Monday, August 8th, 2022
Zoo/Aquarium # 16: Kolmarden Wildlife Park (Kolmarden, SE)
I have included 20 photos in this review, but I did upload a total of
140 photos into the gallery. Check them out for an extensive overview of the park.
Kolmarden Wildlife Park is the Disney’s Animal Kingdom of Scandinavia. For the one and only time on the trip, I felt a little awkward lining up at the entrance gate. There were all these families there awaiting Mickey and Goofy…errr..make that Bamses the Teddy Bear and Pelle the Cat. Out came the characters to greet everyone with hugs and smiles, in costumes that would be amazingly realistic if you were a little kid but inside there was probably a couple of sweating little Swedish teenagers cursing the heatwave. They skipped me in the lineup because they probably thought I was some kind of weirdo Swede, even though I prominently wore my Edmonton Valley Zoo hat. I wanted to yell, “I’m from Canada, eh!” but I gritted my teeth and quickly made my way into the park.
Kolmarden is a big, famous zoo that receives 750,000 visitors each year (plus another 130,000 for the separate Tropicarium attraction outside – more on that in the next zoo review) and it opened in the late 1960s. Sweden’s largest city, by far, is Stockholm and it’s about an hour and a half north of Kolmarden Wildlife Park. People come from near and far to visit this zoo, as it’s got some strong similarities to Disney’s Animal Kingdom. Both have lots of space, as Kolmarden is 150 hectares/371 acres in size, although not all the land is used. Both have ‘magical’ characters that walk around and put on shows. Both have one major ride to view animals that dominates a section of the park, and both have rollercoasters and captive animals on the same site. And lastly, both can be seen in a few hours if you are a zoo nerd that has zero inclination to ride a coaster or hang out in the kiddie amusement park area.
Let’s get the non-animal parts out of the way first.
I must be up front and admit that in some ways Kolmarden is not really my type of zoo. It’s a phenomenal zoo for a family and if I had my wife and 4 kids with me then it would likely have been a candidate to be the best zoo of the trip for them, even prompting us to stay multiple days as there is a popular hotel on site and I saw many groups of people walking from that direction first thing in the morning. Visitors are there to ride Wildfire, the second tallest wooden rollercoaster on the planet and it apparently reaches speeds of 115 km/hr. It opened in 2016 and looks amazing if you are into that sort of thing. Quite honestly, I would have to be paid a large sum of money to go on it as it looks truly terrifying. Nearby, there’s a mini rollercoaster, a boat swing thing, and other glitz and glamour items with no animals. There’s even a General Store that sells nothing but Coca-Cola products, which is cool but a little odd.
Wildlife rollercoaster:
Then there is 'Bamses World', which has all sorts of rides for young children. Anyone 10 or over would not be interested in this part of the park. I wandered through just to see what was there and it was crazy busy with kids galloping all over the place. It’s actually easy to get lost in there, because it is pure chaos and it is literally acres of rides, amusement activities and all sorts of crying and yelling toddlers. I struggled to find an exit and I’m sure that at least a few families were thinking: “Hey, isn’t that the Swedish weirdo who was alone at the entrance, and now he’s walking around in the kiddie zone. What’s up with that?” I dodged the giant Teddy Bear named Bamses, avoided Pelle the black-and-white Cat, pulled my cap down low and slunk my way out of the mayhem. Between the rollercoaster area and the Bamses World nonsense, there are acres of the zoo with zero animals and only the screams of disappointed zoo nerds.
I will say that Kolmarden Wildlife Park is better than Disney’s Animal Kingdom. Disney has the famous Kilimanjaro Safaris ride, and a world-class gorilla exhibit and some great African exhibits, and some nice ungulates at their lodge down the road, but everything else scattered across the park is simply average, with Asia, Affection Section, Oasis and Discovery Island full of typical, at times bland and smallish animal enclosures. Kolmarden is so much better. One massive factor is the setting, as the Swedish zoo has some steep trails, and one is plunged into a forest at various times throughout the grounds. There are clearings with animal exhibits, but then thick woodland and immense rocky areas that are amazing to walk around. Some of my old Geography teachers would have a blast analyzing the terrain.
