Day 2: Watch Me Whoop, Watch Me Not Wombat (Part II)
The title for Day 2 will hopefully make more sense to people after this review.
Rio Grande Zoo
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Size: ~30 acres
Species Count: 133
Closed Areas: Australia, Small Primates (both being renovated), Crocodile House?
Rarities: Socorro Dove, native herps, Australian species (none seen)
Price: $14.50 admission
Recommended Time: 3 to 3.5 hours currently; 4+ hours once renovated/under construction areas are open
The Rio Grande Zoo in Albuquerque's biggest claim to fame is their Australian area – one of the best in the United States, which at one point held rarities such as Common Wombat, Saltwater Crocodile, Koala, and Tasmanian Devil (the Australians are definitely laughing right now – they’re special to us, alright?) Unfortunately for me, this whole area was closed and is due to be renovated into an
even better Australian complex – presumably with many of the original species plus Little Blue Penguins (come on Australians, seriously! I’m trying to write a review here...) The Common Wombat was one of two rarities I had hoped to see, but I already knew upon arriving that the wombats were probably a no-go unless they had been moved to some other random corner of the zoo. Spoiler alert: they hadn’t been. So sadly no wombatting occurred during my visit.
Another rarity is the Saltwater Crocodile, which ostensibly *was* on exhibit still. They were signed in an outdoor enclosure that also had signage for American Alligator. I saw plenty of those; alas, no salties. On the zoo map pictured below, you will see there is a house with a crocodile silhouette on it; there are also photos in the gallery of the inside. Now, I’m not sure exactly what happened; I remember seeing those double doors, and – if memory serves me right – I tried to go in but the doors were locked or there was a sign saying it wasn’t open. I want to clarify that I was rushing to get the zoo done, so it’s possible I am misremembering and just walked past it without realizing it went into an exhibit area. It’s still on the map at least; its inhabitants last anyone reported was Saltwater Crocodile and African Slender-snouted Crocodile. Oh well; the salties are a loss, but I would see Slender-snouted elsewhere soon enough.
The priority, however, was Socorro Dove – and this was a success. It’s unclear to me if Albuquerque is the only place in the US currently that has Socorro Doves on public display, but in any case I can confirm that Rio Grande Zoo *does* have them on display. They are in their Birds of the Islands aviary complex, which consisted of five wire cages (inside a bigger wire-cage aviary!) containing signage for a variety of rarer birds and not many actual rare birds. Birds seen included a pair of Wrinkled Hornbills (peering at me from inside their house); a pair of Bali Mynas mixed with invisible Superb Starlings; a cage signed for Cuban Amazon and Red Lory but in which the only visible bird looked an awful lot like a Rainbow Lorikeet; Nicobar Pigeon, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, and Major Mitchell’s Cockatoo; and a fifth and final cage was home to a bizarre mix of Socorro Dove, Australian King Parrot, and Princess of Wales Parakeet. Neither of these Australian birds were visible, but there was one dove picking up nesting materials on the ground and taking it back inside the house. Success!
The zoo had a couple of other surprises up its sleeve. A row of raptor aviaries had a pair of White-necked Ravens, a species I’ve seen in Africa but up until now not in captivity; as a corvid fan, I was very happy. A pair of Steller’s Sea Eagles were also a fairly uncommon sight.
Another surprise was the Herpetarium; I knew they had one, but so few photos of it were in the media gallery I didn't know what to expect. It turned out to have a fairly solid collection of about 50 species including some unusual ones like Quince Monitor, Krefft’s River Turtle, Bismarck Ringed Python, and a few Southwest natives (a king snake, two garter snakes and a river turtle). I also witnessed a Green Anaconda clutching a rabbit underwater with its thick coiled body. The rabbit had already passed through the pearly gates, but the anaconda didn’t seem in a hurry to start eating its soggy meal. I liked the overall design of the house – very little theming, mostly just a darkened hallway with several cul-de-sacs full of terrariums. For some people here that may seem dull and unimaginative, but for me it was simple, easy to navigate, and put more focus on the animals themselves.
Another highlight – and probably the most standout part of the zoo while the Australian area is out of commission – is the fairly new Penguin Chill exhibit. I’ve seen some pretty good Antarctic penguin exhibits, but this might be my favorite so far. The above-water area is nothing special and has an average number of penguins for a zoo colony – split between Gentoo, King, and Macaroni – but the cool part is the underwater portion. The water goes quite deep – it’s hard for me to estimate, but far enough down that the viewing is split between multiple floors – and the viewing is comprehensive: both sides early on, then wraps around the side of the downramp, then fully underwater viewing on the lower floor at two different spots. The penguins seemed to make good use of it! I saw countless penguins diving and gliding underneath the water, including many Kings – a species that (in my experience) is normally seen just standing around doing nothing. It was an awesome sight to behold. The lower levels are themed and have educational stuff relating to Antarctic research, which was a nice touch as well.
