Lisieux, CERZA
This is one of the more famous French zoos, not in the least due to it’s unique name, which stands for
Centre d’Étude et de Reproduction Zoologique Augeron (Zoological Centre for Studies and Reproduction of the Auge region). It is a collection that focuses heavily on larger mammals, especially hoofstock and carnivores. I had quite high expectations from this zoo and thought it would be one of the best zoos on the trip, but I was disappointed.
Part of the disappointment will have to do with the extreme crowding of the zoo, it was packed. The number of visitors on the ground was completely irresponsible and the lay-out with often relatively narrow paths on two one-way circuits made it impossible to avoid crowds at all. Only after 6 pm did it become somewhat more quiet, but zoos like CERZA should not complain if they will have to close again if infections soar again, as they are complicit in the spread of the virus.
How not to social distance
As mentioned CERZA consists of two loops, a red and a yellow one. The red circuit focuses mostly on African animals, but also includes a small tropical house with terraria, a nice walkthrough aviary with birds from around the world and the burrowing animals house, which off-course holds tamarins, as well as 6-banded Armadillo. The first enclosure one encounters is the large savannah. This is basically a huge square plot of grass with Giraffe, White Rhino, Gemsbok, Nile Lechwe, Watusi and Ostrich. It would become a theme throughout the zoo, but things like landscaping, planting and immersion are not part of the CERZA vocabulary. The circuit continues with large wooded enclosures for African Wild Dog, Spotted & Striped Hyena, a lemur walkthrough and a smaller savanna with Greater Kudu and Scimitar-horned Oryx, but unfortunately no White-tailed Gnu anymore. Two highlights are the pair of Pygmy Hippo enclosures, which are large, well wooded and with a large pool. Easily the best pair of outdoor enclosures I had seen for that species until then. The Leopard enclosure (I believe for Sri Lankan Leopard) is also nice, it is spacious and the leopards can use most of the trees in the enclosure. Open-topped Leopard enclosures are rare in the rest of Europe, but were common in France. The indoor stables for the Pygmy Hippo were however extremely basic, as was all other indoor accommodation. The Leopards also only had one enclosure, so if they have to be separated, there is only a tiny separation cage or indoor housing. That makes 0 sense to me as there is plenty of space to create a sizeable second enclosure….
Main savannah
Pygmy Hippo indoors
Pygmy Hippo outdoors, shared with Roloway Monkey. There is a second large enclosure for the other hippo too.
Scimitar-horned Oryx & Greater Kudu enclosure
The yellow loop features from animals from around the world. The highlight is at the start with a huge enclosure for Lion-tailed Macaque, Binturong and Reeves’s Muntjac (falsely signed as Indian Muntjac on one side, but not the other….). To see Binturong 15 meter up in a tree from a raised walkway was a real treat. The nearby Malayan Tapir enclosures were also great, simple but spacious and effective, with lots of shade and a pool. What follows are simple but large and effective enclosures for Spectacled Bear and “Arctic” Wolves. The Polar Bear enclosure is next and it is almost the only enclosure where there is some cultural theming around, with some huts. The enclosures were smaller than I thought, but still larger than all the German ones and very open. I would have expected more shade, but at least the pools were large. New in this loop is also a small Indonesian village with a large enclosure for a pair of Babirusa, already with a piglet and a large Sulawesi Crested Macaque & Small-clawed Otter enclosure. Overall there is a large number of other hoofstock and carnivore species (6 White Tigers on a big lawn….) in this area. Whereas all enclosures are spacious and individually fine, it is shocking how little use is made of the varied landscape on which the zoo is built. It is often little more than fencing a plot (and in the case of the Australian walkthrough, randomly drop a plane). With that style it certainly smells of a missed opportunity and it makes the whole zoo look very cheap and lacking charisma. France has several zoos that are oozing with charisma and a key characteristic of them is that they use their history and terrain to their advantage, something CERZA hardly does. I was also surprised at how basic indoor accommodation and separation possibilities are throughout the zoo. With so much space available, a little more attention to that shouldn’t be difficult.
Gelada Baboon enclosure
Lion-tailed Macaque, Reeves' Muntjac & Binturong enclosure.
Malayan Tapir enclosure
One of the two Polar Bear enclosures
Obligatory plane crash in the kangaroo walkthrough
Babirusa enclosure
Sulawesi Crested Macaque & Small-clawed otter enclosure
Indian Rhino valley
Some parts of the collection can only be seen through the Safari Train, though this train mostly shows you enclosures you can also see from the walking loops. The queue was absolutely ridiculous and social distancing was not enforced in the slightest. The queue also blocked the road to the entrance/exit, so even less space available. The tour has a pre-recorded audio tune (like in the Singapore Night Safari and others) and surprisingly it is both in French and English. Though the English hardly passes as English, as it is spoken by a French guy with an extremely over the top French accent, which is so bad it must be done on purpose. It is really quite annoying to listen to this guy. The only animals you cannot see by walking are American Bison, Reindeer, Eland, Grant’s Zebra, Blue Wildebeest and Red Forest Buffalo, so skipping this can definitely be worth it….
African Savannah on the safari train.
Overall this was a somewhat disappointing visit, CERZA certainly has shortcomings, but visiting on a more quiet day would probably have enhanced the experience, though it is certainly not a great zoo. It is mostly a fine zoo though, but entering with the reputation of it being one of France’s finest zoos, it was disappointing. It is still one of France largest zoos and the large mammal collection is impressive and well worth a look overall.