Chlidonias presents: Bustralia

Pine Creek: sewage ponds and Miners Park


With Hooded Parrots and Ghost Bats both successfully seen yesterday, this morning I walked to the town’s sewage ponds which are the recommended local site for trying to see Gouldian Finches. “Trying to” are the relevant words there. They are seen regularly in the area but it seems not reliably. I didn’t meet anyone who had. In fact the birders I saw all specifically mentioned they hadn’t found any.

Pine Creek sits beside the highway but is accessed by a half-circle road which comes off the highway, runs through the middle of the town, and back onto the highway. The road to the sewage ponds is east of the town, about halfway between either end of the semi-circle road, so to get there you walk out to the highway and then double-back up to the sewage ponds road (which is just marked with a sign for the cemetery).

I had seen on Google Maps that there were various little dirt tracks directly east of town but I didn’t want to waste time trying to find if they reached the highway or not, so I took the “long” way as described above. Coming back I scouted around a bit, and found that there is a track starting at the end of the Water Gardens which comes out directly opposite the sewage ponds road.

It was a good thing I took the longer way though, because firstly I saw a covey of Brown Quail by the side of the road at the junction with the highway, but much more importantly – an Australian Bustard! I had seen on eBird that they are sometimes seen here but didn’t think I’d be lucky enough for that. It was in flight, fortunately flying across the view rather than away from me, so I got a good look at it. Flight views are not as good as standing views of course, but better than nothing. A comparison which many might be more familiar with would be that if you see a bittern in flight it is awesome because they are difficult to see, but you’d still prefer to see it on the ground.


It’s about 3km to the ponds along a red sand road. The only things down there are the ponds and, just past them, the cemetery. If you’re walking and a vehicle comes along it’s best to move well off the road to avoid being covered in red dust!

On the way I came across two fine-looking horses which at first I thought must be wild brumbies. They certainly acted wild, snorting and stomping as they ran off through the trees, but the next morning they were still around and from their prints in the sand I think they were shod.

Pine Creek is only a tiny town so their sewage plant is just two small ponds filled with water, and a third which was either being constructed or relined. A sign on the gate said booking was required but the gates were open, there were workers inside, and so I just went in and they didn’t mind. However the ponds are so small that viewing from outside the fence is easy enough, with the best view being from the left side (if walking around the perimeter from the gate).

To the right side of the ponds is a grassed area with sprinklers of waste-water creating circular puddles. I checked all these for finches but the only birds on the grass were numerous Spur-winged Plovers and a lone Plumed Egret.

On the ponds themselves were several Australian Little Grebes, a Grey Teal, and - around the concrete edges – a Pied Stilt and lots of Black-fronted Dotterels. When I circled the fence-line later from the outside I saw a Wandering Whistling Duck squatting in a hollow which, when it walked over to the water, appeared to have a lame wing. But it was gone the next morning so I guess it was fine.

Much better than all of these were the Radjah Shelducks, which were a lifer for me. There were a lot of them as well. A large brood of half-grown birds swimming in the water, and multiple adult pairs dotted about on the grass.

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These were just as big an attraction here for me as the Gouldian Finches would be, although I knew I would almost certainly see them later in the trip which wouldn’t be the case for the Gouldians.

As for the Gouldians, not a sign.

I tried the cemetery as well where I only saw a Blue-winged Kookaburra and a Great Bowerbird. Then I did another circuit of the ponds and headed back to town. On the walk back, just by the Water Gardens, I got another lifer with a Paperbark Flycatcher which is found only in northern Australia.

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Paperbark Flycatcher. I think The Beatles wrote a song about this one.



Earlier in the morning when crossing through the Water Gardens on my way to the ponds, I had met another birder who was looking for Gouldians, but was photographing the Masked Finches I had stopped to watch (another lifer for me), and he told me about what he called “the old settling pond” by Miners Park a few minutes walk away where he had seen Crimson Finches the evening before. So that’s where I went now.

Pine Creek was a huge name in gold-mining back in the day with thousands of eager prospectors making their way here in search of fortune. Many of them came by foot over hundreds of miles of desert because there were no roads and it was years before the railway made it out this far. Now the old railway station is a museum piece and Miners Park next to it displays all sorts of old equipment which was in use here.

