Ostrava Zoo
Back to Czechia for a zoo that nearly missed the cut for this trip. Being somewhat unfamiliar with the zoo minus a few key details, I briefly doubted if it would be worth a visit especially considering the city of Ostrava is thoroughly uninteresting despite being the third most populated in the country. I was also getting over a cold so while the idea of having a lazy weekend sounded enticing, I purchased some train tickets on a whim and next thing you know I was three hours North. This is one of the latest notable zoos within day tripping distance of Vienna so it would've felt wrong to leave it out. Suffice to say giving this one a swerve would’ve been a big mistake.
The zoo is spread out through a large densely forested site and I think I may have missed a few things as a result. A handful of raptor aviaries here or perhaps some (mostly empty for the season) primate islands, but nothing of significance. I also intentionally passed on the train ride through a series of field enclosures which can’t be seen otherwise and didn't have time for the botanical elements either. I’ve reached that point in my zoo visiting career where I’m content missing a few things, whereas not long ago I was a completionist through and through. Honestly it is a little sad that my drive to experience everything has faded and some species don’t get me excited like they used to. However, to say Ostrava didn't leave me thrilled couldn't be further from the truth.
Right out the gate it becomes evident that the zoo has a heavy focus on Asian species (though no tigers oddly enough). Past a few heavily themed domestic yards is an absolutely lovely aviary complex for Chinese and Tibetan birds. Wonderful first impression, though it was even better to linger here shortly before closing without any other visitors and simply be surrounded by the bird calls. There are also some open-topped enclosures for cranes and waterfowl within a zen garden nearby, along with a sprawling series of yards for Asian deer that felt like it went on forever.
Chinese/Tibetan Aviaries
One of two Walkthrough Chinese/Tibetan Aviaries
Before going any further, let me get the disappointments out of the way. I was left rather bewildered by the Indian carnivore pavilion which can only be described as a questionable investment. At its core this is a highly outdated feline house that received a renovation at some point that focused more on cosmetics than improving the quality of life for its inhabitants. Now the whole thing is a themed pavilion with mockrock, bamboo bars, and tall plantings around the outdoor enclosures. Ultimately it’s just window dressing for what is still a series of pitiful cages far too small both indoors and out. Would it not have made more sense to spare the thematics and wait until funds were available to build new enclosures from scratch? Surely it’ll have to go sometime soon and hopefully then the lioness and leopards (including two adorable cubs) can get enclosures that do them justice. At least the male lion made it out of the trenches with a more suitable enclosure nearby.
Female Lion Exhibit
Indoor Sri Lankan Leopard Exhibit (one of several)
Around that central part of the zoo are a few other relics of the past like some worn down cages for smaller cats that leave a lot to be desired. The Pallas’ cat and caracal ones were better; the fishing cat and rusty spotted cat ones not so much. The elephant house wasn’t terrible, but very old school and nowhere near large enough to accommodate the current herd. Particularly the bull yard (home to a highly impressive specimen) is only a third of an acre and indoors is the smallest I’ve seen that still exists. Disappointing, though there was a cool moment where one of the females began trumpeting with excitement as a truck full of browse pulled up the building. She must've sensed the vibrations before it came into view.
Asian Elephant Exhibit (cow yard)
The last real eyesore is the monkey house which appears to be in the process of being dismantled as new enclosures are constructed elsewhere. Only a few lemurs and a lone diana monkey are still found in those hideous cages, as well as mandrills who also have access to a retrofitted monkey pit which likely dates back to the same period, but definitely was upgraded at some point. Everyone else has moved on to greener pastures and this is where things pick up significantly. The lion-tailed macaques only recently moved up into the new Wanderu complex which is sublime. I’ve been loving this design philosophy of simply fencing in natural landscapes and mature vegetation to create amazing spaces. Directly next door is the gibbon/hog deer exhibit which is the antithesis of this philosophy; a manicured lawn surrounded by temple thematics and mockrock, with bulky concrete trees scattered throughout. Not exactly my style, but the inhabitants didn't care. Mama gibbon was wrestling with her baby over a branch while the male scaled the height of the one mature tree in the enclosure.
