At the beginning of last year I had to take a couple of weeks off work because my excess annual leave had to be used up, so I went on a little birding trip around the top of the North Island.
The same thing has happened again and so this time I went in the opposite direction, to the South Island. I'm from the South Island but I have been living in Wellington for several years now, thanks to covid not allowing me to go overseas, and I haven't been back to the better island since 2017. The plan for this trip was to take the ferry across to Picton (at the top of the South Island) and then bus in stages down the east coast, go to Stewart Island (at the very bottom of New Zealand), and then head back up north again.
In the following account I have put all the year-birds and year-mammals in bold so that they are easy to see, but it doesn't signify them being lifers (the sole lifer was Orange-fronted Kakariki).
Surprisingly, despite the weather on my departure day being terrible the ferry wasn't cancelled. I managed my first addition to the year-list before even setting sail, with a Spotted Shag perched on a nearby wharf. I stayed on the less-rainy side of the ferry and, with the help of a seabird key I had drawn up the night before, managed to identify most of the birds I saw on the crossing of Cook Strait. No lifers, but most species were new for the year-list, including Common Diving Petrel, Sooty Shearwater, Buller's Shearwater, Westland Black Petrel, Cape Petrel and Salvin's Albatross. A few New Zealand Fur Seals in the Marlborough Sounds went on the mammal list.
My main target for the whole trip was Orange-fronted Kakariki, one of the few mainland endemics I haven't seen yet. The last natural populations are in the mountain forests of two valleys in the Southern Alps, where I have looked unsuccessfully in years past. Since then they have been introduced to Blumine Island in the Marlborough Sounds, where they are doing well. Blumine Island is close to and technically easy to reach from Wellington, but the weather in Cook Strait is notoriously fickle and the chance of paying out for ferries and then having them cancelled meant I kept putting it off. With this trip, though, I could work it in at the start and if the weather messed up the first try then I could have a second chance on the way back north again.
Once I had dropped my pack at the hostel, I headed to the water taxi company I had been in contact with to see if I could confirm a ride for the next day. Blumine Island lacks a jetty (you jump off the boat and wade ashore) so getting onshore depends on the swell, which means that you can't get any definite answers too far in advance. Turned out the company had no boats going out the next day, despite advertising regular runs through the day, so if I wanted a boat I'd have to charter one which was much too expensive. I decided to ask at Eko-Tours instead. I knew they do take people to Blumine, but I also knew that they are just dropping you off on their way to Motuara Island and then picking you up on the way back, only giving you an hour or so there, which seemed a bit risky time-wise if you're paying quite a bit of money specifically to look for one bird. As luck would have it, they were taking some people to Motuara Island in ten minutes and they could drop me at Blumine. Excellent! The only problem was that my camera was back at the hostel because I had only gone down to the waterfront to check with the water taxi company for tomorrow. The lesson I never seem to learn - always take your camera with you!
It was a successful trip nonetheless, with amazing photo opportunities along the way of a roost of Spotted Shags and then a large group of NZ King Shags. Amazing photo opportunities if I'd had my camera, that is! On Blumine Island itself there were Weka (which I hadn't expected to add to the year list until I reached Stewart Island), and after not too long I found an Orange-fronted Kakariki. When I'd gone looking for them in the Hawdon Valley (in the Southern Alps) I had always been worried that I wouldn't be able to easily distinguish them from the Yellow-crowned Kakariki which are common there, but now having seen them they are actually a very different bird indeed.
The next day I had nothing much to do - this was the day I had planned for going to Blumine - so I took a walk around the hill tracks on the east side of town, where 95% of the birds seen were Waxeyes, big flocks of them. In the afternoon I tracked down the local White Heron which hangs out at the waterfront cafes. At least I got one year bird today.
