DAY 10: Thursday, July 13th
Zoo/Aquarium #14: The Living Desert Zoo/Gardens (Palm Desert, California)
This was my
2nd visit to Living Desert Zoo (2011, 2023)
This zoo is not to be confused with Living Desert Zoo in Carlsbad, New Mexico (which I have visited before!). That particular zoo is found under the letter "L" in the alphabetical ZooChat gallery, while The Living Desert Zoo/Gardens discussed in this review is located in Palm Desert, California, and is found under the letter "T" in the ZooChat photo gallery.
Living Desert Zoo opened in 1970 and is one of the very best zoos in California and I’ve visited more than 60 zoos/aquariums in the state. For the 3rd consecutive day, temperatures soared to 46 Celsius/115 Fahrenheit by the afternoon, and one thing that tainted my visit was the incessant flies that were everywhere. They were particularly awful in the African loop, as every single time I stopped to take a bunch of photos I had little flies all over my face. I didn’t linger as long as I would have liked, because when I was moving or in an area with a breeze then the flies would leave me alone. But as soon as I stopped anywhere with stale air, it was like central Australia, and I was rapidly going insane with the flies.
As an aside, I feel compelled to mention that the zoo has spent a considerable fortune in recent years, which has made this great zoo even better for visitors, but apparently has caused dissension amidst the zookeeping staff. In February, the 30 keepers voted 28 to 2 to unionize, and now there needs to be a new contract signed with the zoo to retain all of the employees or else there will be a full-scale mutiny. The zookeepers, some of them with 15+ years experience, earn on average $17.94 per hour and quite often spend months working in 46 Celsius/115 Fahrenheit conditions. There are plenty of fast-food restaurants and big chain stores (Target and Walmart being prime examples) where zookeepers could go to work and be indoors, completing less physically demanding chores, within an air-conditioned space, for more money! Some keepers have become disgruntled because the President/CEO made $518,000 in 2022, and the zoo has opened a new, $10 million Entrance Plaza (2018), the $3 million Australian Adventures (2020), the $17 million Rhino Savanna (2022), and has a
$60 million Lion exhibit and Special Event Center in the pipeline. It's all part of the
Pride of the Desert campaign to raise $90 million for the zoo. What about those zookeepers working in extreme temperatures? Can they get a couple of extra bucks per hour?
From a zoo nerd perspective, this is a terrific facility and one that receives more than 500,000 visitors per year in a city (Palm Desert) of approximately 55,000 people. Palm Springs is nearby, and this whole area is a major tourist attraction in the wintertime when temperatures are a little more bearable. For my two days in Arizona and now this day out in the California desert, for the most part I didn’t mind the scorching rays of the sun. It enabled me to stroll around zoos with far less people on the paths, an added benefit to the off-season.
On my previous visit, the zoo had two main areas and I slightly preferred North America over Africa. This time around, a dozen years later, ‘
African Safari’ is clearly the best part of the zoo, with ‘
Wild Americas’ and the new ‘
Australian Adventures’ also being quite good as well. Here is a zoo without much to complain about, if one can stomach the summertime flies and crazy temperatures for a mid-July visit.
The zoo’s new, $10 million Entrance Plaza deserves a mention as it’s a brilliant opening area with a large plaza and the usual series of guest services. The design allows the buildings to blend in with the background in terms of a beige colour scheme.
African Safari begins with the $17 million Rhino Savanna, which is a spectacular experience. Two enclosures for Banded Mongooses are excellent, leading visitors into a large cave-like tunnel for to see what appears to be two enclosures full of tunnels and tubes for Naked Mole Rats in the Life Underground zone. There’s an Animal Care & Nutrition Center, as well as two expansive, surprisingly lush habitats for the zoo’s two Black Rhinos. Waterbuck, Springbok, Pink-backed Pelicans, Great White Pelicans and Cattle Egrets share the same space. There are icons for some kind of vulture and a Klipspringer on the zoo’s paper map, but I didn’t see signs for either species. Rhino Savanna is a spectacular first exhibit complex and a really fantastic way to start off the day.
This image shows only about 60% of the first rhino yard:
Here's 50% of the second yard. See the rhino?
