Although I have been in the Betampona reserve 3 months now, I keep on seeing new things, not a lot, but still. I also expected that by now I would have the majority of the birds present here, but that is unfortunately also not true. By now I have seen just over half of the species here. And the species I want to see most here, the helmet vanga, is off course not one of them. But the past few days I was finally able to see number 2 on the list: the pitta-like ground roller. The ground rollers are one of the 6 bird families that are endemic to Madagascar (and the Comoros) and they do not look like rollers, nor does the pitta-like ground roller look lika a pitta… The first time I saw the ground roller was during the night and the ground roller was sleeping in a tree next to the path. Unfortunately it was a juvenile, so it did not have the nice colors of an adult, but still, it was my first wild ground roller, so I had then seen members of all 6 endemic families . And because it always goes like that, 2 days later I saw an adult, that was foraging a few meters away. The first 3 months no ground rollers and then 2 in 3 days… I hope the helmet vanga will also do that
With three months passed now, I also have only a few weeks left here, before I go on holiday. And that is fine, because I have been here now long enough, I found my snails, including at least 1 species new to science and a lot that still has to be identified. And the weather being really bad the past few days also does not really help.
When going travelling I may also find the first person here that is as tall as I am. Although I am “only” 1,85 meters, I have met nobody in the past 3 months who is of my length. Most Malagasy are around 1,50, so I really feel like a giant up here. It unfortunately also means that I am too tall for the hotel beds and the taxi brousse (the public transport) is also not really made for me. Fortunately I am also white, so I get a special treatment and in the taxi-brousse that means I automately get the seat with the most legroom, even when it means they have to remove other people… But there are not many white people (vazaha) that use the public transport in this area, so I am also kind of an attraction and people just start gossiping about me, when I am sitting next to me. Although I speak only 30 words Malagasy, I know they talk about me, as “vazaha” is one of those words… In the beginning I have tried to learn a bit of Malagasy, but I soon gave up. All the words are just too long to remember (that’s what you get if your capital is Antananarivo and the head of state has the longest name of all the world’s head of states…). And instead of finding shorter words, they just at random don’t pronounce the first and/or last part of the word, although they sometimes do pronounce the word as a whole. The only good thing about the language is that grammar is just lacking, you can just put all the words in random order and you do not have to care about verb, as there is only “to be” and not I am/ you are/ he is/ etc..
Being white here also means that you have got lots of money, at least that is what people think. And the fact that I am a millionaire here says more about the currency, than about the amount of money on my bank account. 3000 ariary is worth 1 euro, but that is not that strange, it is however strange that the biggest note you will find is the 10.000 ariary note, so 3,30 euro/ close to 5 dollar. And it is also not so cheap here… So you end up with an endless pile of 10.000 ariary notes if you want to buy some stuff. That will be fun if I want to buy an airplane ticket, as credit cards are still a novelty…
I do not know my exact program for the coming weeks, but in 3,5 weeks I will be giving a presentation at the university of Antananarivo, and I will probably be younger than all the students attending my presentation, and after that it’s finally travelling time and that also means I am going home quite soon. Madagascar is nice, but home is better and e-mails and skype cannot replace that….