Chlidonias Goes To Asia, part five: 2016-2017

FBBird Pheasant Tally

1) Blue Peafowl Pavo cristatus
2) Sri Lankan Junglefowl Gallus lafayetii
3) Grey Junglefowl Gallus sonneratii

4) Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos
5) Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus
6) Grey Peacock-pheasant Polyplectron bicalcaratum
7) Germain's Peacock-pheasant Polyplectron germaini
8) Silver Pheasant Lophura nycthemera

9) Crested Fireback Lophura ignita
10) Malayan Peacock-pheasant Polyplectron malacense
 
KUALA SELANGOR TAMAN ALAM

After Taman Negara I headed back to Kuala Lumpur. I was planning on going right through to Melaka, partly because I like staying there better than stinky old Kuala Lumpur and partly so I could revisit the Melaka Zoo and see how it has progressed (or otherwise) in the last few years since I last saw it in a sad state. It is easy enough to get to Melaka from Taman Negara. You just bus to Jerantut, and then on to the Pekaliling bus station in Kuala Lumpur, and then take the train over to the TBS bus terminal from where the buses to Melaka leave.

However there was a certain issue which cancelled this plan. Unbeknownst to myself, or to any of the other tourists coming from Taman Negara, today was the last day of a public holiday long-weekend. There were a few of us on the bus to Jerantut and when we got there we discovered that the buses to KL were all booked. For the whole day. There were some mini-van guys there saying they could take people to KL for 40 Ringgits because there was no way anyone was getting a bus today. This was plainly your typical Asian-transport scam where the taxi or van drivers tell you that they are the only means of transport. Turns out it wasn't a scam. Sometimes that happens!

I asked around the ticket offices and discovered that we could catch a bus to Temberloh and from there multiple bus companies ran routes to KL. It wouldn't be a problem. The bus to Temberloh was only 6.60 Ringgits and took about an hour and a half. Everything in Temberloh was booked! It was incredible. I've never come across such a situation before. There were several bus companies at the station, all running buses every half an hour throughout the day. Every single office had "fully booked" signs stuck up on their windows. Literally the only way to get to KL was by taxi - and from here they were asking 200 Ringgits.

A taxi could only take four people and there were five of us. While I scouted around to see if there were any mini-vans around (there weren't!) two of the people left in a taxi, which brought us down to three. There wasn't really any other option. All of us had already booked that night's accommodation in KL, so we couldn't just stay here overnight. We found a lone local heading to KL to make a fourth person, I bargained the fare down to 160 Ringgits, and we set off.

The place I had booked was called the Matahari Lodge. Basically I just wanted to be sure of finding a cheap place without walking around for ages in the heat. It turned out to be in a good location, literally a couple of minutes walk from the Pasar Seni train station, with the KL Sentral station one stop away in one direction and the Masjid Jamek station one stop in the other direction. The hostel itself, perhaps not so good. I would describe it as "basic" - and if I call something basic it is really basic! I wouldn't recommend it.

The door to the street is on a magnetic lock but the code is stuck up on the door - why even have the door locked if the code is right there? Free breakfast comes with the room, starting at 7am. I went down at 7am and there was nothing in the kitchen except piles of rubbish, dirty dishes and old food. There were several presumably-drunk people passed out on couches, including the Australian reception guy. I managed to rouse him and asked if breakfast was indeed at 7am. "In a few hours" he mumbled. What? "In a few hours... at 7am in the morning" "It's 7am now." "Oh..." He stumbled away, came back with an armful of bread, jam and coffee, dumped it amongst the filth on the kitchen table, and staggered back to collapse on the couch. The bread was stale. Not even day-old stale, but stiff.

Because I was in KL instead of Melaka I had been going to go to Zoo Negara today. When I last went, in 2013, it was 50 Ringgits. Before heading off I thought I'd just check that. The price is now 85 Ringgits - more than a 50% increase! No doubt this is due to the arrival of their giant pandas. I didn't want to spend that much money - 85 Ringgits is about NZ$30. I checked the price for the KL Bird Park - 67 Ringgits (about NZ$22). For comparison, the Taiping Zoo is 17 Ringgits and the Penang Bird Park is 38 Ringgits.

