Trip Report: Madera Canyon, Arizona

Arizona Docent

Well-Known Member
15+ year member
This is a report of a two night stay in Madera Canyon, a riparian oak woodland on the west side of the Santa Rita Mountains (Arizona, USA).
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On arrival at Santa Rita Lodge I am greeted by a group of Gould’s wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo mexicana) in the yard below the gift shop. My brother (who is already there) points out a white-nosed coati (Nasua narica). I grab a flash to fill in the shadows. After photographing it on a feeder I follow it down the slope where it climbs a tree for the perfect photo op.
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Later I am on the trail that crosses the small stream above the lodge. A mother and her photographer son are watching a utility pole that is reported to have a nest for elegant trogons (Trogon elegans). Deer on a hill above us get spooked. My view is too brief to determine if they are white-tailed or mule, but the Arizona jays (Aphelocoma wollweberi arizonae) are making a huge racket.
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The source of trouble is a bobcat (Lynx rufus baileyi) according to the other photographer. He tries to point it out but I don’t see it before it disappears into the brush.

At dark I am on my brother’s porch where he has set up a hummingbird feeder to attract lesser long-nosed bats (Leptonycteris yerbabuenae).
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As we are attempting to photograph them with flash, a ringtail (Bassariscus astutus arizonensis) walks along the porch railing within arm’s reach. He climbs up to the roof and hangs down to help himself to the nectar. He then goes into the adjacent trees where I would love to get a photo in a natural setting, but he evades us before I can get a shot.
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I am up at dawn and walk up the road. Soon I hear the distinct call of a pair of elegant trogons, stars of Madera Canyon. They are off the road among private cabins and I cannot go onto private property. They come back to the road but are so high up it’s hard to get a good angle. I am photographing frantically, following them down the road and eventually manage a winner.
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After breakfast I join several guests (with social distancing) at the hummingbird feeders next to the gift shop. I prefocus and set my exposure and rapid fire whenever one approaches. Southern Arizona, and Madera Canyon in particular, is known for a high diversity of hummingbird species. I don’t track them all but most of the birds at my particular feeder are broad-billed (Cynanthus latirostris).
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There are dozens of hummingbirds of a few different species, but the talk among the birders is that there is a berylline (Amazilia beryllina).

I do another sunset hike on the stretch where the bobcat was seen yesterday and the same mother and son are there watching for trogons. I only have my 500mm f5.6 lens with me and soon regret leaving my 70-200 f2.8 in the room. That is because I get a close view of a large, dark morph black bear (Ursus americanus amblyceps) in the streambed. He is so close that I have a hard time getting his whole body in with the long lens. The small maximum aperture of 5.6 is also problematic in the low light. I go ahead of him up the slope (finding the mother and son to join me along the way) and eventually he sits so I can get a head shot. The shot I missed in the streambed would have been the ideal habitat shot if I had my other lens.
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The mother and son inform me there is an elf owl (Micrathene whitneyi) nest in a utility pole across from the lodge (in front of the owner’s cabin). The owner Steve meets people there at dusk and spotlights the hunting owls as they perch in the adjacent tree.
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After several shots I am back at my brother’s porch for more bats. We are hoping to see the ringtail again but he makes no appearance. I spotlight eyeshine in the far end of the yard which ends up being a raccoon (Procyon lotor), but he leaves before we get a shot. My brother informs me he got it later that night.

I am up at dawn again and only have time for a half hour walk. (Regretfully I have to check out early to meet workers at my Tucson home). The only major sighting is a turkey which allows me to photograph it in a natural setting (instead of the yard with bird feeders).
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When I leave I spot a lone coyote (Canis latrans) on the road back to the freeway. Madera Canyon is a peaceful and wildlife-rich spot. The list of rare and common birds is mouth-watering, but I am not a birder so you will have to find that list elsewhere. If you are ever in Southern Arizona I would recommend spending a day or two here.
 
