I don't think I will review Osaka as there is plenty of material on the aquarium already on ZC and I didn't have much time in the aquarium myself so don't really have great recollection of all the aspects, particularly as it isn't laid out in a way that lends itself to reviews in my opinion. The only thing I will say was that I was given a time slot which entailed hanging around the area for three hours before being able to enter. While frustrating and a long time to wait, I appreciated that things were this way rather than either 1. letting everyone in simultaneously and having crazy congestion throughout the visit or 2. making everyone wait in line for the same period of time. It makes a lot of sense, especially since it was still congested when I got in three hours later.
So as I'm passing on Osaka (at least for now), here is the last review of this particular trip - hopefully there'll be more in about a week's time.
Ueno Zoo 19/08/23
Ueno Zoo is Japan's oldest zoo, opened in 1882. It's been through quite the rollercoaster of a history since then, with multiple massive events shaping its modern-day layout. The zoo is split in two a la London (though a bit more evenly than the latter) by a road, with the respective sections connected by a bridge. It has three entrances, so I'll start the review at the main entrance and attempt to work around the zoo systematically. Ueno is a zoo that lies somewhere between Seoul and Asa in terms of exhibitry, but the range in enclosure quality within the zoo makes it hard to judge exactly where it lies. The worst enclosures are on par with the worst at Seoul, but the best aren't nearly as good as Seoul's best. Some of Asa's animals actually do better than their counterparts in Tokyo but generally speaking Ueno is clearly a cut above Asa, at least from my point of view.
The entrance fee is, again, very cheap. An adult pays 600 Yen for entry (3.20 GBP) and a child 300 Yen. The
Annual pass for Ueno costs two and a half times less than a single adult ticket for entry to London Zoo. It's really quite the contrast with many UK zoos and even many aquariums that I visited on this trip, particularly COEX.
Entering, you hit a pretty big plaza. Ueno is one of those zoos which consists much more of exhibits within and around a large visitor walking area rather than a visitor path through animal enclosures. To your left upon entrance through the main gate is the Japanese area. This was for me one of the more exciting areas of the zoo, as it boasted a large number of native birds. 'Japanese Birds I' is the first building you enter, a semicircular house with predominantly indoor aviaries. The most prominent inhabitants of the house are a fairly large population of
Lidth's jays, an endemic and endangered species and one in whose conservation Ueno takes particular interest along with the
Svalbard rock ptarmigans right next door. The jays have two outdoor caged aviaries plus an indoors which is much better for picture-taking. Both are adequate space-wise and offer sufficient privacy. The ptarmigans might have a bit more space though in their own exhibit. Next door is a mixed aviary for a number of native small passerines. The aviary rises a fair way up out of visitor view, so most of the birds hung out up there during my visit, resulting in only being able to see two species out of a possible seven (
Japanese white eye,
Rustic bunting both seen, plus
Black-faced bunting,
Brambling,
Japanese tit,
Grey capped greenfinch and
Eurasian skylark all signed). Inside this building is also a window into a lovely garden with a pool and feeders with possible wild birds that can be seen signed. It's a nice reminder of the wildlife that frequents the zoo too, and although I only managed to spot a couple of bulbuls, some sparrows and two Large-billed crows, it was a really nice addition. Near that was an aviary for Ruddy kingfisher (ssp. bangsi) and Japanese thrush, both species which I was really pleased to see and in a decent setting with good height. Overall, I thought this was a great part of the zoo and one of the more memorable buildings for the right reasons.
You then move on to a quick path around a pagoda which takes you past a lake for
Bewick's swans and a paddock for
Japanese serows and
Ezo sika deer. The paths loops around a lovely five-story pagoda too, adding to the pleasant setting. Both exhibits were fine, although it would of course be preferable for the swans to be flighted and in a netted exhibit. The serow and deer exhibit was good, with some climbing opportunities for the more montane species and lots of privacy as the animals could retreat around the corner out of view as the deer did during my visit. Beyond that is 'Japanese Birds II', a couple of aviaries for native birds and a squirrel exhibit. One aviary houses
Brown eared bulbuls,
Pale thrush and
Chinese bamboo partridge while the other is for
White bellied green pigeon,
Brown headed thrush,
Japanese woodpigeon and
Eurasian collared dove. These were again fairly good, with lots of foliage and shade, with the latter coming in useful given just how hot it was during my visit (high 30s, high humidity...). Next door are the Japanese squirrels, with a couple of glass-fronted exhibits connected by a tunnel. The squirrels were very active and the exhibit appeared to be well suited to their needs, especially physically.
Moving a bit upwards is a sort of mini North American zone.