I decided I might just stay at the hostel and write the Taman Negara blog-post. That seemed like a good plan. Lum-te-tum. Mucking around on the internet. Wait - I could go to Kuala Selangor! The white-thighed langur I had seen at Taman Negara was the 29th primate of this trip. I could get silvered langur at Kuala Selangor to make an even 30.

................................

It was already 9am because I'd been wasting time, and it is almost two hours to Kuala Selangor but I went anyway. Even at midday I should get a few new year-birds along with the silvered langurs. It is very easy to get to from KL. You just take the train to Masjid Jamek station (one stop from where I was staying, handily enough) and then catch a bus from the Medan Pasar stop round the corner. Last time I went there it was a bus number 141 to Kuala Selangor. Now it is bus number 107. I don't know why I bother noting what the bus numbers are when I'm travelling around in Asia - every time you go back they've changed the numbering system.

It is Ramadan at the moment, so few eateries are open during the day. When I got to Kuala Selangor I popped into the Pizza Hut - the western places are always open - and they had pizzas for ten Ringgits (a little over NZ$3). I remembered it being a fair distance from the town to the reserve (Kuala Selangor Taman Alam means "Kuala Selangor Nature Park") so took a taxi there for another ten Ringgits. It was barely over a kilometre, so on the return I just walked it.

The reserve at Kuala Selangor is a mangrove habitat. Silvered langurs and crab-eating macaques are 100% reliable there - either in the reserve itself or at the temple above the reserve where people feed them. There are photos in the Malaysia Wildlife Gallery from an earlier visit. It is also a good spot for smooth-coated otters which I saw one of last time (my first wild otter) but none this time although I did see fresh prints.

Surprisingly there were few mosquitoes around, which was lucky as I'd forgotten to bring any repellent with me. It was really really hot though. It wasn't too long before I spotted a silvered langur, with a few more later in the day. Curiously, when you see the langurs in the reserve they act pretty shy, and yet those same langurs will go up to the temple and literally tug on your trousers in the hope of food.

Despite being close to midday there were still a lot of birds around, although the tide was out so the pools were just mud with no waders or herons present. I wanted to find a mangrove whistler which was easy enough on the mangrove walkway, but as always I failed to find a mangrove pitta. There was a nice bird-wave in the mangroves too, with species like Oriental white-eye, ashy tailorbird, great tit and brown-throated sunbird.
 
Primates I have seen on this trip, in the order they were seen (the bold ones were lifers).


Peninsular Malaysia (part one):
1) Siamang Symphalangus syndactylus
2) Dusky Langur Trachypithecus obscurus (and also later in Thailand)
3) Sunda Slow Loris Nycticebus coucang
4) Crab-eating Macaque Macaca fascicularis (and also later in Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam)

Borneo:
5) Southern Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina (and also later in Peninsular Malaysia)

India (part one):
6) Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta (and also later in Vietnam)

Sri Lanka:
7) Tufted Grey Langur Semnopithecus priam
(and also later in India)
8) Toque Macaque Macaca sinica
9) Purple-faced Langur Trachypithecus vetulus
10) Grey Slender Loris Loris lydekkerianus

India (part two):
11) Bonnet Macaque Macaca radiata
12) Nilgiri Langur Trachypithecus johnii
13) Black-footed Grey Langur Semnopithecus hypoleucos
14) Lion-tailed Macaque Macaca silenus
15) Southern Plains Grey Langur Semnopithecus dussumieri
16) Chamba Sacred Langur Semnopithecus ajax

Thailand:

17) Banded Leaf Monkey Presbytis femoralis
18) White-handed (Lar) Gibbon Hylobates lar

Cambodia:
19) Pileated Gibbon Hylobates pileatus

Vietnam:
20) Indochinese Silvered Langur Trachypithecus germaini

21) Black-shanked Douc Pygathrix nigripes
22) Annamese Silvered Langur Trachypithecus margarita
23) Southern Buff-cheeked Gibbon Nomascus gabriellae
24) Red-shanked Douc Pygathrix naemeus
25) Stump-tailed Macaque Macaca arctoides
*Annamite (Northern Buff-cheeked) Gibbon Nomascus annamensis - call only
26) Hatinh Langur Trachypithecus hatinhensis
27) Delacour's Langur Trachypithecus delacouri

Thailand (part two):

28) Northern Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca leonina

Peninsular Malaysia (part two):
29) White-thighed Langur Presbytis siamensis
30) Silvered Langur Trachypithecus cristatus
 
DavidBrown Shoe Fauna Alert
Number .... two? I haven't kept track. I think it's only two. The tropics really are disappointingly uneventful for lethal invertebrates climbing into ones' shoes.