After Picton I took a bus down to Christchurch. I was really just passing through on my way to Dunedin, but I had enough of a gap that afternoon to head out to the Pegasus Lakes where a vagrant Northern Shoveller had been reported recently. I spent ages trying to see shovellers resting around a reedy island, and waiting for birds to put their heads up to see if it was green or blue, but it was to no avail. I did add Mute Swan to the list, a rare bird in New Zealand where the wild population is centred around Lake Ellesmere but with scattered groups extending out through smaller waterways to Pegasus. Then I walked a few kilometres along the beach to the Ashley Estuary where the only new birds were some over-wintering Bar-tailed Godwits. There was no sign of the resident Black Stilt, although I did see two of his hybrid progeny.
The next morning I carried on to Dunedin. There was a half-hour stop in Oamaru which I used to make a rushed visit to see the aviaries at the botanic gardens. The gardens were further from the bus stop than expected, so it was a case of arriving, taking a couple of photos, and leaving immediately. In Dunedin I used the remainder of the afternoon to visit the Otago Museum, which I discovered has a Falklands Island Wolf on display, one of only nine known specimens!
The main reason I was stopping in Dunedin was to do a Monarch Wildlife Tour, which ran from 11am to 6pm, starting off with a drive around the peninsula's inlets and lagoons, then there was a boat trip in the harbour, and finally a visit to Penguin Place (a rehabilitation centre for local and vagrant penguins). It rained for literally the entire tour - and at the end when we got back from the peninsula to Dunedin there was no rain in the city and the streets were completely dry! The tour was great, despite the weather. There were Hooker's Sealions at Hooper's Inlet - too far away for proper photos, and sadly none were at Allan's Beach where photos would have been much more possible. From the boat trip on the harbour there were quite distant views of the colonies of Otago Shags and Northern Royal Albatrosses on the headland. On the water there were also a lot of Southern Buller's Albatrosses and various other tubenoses including a Northern Giant Petrel. Penguin Place was also great. Unfortunately I missed a couple of rescued Erect-crested Penguins by just a couple of weeks, but they still had several Yellow-eyed Penguins. Out in their reserve we also managed to see a couple of Australian Blue Penguins in a nest-box, and then a Yellow-eyed Penguin returning from the sea.
The next couple of days were non-year-bird-adding days, mostly involving getting from Dunedin to Invercargill and then Invercargill to Stewart Island. The ferry crossing from Bluff to Stewart Island was fine, but with precious few birds seen (only Southern Buller's Albatross and Sooty Shearwater). I was on Stewart Island for three days, only one of which had good weather. That one good day was (fortuitously) spent on Ulva Island where the birds were just everywhere. Flocks of birds in the trees, robins along every track; it gave a saddening impression of how amazing New Zealand's forests would have been before people came along and stripped them bare of life. Best moment of that day was coming across a large mixed flock of Yellow-crowned Kakariki, Brown Creepers, Yellowheads and Saddlebacks, a sight basically impossible to see anywhere else now because Yellowheads are vanishingly rare and Saddlebacks are extinct in mainland forests.
The only other year-bird added from Stewart Island was Foveaux Shag (the former "Stewart Island Shag" has been split between Otago Shag and Foveaux Shag, which look really similar but genetically are not as close as expected, with one of them being more closely related to the Chatham Island Shag than to the other one). There was always a small group on one of the rocky islets in the bay by town, but at a distance which meant the photos were more record-shot than anything - hopefully I can crop one into something useable. I did see a few others very close from boats but they always dived before I could get a photo, or the light was too low. Very frustrating.
I also didn't manage to find any kiwi. I spent hours out at night at Traill Park, a favoured kiwi-spotting area which officially is a rugby field but clearly is really a marshland turning into a swamp. The weather certainly didn't help! I skipped the final night because of hail. I've seen Stewart Island Kiwi before, about 15 years ago now, but it still would have been nice to see one again.
I had half a day in Invercargill, visiting Queens Park for the aviaries where I got hailed on twice, and then the nearby estuary where the weather alternated between storm and gale and I got hailed on a third time. It was pretty miserable.
Next was back to Oamaru, where the skies were clear. The Oamaru Backpackers were much further from the bus stop than it looked on the map, but fortunately very close to the harbour. From the window of my room I could see the Otago Shag colony on the old wharf! The wharf had three colonies spaced along its length, first Spotted Shags, then Red-billed Gulls, and finally Otago Shags. Naturally the ones I wanted to photograph were the furthest away, although still much closer than the colonies from the boat in Dunedin, and very much closer than the distant Foveaux Shags I'd photographed on Stewart Island. I think I might even be able to crop some half-decent images from these shots.
