Day 5 - 20th September
Up early at 06:00 to finish packing. I noticed while having breakfast in the restaurant that it was cloudy again, but luckily it didn't look like it was going to rain.
At 09:00 I was collected by Team Kilimanjaro. The bus we were in included the whole support team. There were the four clients (myself plus three others), Leo the Guide, Ibrahim the Assistant guide, Shakura the cook, and 17 porters (plus the busdriver). A little cramped, but we set off towards Moshi and Kilimanjaro.
My travelling companions were a trio - Jacob (in his late 50's), his son Rob (late 20's), and Rob's partner Lisa (mid-20's). Jacob and Rob are New Zealanders, but Lisa is Swedish and I think she met Rob while they were both working in Norway.
After an hour or so we stopped at some shops so we could buy some snacks - cashews, mentos, biscuits and chocolate - that we would need while climbing. At least that was the plan; in the end I didn't get to eat very much of mine.
Then back onto the bus and off to Marangu Gate where everyone entering the park has to register. Marangu Gate is around 1800 metres above sea-level and was covered in fog when we arrived, at times visibility was less than 50 metres.
Having registered and fighting off the streetside vendors who were determined to sell us a hat, or carabinas, or pretty bracelets etc. we piled back into the bus for another 90 minutes on crappy dirt roads until we reached Rongai Gate, our starting point. But first we were served lunch, so our actual climb/trek didn't start until about 3pm.
The trek before us was 6.7 kilometres up to Simba Camp at around 2600metres altitude (Rongai Gate is around 2000m). It was a pleasant uphill walk through a lot of pine plantations and some farming areas, but the path also followed the border of a rainforest that was within the National Park, and I occasionally caught sight of some birds like Olive Thrush and White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, and the odd Blue Monkey.
As the path was leaving the Pine plantation and enter the National Park a local lady pointed out a smallish lizard on the path ahead of us. With delight I realised it was a Kilimanjaro Two-horned Chameleon, a species endemic to the area and one I was hoping to see. I quickly grabbed my camera and started taking photos. Jacob came over to see what the fuss was about and said "Oh, it's a lizard".
Stupidly I responded with "That's not a lizard - that's a chameleon!", an attitude I think a lot of people probably feel about this family of reptiles. Of course, chameleons are lizards, but such cool lizards they deserve to be something better.
Sitting on the path didn't really provide any great photo opportunities, and I said to Leo it was a shame we were in a National Park. Leo pointed out we were not in the National Park yet, were were 10 metres outside the border, so I picked up the chameleon to get a better look at it and - as it wasn't happy about that (evidenced by its open mouth threat) - I put it on my forearm and it promptly walked up my arm towards my face shaking it's open mouth at me. I put it on a tree in the National Park and it started climbing upwards, and I got some nice photos.
We continued on through the forest to Simba Camp arriving just before dark. Looking back down the hillside towards the lowlands we saw wew were now above a sea of clouds, but looking upwards all we saw were more clouds high above us. There were at least seven other climbing groups camping here tonight, some with as many as 14 climbers and a support crew of more than 50. Most of the tourists appeared to be German, although I heard a few British accents too. IN amongst all the others, our tents had been setup and so had the mess tent. So we stowed our gear and got ready for dinner. I had hired a sleeping bag from Team Kilimanjaro and now I unpacked it to check it out. It was like a little coffin, zipping up so only my face was exposed.
Shakura was a brilliant cook. Dinner consisted of soup, a main course, and then usually something like fruit or maybe cake to finish it off. And there was always plenty of food, we never went hungry. We rarely saw Shakura, but Geoffrey was our 'waiter' and our main contact at meals. He also brought us hot water for tea first thing in the mornings.
So after our first dinner, we retired to our tents and spent our first night on the mountain.
Hix
New Birds Seen: White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Olive Thrush