Kolmarden has zero fish, insects, reptiles or amphibians, and only three on-show bird species (Ostrich, Rhea and Southern Ground Hornbill). This is yet another Scandinavian zoo that focuses almost exclusively on mammals. There are around 50 mammal species and once you strip away all the gloss from the rollercoasters and Disney-esque characters, this is a zoo filled with superb exhibits. There are animal habitats here that are world-class. Tiger World is an amazing enclosure, with a rocky backdrop and loads of viewing angles. I saw 5 Amur Tigers all together in the exhibit, which is across from a beautiful Chinese Dhole habitat that is just as impressive. Tiger World actually lists 8 tigers on the sign, but perhaps they rotate a few on and off exhibit. The park used to have a big pack of wolves and allow the public in with them for special tours, but after the death of a staff member by the wolves, and another attack on a TV presenter, that all halted and there are no more captive wolves in Kolmarden. Now that huge space, several acres in size, has been changed to a Wolverine habitat.
I saw 5 Amur Tigers in the one large exhibit:
Tiger World:
A Chinese Dhole in the center of this photo illustrates the vast size of the exhibit:
Wolverine exhibit (old wolf enclosure):
There’s a Snow Leopard exhibit that rivals Zurich (which I saw in 2003) for the best I’ve seen. An enormous mountain is in the enclosure and a lot of people were looking out from the round wall that circles the habitat. At first, it took a minute to adjust one’s eyes to the terrain, but when the two Snow Leopards moved the crowd hummed with delight. Wonderful. The Red Panda exhibit is spacious and nice, with Small-clawed Otters in with the pandas. Bush Dogs have a big space to roam, Bactrian Camels and Mishmi Takins (together) have a nice paddock, with a secondary exhibit for yet more Takins. The Brown Bear habitat is like a slice of the wild, echoing the Snow Leopard exhibit by having a gargantuan mountain as the main focus, with a waterfall to drink from. It’s dazzling, especially when chunks of frozen food was tossed into the exhibit by a keeper. Farther along is a terrifically vast South American Pampas, with Lowland Tapir, Vicuna, Capybara, Mara and Rhea wandering around. At Kolmarden, you can pay extra to go behind the scenes and pet Capybaras, and there’s also a similar option to pet and feed Meerkats. A very tall aviary, probably designed for eagles, is home to a single Southern Ground Hornbill.
If you zoom in then you will see two Snow Leopards in this photo (in an enclosure which held Polar Bears for decades):
Brown Bear exhibit:
Bush Dog exhibit:
South American Pampas:
The African Savanna is acres in size, with a lot of animals milling about in all directions. I would be at Boras Zoo the next day and the similarities are eerie in terms of the size, aesthetics and rocky wall of the Kolmarden savanna. Which one was first? Here the species list includes the following: White Rhino, Giraffe, Grevy’s Zebra, Blesbok, Addra Gazelle, Addax, Sable Antelope, Nile Lechwe, Red River Hog and Ostrich. It’s interesting to compare some of the African Savannas I’ve seen with something like Woodland Park Zoo’s example. That Seattle zoo won an AZA award for its African Savanna 40 years ago, but when I was there last (2019) there was a grand total of 8 animals on the savanna. Scandinavian zoos like Ree Park and Kolmarden don’t have 8 animals on their African Savannas, but instead EIGHTY animals and the experience of viewing them is a thousand times better. Suddenly, Woodland Park’s savanna seems quaint and old-fashioned, still pleasant but a shadow of its Nordic peers. One peril of visiting hundreds of different zoos is that some of the exhibits that I used to love are suddenly, rather sharply, put into perspective as being a bit outdated and small.
African Savanna:
Next door is an Asian Savanna, with perhaps 10 Bactrian Camels, 10 Yak and 10 Kulan all together in a large space with rocky walls around the perimeter. The African and Asian Savannas complement each other well, with the same basic layout and probably over 100 ungulates in one spot. It’s beautiful to sit and watch the herd animals and sure beats a rollercoaster any day of the week.
Asian Savanna:
There’s an ‘Aparium’, with Gorillas and Chimpanzees in exhibits that I thought could have been bigger. Renovating the space to hold only one species would be the way forward in my opinion, especially because the Gorillas recently had twins and the big Chimpanzee troop must be at least 15 animals. I didn't go inside the Great Ape House as it was closed during my visit. The White-handed Gibbons next door have a lush island that is well designed.
Chimpanzee exhibit (larger than the Gorilla space):
Kolmarden even has elephants, with a trio of Asian Elephants off to the side and down a long lane. Many visitors stopped at the top of the path and watched the elephants from a distance, but I would strongly advise zoo nerds to take the walk. There are close-up views of the zoo’s three Asian Elephants near their pool at the bottom of the winding exhibit, plus a very nice Meerkat exhibit is situated there as well. There is also access to the Pachyderm House, showcasing the indoor areas for the White Rhinos and Asian Elephants. The elephant complex isn’t the greatest, but it's probably adequate and it connects to the African Savanna side yard. The elephants are 25, 26 and 27 years old and so they still have a long life ahead of them.
