Is there a 'best' way to improve the effect when you / the animal are not sufficiently distanced to completely get rid of fence, I'm meaning when there are just areas of highlight but all the detail is there?
Thanks
Thanks
Getting rid of the fence
- Thread starter OrangePerson
- Start date
The best results come from walking away and returning when the animal has moved: but I know that this isn't always possible.
Other alternatives
Alan
Other alternatives
- stretch to move the front of the lens that little bit closer to the wire
- move the camera away from your eye and hold it closer to the wire; unless you have a Live View feature (and can remember how to turn it on), you will have to squint through the viewfinder to check the focus and you will be guessing at the composition - don't forget to set a higher shutter speed than you normally would, because you won't be able to hold the camera as steady as you normally can
- shoot through a dark patch of wire, it is much less noticeable than lighter colours (if it's in full sun, look for a shaded patch)
- look out for any gaps - I often shoot the bushdogs at Chester through the slightly larger gap where the padlock is attached (I confess that I have sometimes used the foot of my monopod to push the padlock to the side)
Alan
I'll give the arms length a go, but I was really meaning if all else fails and you end up with a photo you really like but that just shows some lightness.
The best way is to carry a pair of wire cutters and just snip open a larger hole for your lens. 
(Hopefully everyone realizes this is a joke).
All of the advice from the first response are correct. If full sun is hitting the fence it is often impossible to shoot through - you need to find an area that is shaded. Sometimes even a small sliver of shade will work - such as the shadow cast on the fence by its own vertical support post.
I am not sure from your original post if you are aware of how to set your camera or not. Forgive me if you already know this, but the lens must be set to the largest aperture (which is the smallest number). Also the more telephoto the lens is, the easier it is to blur a fence out of focus.
Situations like this is where spending more for a larger aperture telephoto lens pays off. I used to use a 100-300 f/4-5.6 zoom, which worked ok at the 300m setting (f/5.6 maximum aperture). But then I bought a used 300mm f/4 and that extra stop of aperture really helps (although I lose the versatility of a zoom lens). 300mm f/2.8 lenses will do even more, but they cost as much as a car and are so big they are unwieldly to travel with and draw undue attention. (Everyone at the zoo will be asking you "Do you work for National Geographic?"). I find 300mm f/4 a good compromise. The other lens that gets excellent reviews and is priced between these two is the Sigma 120-300 f/2.8, but again it is pretty big to travel with.
(Hopefully everyone realizes this is a joke).All of the advice from the first response are correct. If full sun is hitting the fence it is often impossible to shoot through - you need to find an area that is shaded. Sometimes even a small sliver of shade will work - such as the shadow cast on the fence by its own vertical support post.
I am not sure from your original post if you are aware of how to set your camera or not. Forgive me if you already know this, but the lens must be set to the largest aperture (which is the smallest number). Also the more telephoto the lens is, the easier it is to blur a fence out of focus.
Situations like this is where spending more for a larger aperture telephoto lens pays off. I used to use a 100-300 f/4-5.6 zoom, which worked ok at the 300m setting (f/5.6 maximum aperture). But then I bought a used 300mm f/4 and that extra stop of aperture really helps (although I lose the versatility of a zoom lens). 300mm f/2.8 lenses will do even more, but they cost as much as a car and are so big they are unwieldly to travel with and draw undue attention. (Everyone at the zoo will be asking you "Do you work for National Geographic?"). I find 300mm f/4 a good compromise. The other lens that gets excellent reviews and is priced between these two is the Sigma 120-300 f/2.8, but again it is pretty big to travel with.
OK, it looks like you were posting this reply as I was posting mine, so I didn't see this. As far as photos you have already taken, I think perhaps upping the contrast in Photoshop or reducing the highlights. Photoshop Elements (what I use) has a simple tool called Highlights / Shadows with which you can either darken highlights or lighten shadows (or both). In the full version of Photoshop CS I think you need to use curves to do this.
Thanks, I have experimented with some stuff, I was just wondering I there was an obvious 'best' way to do it.
Sometimes there's nothing more you can do on the spot! Inconsiderate stand-off barrier builders!
Sometimes there's nothing more you can do on the spot! Inconsiderate stand-off barrier builders!