Zoo #22 - Bucharest Zoo, 14/5/2017
I'd added Bucharest to the list not on its reputation, of course - it barely has one - and not out of any great expectations. I went purely because I was going to be in Romania for over a week, and I thought I'd give its biggest zoo a chance. I'd gone ready for a potentially unpleasant afternoon but, well, I'll be damned if this isn't a good little zoo.
It's only a small site - about six hectares - and if you look at the zoo map on the website it looks like a whole bunch of boring square grass paddocks. Well, the exhibits are indeed all squares and rectangles, but the zoo is actually very well covered by trees, so it's aesthetically much nicer than I was anticipating. It costs 13 lei - about €3 - to enter but another 13 to take photos. I have a mind to add some to the gallery if they turn out ok so I begrudgingly paid the money. Don't say I never buy you lot anything.
I covered the zoo in a roughly clockwise direction from the front entrance, starting with three Siberian tiger exhibits. This was my first hint that I was in for a good couple of hours because, while they are basic wire mesh constructions, they are large with lots of vegetation and reasonable climbing opportunities. Cats are a specialty here - they have eight species - and all of the big cats in particular have great exhibits, matching or in some cases exceeding the average for their species in Western zoos.
There's an enclosure in the centre of the zoo there's marked for tigers, but now houses a snow leopard (or possibly two). It might not render an impression of the Himalayas, as Zurich does, but it's *massive* considering how often snow leopards get short-changed. A pair of lions have a nice big enclosure, and multiple cages have been consolidated for a jaguar and an Amur leopard (unseen) respectively, so that each has quite a bit more space than they often get.
The same high standard applies to the other big carnivores. The brown beer has another enclosure that wouldn't look out of place in the West - indeed, it reminds me of Melbourne's before it was torn down. It's not massive, but it's complex and has organic features. Bratislava and Madrid might want to take a look. A trio of Arctic wolves have another very generous exhibit: it's heavily forested and probably too muddy (the weather has been sub-tropical here), but it's nothing that couldn't be fixed.
The standard drops somewhat for smaller carnivores. There's a decent serval exhibit that has glass on the front, which I suspect marks it out as one of the newest developments of the zoo. But a Eurasian lynx and a wild cat (unseen) have quite too small cages, and the same could be said for most of the other small carnivores. There are some - for binturong, banded mongoose, fennec fox and genet - that are wholly indoors, and I'd like that to change for the mongooses in particular. There's was a very dark, dingy broom closet. Same goes for the others, but at least they are nocturnal species.
A handful of rodent enclosures are broadly the same standard as the small carnivores, but there's one for a gray squirrel that is very generous indeed. It has a weird structure on the ground that I took to be a maze, but that doesn't make much sense for a species that can very easily just climb over the top.
The ungulates (and ratites) are all arrayed along the back of the zoo in a series of small square paddocks. These are all ok, although there's quite fine mesh used on some that badly impedes viewing. The exotics here are Damara zebras, eland, Barbary sheep, mouflon, fallow deer and roe deer, and there's a bunch of domestics including two enclosures for horses (a Clydesdale or similar in one, and five ponies in another) and all four species of domestic camelid.
I wouldn't suggest moving out of domestics entirely, but they could move things around and add a couple of charismatic exotic species quite readily, I think. As I was playing Zoochat Tycoon in my head I was imagining moving the Clydesdale on, shunting the half a dozen goats from their large, lush paddock into something smaller and getting rid of two of the four camelids (dromedaries and alpacas, for example). From there, the big flock of rhea (about ten, half of them white) could be mixed with the llamas, and there's scope for tapir or capybara to potentially join them. With some rejigging of space I think it would be possible to make room for two giraffes readily enough, which would be an achievable, very big drawcard.
The primate collection is small and maybe slightly troubled by legacy issues. There are standard exhibits for three callitrichids, and two for ring-tailed and red ruffed lemurs. The ring-taileds have a bicycle - yes, a bicycle - in their enclosure. I didn't see them riding it. There are individual green monkeys and Javan macaques and a pair of Hamadryas baboons in typical mid-20th century concrete jungles. The exhibits would be massively improved with some organic substrate - they're ok, otherwise - but my concern here was more that the animals didn't have appropriate social groups. I don't know that that's easily fixed, unfortunately.
Bucharest had more surprises in store when I went into the reptile house: in addition to a handful of very well-done terraria there were also four aquaria, including bichirs, freshwater stingrays and a coral tank. The reptile collection is unremarkable - mostly the standard big constrictors, big lizards, tortoises and a Nile croc - but a blue-tailed monitor and (for non-Australians) a frilled dragon might excite some interest. The only problem exhibit here was for the croc, which has well and truly outgrown its pool.
There's a decent bird collection notable mostly for an immense variety of waterfowl: I counted 22 species that were sign-posted (though didn't find several) and I'm quite sure there were more that didn't have signage. Most of these birds are in a series of aviaries near the Tigers that are densely covered by ivy, so they're quite dark. They have relatively small pools and there were a *lot* of birds in them: probably over 100 ducks and geese across the five cages. They all looked to be in good condition though.
The zoo is taking strong precautions against bird flu: the big mixed group of Dalmatian and white pelicans - probably about 30 birds all told - were shut inside, as were the inhabitants of another mixed waterfowl exhibit and peafowl. A ring of pheasant aviaries were all empty so I'm guessing they were locked away too. A row of raptor and owl aviaries were unaffected.
There's a building called the 'Exotaria' that is basically a bird house, primarily for parrots. Some of the exhibits have lushly-planted outdoor aviaries attached but once again the birds were all shut in. This complex was one of the weakest parts of the zoo. Two of the exhibits seemed massively over-stocked: 43 Quaker parrots were in an office cubicle-sized room, and an identical exhibit housed perhaps as many as 100 lovebirds. I know they're colonial species but it still seemed too much. There were some macaws and eclectus parrots here showing poor feather condition, but apart from that they all looked healthy.
It might look like I'm describing a disappointing zoo. I'm not, I'm picking fault with a genuinely good one. The issues are relatively minor: throw €200,000 at it and most of the problem exhibits - binturong, mongoose, getting some of the parrots outside - are fixed. There's even an existing pool in a state of disrepair that could be fixed up to form a basis for a new croc exhibit.
Bucharest is not going to be a top 50 or even top 100 zoo across Europe, but it would hold its own against most of the smaller private English zoos, for instance. And given the relative poverty of Romania, with what I doubt is a city budget with largesse to splash on the zoo, I suspect that's a fairer comparison, resources-wise, than most other capital city zoos. This isn't a hodgepodge menagerie by any stretch: it's a fully fledged zoo playing the hand it was dealt and doing quite a fine job of it.