You should check the Yelp reviews of your shoes that the lethal invertebrates are leaving. Scorpions are known for leaving venomous reviews. It may explain your lack of popularity.
 
After Kuala Selangor, the next morning I flew to Melbourne.

Oh. Wait. That's the end of the trip! That was sudden.

So, yes, now I'm in Australia.

I'll put up some round-up posts some time soon.
 
And now I'm back in Thailand.

The air hostesses on Vietjet have a uniform which looks like a boy scout outfit. Just to be clear, I don't have any attraction towards boy scouts. The male air hostesses (air hosts? - what are male air hostesses called?)...

They are all called "flight attendants". "air hostesses" went out with Madmen, Oh, sorry, I forgot, New Zealand...
 
yeah I don't buy that at all.

If I ask a girl what she does for a job and she says "I'm a flight attendant" and I say "what's that?" and she says "I bring drinks to people on planes" then I would just say "so you're an air hostess then?" and she would mumble "yes".

It's like a zoo keeper being called a facilitator for animals in human care. Or a butcher being a meat preparation expert. Political correctness gone mad I tell you.
 
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yeah I don't buy that at all.

If I ask a girl what she does for a job and she says "I'm a flight attendant" and I say "what's that?" and she says "I bring drinks to people on planes" then I would just say "so you're an air hostess then?" and she would mumble "yes".

It's like a zoo keeper being called a facilitator for animals in human care. Or a butcher being a meat preparation expert. Political correctness gone mad I tell you.


I find this "moderator" label outmoded. We are electronic conversation facilitators.

Was "air hostess" an English-Australian thing? In America we called them stewardesses before they became flight attendants.
 
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It's like a zoo keeper being called a facilitator for animals in human care.

I think "care-giver" is the latest term for a zookeeper.

:p

Hix
 
I find this "moderator" label outmoded. We are electronic conversation facilitators.

Was "air hostess" an English-Australian thing? In America we called them stewardesses before they became flight attendants.

I think if you go back far enough you will find the American use of Air Hostess as well, although certainly Stewardess became the prevalent term. Back when I started flying in the early '80's in Australia we had Air Hostesses (or Hosties for short) on domestic flights by TAA and Ansett the two airlines then flying, and male Stewards on Qantas the international airline.
 
so yes, the trip is over. I am now back in New Zealand. Once again homeless and penniless, just like everybody else. Well, just like the homeless and penniless people at least.

I have some plans for future trips but I need to work out the details. Like, how to afford it.

Until then, following are some stats for the trip I've just finished.
 
COUNTRY STATS:


MALAYSIA (part one):

I've been to Malaysia a number of times, and I could keep going back. There is so much wildlife there, especially in Borneo, although most of what I see are species I've already seen. I would always recommend Malaysia as a good destination for wildlife-enthusiasts.

*1192.10 Ringgits spent over eleven days (NZ$397.50, US$284.85, UK£232.90, €261.70)
*Average spent per day: NZ$36.10, US$25.90, UK£21.20, €23.80

*114 birds seen, 2 lifers (c.2 percent of total)
*23 mammals seen, 2 lifers (c.9 percent of total)


INDIA (part one):

I really enjoyed the first round of India. It was mostly spent in Ladakh, which I loved. There's something about wandering around in the mountains alone which is just fantastic. Delhi was okay - I didn't hate it.

