Chlidonias Goes To Asia, part eight: East Timor 2025

Maubisse: walking the road to Dili again


This morning I again caught a truck heading north towards Dili because the best forest was that way. As before I stopped at the Gleno junction and walked from there, although today I only covered the stretches of good broadleaf forest at this end and then caught another truck all the way down to Dare.

In contrast to the other day when I was here, this morning there were flocks of Olive-headed Lorikeets flying overhead as soon as I left the truck at the Gleno junction. There seemed to be a lot more birds in general in the first stretch of forest as well (between the Gleno and Manleuana junctions). I was about half an hour earlier than the previous day, but I think the extra birdiness was random chance rather than the time difference.

There were loads of Timor Blue Flycatchers about today. I wouldn’t say there were flocks of them, but certainly they were in “aggregations”, often with multiple birds together in single trees.

I got a glimpse of a flowerpecker with red on its chest which may have been a Timor Flowerpecker but I didn’t see the rump (the more common Red-chested Flowerpecker has a red rump and the endemic Timor Flowerpecker has a black rump, but both have red chests). I haven’t exactly had much success at finding the endemic birds I’ve been after on this trip!

In other non-conclusive possibly-endemic sightings, a large long-tailed bird flew through the trees which I think must have been a pigeon. Two of the endemic pigeons I’m still wanting to see have got long tails (the Timor Black Pigeon and the Timor Cuckoo-Dove). While failing to locate where it landed – I think it had just kept going somewhere down the hill – I instead saw a Tawny Grassbird which is not a forest bird but the other side of the road is open cultivation.


In the second stretch of forest a number of Plain Gerygones were seen (a bird usually just heard), a Wallacean Drongo, and a male Tenggara Whistler.

The Tenggara Whistlers on Timor used to be called Yellow-throated Whistlers (even though they have white throats) because they were treated as a subspecies (calliope) of the Yellow-throated Whistler Pachycephala macrorhyncha of the Moluccas. Recently it has been decided that the Timor subspecies actually belongs to the Rusty-breasted Whistler P. fulvotincta which is found from Java to Sumba, and because calliope is an older name than fulvotincta and has nomenclatural priority the Rusty-breasted Whistler has been renamed as the Tenggara Whistler P. calliope. Rather than gaining an armchair tick with this move I have instead lost a bird because I had already seen P. fulvotincta elsewhere in the Lesser Sundas but, never having been to the Moluccas, I now haven’t seen P. macrorhyncha.


I heard Timor Red-winged Parrots calling but didn’t see any today. There were still lots of Iris Lorikeets though and I even managed to get some better photos than the fuzzy one I took the last time.

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I finally did manage some photos of a Timor Friarbird as well – it was very high in a tree but they didn’t turn out too badly when cropped.

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When I had reached the end of the “good” forest I flagged down the next truck and rode it down to Dare. It was almost noon by this time so my first stop at Dare was the cafe where I ordered a Dare Pizza. Medium pizzas here are US$6 and large are US$12. The medium was the size of a dinner plate. The large must be gigantic. It was very good and I recommend having one at the Dare Cafe if anyone should happen to be visiting East Timor.

There were a few birds seen from the balcony of the cafe while waiting for the pizza, the most common being the Streak-breasted Honeyeater (Dare is the only place I saw this species). White-nest Swiftlets were the first seen in a while (they don’t seem to occur higher up around Maubisse where all the swiftlets were the Drab Swiftlets), and there were also other usual birds like Olive-headed Lorikeets and Sooty-headed Bulbuls.

Rua de Dare, the road which leads up the hill from the cafe, was dead. It was midday and stinking hot. I knew it would be like this, but it’s not much of an issue coming down here – however it really was pointless. The only birds seen here which I hadn’t seen earlier in the day were the White-nest Swiftlets, Streak-breasted Honeyeaters, a Helmeted Friarbird, and a Red-chested Flowerpecker.