Black tailed prairie dogs are in a fairly large exhibit in front of a paddock for
American bison. The prairie dogs didn't exactly draw the short straw in this, with what I thought was a quite a nice exhibit for a species that I'd only seen in almost terrarium-like setups on this trip thus far. The bison on the other hand had a pretty tiny and bare area. This was a recurring theme throughout the zoo for many of the larger animals, not least with the
Asian elephants. The exhibit wasn't awful but it really wasn't very good either. The bull elephant exhibit was particularly grim as there was quite literally zero privacy or shade and he spent almost the entirety of my visit laid down on the floor to one side. At least the mother and calf exhibit has a bit of privacy and a pool. It didn't get any better with the Monkeys. Ueno keeps the following species in a series of near-identical cages:
Mantled guereza,
Geoffroy's spider monkey,
White-faced saki, subspecific hybrid
Japanese macaques and
De Brazza's monkeys. They don't have much height, space or privacy but it still isn't as bad as at Asa at least and the monkeys were predominantly in the shade through the worst of the heat. Overall not what I'd got used to seeing in the UK and France but honestly about on par with Pafos in quality. Beside it is a large rock for
Japanese macaques, which I honestly only managed to give a cursory glance but I think it was nice and large, maybe a bit more privacy would be good as ever but it was similar to baboon rock exhibits at Berlin in style.
Around the corner is a row of bear pits. These are viewable from almost every angle, meaning there are precious few places for the bears to hide. Despite this, I thought most of the enclosures weren't a world away in size from some of their counterparts in Europe, especially not those for
Sun bears,
Asian small clawed otters and
Japanese black bears, but the
Hokkaido brown bear exhibit was too small and had too little shade. Ueno really should find another home for the brown bear and house a mustelid in this exhibit - thinking one of the more active species like Yellow throated marten or Japanese badger who will use the space. Overall the bear pits aren't horrendous by any means but one or two of the exhibits could definitely be improved and it would be nice if one of the viewing areas were closed so the bears weren't viewable from quite literally 360 degrees around the exhibits.
Moving to the East, you hit a small row of aviaries for Galliformes predominantly. These are generally nice and you could tell the birds appreciated the foliage and shade in the heat that day. The aviaries held
Bare faced curassow,
Eurasian collared dove,
Green pheasant,
Australian brushturkey,
Red headed woodpigeon and
Palawan peacock pheasant. Next to them is a round cage for
Eurasian otters. This isn't a bad exhibit really, I just found it a bit odd. The otters have a pretty sizeable pool and can hide from visitors, but the weird part is an elevated tunnel full of water into a separate glass cubicle-like thing. Not sure how often the otters go in there but hey, at least it was interesting.
Here's a photo by
@akasha showing the enclosure in case anyone is interested - hope she doesn't mind me sharing it. Moving on swiftly, you come to a slightly elevated path through a row of Bird of Prey aviaries. These were generally average, with good height but relatively few furnishings and definitely weren't on the level of those I'd seen in Seoul. Nice species list though, with
Japanese scops owl,
Mountain hawk eagle (ssp. orientalis), and
Japanese ural owl (I think?) plus
Bateleur,
Harris's hawk,
African white backed vulture,
Andean condor and
Steller sea eagle.
You then hit the Tiger and Gorilla woods area. As I understand it both are vast improvements from their previous set ups, and I found them quite pleasant but as I see both fairly regularly in London I didn't stay for long. Overall, a solid pair of exhibits for
Sumatran tigers about on par with those at Seoul and another good exhibit for
Western lowland gorillas. Again maybe one less viewing window would be good as the animals must feel a little surrounded. Next to the tigers is a small dark aviary for
Edwards's pheasants, which wasn't particularly big but was still a nice addition in an area of the zoo dominated by megafauna.
Beyond this area looping around is the entrance to the upper level of the Tropical birds aviary building. I don't especially remember or have sufficiently detailed notes/records of this building to make a detailed species list including mixes etc, so I'll just list the species I saw below and just describe the bird building in general. The building was fairly similar in style to that of Seoul, with multi-level aviaries viewable from both floors and then some small single-level aviaries on the side. The highlight of the house is clearly the lone
Great slaty woodpecker, who actually put on quite the show for me, feeding for an extended period within a metre of where I was stood. It was interesting to see a bird's tongue at work from such a close distance. The bird seemed to almost be the bully of the aviary, attempting to peck a tinamou who got to close multiple times. It really is quite an impressive and beautiful species, and I'm glad I got to see it before it disappears from captivity (as far as I know?). The house isn't exactly bereft of other rarities though, with Northern boobook, Ruddy kingfisher, Bengal common kingfisher, Japanese scops owl and more. The aviaries are typically suitable for the species displayed and I was generally quite pleased with what I saw. There could definitely be a fair bit more foliage in some of the exhibits though as privacy was sometimes the factor that was lacking.
