The conclusion!
Day 8
This was a bit of a wasted day, unfortunately the train times didn’t help me much and with a 1000 checkout time from my hotel I was stuck mooching around Poznan for a couple of hours before getting the train in the afternoon, which arrived in Warszawa after 1700, effectively stopping from me doing much. Still, the time to reflect on my trip so far was very useful, though I do wish I’d written more notes…
Day 9
I had one appointment for once here, Warszawa zoo. This was to be my final significant zoological attraction and I was determined to do a full day there. The map is wonderful, showing off a beautiful geometric design to all of the enclosures with lots of paths running at 90 degrees to each other. Unfortunately, this is not quite the case on the ground, and there are some very odd paths around which don’t really go anywhere. Still, what is refreshing, and something that as a Brit used to tiny city zoos, is how large Warszawa zoo actually is. At 40ha (according to Sheridan) it is far larger than London (15ha), Budapest (10.8ha), Vienna (17ha) or Madrid (22ha) and as such really has the space to allow for well sized enclosures for most of the inhabitants. Despite this most of the ungulate and carnivore enclosures aren’t exactly vast (though there are very few which are genuinely undersized, and most are larger than average) and a decent chunk of the space is taken up by various buildings not directly associated with animal care, plus lots of landscaping.
I wasn’t hugely impressed by a couple of the newer developments at the zoo, namely the hippo enclosure which was on the small size for a modern exhibit (though still larger than many I’ve seen) and the aquarium next to the monkey house which was very pretty, but too small to really scratch a fish-itch. These both looked expensive, but didn’t really deliver (the current trend in modernising with touch screen displays isn’t one I’d like to continue). I would much rather the money had been spent, in both cases, on larger exhibits, but without so much architectural flair. The ape house and elephant enclosures seemed pretty good however from what I can remember. The reptile and amphibian house was also relatively modern and very well presented in a fairly small space, though the inhabitants certainly didn’t suffer from small enclosures.
Highlights from the ungulate collection included the excellent, side by side pairing of both bison species, the musk ox, and combined Sichuan takin & Chinese goral enclosure [I did see a note from LaughingDove that this was a takin/blue sheep enclosure but I can’t see any blue sheep pics in my album and the map implies they are seperate… can anyone clarify for my fading memory?!]. None of these set the world alight in terms of quality or display, but represented very solid exhibits which would stand up anywhere.
The biggest disappointment for me came pretty early on in the polar bear enclosure, which fits an unfortunately all too familiar trend of being too small, though beautiful in a geometric concrete sort of way. Still, it’s simply too small for a big active carnivore and really needs to be revamped for new inhabitants and the bears moved elsewhere.
The big highlight of the collection is the birds, in particular the bird house itself. This is a gorgeous exhibit with multiple outdoor-only enclosures surrounding the central building (and hosting a range of rarities in nice exhibits), plus a variety of indoor enclosures inside the main building, and a surprisingly large walk-through aviary. Each enclosure is themed, my favourite being, quite unexpectedly, a brilliant exhibit for European farmland birds with turtle doves, rosy starlings, hoopoe & domestic chickens. The walk through is the other highlight, having a relatively small walk way, but two stories of space for the birds, and a ton of species in there, many of whom are only interested in revealing themselves after plenty of peace and quiet which means patience really is a virtue if you want to see some of the shyer species. I think I spent about a third of my whole visit in this enclosure alone, it really is great.
Warszawa ended up as being a very good zoo, but not quite as good as hoped. Though certainly the best bird zoo on my trip, I’d prefer to visit Poznan Nowe, Ostrava or Wroclaw again as I feel the direction these zoos were moving in was simply more interesting. Warszawa’s bird house is one of the nicest I’ve been to, but the rest of the zoo simply doesn’t reach similar highs, despite significant amounts of money being spent on renovations.
Day 10
This was my final day in Poland, and with a late-night flight I had most of the day to enjoy Warszawa itself. I couldn’t not do something natural history-related however, so I ended up finding the rather wonderful natural history museum in the centre (the Museum of Evolution of Polish Academy of Sciences to be precise). Despite the lack of English translations for the text, anyone with an interest in zoology, geology or palaeontology should be able to figure out roughly what’s happening, though the specifics eluded me. Google Translate’s camera function however does a pretty good job of translating the text.
The museum houses a series of small exhibitions, the largest of which is focussed on palaeontological expeditions into the Gobi desert of Mongolia, and includes mounted skeletons of
Opisthocoelicaudia and
Tarbosaurus, the second being mounted both in a modern, tail-erect pose, and one in the old-school kangaroo-pose – plenty of interp around both skeletons helps explain why scientists considered both of these poses to be the at the cutting edge and why opinion can, and should, change.
Other exhibits focus on Triassic herps from nearby Opole, the oldest known frog from Krakow and a number of sets of dinosaur footprints from the Świętokrzyskie Mountains in south-eastern Poland. My favourite section was probably the one describing the discovery and description (only in 2018) of
Lisowicia, the largest non-mammalian synapsid around the size of an elephant with erect limbs, found in southern Poland.