There were 21 species of birds seen today:

Olive-headed Lorikeet, Iris Lorikeet, Drab Swiftlet, White-nest Swiftlet, Wallacean Cuckoo-Shrike, White-shouldered Triller, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Tawny Grassbird, Tenggara Whistler, Timor Blue Flycatcher, Pied Chat, Ashy-bellied White-eye, Red-chested Flowerpecker, Plain Gerygone, Streak-breasted Honeyeater, Yellow-eared Honeyeater, Black-chested Myzomela, Helmeted Friarbird, Timor Friarbird, Tree Sparrow, Wallacean Drongo.
 
Maubisse: more of the same


One of the things with using local transportation in southeast Asia is that it doesn’t necessarily have departure times. They go when they go. If there are people to fill the truck it goes now, if there aren’t then it goes later. For some reason there were very few people around this morning, so I was sitting waiting for longer than desired. Funnily enough, the truck I took to the Gleno turn-off today was the same one I took yesterday morning (and also the same one which I’d caught at Dare when coming back up to Maubisse, which must have confused the driver).

Today was also unusually hot. Not anywhere near as hot as it would be down in Dili, of course, but much hotter than the previous days in Maubisse.

I had a little bit of a tweak in my plan for today. Instead of walking from the Gleno junction towards Dili, I had decided I would walk along the other road towards Gleno itself and see what I’d find that way. I didn’t stick with this plan. The road turned out to be a dirt road and was oddly busy, with trucks and motorbikes going by constantly in clouds of dust, and the surrounds looked like they were going to be open and not forest, so I abandoned the idea within a short distance and just stuck with what I knew lay on the Dili road.

There were, as yesterday, flocks of Olive-headed Lorikeets flying past, and the usual white-eyes, bulbuls and honeyeaters. A less-expected bird was a Brahminy Kite soaring overhead, a bird my mind associates with the sea and not mountains. Just as unexpected was an Indonesian Honeyeater a bit later (at the Manleuana junction), which is supposed to be “mainly coastal”. I think all the birds in East Timor must be screwy.

The first section of forest (to the Manleuana junction) was quieter than yesterday but gave me a new bird for the trip with an Orange-sided Thrush which is endemic to the island. A few metres further along I saw a grey and white flycatcher which I couldn’t identify. From my annotated checklist I guessed it as a female Little Pied Flycatcher, but it would have to wait until I was back in Australia in a couple of days to check it online and confirm it.

I only saw two or three Timor Blue Flycatchers this morning, even though they were everywhere yesterday.


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Yellow-eared Honeyeater at the Manleuana junction.


On my other walks along this road I’d fancied I had heard Marigold Lorikeets calling, and maybe even seen some flying between the tree-tops which looked bigger than the Olive-headed Lorikeets. To my ear the Marigold Lorikeets sound like Rainbow Lorikeets whereas the Olive-headed Lorikeets sound “different”, but if I can’t see the birds then I don’t know if I’m actually correct or not, and when you add Iris Lorikeets in as well (which are also Trichoglossus lorikeets with similar screechy calls) then it gets confusing! Also there’s the fact that I considered Marigold Lorikeets to be lowland birds because the Wallacea field guide has their altitude range as “up to 500m” and I was about twice high as that.

But, I was right and the book was wrong. Stupid books. Can’t trust ‘em.

I heard lorikeets screeching nearby, thought “hang about chaps, that sounds like Marigold Lorikeets!” and when I peered into the bushes just off the road where the sound was coming from a group of lorikeets flew out and, luckily, perched in another low tree where I could still see them. Not only could I still them but they stayed put long enough for me to sneak closer and actually take some photos. Not an everyday occurrence when it comes to birds in East Timor!

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Today I just stuck with the broadleaf forest patches, walking (very slowly) to where they ended and then back the same way. On the walk back I scared a little bird which had been feeding on the ground just down the bank off the road. It flew in an arc and landed further ahead, right at the base of a tree where I could still see it. It was a parrotfinch, but not a Tricoloured Parrotfinch like I’d seen on Atauro Island. It was the undescribed Gunung Mutis Parrotfinch, which is probably the bird I’d have voted as “most likely not to be seen”. This bird was first discovered on Gunung Mutis in West Timor but is also found in the highlands elsewhere on the island. Amazingly I even got a photo of it. It’s not a good photo but it’s not as bad as it looked on the camera screen.