*43,068 Indian rupees spent over 25 days (NZ$896, US$635.50, UK£507.50, €590.50)
*Average spent per day: NZ$35.80, US$25.40, UK£20.30, €23.60

*95 birds seen, 14 lifers (c.15 percent of total)
*9 mammals seen, 4 lifers (c.44 percent of total)
(The low animal numbers are because most of the time was spent in Ladakh)


SRI LANKA:

I loved Sri Lanka. Wow, it was a fantastic place for wildlife. The people were all friendly, the animals often easy to find, the travel conditions good. There were some species I missed like sloth bears which I was hoping for but I'm not complaining. Strangely I don't have any great desire to go back there, unlike many of the places I've been in southeast Asia. I think I got all I needed from Sri Lanka. I would totally recommend it to everyone else though.

*87,626 Sri Lankan rupees spent over 26 days (NZ$829.60, US$594.45, UK£470.75, €561.10)
*Average spent per day: NZ$31.90, US$22.85, UK£18.10, €21.60

*158 birds seen, 64 lifers (c.40 percent of total)
*25 mammals seen, 18 lifers (c.72 percent of total)


INDIA (part two):

Round two of India was a real mixed bag. Demonetisation really impacted on the trip, making it much more frustrating than it might otherwise have been. But it did mean that Sri Lanka got inserted into the plan, and I can't complain about that! Some parts of India I loved or liked, other parts not so much. I loved Ladakh which is Tibetan; I liked Kerala which is more like Sri Lanka; I liked Gujarat which is not proper India either. The rest of it was tolerable. I can't see me going back to India. I knew going in that I'd go one of two ways, either leaving thinking it was great or leaving thinking it was horrible. I would like to go back to Ladakh in the spring or summer, because then it is easier to get around to more places and I could see some cool species like kiang, but at that time of year it is also absolutely crawling with other tourists and I think that would ruin it for me. I wouldn't mind returning to Himachal Pradesh and Gujarat either. Really, though, I'm just a southeast Asia person rather than a southern Asia person.

*101,187 Indian rupees spent over 55 days (NZ$2110, US$1513.30, UK£1214.70, €1431)
*Average spent per day: NZ$38.40, US$27.50, UK£22.10, €26

*312 birds seen, 89 lifers (c.28 percent of total)
*38 mammals seen, 18 lifers (c.47 percent of total)


THAILAND (part one):

Like Malaysia, Thailand is a great destination. I've been there several times and visited many of the national parks. This visit I specifically went to Kaeng Krachan again, but otherwise I was just passing through en route to Cambodia and Vietnam.

*9729 Baht spent over fourteen days (NZ$387, US$278, UK£224, €261.90)
*Average spent per day: NZ$27.60, US$19.85, UK£16, €18.70

*108 birds seen, 4 lifers (c.4 percent of total)
*18 mammals seen, 2 lifers (c.11 percent of total)


CAMBODIA:

Really just a transit-country on my way to Vietnam. I do like Cambodia but it is much more expensive than the surrounding countries, probably entirely due to the use of the American dollar, and there is precious little wildlife left even in the national parks and reserves. And some of those reserves, especially in the west, are incredibly expensive to visit. I only went to three actual wildlife spots (Kampi, Bokor National Park, and Kep National Park).

*US$469 spent over ten days (NZ$651.20, UK£377.50, €442.70) [Without the visa costs: US$384, NZ$533.20, UK£309.10, €362.50]
*Average spent per day: NZ$65.10, US$46.90, UK£37.75, €44.30 [Without the visa costs: US$38.40, NZ$53.30, UK£30.90, €36.25 ]

*63 birds seen, 1 lifer (c.1.6 percent of total)
*5 mammals seen, 1 lifer (c.20 percent of total)


VIETNAM:

Overall, I loved Vietnam. This visit went rather better than the last trip (2015) in terms of actually finding animals. There were species I missed, of course, and some that I just didn't even bother looking for, but I saw a lot of the ones I was after and I got to visit most of the places I wanted to. I'm not sure when or if I'll be back because, like Sri Lanka, I feel like I covered enough ground to consider it "done". If I was to go back it would be for Grey-shanked Doucs.