The newest large exhibition (which apparently was incomplete) was on the evolution of life in the sea, which included plenty of invertebrate fossils, as well as models of ichthyosaurs, and some wonderful large posters depicting the evolution of groups like trilobites, brachiopods and graptolites. If the posters had been available for general for general sale I’d have snapped them up, alas the gift shop only had kids toys and a fantastic library section, though inevitably the only language these were offered in was Polish.
The Museum of Evolution was a fun experience for a couple of hours, though I lingered with Google Translate in a few places and I’m sure most people wouldn’t spend that long here. The museum is also part of the public entrance to the Muzeum i Instytut Zoologii (Zoology Museum) most of which is closed to the public (though I found photographs apparently from tourists in apparently public galleries containing taxidermied birds). Unfortunately I couldn’t find any English speakers to try and clarify the situation; though the Palace of Culture and Science is a bit of a tourist destination, the zoological side of things definitely Isn’t so I wasn’t exactly surprised.
After wandering off elsewhere I ended up finding another zoological collection completely by accident. Though content with the Museum of Evolution being an excellent end to my journey through Poland, I was certainly not going to pass up another collection.
After going into a somewhat more public side of the Palace, I saw a huge model spider sitting in a corner away from the bustling crowds. Pushing my way over to it, I found that a small wing of the Palace had been given over to a collection of spiders. Though I could only see a bit of the exhibition, I was suitably intrigued to pay the exorbitant entrance fee and hop on in. How exorbitant? Well I was done after an hour including lots of revisits to various spiders and it cost more to enter than Wroclaw.
Inside were a series of nicely presented vivaria for a variety of spiders (though most were Theraphosid bird eaters) and scorpions, each giving information about the species on show. I’ve given the list below, as before this is copied off my phone with no editing – spelling mistakes and a lack of genera for most species are all entirely my fault.
Phoneutria
Hetrometrus scaber
p. Regalis
l. Parahybana
X immanis
A. Genic
Cyriophagus schioedtei
E. Murinus
P. Imperator
Pamphobeteus vespertinus
H Mac
Chilobrachys huahini
Grammostola alticeps
Haplopelma longipes
Brachypelma vagans
Lasiodorides striatus
Thrixopelma ockerti
M. Robustum
G. Pulchripes
T blondi
Brachypelma albopilosum
G pulchra
P irminia
H arizonensis
Androctonus bicolor
Hadogenes bicolor
Pterinochilus murinus
O boehmi
G rosea
M balfouri
Aphonopelma chalcodes
Latrodectus mactans
Loxosceles reclusa
B smithi
B klaasi
B auratum
Chromatopelma cyaneopibes
Damon diadema
P muticus
Cyclosternum fasciatum
Highlights for me were
Androctonus bicolor (black fat-tailed scorpion, potentially lethal),
Theraphosa blondi (looked to be a real
blondi, not
stirmi),
Loxosceles reclusa (brown recluse spider, very lethal) and a
Phoneutria (Brazilian wandering spider, also very lethal). Most of the theraphosids were fairly standard fare which I could buy in about five minutes, but seeing so many of them presented in species-specific enclosures which aimed to replicate their natural habitat was really excellent.
Later in the airport I found that this was the Fascinating World of Spiders and Scorpions at Palace of Culture and Science which appears to be a toured temporary exhibit which has visited various European museums (
FASCINATING WORLD OF SPIDERS AND SCORPIONS - ARANEUS), though it’s based in Poland. I would recommend this wholeheartedly to anyone who happens to find this exhibition on tour, though as with the museum above it isn’t worth a bespoke trip to Warsaw to visit.
Poland (and a detour to the Czech Republic) was a fantastic cultural experience for me. Despite not being able to rely on English being spoken by most people I came across, getting around was still a doddle thanks to Translate, Uber and some excellent public transportation. Everyone I met was friendly and helpful, the beer and food was great, but (almost) most importantly the zoos were superb. Though a clear ranking system evolved in my head in terms of those I most enjoyed as zoological attractions, the seven zoos I visited were each memorable and all had something to commend them. Though money to fund big exhibits seems difficult to come by, clear improvements in husbandry are obviously being made in most of these. Mini reviews in summary:
Krakow – needs serious investment to clear up some of the older enclosures and improve things, but steps in the right direction and some areas (ungulates, nocturnal house) are great. Probably best in summer with birds.
Ostrava – amazing feel to the whole zoo. One or two areas to improve to get it up to standard, and some new exhibits seem like a lot of effort for a very small area, but somewhere I’m looking forward to revisiting.
Wroclaw – one more big Afrikarium-style exhibit and it might be up there in my top three European zoos. Some odd husbandry decisions but overall most balanced, encyclopaedic collection.
Poznan nowe – gorgeous, but probably at its best in Summer. Very mammal centric but an amazing collection in great enclosures, future seems bright.
Poznan stare – more of a living museum to how things used to be than a ‘real’ zoo, but still enjoyable. Don’t expect many changes in the future.
Poznan Palmarium – total freshwater fish geek heaven and well worth a visit for this and tropical plants. Unlikely to ever change and some overstocked tanks, but great fun though niche.
Warsaw – not the inner-city zoo I expected but probably the best birds of the trip. Could be improved but unlikely to get the funding without spending this very strangely on small houses.
Go visit Poland. It’s awesome.