Walking through Miners Park you will find a small creek channel on the other side, still with water trapped within it on my visit, and then if you cross the bright yellow footbridge and turn directly right to follow the dirt track under the old rail-bridge you will find a fairly big circular pond. There was an Australian Darter perched on a dead snag at the edge of the water and, in a somewhat bizarre turn, this was the first one I had seen on the trip: not anywhere around the coast or on some big river, but in the middle of the desert.

This pond was a great little spot. Unlike the sewage ponds which were just bare concrete with nothing around them, this one was fringed with reeds and pandanus. And in those reeds and pandanus were Crimson Finches! An immediate success.

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There were birds of all kinds in this area. An Olive-backed Oriole was obliging in having its photo taken (unlike the Crimson Finches who had proved very difficult to get acceptable shots of – the photos above were taken the following day), there were Golden-headed Cisticolas in the reeds with the finches, and all sorts of honeyeaters in the trees including at least one pair of Bar-breasted Honeyeaters which were yet another lifer (the sixth for the day).

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Olive-backed Oriole...

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...and for good measure, a Green Oriole too. They are also called Yellow Orioles which is a better name.

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Bar-breasted Honeyeater


It was really really hot today, so having spent quite a bit of time around the Miners Park pond I headed back to my room to wait out the worst of the heat. In the late afternoon I returned to the Water Gardens where I finally succeeded in seeing and photographing a male Hooded Parrot. Just a spectacular bird!

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In the evening the parrots were perched all along the power lines as they gathered before going to roost.

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While at the Water Gardens I met a lady birdwatcher who said that the caravan park at Wyndham in the very top north-east of Western Australia was fully reliable for Gouldians, which come to a water tap behind the park. Now I just need to try and figure out if I can get there! (Although, in Broome I met birders twice who had come through Wyndham and not seen Gouldians).




Yesterday I had seen 38 species of birds. Today was an even fifty. The only mammal I’m counting are the Black Flying Foxes (and not the horses):

Australian Little Grebe, Little Pied Cormorant, Australian Darter, Radjah Shelduck, Wandering Whistling Duck, Grey Teal, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Black Kite, Great Egret, Plumed Egret, Straw-necked Ibis, Black-fronted Dotterel, Spur-winged Plover, Pied Stilt, Australian Brown Quail, Australian Bustard, Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Little Corella, Red-collared Lorikeet, Red-winged Parrot, Hooded Parrot, Bar-shouldered Dove, Peaceful Dove, Blue-winged Kookaburra, Rainbow Bee-eater, White-breasted Woodswallow, White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike, Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrike, Golden-headed Cisticola, Rufous Whistler, Grey-crowned Babbler, Paperbark Flycatcher, Willy Wagtail, Magpie-Lark, Mistletoebird, Blue-faced Honeyeater, White-gaped Honeyeater, Bar-breasted Honeyeater, White-throated Honeyeater, Dusky Myzomela, Silver-crowned Friarbird, Little Friarbird, Masked Finch, Crimson Finch, Australian Figbird, Olive-backed Oriole, Green Oriole, Great Bowerbird, Pied Butcherbird, Torresian Crow.
 
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Pine Creek, last day here


Today was basically a repeat of yesterday – sewage ponds and Miners Park in the morning, then trying to avoid the afternoon heat. I had a bus to Broome at 6.25pm, so after I came back from the sewage ponds I checked out from the Lazy Lizard, leaving my pack in their shop, then went to Miners Park, then just sat under the fans in the camp kitchen for the rest of the day trying to catch up on blogs where (eventually) I discovered that the Railway Resort hotel on the other side of the road had wifi and their signal reached where I was sitting.

The sewage ponds were much the same. I took the shorter route via the dirt track at the end of the Water Gardens. New birds for the trip were Red-tailed Black Cockatoos seen on the walk there, and Varied Trillers and Red-backed Fairy-Wrens on the way back.

It was a Saturday and the gates to the ponds were closed so I looked in from the outside. No Gouldians were to be seen. Black-tailed Treecreepers can also be seen around here but I forgot to look for them!