The rest of the zoo was fairly nondescript. There is a so-so ape area with gorillas, orangutans, and siamang; a cage with some American birds (including unseen Gambel's Quail - grrrr); a beautiful Mexican gray wolf habitat with no wolves visible (the second miss of the day); a small amphibian building with 15 species that had a neat design (and that I got into 2 minutes before the entrance was locked for the day; I heard the exit locked behind me seconds after I walked out); and a long row of carnivore habitats that had a lot of felids in basic, wire-fronted enclosures (another construction project that should hopefully be completed by fall of next year are new Asian habitats for the tigers, snow leopards, and orangutans). There was also a large elephant complex that I only briefly saw because it was the end of the day and the elephants were no longer out, and a few odds and ends like macaws, flamingos, giant tortoises, and a large pond with a huge flock of (what I presumed to be) wild waterfowl.
The final area of mention is the African complex, which is a long trail on the northern edge of the zoo. I was pleasantly surprised with this area also; while it’s not the most memorable or standout African complex I’ve seen or heard about, it’s got a solid collection. Some highlights included a baby hippo; a pair of klipspringers (who got to witness me trip and flail over a mock-rock boulder that was in the path for some reason); a large raucous troop of ruffed lemurs; saddle-billed storks and wattled cranes (both fairly rare in the country); a large aviary with a mesh tunnel hanging bridge, home to a flock of flighted African vultures feasting on carcasses; a large and active chimpanzee troop; ginormous paddocks for white rhinos and mountain zebras; and a few other exhibits for painted dogs, giraffes, cheetahs, warthogs, and a personal target species of mine – spotted hyena.
I was already happy to see hyenas, and I’ve boasted to some people before that I do a pretty good hyena whoop (look it up on Youtube if you’re not familiar – hyenas make more noises than just chattering). With three hyenas walking around when I arrived, I decided to try it out. Apparently I’m as good as advertised, because one of them got curious and headed over to the window I was at – and proceeded to stare at me from right across the glass! It stood there looking at me for a full couple of minutes – even licked the glass at one point. I guess we're friends now?
For the first time on this trip I nailed the timing: ended up finishing 5 minutes before the 5 o'clock close with winter twilight already underway. My camera died with the giraffe exhibit and carnivore complex left to go; I only have one battery (the camera is getting older and I haven’t had many issues with it holding charge until now) so I decided from now on I would take signage photos needed for the species lists with my phone to save battery. This would turn out to be a successful strategy, as Rio Grande would be the only zoo on this trip where my camera died prior to me finishing.
Traveling
My original plan had been to do Rio Grande in the morning, then drive half an hour to a small zoo 30 minutes east called Wildlife West Nature Center for pronghorn, and then shoot across the empty prairies of New Mexico, Texas, and Oklahoma to reach the OKC suburbs in the early night. That plan was essentially shot the moment I shoved Navajo Nation and Rio Grande into the same day; I didn’t make it out of Albuquerque until it was almost fully dark, and OKC is over 7.5 hours from there. I tried at least making it to Oklahoma, but my tiredness and desire not to stop for a motel at 2 AM prevailed by the time I made it to the halfway point in Amarillo. Shot also were my plans to get traditional Texas barbecue in Amarillo, with the ketchup-based sauces drizzled over tender beef brisket. I hope my mouth will forgive me in Memphis...
For some reason, most of the hotels I tried on the east end of the city were booked up; I thought maybe it had to do with the upcoming Thanksgiving holidays, but it was still a bit early for that. On the sixth try I finally got a motel room that turned out to be decent, though at 1 AM I hardly cared whether I was sleeping in a bed, my car, or in a quiet corner at Denny’s with my face in a stack of pancakes. After sleeping a couple of winks, I roused myself and headed out at 7 AM to make my way to the Sooner State and the next leg of the journey: an expedition for small carnivores.
Fast Food Review of the Day: Arby’s
It’s true that I was so appreciative to eat a meal by the time I reached Arby’s I’d have paid them money to feed me a cardboard box, but they really went above and beyond to sell me food that was actually digestable for humans. More than that, it also tasted good! Arby’s is rare on the West Coast, but fairly common in a lot of America’s heartland. Their focus is on hearty meat sandwiches – not subs, but more like roast beef and brisket on hamburger buns – and curly fries that hit a high water mark for fry taste. I also treated myself to a specialty milkshake, a caramel cinnamon that was all a dessert should be: sweet, liquid, fills the gaps in my stomach and the hole in my heart. It’s definitely filling – maybe too much for some people – but it fills somewhat of a gap in most towns as far as fast food goes. If neither burgers or subs are really your thing, Arby’s might be the place for you.