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The parrotfinch flew behind the tree but then reappeared amongst the canes of the red-flowered thicket which can be seen on the edge of the photo. It started feeding while hopping between the branches but the other photos I took just showed bits and pieces of the birds between the leaves and twigs.

Another bird visiting the flowers while I was trying to photograph the parrotfinch was a female Flame-breasted Sunbird (“up to 750m”).



I had been going to continue walking from the Gleno junction back towards Aileu (which is on the same road which runs back to Maubisse) because there were patches of forest along there as well, but it was hotter than I’d been anticipating so I gave up on that and just caught a truck back instead.

This was my last day of birding for East Timor. I would be taking a truck tomorrow morning to Dili and then heading to the airport for a 3.35pm flight back to Australia. I wasn’t going to be seeing any more new birds, certainly none of the endemic ones I’d been looking for over the last two weeks, but I was thinking I’d probably be able to get to the Tasi Tolu lakes before the flight given that they are just along the road a bit from the airport.




There were 27 species of birds seen today:

Brahminy Kite, Timor Red-winged Parrot, Marigold Lorikeet, Olive-headed Lorikeet, Iris Lorikeet, Drab Swiftlet, Wallacean Cuckoo-Shrike, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Orange-sided Thrush, Fawn-breasted Whistler, Tenggara Whistler, Timor Blue Flycatcher, Little Pied Flycatcher, Northern Fantail, Supertramp Fantail, Pied Chat, Ashy-bellied White-eye, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Plain Gerygone, Indonesian Honeyeater, Yellow-eared Honeyeater, Black-chested Myzomela, Timor Friarbird, Gunung Mutis Parrotfinch, Tree Sparrow, Wallacean Drongo, Large-billed Crow.
 
Leaving East Timor


My flight to Darwin was at 3.35pm. It’s only three hours between Maubisse and Dili so I had plenty of time. I was planning on arriving at the airport a couple of hours before the flight, checking in my pack, and then catching a microlet a few minutes up the road to the Tasi Tolu lakes for a last bit of bird-watching. I wasn’t going to see any lifers there but I might add some extra birds to my East Timor list.

I caught a truck in Maubisse at 8.30am, arriving at the roundabout in Dili at 11.30am (this is the roundabout where I got a motorbike to Dare at the start of the trip). There was a little restaurant just by that junction so I stopped for lunch. The meal cost US$2.50 and I should have taken a photo of it for this thread but I forgot. I recommend this restaurant though if anyone should be by that roundabout.

Then I caught a #9 microlet to the airport. The microlets don’t go into the airport, they just pass by on the main road and you walk the extra few minutes up the entry road.

I got there at 12.30pm. I figured the check-in desk for the Qantas flight would open at around 1pm and then I’d have maybe 1.5 hours of free time for Tasi Tolu. Unfortunately the Dili airport doesn’t work like that because it is so small. Once you check in, you never check out.

I didn’t feel like walking all round Tasi Tolu with my big pack on my back – it was very hot in Dili – so I just waited at the airport until the check-in opened. I had $2.15 in Timorese coins left in my wallet which weren’t of use anywhere else in the world. I used it to buy a $2 cup of coffee.

It would have worked out better to have stayed in Dili for the final night, then I could have gone to Tasi Tolu in the morning and afterwards picked up my bags from the hotel and had a shower before going to the airport.

The check-in was an interesting procedure. Because there are so few flights a day there is just one check-in area with I think two “desks” where you check in any bags and get your boarding pass. With this done you can’t go back out the way you came in, you have to follow a corridor with paper arrows stuck on the walls to the departures waiting area. There were no fans in here and I was thinking this was going to be a sweaty two-hour wait, but at 1.30pm a van came by and the passengers were loaded into this and driven for thirty seconds to the rear of the building where immigration was. Here the carry-on bags were X-rayed, passports stamped, and then sit down for more waiting. This room had A/C but it also had mosquitoes. Six of one and half a dozen of the other, as they say.