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Exactly one month after my last stay I am back in the same room (this time for one night). I arrive at 2:15pm but due to Covid cleaning I cannot check-in before 3pm. I decide to drive down the hill where I had seen deer. It is a group of three Coues’ white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus couesi). After a couple shots from the side of the road I backtrack to a parking area and walk down. Two are skittish but a third comes up from behind quite close to me. We walk together and she stops behind a log less than thirty feet from me. To get a better angle I sit down on the ground which makes the deer look at me with curiosity.
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After following her across the road I start to walk back to the car and notice a lone Gould’s turkey (Meleagris gallopavo mexicana). At least I think it is alone but I notice two dark spots near the base of the tree next to it. Are those part of the tree trunk or are they chicks? They are indeed chicks (or poults as I learn later), about half a dozen. The adult walks slowly and pauses and is easy to photograph but the babies move nonstop and peck the ground and are difficult to photograph. It takes at least half an hour to get a few usable shots.
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Time to check-in and enjoy a brief rest. At 5:30pm I am out on the trail that parallels the stream behind the lodge. Do I head uphill or downhill? I go downhill which ends back at the parking lot where I had my earlier luck. Nothing on the river path but when I am below the lower parking lot there are more deer (plus some higher up a hillside). There is a break in the cloud cover just before sunset and warm low angle light is making the grasses and shrubs glow. I find a friendly deer and go up around her so that she will be backlit with the grass glowing. Unfortunately she keeps going into the shade and I never get the shot I envision.

Back at the lodge I snap twilight shots of turkey vulture (Cathartes aura) silhouettes as they roost in a large tree near my room. After dinner I walk outside to see if the ringtail (Bassariscus astutus) from last time will make an appearance. Sadly he does not and the only eyeshine I see comes from deer on the hill across from the lodge.
full

I am out at dawn and there are deer again on the hill across from the lodge. I go to the river path and decide to head uphill this time. I take a trail that switchbacks up the side of the mountain and get a view of sunrise over Tucson and the Catalina Mountains in the distance. I hear the distinctive call of an elegant trogon (Trogon elegans) down towards the lodge. It’s one of the few bird calls I know. I head down to the river path and towards the lodge when I hear the call on the hillside above me. If I had stayed where I was he probably would have come to me. He is going up the canyon and I head up the trail parallel to him but he is out of sight. The trail eventually dumps back onto the road since there are private cabins along the river. He goes into the tall trees above the road in almost exactly the same spot I had photographed him last time. This time however he is too high and I never get a good look.

I am distracted by the sound of items falling out of a tree and find the cause of the disturbance. An Arizona gray squirrel (Sciurus arizonensis) is feeding on small berries. I find an angle and shoot away, spending more time than expected.
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The trogon calls are now gone and I head back down the hill. The sky is overcast which is perfect for getting detail in photographs, so I spend a bit of time at the lodge hummingbird feeders before breakfast. The most abundant species is broad-billed (Cynanthus latirostris) followed by black-chinned (Archilochus alexandri). A single rufous (Selasphorus rufus) gets chased away every time it tries to approach the feeder so I never get a shot.
full

Santa Rita Lodge is well known in the bird watching world. The hummingbird feeders (multiple) are set up at the front of a yard that drops below and has other bird feeders for songbirds. Turkeys like to scrape the ground and are found here more often than not. At different times I see a group of bachelor males and a group of females, who this morning are followed by a breeding male spreading his feathers. After breakfast and checking out I spend a bit more time here.

While I focus on hummingbirds I do grab the occasional songbird with a second camera. Perhaps the most common bird in the lodge area is the acorn woodpecker (Melanerpes formicivorus). These striking birds are more colorful than the gila woodpeckers (Melanerpes uropygialis) we see in the desert around Tucson.
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A woodpecker I have not seen before appears and I am informed it is the less common Arizona woodpecker (Dryobates arizonae).
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Two other songbirds that catch my eye are black-headed grosbeak (Pheucticus malenocephalus) and White-breasted nuthatch (Sitta carolinensis).
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I am also attracted to a pair of large carpenter bees (Xylocopa sp.) in the flowers in front of me (if anyone knows the full species name please post below). One is all black and one is yellow and black – perhaps a case of sexual dimorphism? (Again if you know please post below).
full

I head out of the canyon with my windows down and my camera ready just in case, but make no sightings other than another deer. This trip does not yield the variety of large mammals the last trip did. However the focus on smaller animals (deer excepted) teaches me to appreciate nature in all its variety. The short getaway is peaceful and the soft light is a gift for photography. Madera Canyon is less than an hour from downtown Tucson but a world away. I will be back.
 
