnipeds and it is fantastic. C’mon North American zoos, get some wave machines as they will revolutionize your exhibits!
There is yet another building, this one called the
Papageienhaus and here are macaws, cockatoos and various other parrots. The exhibits are all of a standard size, with beautiful rock-work as backdrops that is aesthetically appealing. Red-tailed Black Cockatoos, Palm Cockatoos, Hawk-headed Parrots, Pesquet’s Parrots, Red-fronted Macaws and many other species are located here.
There are many standard-sized aviaries all over the grounds of Walsrode, and days later my appreciation for the array of species that I saw grew. I enjoyed the bird show immensely, loved seeing a long list of rarities that would make many zoo nerds insanely jealous, and there is much to recommend at this German bird park. However, I feel that Walsrode is truly missing a ‘wow’ moment, whether that is a huge walk-through aviary with 100 species and a crashing waterfall, or a massive series of eagle aviaries seen via a mountainous boardwalk, or something else that can be placed front and center on all of their posters, maps and guidebooks (of which I purchased a brand-new one). Walsrode is a place that I’m glad I added to my itinerary and I thoroughly enjoyed my visit. I was there long enough to be able to conjure up a 13-paragraph review that mentions approximately 125 species…but there are so many more at this bird zoo that it truly boggles the mind. Many of the species are behind-the-scenes, as showcasing 4,000 total specimens to the public would be a daunting task, but mention should also be made of this zoo’s grounds. The rhododendrons in bloom, the pruned foliage, the historic windmill, etc., all add to the atmosphere of this zoo.
I then drove an hour west to my next stop.
Zoo/Aquarium # 86: Tierpark Petermoor (Bassum, DE)
This is a very small zoo that has free admission, free parking, a small entrance gate and an actual zoo map posted on a wall of one of the few buildings on the site. The star attraction is a Ring-tailed Lemur exhibit, with the primates able to be viewed both indoors and on their island. There is a long overhead tunnel that stretches from the indoor quarters to the tiny island, but the outdoor section does include some tall trees that the lemurs were accessing on my visit. The zoo then consists of a single loop around a lake, with exhibits for Llamas, Rheas, Grey Crowned Cranes, Axis Deer, Blackbuck, Parma Wallabies, Black Swans, a petting farm zone, at least half-a-dozen aviaries with pheasants and small, colourful birds, and then I was back at the lemurs. I saw the whole zoo in less than 30 minutes. One note of interest is that the zoo’s website makes it seem as if the facility was founded in 1967, then became the first ‘Ark Park’ in Germany in 2007, and then received EU approval as a zoo as recently as 2015. That's interesting...
I then drove 40 minutes south to my next zoo.
Zoo/Aquarium #87: Tierpark Strohen (Wagenfeld, DE)
This place was much larger than Tierpark Petermoor, my 30-minute free zoo. At Tierpark Strohen, it was an hour and a half visit with some surprisingly large species on display. There’s a huge gravel parking lot and the zoo is divided into half by the main road. The southern half begins with a large playground area and the whole section resembles a typical German ‘wildpark’ as the trail takes visitors into dense woodland with European species along the path. An aviary for Barn Owls, a massive Fallow Deer paddock, Tarpan, Eurasian Lynx, Eurasian Eagle Owls, Snowy Owls, Mouflon, Sika Deer, Arctic Foxes and Nutria in a series of dull, unimaginative exhibits. Some of these exhibits probably date from the zoo’s 1959 opening. Speaking of that, I read that this year was indeed the zoo’s 60th anniversary and the zoo receives more than 100,000 annual visitors.
I then crossed the road to the second part of the zoo and here was to be found some surprising exotics. A paddock for Llamas and Rheas gives way to a nice exhibit for Ring-tailed Lemurs, then Lowland Tapirs, Squirrel Monkeys, a Rock Cavy exhibit, a smallish White-handed Gibbon enclosure, decent exhibits for Servals and Cheetahs, plus an American Flamingo/Hawaiian Goose pond. Paddocks for Sitatunga, Plains Zebra, Ostrich, Kulan and Bactrian Camel are all sandy, much like the visitor path, and then I came across five Pumas! I’m not sure how many times I’ve seen this species on the trip, if at all, but here there were a couple of adults in a smallish outdoor yard and then a mother and two very young cubs (maybe two months old?) in a covered area. Amur Tigers are next door, giving this zoo 4 cat species in total. I saw my daily does of Bennett’s Wallabies and Emus, Axis Deer, Blackbuck, Grey Crowned Cranes and then two more surprises: Red Lechwe and Banteng.