I had read that there was a US$10 leaving town tax, which there wasn’t. Departure taxes are weird - it’s like you can’t stay in the country because you’re on a tourist visa, but they still make you pay to leave.

The flight had about twenty passengers, same as my incoming flight, and 1.5 hours later I was back in Darwin where there was a heat-wave in progress: Chlidonias presents: Bustralia
 
GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION FOR EAST TIMOR:



Getting there: there are daily flights between Darwin and Dili with Qantas, and also three times a week (I think) with Air North. I flew with Qantas which cost me AU$700 return. Fares are obviously variable according to when you book, the days of the week, etc, but both airlines are about the same in price.

I was originally going to use Air North just because it would be a new airline for me but they never bothered replying to an email I sent them so I went with Qantas instead.

There are also direct flights from some other cities in Asia – at least Singapore and Bali. The cheapest way to get there is by bus from Kupang in West Timor, but you have to be in West Timor first to do that!



Money: East Timor uses the US Dollar, but has its own coins (for $2 and below). I never used an ATM but had read that they only accept Visa (maybe Mastercard at some ATMs), and that they are unreliable. I did meet two ladies from Darwin who had ATMs swallow both their Wise card and their Visa card, and they were now stuck without cash. Everywhere uses cash. Maybe some fancy hotel might take payment with a credit card or via a phone app but otherwise you need cash. Even if booking a hotel online you generally still pay in cash on arrival.

I changed Australian dollars for US Dollars in Darwin before coming here because that seemed like the safest option, even though you lose money in the transaction. I over-estimated how much I would need though because I didn’t know where I would be staying (I got US$700 and used US$540 over the two weeks).

An interesting little quirk is that even though (apart for hotels) almost everything is paid for in coins, nowhere seems to have coins for change. You’ll be in a passenger-truck which costs a few dollars and everyone is paying in coins but somehow if you pay with a $10 note the driver has to scavenge around for change. Same in restaurants where meals are $2 or $3 and everyone pays in coins, but at the counter they don’t ever seem to have coins to give as change. The only places which seem to consistently have change are the supermarkets.

The most “valuable” notes to have are $5 ones because these are closest to coins in value. $50 and even $20 notes are basically useless for a solo traveller except for hotels, and taxis if you use those.



Hotels: East Timor is said to be an expensive destination, and compared to the rest of southeast Asia it definitely is (because of their use of the US Dollar), but if you’re coming from Australia then it is still “cheap” in comparison. The two main causes of expense are the hotels, and taxis if you use them (e.g. the ride from the airport, which is maybe three minutes, is US$10 but they will ask for US$15). Hotels in Dili can be hundreds of dollars a night if you want to pay that. The cheap hotels are generally around US$25 to $30 a night, so they don’t break the bank (basically the cost of a dorm bed in Australia). The best value are the homestays which are US$25 but have all the meals included. I stayed at four different places:

Dili: Casa Minha Hostel, 8-11 Oct (3 nights, single fan-room, including breakfast): US$14 per night. They also had an A/C single room for US$25, and A/C dorm room for US$12 a bed per night. [booked through Booking. com beforehand, and paid on arrival]

Atauro Island: Estevao’s Homestay, 11-15 Oct (4 nights, single fan-room, including all meals): US$25 per night. [not booked – just turned up]

Dili: Chong Ti Hotel, 15-16 Oct (1 night, single A/C room): US$30 per night. [not booked – just turned up]

Maubisse: Bensa Au Ama, 16-23 Oct (7 nights, single room, including breakfast): US$25 per night. [not booked – just turned up]



Food: depends where you eat! There are street vendors everywhere selling fried chicken (cooked on the spot) which is 25 cents per piece, and in the morning there are people selling fried banana and other things for 5 cents per piece. The little street restaurants are cheap too, with bakso (a sort of noodle soup with meat balls) or mie goreng (fried noodles) being US$1.50 for example. At the restaurant I ate at in Maubisse (under the Sara Guesthouse) basic meals were around US$1.50 to $3. When I went to Timor Plaza (a mall in Dili) there is a food court where meals are around US$6-10 (I didn’t eat there). There’s even a Burger King but I don’t know how much that is. All round Dili there are carts loaded with drinking coconuts which are US$1. The best food I had was at Estevao’s Homestay on Atauro Island, which was included in the room cost.



