Day 1
Landed in Singapore at about 6am. Flight was overall good, but mostly because of the movies rather than the food if I'm honest. Most airports upon arrival you walk quite a prescribed route to passport checks, then have a little more freedom - in Changi you can take any number of shuttles and doors to various terminals before even reaching the checks. Having said this, it's a spectacular airport for the most part.
Once I was past the initial confusion upon arrival, it was mostly very cool. As it was very early it did feel a little like a ghost town but the whole place is absolutely spotless. The floor is quite literally shining. I could see my reflection in it at times. The bathrooms are similarly a pretty sleek experience. Interestingly in Singapore there seems to be a theme of there being a row of sinks at adult height and then a much lowered sink for kids. Very thoughtful stuff, I still remember the tribulations of sinks at head height. The airport is also covered in greenery, with the walls of at least two of the terminals partially covered in bromeliads and climbing plants, and of course the Jewel hall with its waterfall (not operational at that time) and forest. It's a very cool airport.
In Singapore the metro is called the MRT, so that's how I'll be referring to it from now on. Having wandered around the airport for a while, it was time to head into town. MRT stations are, you guessed it, also spotless. In the busier ones, they have ushers to direct people and help with inquiries. Every station is spacious and airy, comparable to maybe some of the larger stations on the Elizabeth Line in London for those who are familiar with them. Every single one is like this. The signage is clear, the payment system is intuitive and easy, the trains are clean (unsurprisingly, given the fine for eating or drinking on one is 500 SGD (about 400 USD or 300 GBP). Durian is also banned, somewhat understandably for anyone who has been in the vicinity of one. It's a fairly cheap system relative that of London or Paris too.
The rest of the day was largely devoted to sorting out my stuff and organising myself a little. Was pretty tired as I hadn't slept since early the previous day, but had to hold out until a relatively normal bedtime to not mess up the sleep schedule. Also had a little whistlestop tour of the food around town, and sorted out my eSIM.
Day 2
This was my first day of visiting the city proper. I started with a trip to the
Botanic Gardens. These are pretty lovely - its a very large park, with multiple different zones. The one of greatest interest to me was the Rainforest area, which is pretty much a patch of forest with a boardwalk through it. As I was visiting pretty much in the middle of the day, it wasn't at its most lively (I'm hoping), but I still saw a fair few new species. In addition to the common ones, saw Red-legged crakes here, which was a very nice surprise, plus Slender squirrels.
The gardens as a whole are a bit odd too - a big portion of them are carefully manicured lawns with little robot lawnmowers all over the place, and then there's areas like the rainforest which are largely untouched. The result is some lovely vistas, some wilder places and then some bits that look straight out of a Bond movie to be honest, but it makes a nice ensemble. The orchid garden is (I think) the only paying bit of the garden, and is undoubtedly spectacular, with apparently the largest collection of tropical orchids in the world and some huge or highly rare specimens. It's well worth the visit, although prices are three times higher for foreigners and five times higher for non-students.
Next I took the MRT up to a place called
Singapore Quarry. By and large it's a pretty spectacular place, with possibility of kingfishers, fish eagles and even eagle owls of late. However, I saw none of these as I was visiting in the middle of the day and pretty loud construction was happening in the tree the owl normally hangs out in. Oh well. Now's probably a good time to mention that if visiting Singapore for birding, it pays to join a few of the birding groups, as people post live updates with locations and even advice on which lens to bring, plus general advice for individual species, and the community is very welcoming.
I did, however, see bee eaters, a couple of sunbirds, plus swiftlets. I then walked North for a while to
Dairy Farm Nature reserve. While the walk between the two is on a really wide path, (given the size of the vehicles that used to go to the quarry), the paths in the nature reserve are far more narrow. Here I saw wild boar, a startling experience for both of us really, plus some little ones.
Later on, I headed down to the business district. The CBD is quite impressive. The buildings within are much taller than, say, in London, but none are showy or tall for the sake of it. There are quite a few examples of interesting architecture both among the skyscrapers and more generally in the Marina area. the most poignant and famous example perhaps is the three 'pillared' Marina Bay Sands, which was (at least to me) unexpectedly huge and structurally impressive. The sheer affluence of parts of the city is pretty astounding. I'm pretty sure Singapore has the most malls of any city I've ever been to, as three days in I've been in at least twelve and it seems like there's one every block. It's also a city that is constantly in flux. While the CBD has little more room to grow within its borders, construction is ubiquitous around the island, and many of the developments are relatively recent.
I grabbed something to eat in the Marina Link mall and then had a walk all through the MBS complex, Gardens by the Bay and across the marina to the Eastern side, which I only reached as the sun was setting. This part of the bay is said to be pretty bird-rich, but I pretty much only saw three species (tern, pipit and sea eagle) and none of it seemed particularly conducive to bird life, but I'll give it a second chance later. It does give beautiful views over the bay though, and out into the straits which are packed with tankers and cargo ships, so would recommend either way. And finally capped off the evening with happening onto the supertree light show in the gardens (shown below for those who aren't familiar).
Next up is the zoo and night safari.