Tokyo - Sumida Aquarium
Taking a leaf from other zoochatters, I've decided to try and embed photos into this report to make it a little easier to read:
In an attempt to free up the following day, whilst at the top of the Tokyo tower I suggested to my friend that we visit the skytree tower the same evening. That way we'd get an aerial view of Tokyo by night and we'd tick off another attraction from our list. Ideally the next day could then be spent at Tama zoo.
Another incentive was that Sumida aquarium, at the base of the skytree tower, was open late into the evening.
We managed to squeeze in a few more sights, and got to Sumida aquarium almost 2 hours before closing time.
We agreed to meet up after 1.5h so that we'd have time to buy tickets and get up the skytree tower before last entry.
The first room in the aquarium showcases tropical freshwater fish in magnificent tanks. There weren't any fish I noticed which aren't commonly available in the trade, but the well-planted 'aquascapes' look very impressive.
Given the lack of unusual animals but outstanding beauty of this aquarium so far, I got the impression that I might not need more than an hour here.
I was proven wrong even by the next exhibit; a jellyfish display with at least 8 species on display, including at least two comb jelly taxa. A large tank for mature moon jellies would have been better used for giant Echizen jellies, but the wall of Kreisel tanks for less common jellies and a 'lab' with glass windows for visitors to look in were very nice touches.
Next were some darkened enclosures for 'deep sea' creatures (spiny lobster, isopods, flashlight fish...), with a series of jewel tanks across the way housing an interesting array of small fish and invertebrates; among these were yellow garden eels. Some freshwater species dot the next open space, including a tank for several Japanese eels. This area features images of the works of the artist Hokusai, who is most famous for his views of Mount Fuji - the Great Wave off Kanagawa being the most famous of these, and providing inspiration to many, including the logo of the 'Quiksilver' brand.
A wide viewing window into the top of the ocean tank ('Tokyo tank') stretches along a wall to the right and spreads to the lower floor, whilst the exhibition space opens up with views over rails on the left over the large indoor penguin pool on the lower floor, and on the right to the main tall viewing window into the Tokyo Tank, a large tank featuring sandtiger sharks, moray eels, several rays and various smaller fish.
After this space are a row of four long parallel tanks exhibiting coral reef life. One of these is a beautiful, well-lit but fairly standard reef tank, another very similar but featuring the stunning wrought iron butterflyfish. Although I would see it again throughout the trip, it was incredible to get good views of this taxon: imagine an outline of a butterflyfish which someone has frantically crosshatched with a grey and white pens, but neater, with a bright yellow rim to the tail and posterior fins. I decided that this is one of my favourite fish, and that I believe nothing pulls of the colour yellow as well as a butterflyfish.
Also in this area were a tank for larger fish including some native small sharks, and a seabed tank exhibiting a further three species of garden eel (white-spotted, along with the more common spotted and splendid species).
From here there are two ways to get to the lower floor; a winding ramp over the penguin and fur seal pools, or a sloping corridor lined with mirrors, screens and jellyfish tanks. Very impressive.
A small, darkened viewing area for the Tokyo tank juts off at the end of this corridor, with the main viewing window round the corner.
Also in this area are a set of small tanks holding Tokyo salamander, ricefish and freshwater gobies. Ornamental fish in a variety of tanks then dot the path towards the underwater viewing windows for the fur seal pool with a small tunnel too. Beyond this are some medium sized tanks for some native marine species, including two giant spiny lobster specimens held individually.
In front of the penguin viewing windows are a trio of what appear to be touchpools, each holding a young green turtle - they appeared to be a matter of weeks/months old. I think the penguin pool is alleged to be Japan's largest indoor penguin enclosure (but advertising is a little less straightforward) - effectively a rocky area surrounded by water, with acrylic walls altering underwater viewing all around. Raised viewing areas and the aforementioned upper floors allow better views of the penguins' land area. Part of this complex is taken up by a small enclosure for a pair of South American fur seals. After this, a few mini tanks held 'romantic' fish by the exit in celebration of Valentine’s Day (kissing gourami etc.).
I found this to be a very pleasant aquarium. I thought it was a great balance between suiting the visiting public and the nerdy enthusiast. Aesthetically pleasing, a reasonable size, and overall a very enjoyable visit. I felt the Tokyo tank was maybe a little underwhelming; views from each area were a little dissatisfying, photography difficult and the blue lighting used distorts the impression members of the public can take from the tank.
I felt that if asked to recommend one Tokyo aquarium to a visiting friend (who is not an enthusiast), this would probably be it. A lot could be better - better lighting and hiding places for fish, some of the enclosures could be more spacious - but the typical visitor experience is very impressive. With an interesting selection of taxa on display it’s a very interesting aquarium.
Despite my efforts and careful schemes, we spent the following day in Disneyland. Still brilliant, but Tama would have been nice! I couldn't complain though - I had promised to compromise this trip, and although I'd suggested I might only visit two zoos during our time in Japan, within 36 hours of landing my friend had already waited outside three aquaria while I made unscheduled visits.