Internet: I didn’t have internet but it is easily available on your phone by getting a local Sim card for a few dollars, either at the airport when you arrive or at the Timor Plaza mall (which is dedicated almost entirely to mobile phones!). I just didn’t need it. Not being connected to the internet is probably an anathema to most people but I was only there for two weeks and I didn’t want to spend the money on something for which the only thing I’d “really” need it for was booking accommodation – and I didn’t even need that because I just turned up at each place and it worked out fine. I would have much preferred having internet on my laptop but there is almost no Wifi anywhere – if you want internet you need to get it with a Sim card. The Chong Ti Hotel had Wifi but it wouldn’t connect.

In hindsight (i.e. when looking at eBird lists when I was back in Australia) internet would have been very helpful for finding locations on there for various birds I didn’t see, and also for being able to see satellite views on Google for where forest was.



Electricity: East Timor uses type I sockets (the three-pin plugs used in New Zealand and Australia) and type C, E and F sockets (round two-pin plugs such as are used in Indonesia and Europe). Both the hotels I stayed at in Dili had multi-purpose sockets which would take any of these, but on Atauro Island and in Maubisse they just had the two-pin sockets. I had an Indonesian adaptor with me so no problems.
 
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Photos of snacks in Maubisse. I like trying things like this in different countries. Sometimes I like them and sometimes I don’t.

The Kalpa is a wafer bar covered in chocolate and coconut, so the outside tastes like a Snowball. It is therefore good.

The Keju Puffs are like Twisties but not the same cheese flavour as in NZ – didn’t like them at all. Oddly enough I bought some other thing labelled as being made from corn and in the shape of cubes which tasted much more like NZ Twisties, which made me question what Twisties are actually made from.

The PotatoQ chips are 2020 edition “OK See U” and (I didn’t realise when I bought them) Sosis Meksiko flavour (Mexican Sausage) – I thought they were just going to be regular chips, didn’t much like the taste.

And finally the Yupi Fruity Puffs are soft, a bit like jubes, slightly sour. They have a taste (separate from the individual flavours of each lolly) that is common in Asian lollies but I can never place it. It’s probably something really addictive because I quite like it even though it is a weird taste. In this bag there are pink and green flavours which I like, and a yellow one which I don’t care for.
 

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And a selection of bottled water which I bought while staying in Maubisse. All of them are 50 cents, regardless of brand. The price is also the same where-ever you buy it, whether in a big supermarket or from a stall by the side of the road. Australia could learn from this.
 

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Getting there: there are daily flights between Darwin and Dili with Qantas, and also three times a week (I think) with Air North. I flew with Qantas which cost me AU$700 return. Fares are obviously variable according to when you book, the days of the week, etc, but both airlines are about the same in price.

I was originally going to use Air North just because it would be a new airline for me but they never bothered replying to an email I sent them so I went with Qantas instead.
I wouldn't recommend Air North. I flew Darwin to Kununurra with them in 2023, and it was the most uncomfortable flight I have ever been on (although I will admit that I dislike flying anyway).
 
@Chlidonias For all the time and effort that you put into East Timor, do you feel that the trip there was worthwhile?
Yeah, absolutely. Everywhere I go is worthwhile. Except Hong Kong, obviously. But, generally speaking, even if I don't particularly like a country (say, New Caledonia) or if things all just fall apart when I'm there (say, Vanuatu), the trip is still worthwhile. I still see new birds and have interesting experiences.

For East Timor I could have done with another week to go to the east of the island - so basically I could have used more time. And there wasn't a lot of "effort" involved in it. I'd just go somewhere and then walk a lot, but that's all my trips in a nutshell.
 
MAMMALS:

I saw a few different mammals while in East Timor, but none of them were identified!