Oamaru is famous for its Little Blue Penguins. Most of the colony is behind a wall so you have to pay to see them when they come ashore at night. However they also come up at various other spots along the shore and I got good views of them for free (as it should be). Quite recently genetic studies showed that the New Zealand Blue Penguins and the Australian Blue Penguins are quite distinct, and that the populations in Otago are actually Australian birds which colonised a few hundred years ago. There (of course) is debate as to whether the genetic differences amount to them being separate species or not, but I split them on my lists.
After overnighting in Christchurch again (where I found a Brush-tailed Possum in Hagley Park), I caught the TranzAlpine train to Arthurs Pass in the Southern Alps mountain range. When I lived in Christchurch I used to come up here all the time. The train arrived at 10.50am; check-in at the Mountain House backpackers wasn't until 2pm and the place was locked up tight. So I walked up to the Otira Valley to look for birds. Luckily I'd left my main pack back at the hostel in Christchurch so didn't have much to carry. Unusually there hadn't been any Kea around the village, but as I started up the Otira I heard one calling and looked up to watch it fly overhead. Kea on the year list as bird number one hundred. I was keeping an eye out for Chamois, which I sometimes see up here, but no luck. Also no luck with the Rock Wrens, although I didn't go anywhere near as high as I usually would when looking for them on account of snow (it's an avalanche-prone area in the winter).
There are Great Spotted Kiwi around Arthurs Pass too, the one species of kiwi I haven't seen in the wild and my absolute Nemesis Bird. I've been looking for them so many times, and never get closer than hearing them calling, or finding footprints or feathers. I actually felt really hopeful this night. After six hours of walking around in the forest in the dark I was feeling somewhat less hopeful. I did hear a couple calling distantly around midnight. Eventually I gave up and crawled back to the hostel.
Finally, back in Christchurch before my flight back to Wellington, I made a visit to one of the local zoos (Willowbank) and then to the Styx Mill Reserve next door to try for Marsh Crake. I wasn't exactly hopeful for this, given that the reports from there were a year ago, but when I got to the spot it was only about two minutes before a Marsh Crake came wandering out into the open. Pretty sure none of the photos turned out well though.
BIRDS:
76) Spotted Shag Stictocarbo punctatus
77) Common Diving Petrel Pelecanoides urinatrix
78) Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus
79) Buller's Shearwater Puffinus bulleri
80) Westland Black Petrel Procellaria westlandica
81) Cape Petrel Daption capense
82) Salvin's Albatross Thalassarche salvini
83) Black-billed Gull Larus bulleri
84) NZ King Shag Leucocarbo carunculatus
85) Weka Gallirallus australis
86) Orange-fronted Kakariki Cyanoramphus malherbi
87) White Heron (Great White Egret) Egretta alba
88) Mute Swan Cygnus olor
89) Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
90) Otago Shag Leucocarbo chalconotus
91) Northern Royal Albatross Diomedea sanfordi
92) Southern Buller's Albatross Thalassarche bulleri
93) Northern Giant Petrel Macronectes halli
94) Australian Blue Penguin Eudyptula novaehollandiae
95) Yellow-eyed Penguin Megadyptes antipodes
96) Foveaux Shag Leucocarbo stewarti
97) Yellow-crowned Kakariki Cyanoramphus auriceps
98) Brown Creeper Mohoua novaeseelandiae
99) Yellowhead Mohoua ochrocephala
100) Kea Nestor notabilis
101) Marsh Crake Zapornia pusilla
102) Redpoll Carduelis flammea
Just as a matter of interest, my previous highest year total for birds within New Zealand was 98 species in 2012.
MAMMALS:
4) NZ Fur Seal Arctocephalus forsteri
5) Hooker's Sealion Phocarctos hookeri
6) Brush-tailed Possum Trichosurus vulpecula