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Exactly one month after my last stay I am back in the same room (this time for one night). I arrive at 2:15pm but due to Covid cleaning I cannot check-in before 3pm. I decide to drive down the hill where I had seen deer. It is a group of three Coues’ white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus couesi). After a couple shots from the side of the road I backtrack to a parking area and walk down. Two are skittish but a third comes up from behind quite close to me. We walk together and she stops behind a log less than thirty feet from me. To get a better angle I sit down on the ground which makes the deer look at me with curiosity.
full

After following her across the road I start to walk back to the car and notice a lone Gould’s turkey (Meleagris gallopavo mexicana). At least I think it is alone but I notice two dark spots near the base of the tree next to it. Are those part of the tree trunk or are they chicks? They are indeed chicks (or poults as I learn later), about half a dozen. The adult walks slowly and pauses and is easy to photograph but the babies move nonstop and peck the ground and are difficult to photograph. It takes at least half an hour to get a few usable shots.
full

Time to check-in and enjoy a brief rest. At 5:30pm I am out on the trail that parallels the stream behind the lodge. Do I head uphill or downhill? I go downhill which ends back at the parking lot where I had my earlier luck. Nothing on the river path but when I am below the lower parking lot there are more deer (plus some higher up a hillside). There is a break in the cloud cover just before sunset and warm low angle light is making the grasses and shrubs glow. I find a friendly deer and go up around her so that she will be backlit with the grass glowing. Unfortunately she keeps going into the shade and I never get the shot I envision.

Back at the lodge I snap twilight shots of turkey vulture (Cathartes aura) silhouettes as they roost in a large tree near my room. After dinner I walk outside to see if the ringtail (Bassariscus astutus) from last time will make an appearance. Sadly he does not and the only eyeshine I see comes from deer on the hill across from the lodge.
full

I am out at dawn and there are deer again on the hill across from the lodge. I go to the river path and decide to head uphill this time. I take a trail that switchbacks up the side of the mountain and get a view of sunrise over Tucson and the Catalina Mountains in the distance. I hear the distinctive call of an elegant trogon (Trogon elegans) down towards the lodge. It’s one of the few bird calls I know. I head down to the river path and towards the lodge when I hear the call on the hillside above me. If I had stayed where I was he probably would have come to me. He is going up the canyon and I head up the trail parallel to him but he is out of sight. The trail eventually dumps back onto the road since there are private cabins along the river. He goes into the tall trees above the road in almost exactly the same spot I had photographed him last time. This time however he is too high and I never get a good look.

I am distracted by the sound of items falling out of a tree and find the cause of the disturbance. An Arizona gray squirrel (Sciurus arizonensis) is feeding on small berries. I find an angle and shoot away, spending more time than expected.
full

The trogon calls are now gone and I head back down the hill. The sky is overcast which is perfect for getting detail in photographs, so I spend a bit of time at the lodge hummingbird feeders before breakfast. The most abundant species is broad-billed (Cynanthus latirostris) followed by black-chinned (Archilochus alexandri). A single rufous (Selasphorus rufus) gets chased away every time it tries to approach the feeder so I never get a shot.
full

Santa Rita Lodge is well known in the bird watching world. The hummingbird feeders (multiple) are set up at the front of a yard that drops below and has other bird feeders for songbirds. Turkeys like to scrape the ground and are found here more often than not. At different times I see a group of bachelor males and a group of females, who this morning are followed by a breeding male spreading his feathers. After breakfast and checking out I spend a bit more time here.

While I focus on hummingbirds I do grab the occasional songbird with a second camera. Perhaps the most common bird in the lodge area is the acorn woodpecker (Melanerpes formicivorus). These striking birds are more colorful than the gila woodpeckers (Melanerpes uropygialis) we see in the desert around Tucson.
full

A woodpecker I have not seen before appears and I am informed it is the less common Arizona woodpecker (Dryobates arizonae).
full

Two other songbirds that catch my eye are black-headed grosbeak (Pheucticus malenocephalus) and White-breasted nuthatch (Sitta carolinensis).
full

full

I am also attracted to a pair of large carpenter bees (Xylocopa sp.) in the flowers in front of me (if anyone knows the full species name please post below). One is all black and one is yellow and black – perhaps a case of sexual dimorphism? (Again if you know please post below).
full

I head out of the canyon with my windows down and my camera ready just in case, but make no sightings other than another deer. This trip does not yield the variety of large mammals the last trip did. However the focus on smaller animals (deer excepted) teaches me to appreciate nature in all its variety. The short getaway is peaceful and the soft light is a gift for photography. Madera Canyon is less than an hour from downtown Tucson but a world away. I will be back.

Both posts are amazing. Thanks for sharing.
 
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