One morning in Dili I saw what I presume was an extremely large rat on the beach when I was passing in a microlet. It must have been a rat but it looked big enough to be a bandicoot.

On the ferry crossings to Atauro Island I saw dolphins on the way over, and a dolphin and a whale on the way back, but all were too brief to know what they were specifically.

On Atauro I heard fruit bats one night in or near the garden of the homestay but didn’t see them. There are several species on Timor, and apart for the Black Flying Fox any others would have been new for me. I asked Estevao if they roosted near the village but he said they are “in the mountains” and come down at night to feed on the mangos.

I also saw microbats around the homestay at night, catching moths by the lights.
 
BIRDS:

I saw 78 bird species while in East Timor. For the benefit of anyone else who may go there, I have made notes on where I saw each species.

I only went to three places other than Dili (the city). First was Dare which is in the hills above Dili at c.500m (the internet has various opinions on the altitude), and is scrubby forest. Second was Atauro Island, which is mostly scrub and lowland eucalyptus woodland. Third was the village of Maubisse which is c.1500m (the internet gives me different altitudes, but somewhere around 1400 to 1500m).

Around Maubisse is field cultivation and coffee plantations (under some sort of needle-leaf tree, maybe a kind of cypress). From Maubisse I went up and down either side and walked along the roads. To the south I went as high as Hato Builico at c.2000m (this is eucalyptus woodland), and to the north along the road to Dili there was coffee under broadleaf forest in patches between eucalyptus woodland and cleared cultivation (the relevant broadleaf areas were between the Gleno and Manleuana junctions off the Dili road, and then a bit further along after the Manleuana junction, probably c.1000m in elevation).




Australian Little Grebe Tachybaptus novaehollandiae: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Great Egret Egretta alba: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Little Egret Egretta garzetta: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Eastern Reef Egret Egretta sacra: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Red-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Red-capped Dotterel Charadrius ruficapillus: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Sharp-tailed Sandpiper Calidris acuminata: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Pied Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Great Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Australian Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon macrotarsa: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Australian Pelican Pelecanus conspicillatus: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Little Pied Cormorant Microcarbo melanoleucos: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris: at Tasi Tolu lakes (Dili)

Bonelli’s Eagle Aquila fasciata: a pair seen on the edge of the eucalyptus woodland on the road to Hato Builico

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: one seen in the hills by the Gleno junction

Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis: one seen on Atauro island

Feral Pigeon Columba livia: Dili

Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis: common on Atauro island, otherwise only one bird seen in the farmland at the start of the Hato Builico road

Black-banded Fruit Dove Ptilinopus cinctus: a pair seen on Atauro island

Rose-crowned Fruit Dove Ptilinopus regina: a pair seen on Atauro island

Pacific Emerald Dove Chalcophaps longirostris: one seen at Dare, and two on Atauro island

Barred Dove Geopelia maugei: only seen in the lowlands at Dili (Peace Park and on the waterfront), at Dare, and on Atauro island

Timor Red-winged Parrot Aprosmictus jonquillaceus: common in the broadleaf forest patches along the hill road after the Manleuana junction. I saw small flocks on the first day I walked there; heard but didn’t see them the second time; and saw one pair the third time. Heard but not seen on Atauro island.

Marigold Lorikeet Trichoglossus capistratus: seen at Dare (above Dili) and when walking the road after the Manleuana junction. I "think" I heard them several times along the road after the Gleno and Manleuana junctions but I wouldn't swear to it (they sound like Rainbow Lorikeets to me, and therefore different to the other two lorikeets, but if I don't see them then I don't know if I'm actually correct or not!) - they are definitely along there though because I did see and photograph them on one day. I was told by the owner of my homestay that they were on Atauro Island but I didn't see or hear them there.

Olive-headed Lorikeet Trichoglossus euteles: common on Atauro Island, at Dare, and frequently seen when walking along the road in the hills towards Dili. One individual bird was seen in the eucalyptus woodland on the road to Hato Builico. None around Maubisse itself.

Iris Lorikeet Trichoglossus iris: common in the broadleaf forest patches along the hill road after the Manleuana junction. I saw small flocks every day I walked there (three days).