Species list: Fischer's lovebird, Great blue-eared glossy starling, Golden-breasted starling, Violet-backed starling, Crowned hornbill, Toco toucan, White bellied go away bird, Great slaty woodpecker, Elegant crested tinamou, Ruddy kingfisher (bangsi), Bengal common kingfisher, Northern boobook, Japanese scops owl, Long-tailed paradise whydah, White headed buffalo weaver, Laughing kookaburra, Red throated parrotfinch, Triton cockatoo, Blacksmith lapwing, Eurasian oystercatcher, Madagascar crested ibis, African spoonbill, Black necked stilt, Japanese quail, Egyptian plover, Black crowned night heron, Red shouldered macaw, Southern tamandua.
Around the corner is a nicely done tapir exhibit, complete with a spacious moat which the tapirs certainly made use of while I was there. Next to that is the Nocturnal Animal House, a darkened building predominantly lit with blue light. I found all of its exhibits to be good in all honesty, generally fairly spacious, good furnishing and lots of privacy. A fairly large group of
Sunda slow loris are in the first, with
Chinese pangolin in the next,
Masked palm civet and finally
Leschenault's rousette. It's an impressive lineup and I especially enjoyed seeing a very active and sprightly pangolin waddling around its exhibit. Across from this is a row of pretty small but functional crane exhibits, with
Wattled crane,
Black necked crane,
Red crowned crane,
Hamerkop and
Secretarybird. These were in stark contrast to the crane housing in Seoul, but very vaguely adequate. Almost finished with the Eastern garden now as we head across the plaza area to the Arctic complex, an area made up of a bunch of paths weaving through exhibits for
Polar bears,
Svalbard rock ptarmigans,
California sea lions and
Harbor seals.
This may well be a bit controversial, especially given that I visited on a very hot day, but I actually thought the Polar bear exhibit was pretty decent. The pool was deep, the exhibits lacked privacy but were spacious enough and within the pool there are a couple of spots the bears can move out of view. The bear was really enjoying himself in the pool given the weather and honestly I thought combined with the somewhat interesting 'water arch' for seals right next door, it made for an interesting experience and one that I'll remember for a while as the sheer power and size of the bear has never been more apparent to me. I didn't get a good look at the seal exhibits but they looked fine from afar, and the ptarmigans are housed in pair of fairly sterile exhibits with glass so foggy it's hard to see anything at all.
Moving across the bridge into the Eastern side, the first thing you hit are the pandas. Entering from the top, you first come across a
Red panda exhibit which is ok but again a bit on the small side, followed by a row of aviaries for
Temminck's tragopan,
Golden pheasant and
Lady Amherst's pheasant. It's a nice little Chinese area, but it as always very much plays second fiddle to the liquorice loanees next door.
Giant pandas are in pretty nice surroundings as is typical for the species, which spacious indoor exhibits for both individuals and multiple outdoor areas. While the pandas were more active than they typically seem to be, it also served as a reminder for just how overhyped they are, with a large queue having formed outside while I was in there. Anyway, moving on swiftly South you hit the Children's Zoo, which does have some interesting exhibits interspersed in there. You have a pretty tiny and low
Emu area, some again fairly low aviaries for
Oriental storks and
Aleutian Canada goose, a pretty sizeable
Crested porcupine area (with AC) and an island with a couple of tall trees for what I assume must be pinioned
Steller sea eagles. The best exhibit of the lot in this area though is a fairly large cage for
Inca terns and
Eurasian oystercatchers. A nice mix of two very lovely species, plus a couple of smaller cages for
Japanese night heron and
Japanese ural owl next door.
Across the lake is another waterfowl exhibit, this time for
Oriental stork,
Aleutian cackling goose and
Swan goose, with a little piece of the lake in there too. Working your way up you come to the Madagascar area, comprising two buildings. The first is a small roundhouse for both indoor and 'outdoor' cages for
Fossa and
Black lemurs (separately of course). Both good size, lots of foliage and nice species. Stuck to the side of Aye aye forest is a large cage for Black and white ruffed lemurs, who were making an absolute racket but remained concealed in the vegetation. Entering Aye aye forest is quite the change of scenery, particularly on a sunny day as it is absolutely pitch black. Signs for
Madagascar hissing cockroaches,
Greater hedgehog tenrecs and
Lesser Hedgehog tenrec as well as a series of
Aye aye exhibits are hardly discernable in the dimly lit environment, let alone a glimpse of the tenrecs themselves. The aye-ayes were more co-operative, but it was far to dark to even try and get a photo. Was somewhat hoping for streaked tenrec in here as it was previously kept, but they must have died out fairly recently. In the same building is a diurnal exhibit for
Ring tailed lemurs and
Radiated tortoises, creating another stark contrast with the pitch black of the nocturnal area. There's nothing much more to say about the Madagascar area to be honest, it's a nice lineup of species in generally good exhibits and represents the island quite well except for the lack of birds.
