Bioparque la Reserva, Colombia - March 2016
I arrived into Bogota at 4am with my Bolivian flight due to take off 17 hours later. As Bioparque la Reserva only opened at 9, I tried to kill some time in the airport lounge. Meantime, the Frenchman who had sat next to me on the plane had been intrigued by my plans and stories and texted to tell me he'd like to join me on my zoo trips today. So we met up before 8 and found a taxi who would take us round for the whole day.
We arrived at the park at 8.40 and were surprised to find that we could already buy our tickets. It turns out that this is a rescue centre which only keeps rescued animals, and visitors are only allowed to visit on one of several daily guided tours. I had not been aware of that. So we waited in the cafeteria area and took some time to admire the morning bird life. A couple of tanager species were the highlight.
Our tour began at 9, starting with a walk across the road to watch a video about Colombia's environment (in an interesting lecture theatre) and the need for conservation. Our guide then gave a talk about opportunistic animals.
When she finished the discussion we were then shown the animals displayed at the back of the room in glass-fronted enclosures. Common boas, mice, rats and cockroaches were showcased. On leaving the building I was intrigued by the calls of some small parrots and caught a glimpse of a Pyrrhura sp. being held behind the scenes
The next part of the tour was a tiny herp room housing a Uromastyx sp. (the park’s only non-native wild animal), a young tortoise, Golden poison dart frog, Andean poison dart frog(?), and a couple of tarantulas.
A different experience was extremely popular with the rest of the group; a walk-in rabbit enclosure. There were some young domestic rabbits in there too, and the group seemed to love chasing them. I obviously had other animals on my mind, and was standing near the gate ready to move on. Naturally, the guide got the impression that I had a fear of fluffy bunnies and so urged me to chase after them with the rest of the group. I may have indulged her.
We then crossed the road back to the centre’s main grounds, walking past a couple of small outdoor tanks with tadpoles in we made it to the ‘Tropical dry forest’ house. This is effectively a greenhouse split into two sections. The first houses a few native butterfly species, along with a pair of (yellow-footed) tortoises, and a great horned owl. The guide stressed that one of the things that made this exhibit special was the lack of barriers you find in zoos. The other visitors absolutely loved this area. I, however, was much more impressed with the other half of the greenhouse: ‘Andean forest’. Filled with interesting free-flying birds, including a tinamou, aracari, amazon and Pionus parrots, caciques, thick-knees, whistling ducks, jays, a small woodpecker and a very vocal kiskadee. I went round several times taking photos, but all I saw of the woodpecker was a flash in flight which I had thought might even have been a manakin. I stayed back while the group moved on, but had no further luck with the challenging bird. I caught up with the group and later requested to re-visit the aviary but was not allowed; I was told that the flying flash was an acorn woodpecker.
The group had moved on to the outdoor aviaries; one of these houses two large hawk eagles, which are separated from the public by a barrier of criss-crossing branches on all sides of the path, making the caged visitor route look a little more like a tunnel, but potentially offering excellent photo opportunities. The second aviary is a walk-through featuring lapwings, egrets and a black-crowned night heron.
The tour meanders back across the site to the ‘Amazon jungle’; a walk-through aviary covered in plastic sheeting, with visitors separated from the lone harpy eagle by the same cage of branches mentioned above.
We interrupted the tour to walk uphill, where a low fence encloses a few trees and a clearing; here is the daily mountain coati talk. The only known captive animals are kept here off-show but every day a short talk is given in Spanish, while a stunning little coati does a lap of the enclosed area looking for treats which are laid down by a keeper. I was fascinated by how long and mobile the tip of its snout was. An amazing animal. I took a couple of poor photos, then took a short video and a couple of shots on my ‘spare’ compact camera (so I’d still have some photos if anything happened to the other one). By the time I took a few photos on my DSLR I found that the coati had been ushered back into the pet carrier and was on its way to the off-show enclosures. I had no idea that the encounter would be so brief, lasting just a few minutes in total.
We finished off the tour with a quick stop in the plant stall, a small ‘greenhouse’ featuring mostly carnivorous plants and succulents.
I was a bit disappointed with the limitations of a tour; I wouldn’t have expected that any requests for back-tracking or accompanied photography at the end of the tour would be so firmly denied. As I was to experience on a few occasions on this trip – some of these zoos try to work hard to tell visitors that they are not zoos, and to distance themselves from so many similar establishments. In the process, the experience is sometimes compromised.