Sunda Cuckoo Cuculus lepidus: one seen in the forest after the Gleno junction

Little Bronze Cuckoo Chalcites minutillus: one pair seen in the forest after the Manleuana junction

Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris: only seen on Atauro island

Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus: only seen on Atauro island

Drab Swiftlet Collocalia neglecta: common everywhere

White-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus: common in the lowlands – I didn’t see any in the hills

Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: one seen at Dili Port

Tree Martin Petrochelidon nigricans: common at Dare and in the hills – I’m sure I saw them on Atauro island as well but didn’t note them down (or ignored them amongst the swiftlets)

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: seen lower down in the hills (on the road towards Dili), and in the farmland at the start of the Hato Builico road

Singing Bushlark Mirafra javanica: one seen on Atauro island

Wallacean Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina personata: seen everywhere (Dare, Atauro, and all the hill sites)

Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: common everywhere except Atauro island where not seen at all

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: one seen on the road to Hato Builico

White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii: seen everywhere

Orange-sided Thrush Geokichla peronii: one seen in the forest near the Gleno junction

Pied Chat Saxicola caprata: common everywhere

Timor (White-bellied) Chat Saxicola gutturalis: only seen at Dare

Sunda Bush-Warbler Cettia vulcania: common in the scrub along the dry riverbed in Maubisse

Tawny Grassbird Cincloramphus timorensis: one seen by the Gleno junction

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis : seen on Atauro island

Timor Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus presbytes: only one seen, in the eucalyptus woodland on the Hato Builico road

Fawn-breasted Whistler Pachycephala orpheus: common everywhere in forest

Tenggara Whistler Pachycephala calliope: seen a few times along the hill road between the Gleno junction and Dili

Northern Fantail Rhipidura rufiventris: seen at Dare, common in the woodland on the road to Hato Builico, and also seen in the forest after the Manleuana junction

Supertramp Fantail Rhipidura semicollaris: on Atauro island and anywhere there was forest in the hills

Spectacled Monarch Monarcha trivirgatus: seen once at Dare

Timor Blue Flycatcher Cyornis hyacinthinus: only seen in the hill forests, where it was common

Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: seen twice (male and female) in the forest between the Gleno and Manleuana junctions

Plain Gerygone Gerygone inornata: heard everywhere, seen a few times

Ashy-bellied White-eye Zosterops citrinella: common everywhere

Red-chested Flowerpecker Dicaeum maugei: only seen for sure at Dare and on Atauro, but unidentified flowerpeckers were seen in the hills as well (there are two similar species on Timor)

Flame-breasted Sunbird Cinnyris solaris: seen several times on Atauro island and once in the hills after the Manleuana junction

Streak-breasted Honeyeater Meliphaga reticulata: only seen at Dare, where it was common

Indonesian Honeyeater Lichmera limbata: common on Atauro island, seen a couple of times at Dare, and one bird seen in the hills at the Manleuana junction

Yellow-eared Honeyeater Lichmera flavicans: seen a few times at Dare, but very common everywhere higher up in the hills

Black-breasted Myzomela Myzomela vulnerata: seen everywhere except on Atauro island

Timor Friarbird Philemon inornatus: common at Dare and all through the hill forests

Helmeted Friarbird Philemon buceroides: common on Atauro island, seen a couple of times at Dare, and one on the road to Hato Builico

Timor Oriole Oriolus melanotis: seen once (male) at Dare and once (female) at Maubisse

White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus: common everywhere

Nutmeg Finch Lonchura punctulata: seen once (flock) in Beloi village on Atauro island

Timor Zebra Finch Taeniopygia guttata: common on Atauro island

Tricoloured Parrotfinch Erythrura tricolor: one bird seen in Beloi village on Atauro island

Gunung Mutis Parrotfinch (undescribed) Erythrura sp.: one bird seen in the forest after the Manleuana junction

Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: everywhere in towns and villages

Wallacean Drongo Dicrurus densus: seen at Dare and in the forests along the hill roads

Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: only seen in the hills, and always singly
 
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