*36,439,000 Dong spent over 77 days (NZ$2324, US$1606, UK£1243, €1463)
*Average spent per day: NZ$30.20, US$20.85, UK£16.15, €19

*259 birds seen, 42 lifers (c.16 percent of total)
*33 mammals seen, 10 lifers (c.30 percent of total)


THAILAND (part two):

I didn't get up to much during part two of Thailand, although I was there for two weeks. I went to a few zoos, tried out Pang Sida National Park for the first time - didn't see much - and that's about it. The bill still managed to rack up though.

*10,000 Baht spent over 13 days (NZ$413, US$292.80, UK£227.60, €261.90)
*Average spent per day: NZ$31.80, US$22.50, UK£17.50, €20.10

*64 birds seen, 2 lifers (c.3 percent of total)
*8 mammals seen, 0 lifers (0 percent of total)


MALAYSIA (part two):

As with Thailand, really just a short wander on my way home. I was running low on money so thought I should stop, but Taman Negara made a handy cheap place to extend the trip a bit longer. The ten days in Taman Negara averaged out at about NZ$19 a day, but for the whole 17 days in Malaysia the average came out quite a bit higher because I was going around zoos and what-not.

*1430.95 Ringgits spent over 17 days (NZ$461.20, US$333.60, UK£264.20, €299.60)
*Average spent per day: NZ$27.10, US$19.60, UK£15.50, €17.60

*96 birds seen, 6 lifers (c.6 percent of total)
*18 mammals seen, 0 lifers (0 percent of total)

.........................................................

And a total for the trip:

The money totals aren't as exact as they might appear because exchange rates fluctuate constantly. I'll usually work the costs out as I go, but for the overall totals for a country I just put the whole amount into XE and see what it comes out at. And for the below costs I've just added up all the NZ$ from the preceding country totals, and then converted that into the other Western currencies. Also there may be flights, visas etc which aren't included (sometimes I add them in and sometimes I don't).

*NZ$8469.50 spent over 248 days (US$6123, UK£4849.90, €5499.70)
*Average spent per day: NZ$34.15, US$24.70, UK£19.55, €22.20


Bird and Mammal species

*705 birds seen, 228 lifers (c.32 percent of total)
*116 mammals seen, 55 lifers (c.47 percent of total)
 
Countries in order of cheapest to most expensive for this trip (on average per day):

In part, how high or low the averages are depends on the length of each leg. On a longer trip the spend would typically average out lower than on a short trip to the same country. But two short trips to the same country could have dramatically different daily averages. For example, if may be unavoidable to have to spend $50 on a taxi or a zoo visit, and if that was on a visit of five days it would add a whopping $10 to your daily average - but if the visit was for three months it only adds fifty cents per day which is negligible.

So you could take the below figures as a general ball-park of what backpacking in southeast Asia costs for a single traveller, but not in a particularly precise way. I travel alone which can be more expensive than as a couple because you aren't splitting certain costs such as rooms or taxis. Basic costs also depend on your own lifestyle choices (e.g. I don't drink alcohol which a lot of backpackers spend a good deal of money upon; and I'd rather wait an hour for a $2 bus than just take a $10 taxi immediately). Each to their own.

I might also note the average total for my last long trip (2013-14) which included eastern Asia - eastern Russia, Mongolia and China - along with southeast Asia, which came out at NZ$57.30 per day (with the exchange rates at that time working out at US$49.40, UK£29.35, and €36).

The overall average for this trip was NZ$34.15 per day (US$24.70, UK£19.55, €22.20).


*Malaysia (part two): NZ$27.10, US$19.60, UK£15.50, €17.60

*Thailand (part one): NZ$27.60, US$19.85, UK£16, €18.70

*Vietnam: NZ$30.20, US$20.85, UK£16.15, €19

*Thailand (part two): NZ$31.80, US$22.50, UK£17.50, €20.10

*Sri Lanka: NZ$31.90, US$22.85, UK£18.10, €21.60

*India (part one): NZ$35.80, US$25.40, UK£20.30, €23.60

*Malaysia (part one): NZ$36.10, US$25.90, UK£21.20, €23.80

*India (part two): NZ$38.40, US$27.50, UK£22.10, €26

*Cambodia (without visa costs): NZ$53.30, US$38.40, UK£30.90, €36.25

*Cambodia (with visa costs): NZ$65.10, US$46.90, UK£37.75, €44.30

**[The visa costs in Cambodia were the initial Cambodian visa and then the three-month Vietnamese visa which I got while in Cambodia]
 