Naked Mole Rat tunnels stretch down the length of one wall:
Almost as stunning is the spacious, sloped habitat with Giraffe, Greater Kudu, Ostrich, Grey Crowned Cranes and Guineafowl. The large trees and immersive ‘borrowed scenery’ makes for an amazing setting. There are then smaller, satellite exhibits for African Crested Porcupines and Warthogs before visitors arrive at Village WaTuTu. Here is the zoo’s only major restaurant, which is a huge flaw if you are all the way on the opposite side of the park in Wild Americas and want a bite to eat. In this African village can be found Amur Leopards, Striped Hyenas, Dromedaries, Addax, African Spurred Tortoises, a second African Crested Porcupine exhibit, a weaver aviary and a Petting Kraal for goats. This whole area is older and not as thrilling as the rhinos and giraffes, but it still holds up well.
Giraffe/Greater Kudu/Ostrich/Guineafowl exhibit:
Amur Leopard exhibit:
Continuing down the African Safari loop, visitors can see a range of animals. One of the nation’s very best Cheetah exhibits is here, full of big tufts of grass and vegetation and I was delighted to see two of the cats. There are Grevy’s Zebras, Marabou Storks, an exhibit for 3 species (Bat-eared Fox, Cape Rock Hyrax, Leopard Tortoise), an exhibit for 5 species (Dama Gazelle, Slender-horned Gazelle, Yellow-billed Stork, Eurasian Black Vulture, African Spurred Tortoise), along with other exhibits for Speke’s Gazelles, Kori Bustards, African Wild Dogs, Meerkats, a rotational habitat with one species on display (out of Sand Cat, Black-footed Cat and Fennec Fox), Arabian Oryx and Southern Ground Hornbills. There were two mid-sized aviaries with no birds due to the threat of avian influenza, as well as some vultures off-show as well. Including the missing birds, on a normal day the entire
African Safari half of the zoo has approximately
50 species and the whole thing is of an exemplary quality.
Cheetah exhibit:
Dama Gazelle/Slender-horned Gazelle/Yellow-billed Stork/Eurasian Black Vulture/African Spurred Tortoise exhibit:
The middle section of the zoo has a few odds n’ ends, including a small Carousel, the Gecko Gulch Play Area, the air-conditioned 3,600 sq. ft. Hoover Discovery Center (which sadly no longer has an exhibit for Long-legged Ants), the Desert Plant Conservation Center and a massive, half-acre Model Train Set that has to be seen to be believed. It needs a little love and attention in places, and I’m not even a model train kind of guy, but it’s easily the largest I’ve ever come across and apparently in its prime it was an incredible sight to see the trains move around on their tracks. There is more than 3,300 feet of track, with 8 different loops, and the zoo's website states that it takes up three-quarters of an acre. This thing is huge!
Here's a tiny portion of the model train set:
Wild Americas has an enormous mountain where I saw at least 10 Desert Bighorn Sheep on the incredibly steep cliffside. It’s just behind Phoenix Zoo in terms of magnificence. One mild disappointment is that the Jaguar exhibit, which opened in 2011, has less theming these days. The two signs above the simulated mine shaft entrance door, which is inside the enclosure, have both been removed. A bit of extra fencing has been erected near the pool (outside the enclosure) and therefore the exhibit looks more like an average-sized Jaguar exhibit when before the ‘mine shaft’ idea was a neat gimmick. There’s a paddock for Peninsular Pronghorn and a series of aviaries for species such as Greater Roadrunner, Great Horned Owl, Western Screech Owl, American Kestrel, Von Der Decken’s Hornbill and Kookaburra. Those last two certainly don’t fit the ‘Wild Americas’ theme!
Desert Bighorn Sheep mountain:
@Coelacanth18
Jaguar exhibit:
White-nosed Coatis have an old-fashioned, adequate enclosure before visitors reach the Eagle Canyon loop. This is a trail that is mainly covered and at the central point is a small walk-through aviary that was sadly closed during my visit due to the threat of avian flu. Along Eagle Canyon can be seen, in this order, species such as Mexican Wolf, Golden Eagle, Bald Eagle, Chacoan Peccary, American Badger, Ringtail, Nine-banded Armadillo, Kit Fox, North American Porcupine, Bobcat, Caracal, Cougar and Channel Island Fox, along with probably a half-dozen birds in that closed aviary. The small herp building was a disappointment as all 12 terrariums held animals back in 2011 but this time around there were only 5 species present: Mexican Boa Constrictor, Common Chuckwalla, Desert Tortoise, Sonoran Desert Toad and Desert Tarantula. The remaining 7 exhibits either had signs that said “this animal is temporarily off habitat” or were simply boarded up.
