Nanjing Hongshan Forest Zoo
Yesterday morning I visited Nanjing Hongshan Forest Zoo. I'm going to do a mini report on it, barely even a review.
It's super easy to get to, just one tube stop from the main station in Nanjing. Entry is 40 RMB (about $6); if you want to see the sea-mammal performance it's another 40. Unfortunately due to a tight schedule I wasn't able to watch this; posters can always be misleading but I'm pretty sure I'd have seen my first Walrus. Another time.
The zoo is on a large expansive site, with lots of heavily wooded slopes and a couple of small lakes in the one corner. Although it doesn't lend itself naturally to large paddocks for hoofstock, in most respects it's a great location for a zoo.
Sadly for the most part the zoo fails spectacularly to use this setting. Many of the large cats are in horrendous small concrete cages; there
is a large ravine style enclosure that is clearly built for lions or tigers but at the moment it's holding swans. Temporarily, the signs assured us.
The bear pits were better than you might expect, but still not much to talk about. Undersized, but with natural substrates and climbing apparatus. The Panda enclosure was first class, although I didn't see inside the house due to the crowds.
In the centre of the zoo is a large island for Rhesus Macaques; here I was treated to the unique (for me at least) sight of juveniles pushing each other off walkways and then swimming away happily. It made me panic a little the first time I saw it I can assure you. Although very rocky this seemed like a decent exhibit for the large, obviously breeding group.
It was outside the monkey exhibit that I witnessed the weirdest, least appropriate behaviour I've yet seen in a zoo. I've grown used to Chinese people exercising in public so seeing Tai Chi or dance rehearsals on zoo grounds doesn't even warrant a second glance anymore. I was, however, surprised to see a old man practicing with two bull whips. He was determinedly cracking them in slow succession; as you may imagine the effect was similar to someone methodically firing a revolver into the air. Given the lack of reaction from the monkeys I suspect he may do this every day but I certainly didn't enjoy it.
The rest of the primates are surprisingly well housed and this was certainly the highlight of the zoo. The orangs have a large enclosure with lots of real trees to climb in; obviously they were sat on and under a low wooden platform at ground level. Some things never change. Although it appears to be an excellent exhibit in many ways, I'm pretty sure it's one shorted wire away from an escape.
The zoo has several species of primate that would have made for interesting viewing if I hadn't recently seen them at Shanghai: Hoolock Gibbon, Francois Langur, Golden Snub-nosed Monkey and various native macaques. It was also pleasing to see that although public feeding was still happening, it wasn't ubiquitous.
Some odds and ends: Meerkats and Red Pandas both had excellent exhibits, Elephants and Hippos had the usual undersized but not truly disastrous exhibits. Unusually, the only three ungulates at the zoo are the hippos and then zebras and giraffes in decent but unremarkable exhibits. As previously stated the heavily wooded environment isn't really suited to large paddocks but I still found this remarkable in a city zoo serving eight million people.
I didn't get a chance to see the aviaries, again due to a tight schedule. We did have a look inside the aquarium/reptile house. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves but I really can't remember seeing worse, more shameful enclosures anywhere in the world. In fairness many of the exhibits for smaller species were adequate in size at least. The following picture shows the Green Turtle 'enclosure'.
What we have then is a zoo with lots of bad, some average and some good. It’s hard to tell if there is currently a positive trend or not; certainly the worst bits suggest that someone without an understanding of animal welfare is making the decisions. I’m inclined to judge such places harshly, indeed, looking over my list I can’t really find a worse zoo that I’ve visited. But there is cause for long-term optimism: animal welfare is a concept that is slowly gaining ground in China and this kind of place will have to change. Unlike lots of establishments, Nanjing Zoo has huge amounts of space to build in, much of it perfect for large naturalistic enclosures.
I’ll probably go back next year to see the bits I missed and to see if there are any improvements but I’d be lying if I said I was looking forward to it.