DAY 11: Tuesday, July 11th
Today was a crazy day as I arrived at the San Diego Zoo Safari Park at around 8:45 and afterwards I did not leave my final stop of 3 small aquariums until 8:00 at night. Not necessarily a ton of driving but nevertheless a lot of hassle, as you’ll find out later in my trip report. Whew!
Zoo/Aquarium #25: San Diego Zoo Safari Park
After 13 hours spread over two days at San Diego Zoo, it was time to drive 40 minutes north and experience the San Diego Zoo Safari Park for the 3rd time. I visited in 2006 and 2011 and thus I was excited to be back to see the large Tiger Trail complex that cost a whopping $20 million. This facility does not open new exhibits at anywhere near the rate of the zoo, but nevertheless there is an Australian Walkabout zone that makes its debut next year and still thousands of animals in large habitats. There is no need for an extensive “best, average, worst” review as I have done in the past but instead a few bits n’ bobs in terms of my overall experience.
There is no doubt that I felt much more at home at San Diego Zoo over 2 days and even though at the Safari Park I was the first visitor through the gate at 9:00 a.m., I went in with the Ring-Tailed Lemurs, spent a leisurely hour strolling down through African Woods and African Outpost, took the 25-minute Africa Tram tour, saw Lion Camp, Tiger Trail, Elephant Valley, Condor Ridge, the two big aviaries (Hidden Jungle and Wings of the World), spent time watching the gorillas, ate a delicious lunch overlooking Mombasa Lagoon and its two Shoebill Storks…even with seeing everything in the whole park I was done and dusted after 5 hours. While I feel strongly that San Diego Zoo is the best zoo in the nation, I have often placed the San Diego Zoo Safari Park in around the #10 position. However, I’m not sure that I wouldn’t actually put it a few notches lower, as zoos like Dallas and Houston are ones that I possibly might prefer to walk around in comparison to the Safari Park. The park is in many ways brilliant but it is a different kind of experience when looked at next to a major urban zoo. Having seen everything in 5 hours is something that would never happen at the much superior San Diego Zoo.
There are many positives: the enormous herd of around 20 Giant Eland that share a hillside paddock with Sudan Red-Fronted Gazelles; the stunning Gerenuk herd of around 10 individuals in a grassy yard; the 3 species of flamingo (Greater, Lesser, Chilean) in large, beautiful flocks; Lion Camp is arguably the best lion exhibit in the country; and Tiger Trail is fantastic and right up there with the best tiger exhibits, although not quite on the level of a Minnesota or a Bronx habitat. I was quite impressed with the Lowland Gorilla exhibit with its 9-10 apes, as the enclosure appeared to be much better than I remembered it. The Cheetah exhibit is lush and long, there are the usual rarities around Nairobi Station (Black-Footed Cat, Fennec Fox, Sugar Glider, Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec, Sitatunga) and the food eateries are terrific. There is the new Watering Hole restaurant overlooking the East African Savanna and its vast herds, the Mombasa Lagoon/shoebill stork restaurant with all wooden chairs and tables; and even another eating area that looks out on a group of 6-7 “Mountain Coatis”. I really liked the fairly new (2011) Rodrigues Fruit Bat exhibit that sees visitors enter a medium-sized room and the 15 or so bats are separated from the public by only thin piano wire. All of the smells and squeaks come through and the animals can get very close to people.
For negatives I would include: Africa Tram is not really my style of viewing animals but when you have a hundred or more acres to get around it is the sensible solution. Crammed onto hard plastic seats with three total strangers was a bit awkward, although seeing the vast herds of 15+ Cape Buffalo, 20+ wildebeest, 12+ Gemsbok, 15+ giraffes (of two species), a Southern White Rhino and an Eastern Black Rhino together, 25+ Scimitar-Horned Oryx, and the list could go on. A wonderful tour in many ways but something that I was happy to do only once. Hidden Jungle is a greenhouse aviary that has seen better days and the dozen terrariums that used to house invertebrates are all bordered up and noticeable by their absence. Also, the much-advertised walk-through Ring-Tailed Lemur exhibit has only 4 lemurs and only TWO are on exhibit at any given time. Apparently it has been that way for almost a year now and to me it is a waste and I’d much rather see the Red-Cheeked Gibbons brachiating as they did for a decade or more. Elephant Valley in 2011 had 17 elephants on display and I could almost have forgiven the prehistoric rocks of this 1970’s exhibit. Today I only saw 5 elephants and the adjacent yards were both total dry, barren, dust bowls, a far cry from what zoos like Fresno, Omaha, Sedgwick County, Oklahoma, Dallas and North Carolina have done with their pachyderms. There definitely needs to be a pathway that connects the tigers to the elephants ASAP and a sign is up stating that will happen in the future…plus the elephant viewing area is still disappointing.
