DAY 8: Monday, July 20th
How many roads must a man drive down
Before you call him a zoo nerd?
How many tigers must he really see
To know a zoological turd?
How many aquariums will he tour
That contain a Shoebill Stork bird?
The answer, my friend, is blowin’ in the wind
The answer is blowin’ in Texas.
Yes, and how many years can a zoo exist
Before Snowleopard decides it’s good to see?
Yes, and how many tigers can Texas hold
Before they are allowed to run free?
Yes, and how many times do I go on trips
Before I can get sweetened ice tea?
The answer, my friend, is blowin’ in the wind
The answer is blowin’ in Texas.
Lyrics by Bob Dylan/Scott Richardson
I’ve had 4 interesting encounters with critters on the road in the past few days: a Raccoon dashing across in broad daylight; a 5-foot unidentified snake slithering across the road while being attacked by a magpie; an armadillo scuttling across at great pace; and I had to swerve out of the way today as a turtle was making its way across at a surprisingly fast pace. However, the days of Mule Deer and Pronghorn Antelope sightings are long gone, which is too bad as one of the true pleasures of cruising across states like Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota and North Dakota is the opportunity to see North America’s only species of antelope.
After the initial 5 days of vast distances of driving, there was a couple of days of only 100 km each (62 miles), then today that number surged upwards again: 760 km (472 miles). I finished 4 days in Texas, with zoos in Amarillo, San Angelo, Tyler (Caldwell Zoo) and then 10 zoos just in the Dallas area. All done! Starting on Tuesday, July 21st, I’ll actually leave Texas for a couple of days and have a day in Arkansas (4 zoos) and a day in western Louisiana (4 zoos) before heading back into Texas on Thursday, July 23rd, for a week more of Texas zoos.
Dallas Zoo:
Dallas Zoo is a tremendous zoo and one of the very best in the United States. It really does seem like two different zoos as the old “ZooNorth” section has its own entrance gate and the original acreage for the zoo. About 25 years ago Dallas Zoo expanded beneath a highway tunnel and into new land on the opposite side. Wilds of Africa was created and then in 2010 Giants of the Savanna was added and so essentially one half of Dallas Zoo is a glorious example of how to construct fantastic African animal exhibits while “ZooNorth” has a more traditional zoo setting.
This is just going to be a mini-review even though Dallas Zoo deserves a multi-page essay in a book. The monorail was closed on my visit due to the fact that it is receiving a multi-million dollar overhaul, but I already rode it twice in 2010 as today was my second visit to this great zoo. However, with or without the monorail the African section has to be seen to be believed. The huge main yard contained 4 African Elephants on my visit, while adjacent to them was a herd of 13 Reticulated Giraffes. On top of that there was a herd of at least 10 Impala, several Grant’s Zebras (off exhibit), Ostriches, plus Helmeted and Vulturine Guineafowl to round out the cast. Although the elephants were not put on exhibit until close to an hour after the zoo was open, it was a magnificent view to gaze out on them as they browsed for food, sprayed sand from their trunks and engaged in regular elephant behaviour. There was none of the head bobbing or swaying that is so common in many lesser exhibits.
Everything in Giants of the Savanna is fantastic, from the Cheetahs to the African Lions to the Warthogs to the Red River Hogs. For $30 million the zoo certainly got its money’s worth and the entire area was just as impressive as when I saw it shortly after it opened in 2010.
The rest of Africa is just as brilliant, with several exhibits being amongst the very best of their kind: Lowland Gorillas (two yards); a troop of 9 Chimpanzees in a world-class habitat; Nile Crocodiles in a gorgeously planted exhibit; Okapis, Mandrills, a large walk-through aviary; even Saddle-Billed Storks and several smaller species are given wonderfully immersive, well-designed exhibits. It takes at least a couple of hours to slowly walk around and absorb the entire Wilds of Africa/Giants of the Savanna complex and it is basically a zoo all on its own.
The “ZooNorth” section of Dallas Zoo is a real hodgepodge affair with a distinct lack of theming in all directions. However, if each section is looked at in a specific manner then there is still an overall theme of excellence. Primate Place has a series of very large enclosures that are packed with enrichment items for the monkeys; Wings of Wonder is a row of 8 aviaries that are all very impressively sized; Bug U is a small Insect House but one that holds a large number of species in small terrariums; the Children’s Zoo is excellent and with its own winding entrance it is like a mini zoo for toddlers. On my visit this part of Dallas Zoo was by far the most popular as it was swarming with kids. The otter and tiger exhibits are very good (although I’ve always had issues with the viewing area for the tigers) and the Reptile House had 2 Perentie Monitors, 3 Tuataras and a huge collection on show for the public to gape at. Without a doubt Dallas Zoo is one of the very best zoos in the nation and a strong contender for being one of America’s top 10 zoos.
Reptile House Species List: 112 total species (plus one section was temporarily closed – probably at least another dozen species would have been on display)
The main focus is on snakes, with seemingly at least 20 of the deadliest snakes on the planet.
Snakes (54): Texas Coral Snake, Texas Rat Snake, Moellendorff’s Rat Snake, Green Bush Rat Snake, Louisiana Pine Snake, Grey-Banded Kingsnake, Taylor’s Cantil, Argentine Racer, Reticulated Python, Olive Python, Green Tree Python, Emerald Tree Boa, Rainbow Boa, Tentacled Snake, Common Death Adder, Bushmaster, Broad-Banded Copperhead, Cottonmouth, West African Green Mamba, Eastern Green Mamba, Black Mamba, Fierce Snake, Chaco Lancehead, Barnett’s Lancehead, Desert Lancehead, Sharp-Nosed Viper, Long-Nosed Viper, Wetar Island Viper, Beautiful Pit Viper, McGregor’s Viper, Palestine Viper, Sri Lankan Pit Viper, Slender Hognosed Pit Viper, Speckled Forest Pit Viper, Mangshan Pit Viper, Mangrove Viper, Green Bush Viper, Temple Viper, Sahara Horned Viper, Eyelash Viper, Pope’s Tree Viper, Terciopelo, Speckled Rattlesnake, Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake, Banded Rock Rattlesnake, Timber Rattlesnake, Neotropical Rattlesnake, Samar Cobra, King Cobra, Cape Cobra, Rinkhal’s Cobra, Moroccan Cobra and Red Spitting Cobra.