Asian Elephant exhibit:
There are also Atlantic Bottle-nosed Dolphins here at Kolmarden Wildlife Park. The big Marine World complex is surrounded by shops selling food and souvenirs, plus there is Sweden’s only Dolphinarium (called ‘Hope’) and the 10-12 dolphins can be seen at any time during the day. It’s an indoor pool, surprisingly deep and with a really pretty rock backdrop. However, those rocks cut into the available space for the cetaceans and the zoo has already announced that they are phasing out the dolphins. Where they will end up is anyone’s guess, but outside of Spain it would seem that the era of European Dolphinariums is on its last legs. If Kolmarden could somehow get some Walruses as replacements then that would be fantastic. Across from the dolphin arena is a splendid pinniped pool for Cape Fur Seals, Grey Seals and Harbour Seals. The view from the top of the visitor area, with a mountainous forest backdrop, is marvelous and the pool has an incredible depth to it. Very few pinniped exhibits have such a natural look as this one.
Dolphin pool:
Pinniped pool:
The unique attraction at Kolmarden is the Safari Ride (‘Safaribanan’). It was once a drive-through safari park, but the gondolas were built instead and opened in 2011. There is a long, almost 30-minute gondola tour that takes visitors over several different habitats. There are signs stating that this is a unique attraction, but doesn’t Cabarceno Zoo in Spain have something quite similar? Oakland Zoo also has a gondola system, but in that case it is only 4 minutes up to a different part of the zoo and not quite the same thing as at Kolmarden. The Safari Gondola ride takes visitors directly over the heads of Reticulated Giraffes, Grevy’s Zebras, Common Eland, Ankole Cattle, Gemsbok, Blackbuck, Blue Wildebeest, Fallow Deer, Pere David’s Deer, Axis Deer, Alpine Ibex, American Bison, Moose, Ostriches, Brown Bears, Lions and several other species in vast, gargantuan paddocks. It’s a bit disconcerting to see a herd of Blackbuck in with the giraffes and other African animals, or some Alpine Ibex mingling with ostriches (!!), but I’m sure that the Muggles in the gondolas won’t care. Unfortunately, it is only possible to see all those species on the gondola ride.
Safari Gondola ride entrance:
The gondola is naturally like all kinds of rides in zoos. I saw a couple of Brown Bears in their vast forest of an enclosure, but just when it seemed as if they were doing something interesting I had moved on. I was above a half-dozen Moose in their huge, multi-acre paddock and when a youngster stood up to drink the gondola left him behind. It’s those frustrating moments that taint an otherwise unique zoo experience. Also, 30 minutes is a genuinely long time to be up in the air on a ride. Quite often a zoo ride will be 5 to 8 minutes in length, but I really did feel that I was up in the gondola for an extremely long time. Some folks will think trundling up above the animals in a moving contraption is the best thing ever, but it’s not really my cup of tea. Give me a walking path!
Safari Gondola ride:
Safari Gondola ride:
So, there you have Kolmarden Wildlife Park. I’ve written extensively about this zoo as I have mixed feelings about it. The entrance pathway is very steep, and it goes past exhibits for Wolverines and European Lynx in vast enclosures where it is almost impossible to see the animals. Then one can explore Bamses World, the huge kiddie zone. At that point, a visitor has gone 45 minutes of walking and seen zero exotic creatures. The same could be said about the other end of the park, with Marine World (dolphins are eventually leaving), the rollercoaster and amusement park section, and the Safari Gondola where you cannot see any animals unless you take a half-hour ride. That leaves the entire middle chunk of the zoo and it’s entirely possible to see that section in probably an hour and a half. An amazing fact is that big, famous Kolmarden Zoo, with its families booking multi-day holidays, has only
20 exhibits with exotic animals that can be seen by walking around. I ended up staying just over 3 hours, as I explored the entire park, but a zoo nerd might well be disappointed to stroll around, see 20 exhibits, then take the gondola to catch glimpses of animals in the forest.
I think that everyone should visit Kolmarden Wildlife Park and make up their own mind. One thing that's clear is that the trio of huge paddocks (African Savanna, Asian Savanna and South American Pampas) are all stunning. Tiger World and the nearby Dholes are both fantastic exhibits, the Brown Bear habitat is jaw-dropping, the pinniped pool is wonderful, and the Snow Leopard exhibit is world-class. Also, the Safari Gondola is a highlight for most visitors and was jam-packed during my visit and so I'm very fortunate that I had a gondola all to myself. Those handful of exhibits make Kolmarden a must-see attraction for a zoo nerd, but just be prepared to possibly be hugged by Bamses the Teddy Bear!