There is no doubt that the San Diego Zoo Safari Park is one of America’s greatest zoos and in fact several zoo enthusiasts rank it right up there with the best worldwide. Several of the exhibits (Lion Camp, Tiger Trail, Condor Ridge, almost all the walk-around African bits) are amazing and I would still regard this zoo as a classic. The breeding success is second to none and while there I saw several young giraffes, including one that was only 4 days old. It seemed that all of the ungulate herds had newborns and there is a never-ending glut of youngsters being born at this time of the year.
Zoo/Aquarium #26: Sea Life Carlsbad
After I finished with the Safari Park I drove towards the coast to the city of Carlsbad, which is home to an ultra-popular theme park called Legoland that attracts something like 1.5 million visitors each year. My kids are big into LEGO and they would probably love this expensive park, which consists of the Legoland theme park, Legoland waterpark and adjacent to the entrance gates is a Sea Life Aquarium. There is even a LEGO Hotel that looks like gigantic LEGO pieces and there is another hotel being built that will be a LEGO Castle Hotel with 250 rooms and it opens in spring of 2018. The Sea Life Aquarium cost me $18 for parking and $22 for admission and so for $40 I think that I spent 40 minutes inside the establishment. There is the usual big shark tank with large LEGO characters inside, a San Francisco Harbour exhibit, the standard Stingray Tank that all Sea Life facilities have, and many gleaming and glossy tanks in all directions. After visiting so many tiny, rather home-made aquariums I must admit that I appreciated the superb cleanliness, attention to detail and somewhat overwrought theming of this aquarium. I have now toured 4 Sea Life Aquariums (California, Arizona, Texas, Minnesota) and I think that there are another 4 in the USA now (Missouri, Michigan, North Carolina, Florida) with a New Jersey facility to open next year. Species highlights include: Zebra Shark, Grey Reef Shark, Whitetip Reef Shark, Blacktip Reef Shark, Brownbanded Bamboo Shark, Epaulette Shark, Queensland Grouper, Panther Grouper, Panda Puffer, Blue-Spotted Jawfish, Zebra Moray Eel, Dragon Moray Eel, White-Mouth Moray Eel, Red Hairy Lobster, Blood Shrimp and European Common Cuttlefish.
Zoo/Aquarium #27: Santa Monica Pier Aquarium
There is a crazy story associated with this particular visit, as I had planned to visit both Santa Monica and Roundhouse (see next review) the following day but due to me still having time on my hands I decided to bump up two small aquariums that are both open late hours in the summer. After ticking another Sea Life off of my lifetime list, I headed north and battled the usual disgusting Los Angeles traffic in order to bypass the City of Angels and head to tourist-ridden Santa Monica. Since I was driving a family minivan with 7 seats (although 5 of them are folded down to accommodate my sleeping quarters) I had no qualms about being pulled over by police and I hit the HOV (High Occupany Vehicle) lane and accelerated northwards. I was not ready to crawl at walking speed through the ridiculous Los Angeles traffic, which everyone knows is enough to cause people to flee from the city in droves, and so at least the HOV lane (designed for motorcycles and vehicles with at least two passengers inside) allowed me to make progress as I knew that the aquarium closed at 6:00 p.m.
Battling L.A. traffic, blaring the Rolling Stones “Exile on Main Street” album, eating a few crunchy tacos from Taco Bell, and sweating like a Chihuahua in a Mexican desert, I cranked up the air-conditioning and drove through 106-degree haze. After a lengthy struggle to locate parking, my GPS (which up to now has been flawless) guided me to the aquarium and I managed to park down a back alley and shell out $15 to a Rastafarian who reeked of marijuana but nonetheless was the “manager” for this particular parking lot. The wad of cash that he had in his hand would have been enough to pay for this entire trip and he slapped me on the back and said “Yah man, da fishes is thatta way” with an accent so thick I nodded and pretended that is what he said. Since I am such a meticulous planner, tweaking my road trip itinerary over the course of two years, it annoyed me to find out that I was directly in Venice Beach and thus a long distance from Santa Monica Beach. After consulting with several passersby, I decided to walk the distance instead of battling the rat-race that is the local streets. I looked it up later and from Venice Beach to Santa Monica Pier is 1.4 miles (2.22 km) and in the afternoon heat that seemed like a marathon to me.
I sensed that after all of this trouble I wouldn’t make it into the aquarium before it closed for the day as the hours are only from 2:00-6:00 and so I began to run…then I walked…then I gasped for breath…then I began to run again. I passed what seemed like a thousand people all smoking pot, several women wearing nothing but g-strings (not even bikini tops), a volleyball match that didn’t involve much in the way of clothing, buskers, tattoo artists, loads of people selling artwork or just plain crap by the side of the walkway, hundreds of skateboarders and cyclists. Venice Beach is like Las Vegas on steroids and I ran along as sweat dripped from every orifice. It was 105 degrees and I was running past half-naked beauties in order to make it into a crappy little aquarium. What has this zoo enthusiast insanity drove me to become? A man who is so obsessed that he bypasses the little things in life, like a woman levitating near a telephone pole? There was honestly a middle-aged woman dressed up like a gypsy and holding a 10-foot stick to the ground as she levitated with her feet directly spread out ahead of her. People were underneath her body and I’m guessing that she had some kind of semi-invisible string attached to the telephone pole but it was a truly startling sight. How the heck does she do it? Maybe it is pure magic.