Lizards (23): Grand Cayman Rock Iguana, Rhinoceros Iguana, Desert Iguana, Fiji Island Banded Iguana, Perentie Monitor, Crocodile Monitor, Black Tree Monitor, Tuatara (technically not a lizard), Side-Blotched Lizard, Chuckwalla, Caiman Lizard, Panther Chameleon, Veiled Chameleon, Jackson’s Chameleon, Green Anole, Rainbow Lizard, Taylor’s Shield-Tailed Lizard, Green Tree Skink, Shingleback Skink, Central Blue Tongue Skink, Gila Monster, Mexican Beaded Lizard and Giant Leaf-Tailed Gecko.
Turtles/Tortoises (5): Ornate Box Turtle, Black-Breasted Leaf Turtle, Red-Eared Slider, Indian Star Tortoise and Mata Mata.
Amphibians (28): Surinam Toad, Houston Toad, Puerto Rican Crested Toad, Tomato Frog, Mossy Frog, Blue Poison Dart Frog, Splashback Poison Dart Frog, Black-Leg Poison Dart Frog, Dyeing Dart Frog, Golden Poison Dart Frog, Bumble Bee Dart Frog, Blue-Legged Mantella, Golden Mantella, Panamanian Golden Frog, Solomon Island Leaf Frog, Red-Eyed Tree Frog, African Clawed Frog, African Bullfrog, American Bullfrog, Mandarin Newt, Black-Spotted Newt, Blue-Tailed Firebelly Newt, Kaiser Newt, Mexican Axolotl, Cave Salamander, Texas Blind Salamander, Tiger Salamander and Hellbender.
Crocodilians (2): American Alligator (including a white one) and Chinese Alligator.
Caldwell Zoo:
Caldwell Zoo is a little treasure of a zoo and one that I also visited back in 2010. There has only been a single new exhibit in the five years since then and that is for American Black Bears but the enclosure is a massive disappointment as it is simply too small. I’ve seen many larger bear yards at some of the sanctuaries and backyard menageries that I’ve visited on this trip, and for a reputable zoo with a history of excellence it is a major step backwards. Overall Caldwell is still one of the 5 best zoos in the state of Texas.
South America – This area is still the smallest and most disappointing, but it does have an enormous mixed species aviary-type structure with Giant Anteater, Squirrel Monkey, Capybara, King Vulture and several other bird species. Golden Lion Tamarins have a densely-packed exhibit and this area is often the first that viewers see in the zoo after the gorgeous flamingo lagoon.
East Africa – The savanna yard is magnificent, with the following 11 species: Grevy’s Zebra, Greater Kudu, Impala, Soemmerring’s Gazelle, Eastern White-Bearded Wildebeest, Warthog, Ostrich, East African Crowned Crane, Sacred Ibis, Egyptian Goose and Helmeted Guineafowl. The Reticulated Giraffe yard and barn are both clearly too small for the 6 giraffes in residence; the two African Elephants have a badly outdated yard with a steep moat. However, the main savanna with its 11 species is amazing and it can even be seen from the African Penguin House and the African Lion exhibit. Other delights include a Colobus Monkey/Bongo/Yellow-Backed Duiker exhibit; an excellent, grassy Meerkat yard; and a Serval enclosure.
Texas – A series of mammal exhibits are adequate (Red Fox, Coati, inexplicably a mutant White Tiger, Bobcat, Ocelot, Cougar) and the American Alligator pool is enormous. The Reptile House is small but very enjoyable and the large main yard has American Bison, White-Tailed Deer, Texas Longhorn Cattle, Wild Turkey and Sandhill Crane all together in a multi-acre exhibit.
Reptile House Species List: 50 total species (including 9 species of tarantula)
Gopher Tortoise, Three-Toad Box Turtle, Red-Eared Slider, Dabb Spiny-Tailed Lizard, Gila Monster, Emerald Tree Boa, Red-Tailed Boa, Brazilian Rainbow Boa, Desert Rosy Boa, Blood Python, Green Anaconda, Chihuahua Mountain Kingsnake, Gray-Banded Kingsnake, Hognosed Snake, Mexican Pygmy Rattlesnake, Banded Rock Rattlesnake, Black-Tailed Rattlesnake, Canebrake Rattlesnake, Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, Baird’s Rat Snake, Trans-Pecos Rat Snake, Texas Rat Snake, Texas Indigo, Bullsnake, Western Cottonmouth, Fire-Bellied Toad, Horned Frog, African Clawed Frog, Tomato Frog, Green and Black Poison Dart Frog, Blue Poison Dart Frog, Orange Poison Dart Frog, Eastern Tiger Salamander, Brazilian Red and White Tarantula, Brazilian Black Tarantula, Brazilian Whiteknee Tarantula, Mexican Red-Kneed Tarantula, Costa Rican Tiger Rump Tarantula, Antilles Pink-Toed Tarantula, Venezuela Suntiger Tarantula, Texas Brown Tarantula, Horned Baboon Tarantula, Largemouth Bass, Spotted Gar, Longnose Gar, Alligator Gar, Bowfin, Black Crappie, Bluegill Sunfish and Redear Sunfish.