If the shock of seeing species such as Puma, Kulan, Red Lechwe and Banteng at a rather obscure little German Tierpark wasn’t enough, I rounded a corner and saw Europe’s smallest Asian Elephant exhibit. There is a barn with apparently no doors, so the stalls are open to the elements, a small cement slab and then a sandy section off to the side that is just barely large enough for the two elephants at this zoo. This part of the zoo is very farm-like in appearance, with many barns and stables that house at least 50 or more horses. The zoo apparently has around 200 hectares/500 acres and part of the grounds is set aside for an Arabian Horse ‘stud farm’ with many expensive male horses for sale. There is a small show-ring inside one of the barns, with posters up showing elephants being led through the zoo with people all around them…no protected contact here! I feel as if the two Asian Elephants must certainly have a larger, grass-filled enclosure besides the concrete slab, and I'd be curious to find out the answer. There are grassy fields beyond the barn, but those were filled with horses while the elephants walked back and forth on cement. What an extraordinary little zoo!
I then drove just over an hour south to my 4th and final zoo of the day.
Zoo/Aquarium # 88: Olderdissen Zoo (Bielefeld, DE)
I arrived at my last stop of the day rather tired from going around Walsrode, then Petermoor and then Stohen, and so I was kind of hoping for a '30-minutes and then I’m outta-here' zoo. Alas, in a good way, this zoo was much larger than anticipated and I was here for close to two hours (and in almost pitch-black conditions at the very end) until I left very late in the evening. This is very close to a typical German ‘wildpark’ except that the exhibits are much more zoo-like in appearance and since the place is open 24 hours per day, I was able to squeeze in this 4th zoo even though I had a day that evoked memories of my Berlin Tierpark experience. Olderdissen Zoo has a really nice main area with many German-style buildings that are white with dark brown/black lines, and an impressive animal collection. The whole place is free of charge and for a two-hour zoo to have no admission fee and be very enjoyable was a delight…even with my tired legs as this zoo has many steep slopes that would not be ADA-accessible in North America. The whole zoo is 16 hectares/40 acres in size.
Mammal Species List (22 species): Wisent, Mouflon, Alpine Ibex, Chamois (two exhibits), Red Deer, European Fallow Deer, European Wild Boar, European Brown Bear, Grey Wolf, Silver Fox, Eurasian Lynx, European Beaver, Nutria (two exhibits), European Badger, Raccoon, Raccoon Dog, Wolverine, European Otter, European Pine Marten (M
atres des pins), Beech Marten (
Martes foina), Domestic Ferret and Alpine Marmot.
Bird Species List (partial list): Tawny Owl, Barn Owl, Ural Owl, Eurasian Eagle Owl, Long-eared Owl, Little Owl, Snowy Owl, Common Buzzard, Peregrine Falcon, Common Kestrel, Black Kite, Western Jackdaw, Golden Pheasant, Common Pheasant, Tenebrosus Pheasant, Barbary Dove and Indian Peafowl.
Olderdissen Zoo, even at the end of an 11-hour day of ‘zoo-ing’, was a real highlight. The European Brown Bear/Silver Fox exhibit is quite spectacular, the Wolverine exhibit is one of the best I’ve ever seen for that species, the Chamois and ibex yards are steep slopes, and the European Pine Marten, Beech Marten and Domestic Ferret exhibits all together in a row is very interesting in terms of comparing the sizes of the species. The zoo has them all in a big barn, divided into three, and there are tractors, wheelbarrows and other farmyard ‘junk’ as part of the exhibits. It doesn’t all work, but Hannover would be proud!
Another fantastic day done on the greatest zoo trip that I’ll ever venture on in my entire life.