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More Hooded Parrots at the Water Gardens when coming back through town.


The pond by Miners Park was bustling with birds still. Northern Fantail was new for my Australian list (I’d seen it in West Timor previously). The Crimson Finches were just as active as yesterday.

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Crimson Finch, showing the unusual tail.


I was confused for a while on the identity of a small honeyeater, but later saw it in the company of an adult bird and realised it was a juvenile Rufous-throated Honeyeater, lacking the diagnostic orange throat!

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The juvenile Rufous-throated Honeyeater...

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And the best photo I could manage of an adult Rufous-throated Honeyeater.


As I was heading back to the caravan park a small dove flew down to the edge of the little creek channel. I almost dismissed it out of hand as a Peaceful Dove but luckily took a proper look and saw it was a Diamond Dove. I’d been trying to find these everywhere – they are another one of the Australian desert birds which, like Zebra Finches and Budgerigars, have become aviary staples worldwide. Both Diamond Doves and Peaceful Doves are reported consistently year-round at the Olive Pink Botanic Gardens in Alice Springs, and I had been disappointed not to see either when there. A funny thing I have noticed is that whereas the Peaceful Doves are almost always in small groups, the Diamond Dove I only ever see singly. I saw this lone one at Miners Park and then in Broome I saw them every day at the Bird Observatory, and they were always alone.

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Diamond Dove (this photo was taken later at the Broome Bird Observatory because I didn’t get a photo of the one I saw at Pine Creek).


The final bird for the day was directly after the Diamond Dove, when as I was about to cross the yellow bridge an Azure Kingfisher zoomed past, landed on a twig just “upstream” and proceeded to beat whatever it had caught to death on it.




Today’s bird total was 48 species, plus one mammal (the usual Black Flying Fox) and also one reptile - a Gilbert’s Dragon Lophognathus gilberti seen by the Miners Park pond:

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Australian Little Grebe, Radjah Shelduck, Grey Teal, Whistling Kite, Black Kite, Great Egret, Plumed Egret, Straw-necked Ibis, Black-fronted Dotterel. Spur-winged Plover, Pied Stilt, Red-tailed Black Cockatoo, Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Little Corella, Red-collared Lorikeet, Red-winged Parrot, Hooded Parrot, Bar-shouldered Dove, Peaceful Dove, Diamond Dove, Azure Kingfisher, Sacred Kingfisher, Blue-winged Kookaburra, Rainbow Bee-eater, White-breasted Woodswallow, White-winged Triller, Varied Triller, White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike, Golden-headed Cisticola, Grey-crowned Babbler, Paperbark Flycatcher, Northern Fantail, Red-backed Fairy-Wren, Magpie-Lark, Rufous-throated Honeyeater, Brown Honeyeater, White-gaped Honeyeater, Bar-breasted Honeyeater, White-throated Honeyeater, Dusky Myzomela, Silver-crowned Friarbird, Little Friarbird, Crimson Finch, Australian Figbird, Olive-backed Oriole, Green Oriole, Great Bowerbird, Pied Butcherbird.
 
Pine Creek to Broome


I left Pine Creek at 6.25pm. The Greyhound bus was white not red. There was a stop in Katherine for about an hour at 7.20pm, at night so no birds. The girl who had got on my previous bus at Mataranka Homestead got back on in Katherine and got off again the next morning at Willare Bridge roadhouse a couple of hours before Broome (and then was in my hostel in Broome later as well).

The bus crossed the border from the Northern Territory into Western Australia after midnight, with a 1.5 hour time difference between the two states, and then stopped in Kununurra at about 12.40am for an hour. This was a really sketchy break-point, at the Ord River roadhouse Caltex station which was locked up with service only through a small serving window – not a sign of a safe night-time environment! There was nothing else around, there were (like at other night-stops) groups of people lurking in the dark just outside the limits of the lights from the roadhouse, and everyone had to get off the bus and just wait there in the dark for an hour while the bus went off somewhere else, I think to collect and drop off mail.

I went to the window of the roadhouse to get the key for the toilet, for which ID was needed “because it keeps being stolen”! I didn’t have it on me (it was in my bag on the bus) and the guy was just like “sorry mate, need ID”. Luckily the girl who had got on in Katherine had ID and got the key, and then just let everybody from the bus use the toilet one after the other.