Kit Fox exhibit:
North American Porcupine:
Cougar exhibit (the left viewing area is thin wire):
Farther along the trail is a nice exhibit for Coyotes, as well as the impressive Wild Prairies walk-through aviary. There are 5 species inside (Prairie Dog, Burrowing Owl, Barn Owl, Turkey Vulture, Roadrunner) and I enjoyed strolling through and spotting all of them.
Not to be missed is an off-shoot loop that leads down to the Wildlife Hospital & Conservation Center, which is an architecturally stylish building that allows visitors to wander the hallways and see the plaza courtyard with many wild hummingbirds, the various animal treatment rooms, plus the surgery and rehabilitation rooms, all through big windows. I saw some juvenile Desert Tortoises inside, plus outdoors are a series of glassed-in exhibits and I saw a Three-banded Armadillo, an Argentine Black-and-White Tegu and a Rhinoceros Iguana. Another almost hidden path (thank goodness for having a paper zoo map in my hand!) led to an enclosure for Desert Tortoises that is San Diego-style in terms of its design. There’s also a couple more closed aviaries in this general area.
Wildlife Hospital & Conservation Center:
The last part of Wild Americas is the North American Reptile House. This small building, with its carpeted floors and old-fashioned presentation style, had 29 exhibits back in 2011 but now contains only
14 exhibits and these
11 species: Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, Red Diamond Rattlesnake, Southern Pacific Rattlesnake, Panamint Rattlesnake, Speckled Rattlesnake, Rosy Boa, Bull Snake, Gila Monster, Common Chuckwalla, Long-nosed Leopard Lizard and Great Basin Collared Lizard. It’s admirable that the zoo has basically cut back its exhibits in half, and has a few enclosures with the same species, but the whole building seems outdated. To top it off, Living Desert seems to have caught the “Cheyenne Mountain Zoo” disease by showcasing herps with colourful vases, plates, pots and other junk. This zoo should really contemplate building a modern Reptile House that would offer some visitor respite from the outrageous temperatures and also be able to showcase the diversity of the desert. As things stand, it is very much a mammal-heavy collection. Which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as many excellent Scandinavian zoos that I visited last summer also were mammal heavy. All in all,
Wild Americas usually contains circa
60 species in this half of the zoo.
North American Reptile House (very small):
That leaves
Australian Adventures, which opened in 2018 and is a highly enjoyable area. There’s an Emu exhibit outside and then visitors enter an area that is entirely netted as if it’s a huge walk-through aviary. The red dust and interpretative graphics create an immersive experience, with Budgerigars and Bennett’s Wallabies free ranging in the area. Off to the side are a couple of aviaries for Kookaburras and Tawny Frogmouths, and there’s Blue-tongue Skinks and Olive Pythons in tall terrariums. Short-beaked Echidnas and Brush-tailed Bettongs are a nice surprise, again in their own exhibits, and a long, narrow habitat for Yellow-footed Rock Wallabies has textured mock-rock cliffs and the ubiquitous red sandstone Aussie appearance. There’s only
10 species in total, but this Australian area is nicely done and a popular addition to the zoo.
Yellow-footed Rock Wallabies:
Living Desert Zoo has approximately 50 species in African Safari, 60 species in Wild Americas and 10 species in Australian Adventures for a grand total of
120 species at the park. Of special note is that this zoo lists more than
20 different gardens on its map, with names such as Eastern African Gardens, Ocotillo Garden and Chihuahuan Garden. The grounds here are magnificent, with lizards and cottontail rabbits amongst the cacti and well-maintained vegetation. There is clearly an emphasis on conservation, as at all modern zoos, with Living Desert supporting a total of
33 conservation projects around the world. It’s a great zoo, one where someone can easily spend 4 or 5 hours, and perhaps even more if one goes during a cooler month with less flies foraging on human skin.
I then drove 100 miles/160 km to a city called Big Bear Lake. It was a two-hour drive and I was on my way to see a zoo that opened in November 2020.