Mandrill Exhibit
Lion-tailed Macaque Exhibit
White-cheeked Gibbon and Hog Deer Exhibit
A real defining feature of the zoo is the number of themed pavilions. Some of them are pretty small with only one room of displays, such as the Amazon house. Others are far more elaborate and complete with an outdoor exhibit as an anchor, such as the Tanganyika house in which there are three rooms: a wetlands hall with hippos, crocs and fish, a nocturnal hall with various odd mammals and herps, and a hall with a series of caves for mongoose and porcupines. It was the Papua house that left the biggest impression however, a region seldom given attention in zoos that's made into something special here. It's essentially a small building attached to a large walkthrough aviary with only a handful of vivariums, but each of which are perfectly crated for their inhabitants (lizards and fish basically). Loved it!
Crocodile Monitor Exhibit in Papua House
Indoor Hippo Pool in Tanganyika House
Amazon House
My favorite of the themed pavilions however is known as the House of Evolution. Located at the very top of the zoo across from a pair of vast savannas, it’s essentially an African rainforest house with primates and various smaller creatures to tell the story of evolution. A large chimpanzee troop with several active youngsters were delightful to watch in their dayroom. The diana monkey enclosure is something else however, a colossal wooded space with massive trees. Of course the monkeys all decided to stay indoors, but the image of them jumping between the very top of those trees is an exciting one. In any other zoo this would be the greatest monkey enclosure offered, yet somehow it’s overshadowed by something even greater.
Outdoor Diana Monkey Exhibit
Outdoor Chimpanzee Exhibit
Won't you shake a poor chimp's hand
Finally I get to gush about Ostrava’s magnum opus – Chitwan! This was the sole enclosure that convinced me that the zoo was worthy of a visit. Simply put, it’s a multi-acre slice of forest home to a powerful mix of Asiatic black bears and Hanuman langurs. That summary alone sounds like a pie-in-the-sky fantasy concept, yet somehow it works perfectly while being every bit as amazing as one could hope. Two rare and striking species in a completely natural environment with top notch viewing. It is the epitome of what makes an iconic zoo exhibit down to the finest detail and simultaneously the best tropical bear and best monkey exhibit I’ve ever seen. Unfortunately neither species were really out and about when I arrived, just a couple langurs lounging in the doorways of their holding building. As amazing as this exhibit was by itself, it was disappointing the inhabitants decided not to be very showy…
Until they did.
I turned around to leave, took one last glance three seconds later, and it was pure chaos. My jaw literally dropped as langurs started flying out of the building like doves out of magician's top hat, tumbling over one another in a frenzy until over 30 of them were in view. Meanwhile a colossal, absolute chunker of a bear emerges from its den, meandering through the monkey mania unphased. Turns out a keeper was just out of view tossing some food prompting the langurs to start scurrying for fruit while the bear picked apart a rabbit carcass. I spent a half hour taking in this remarkable scene and struggled to pull myself away. Such brilliance cannot be put into words so I’ll just call this the single greatest enclosure I’ve seen in Europe so far and end it there.
Asiatic Black Bear & Hanuman Langur Feeding
Asiatic Black Bear & Hanuman Langur Exhibit
I greatly underestimated Ostrava on all fronts. I knew the zoo was well regarded and had some first class elements, but the whole atmosphere was far more pleasant than I expected. One of the greatest zoos I’ve seen for primates (minus what remains of the monkey house) and the number of unique pavilions was a treat. Zlin is the natural comparison as the other rapidly developing eastern Czech zoo and I’m going back and forth on which one wins out for me personally. Ostrava has a higher high, but way lower lows that cannot be ignored. Based on the zoo’s trajectory however, those dodgier bits will probably be all gone within a decade so I’ll be keeping a close eye on this one in the years to come.