It took a while to get the door open though. It was in a row of four unlabelled doors behind the station, all with three locks per door! And just one key. We tried them all, in all the locks, and eventually managed it. Turned out two of the locks were for latches inside the door (for locking it when you’re inside), and the main lock on the handle which the key was actually for didn’t work properly so we had tried every door several times before finally getting it open. I’ve never seen a door like it, but perhaps it’s a common Australian thing.

Western Australia is pretty empty and there are long distances between towns. The first meal-break of the morning wasn’t until 8.55am at Fitzroy Crossing, where it was 36 degrees already. Lots of Black Kites here. I hadn’t brought any food for this bus ride because the shop at the Lazy Lizard in Pine Creek didn’t have anything suitable to be carrying overnight, so I bought a pie and sausage roll here and got a coffee for AU$4 – a third cheaper than in the Northern Territory roadhouses where a large coffee was $6.

For most of the morning the landscape was basically flat and covered in dry grassland and termite mounds, but later into the afternoon it turned into acacia woodlands scattered through with baobabs. Although traditionally associated with Africa and Madagascar, there is one species of baobab endemic to northern Australia, going by the scientific name Adansonia gregorii. The Australians call them “boabs”, probably due to an inability to spell or pronounce such a multi-syllable word as “baobab”.

The “boabs” became more and more common as the bus travelled westwards. The town of Derby, where there was a ten-minute stop for pick-ups, was filled with them. Both Derby and Broome have streets lined with them the way other places might have elms or oaks. Some of the baobabs are huge – there are some individuals which are so big that (this being Australia and therefore largely populated by criminals) the trees’ hollow interiors were used as jails.

The bus arrived in Broome at 3pm, and it was just a short walk to my hostel, the Kimberley Travellers Lodge, although several signs in the hostel call it the Nippon Inn from which it was presumably rebranded. Re-reading that "Nippon Inn" after posting I only just got the pun. My favorite hotel name pun I've encountered though (even if it is probably unintentional) remains the Niah Cave Inn in Sarawak.

I was only staying here for one night, in a three-bed dorm, then tomorrow I would be moving to the Broome Bird Observatory for four nights. There are no food services at the Bird Observatory, all your food needs to be taken in with you, so after checking in to the hostel I went over to the nearby Coles supermarket and bought a bunch of stuff. The non-perishable items (pasta, sauce, canned goods) I kept in a bag in the dorm room, and the perishable items (fruit, bread, cheese, meat) I put in a bag in the fridge in the hostel’s shared kitchen, labelled with name and date. In the morning all my food from the fridge was gone, presumably stolen by someone checking out early in the morning who had just stocked up with whatever they could take from the fridge.




It was a very light bird-day today, with only eleven species: Little Crow and Black Kite at Halls Creek; Wedge-tailed Eagle, Galah and Magpie-Lark from the bus; Willy Wagtail and Crested Pigeon (and more Black Kites) at Fitzroy Crossing; White-necked Heron (new for the year) and Red-tailed Black Cockatoo near Derby; and White-breasted Woodswallow and Silver Gull in Broome.
 
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Western Australia landscapes from the bus ... not a lot of variation. The last one is filled with termite mounds though.

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And finally some baobabs. The two bad photos are from Derby, the good photo of the big tree is in Broome.

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There will now be a brief recess from the travel posts in this thread. Tomorrow morning I have a 6am bus from Broome to Darwin, which will arrive there at around 8am the next day, and then the following day I fly out to Timor-Leste (East Timor) for a couple of weeks before returning to Darwin.

From what I've read I don't think I'll have much if any internet access in East Timor. I'll write the Broome posts while I'm there, and hopefully keep up to date with writing the East Timor posts as well so everything will be ready to go when I get back to Darwin. Fingers crossed.
 
The ice just got a bit thinner!!!

Interesting how both your reactions only use words of 2 syllables at most :) Chli might be on to something :eek:

Of course I’m saying this from the other side of the world where I’m safe and not while adding “I’ll be back in Darwin in a few weeks”. That would be onwise :cool:
 

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