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I thought I might just include all my flights here too, for anyone interested in that detail. I've put them into three blocks, and rounded the figures. The first lot are the ones I booked before leaving New Zealand, and they were supposed to be the only flights during the trip apart for the ones coming home again - but then I had to go to Sri Lanka because of the issues over India's demonetisation (last-minute flights, so more expensive than I would have liked), and then I also decided to go back to Ladakh so a few more had to be added in. The third block are the ones I needed to return home.

ORIGINAL FLIGHTS:
Christchurch to Auckland (Air New Zealand): NZ$73
Auckland to Kuala Lumpur via Gold Coast (Air Asia): NZ$316
Kuala Lumpur to Sandakan (Air Asia): NZ$61
Kota Kinabalu to Kuala Lumpur (Air Asia): NZ$57
Kuala Lumpur to New Delhi (Air Asia): NZ$174
Return flight New Delhi to Leh to New Delhi (Jet Airways): NZ$182
Kochi to Bangkok (Air Asia): NZ$128 [never used because I had to rearrange the trip]

INDIA'S DEMONETISATION EFFECTS:
New Delhi to Colombo via Chennai (SpiceJet): NZ$254
Colombo to Madurai (SpiceJet): NZ$115
Ahmedabad to Dharamshala (SpiceJet): NZ$146
Jammu to Leh (Air India): NZ$48
Leh to New Delhi (Air India): NZ$94
New Delhi to Bangkok via Calcutta (SpiceJet): NZ$184

HOMEWARD BOUND:
Hanoi to Bangkok (Vietjet): NZ$100
Bangkok to Hat Yai (Air Asia): NZ$73
Kuala Lumpur to Melbourne (Air Asia): NZ$238
 
ZOOS VISITED (in order)

*Those in bold were "new" zoos for me, although only two of the zoos I visited were not new. The links are to my reviews on Zoochat.


*Colombo's National Zoo (Sri Lanka): National Zoological Gardens of Sri Lanka - review of National Zoological Gardens, Colombo, December 2016

*Mumbai Zoo (India): Mumbai Zoo visit, January 2017

*Delhi Zoo (India): Delhi National Zoological Park - Delhi Zoo visit, 4 February 2017

*Dusit Zoo (Bangkok, Thailand): Dusit Zoo - Species list, 5 February 2017

*Vinpearl Safari (Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam): Vinpearl Safari Review - 1st March 2017

*Saigon Zoo (Vietnam): Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens - Saigon Zoo review - 7 March 2017

*Endangered Primate Rescue Centre (Cuc Phuong NP, Vietnam): Chlidonias Goes To Asia, part five: 2016-2017 (post #324)

*Turtle Conservation Centre (Cuc Phuong NP, Vietnam)

*Hanoi Zoo (Vietnam): Hanoi Zoo - Hanoi Zoo review, 14 May 2017

*Nakhon Ratchasima Zoo, aka Korat Zoo (Thailand): Korat Zoo - Review of the Korat Zoo - 17 May 2017

*Songkhla Zoo (Thailand): Review of the Songkhla Zoo, 26 May 2017

*Penang Bird Park (Malaysia): Penang Bird Park - Penang Bird Park, 29 May 2017

*Taiping Zoo (Malaysia): Taiping Zoo - Taiping Zoo review, 31 May 2017
 
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Which zoo/country do you like most in this trip?
The country I liked least was India. Not a big fan. There were certainly parts I did like in India, but I could go on all day about the things I didn't like! I doubt I'll be going back there in a hurry.

I liked all the other countries very much. Leaving aside Malaysia and Thailand because I go through them quite a lot (and I like them both quite a lot), my favourite would definitely be Vietnam in terms of the country and people. The wildlife side of things was a bit more frustrating, given the overwhelming lack of it. If speaking just in terms of wildlife then Sri Lanka would come out on top.

For zoos, my favourite of those I visited would probably be the Penang Bird Park. If only considering "actual" zoos, then Taiping Zoo.
 
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