Just up from there is the Terrarium. The exotics area is in a big greenhouse with ample space and all the species are typically in exhibits ranging from pretty small to fairly good. There's nothing terribly special about it although again the species list is far from bad. The Saltwater crocodile is an absolutely gargantuan individual, but this means that it appears to have outgrown its pool. Having said this I don't image it is particularly active either way so maybe it isn't a massive deal either way. Golden-breasted starlings are free flying in the greenhouse. Below is a species list:
Japanese giant salamander, Saltwater crocodile, Australian lungfish, West African black turtle, Northern caiman lizard, Pig nosed turtle, Chinese crocodile lizard, West African dwarf crocodile, Asian arowana, Oblong turtle, Australian green tree frog, Surinam toad, Budgett's frog, Dyeing poison frog, Quince monitor, Iberian ribbed newt, Greater siren, Malayan gharial, Sri Lankan black turtle, Annam leaf turtle, Galapagos tortoise, Emerald tree boa, Leopard gecko, Tropical girdled lizard, Gila monster, Beaded lizard, California kingsnake, Western hognose snake, Burmese python, Scheltopusik, Eastern bluetongued skink, Green iguana, Yellow footed tortoise, Pacific boa.
As you reach the end of the path through the greenhouse you come to a small room on your left with lots of small terrariums for native species. The terrariums were all mostly adequate although the turtle pools were too small and lacked any sort of privacy.
Species list: Tokyo salamander, Tohoku salamander, Japanese black salamander, Japanese clawed salamander, Japanese fire-bellied newt, Montane brown frog, Kajika frog, Daruma pond frog, Eastern Japanese toad, Japanese tree frog, Mamushi, Japanese keelback, Burrowing ratsnake, Japanese four-lined snake, Japanese ratsnake, Japanese five-lined skink, Japanese gecko, Japanese grass lizard, Red eared slider, Reeves' pond turtle, Japanese pond turtle, Chinese softshell turtle, Glandirana reliquia, Mandarina hirosei, Anderson's crocodile newt, Miyako grass lizard.
Almost there now. Apologies if it's all getting a bit brief but I'm writing from an airport at 5 in the morning so it's hard not to want to wrap things up a bit faster than usual. Anyway you next have a loop around a series of exhibits for large African hoofstock. These are all far too small and outdated and at least half the animals should be found better homes, allowing more room for the rest. The singular
Common hippo in particular felt as if it should make way for more room for
Pygmy hippos. The
Giraffe exhibit should really be combined as soon as possible with the now empty Okapi exhibit.
Barbary sheep and
Black rhino are each in sterile, barren and tiny paddocks. It's not a good look for a zoo which otherwise didn't have
too many black marks to its name. Nearby are decent enclosures for
Eastern grey kangaroo and
Collared peccary, plus an avairy for
American flamingos and a couple of suitable pools for
African penguins. I want to finish the review on the excellent
Shoebill exhibit however, as this was teeming with vegetation and the Shoebill was very curious and active. It was definitely one of the highlights in a fairly variable zoo, and it felt odd that one of the best exhibits was right next to definitely some of the worst, but it in a way encapsulates the zoo nicely.
Ueno is a zoo with many problems, that much is for sure. Major reshuffling needs to happen in the ungulate exhibits and the Monkey house and Bear pits also need some serious work in parts. The main problem is that developments don't seem to be particularly quick in coming, in stark juxtaposition with Japan in general where buildings seemed to be springing up all over and still at a rapid pace. Or at least that's the impression I got from my limited time there. Ueno clearly has the potential to be a lovely zoo and a pleasant visit, as shown by its tiger and gorilla exhibits which seemed fairly recent, it's just a matter of whether it can secure the funding and find the initiative to make changes for the better.
And with that, my reviews of Asian zoos are complete. Might post a little addendum on perceived cultural and day-to-day differences later plus maybe a little travel advice for people looking to come over for the first time, though admittedly I'm not the most experienced myself.