I ran like The Running Man in Stephen King’s creepy novella, like Tom Hanks in Forrest Gump, like the Grim Reaper was chasing me down as by the time I approached the historic and wonderful Santa Monica Pier I had my calf muscles screaming in agony, my shirt was stuck to my back, my heart was pounding like the first time I laid eyes on my future wife (ka-ching!) and I flopped onto the pier like a gasping fish that has minutes to live. I staggered down to the end of the pier as that was naturally where I imagined the aquarium would be, past innumerable fairground rides, homeless people that actually stank worse than me, and eventually at the end it dawned on me that there was no aquarium there. Yikes! I began to panic, asking people at random where the aquarium was but many were tourists and they didn’t know about any damn aquarium and why didn’t I leave them alone? I asked some workers operating the rides and I was told that there was indeed a very small public aquarium at the beginning of the pier, not at the end. I dashed to the start of the pier, up on the beach, and still there was no aquarium anywhere. Then a kind man, who must have taken pity on my ghastly expression, guide me down a set of obscurely-placed stairs and told me that the aquarium is actually underneath the pier. It is the Bermuda Triangle of aquariums! Taking the stairs two-at-a-time, probably weighing two pounds less than I did an hour ago, I surged into the Santa Monica Pier Aquarium and slapped my $5 down at exactly 5:48. Thank goodness I ran my body into the grave as I would never have made it otherwise.
So what do I think about the aquarium? The whole thing is two small rooms and so the 12 minutes that I had before the establishment closed was probably about 2 minutes longer than I needed. There are only 16 tanks, including some the size of gold-fish bowls, and the most impressive part of the facility are the gorgeous, old-fashioned murals that adorn the cement walls outside. I think it is those murals that convince tourists to part with $5 as once inside there isn’t much to see. Amongst the denizens of the deep are found the now-common assortment of Horn Sharks, Swell Sharks, Leopard Sharks and California Moray Eels, plus California Scorpionfish, California Spiny Lobster, Pacific Seahorse, Thornback Ray, Red Octopus, Southern Kelp Crab and Red Swamp Crawfish.
Zoo/Aquarium #28: Roundhouse Marine Studies Lab & Aquarium
After my gut-inducing troubles visiting the Santa Monica facility, I spent almost an hour walking back along the trail next to the sand and marveling at the gorgeous beaches and jam-packed, happy atmosphere as dusk began to rear its head. The Santa Monica/Venice Beach area is absolutely a must-see and I’m glad that I was able to slowly walk back (more of a stagger) to my minivan. By now it was almost 7:00 and I knew that Roundhouse Marine Studies Lab & Aquarium closed at 8:00 and so I drove down the coast for about 30 minutes, parked for free many blocks away, and had the glorious glow of the sun dimming on the packed beaches and long, popular pier. Rather than the rampant commercialism of Santa Monica/Venice Beach, here was quiet interlude and loads of surfers braving the waves even as the light of the day began to ebb away. At the very end of the long pier is a single structure, an aquarium located in a historic pavilion building that has seen better days.
This rundown, fairly poor aquarium is perhaps most famous for being the backdrop to a film that I saw at least 5 times back in the early 1990’s. Falling Down stars Michael Douglas and Robert Duvall, directed by hit-and-miss filmmaker Joel Schumacher, and the climax and final ten minutes of the movie were filmed on the pier and a few feet from the Roundhouse Aquarium. As a major film buff, watching 250+ movies each year, I appreciated visiting just for the location. Inside are 21 tanks, with at least 4 of them devoid of life, and the usual local critters are here along with a real messy, haphazard, disaster of a layout. There are signs posted outside stating that a permit has been placed for a renovation of the Roundhouse and it could be a beautiful little facility with a couple of million dollars in refurbishment.
It is astonishing at how many small aquariums along the California coastline (Morro Bay, Central Coast, Santa Monica, Roundhouse, Ocean Institute and Doheny at Dana Point, etc.) are all tiny little places with an average of only 15-20 tanks. Yet they are all in great locations, with a steady stream of tourist traffic in the summer months and due to the nice weather there is probably still enough visitors to keep things going in the winter months. If one includes the marine mammal centers and SeaWorld parks the USA has close to 150 aquariums and yet there is continued public demand and something like 70 new aquariums have made their debut just since 1990. The species list at Roundhouse includes: Horn Shark, Swell Shark, Leopard Shark, California Moray Eel, Sarcastic Fringhead, Sheephead and a preserved Humboldt Squid.