DAY 24: Tuesday, August 6th (1 zoo)
Zoo/Aquarium # 78: Burgers' Zoo (Arnhem, NL)
Zoo #499 all-time.
This privately-run, family-owned zoo opened in 1913 and is known as Burgers’ Zoo because of the founder Johan Burgers. There are well over a million annual visitors and many zoo nerds declare that this place is the best zoo in the Netherlands. As much as I loved Blijdorp earlier in the trip, I would have to agree that Burgers’ Zoo sets the standard for this country’s zoos. The facility has what it deems to be ‘ecodisplays’, and the park is divided up into thematic areas known as Bush, Ocean, Desert, Safari, Rimba, Mangrove and Park, all being built in different eras but coming together to form a world-class zoological garden. I had my own private guide in the form of
@lintworm who claims to have visited Burgers’ Zoo on 500 occasions in his 27 years. He toured the whole zoo with me, pointing out a lot of little things that a regular visitor would never notice, plus he told me about the history of the establishment. We were joined for most of the day by
@Mr. Zootycoon who is a young guy that knows quite a bit about Dutch zoos and so together we formed an impressive trio of zoo nerds. Instead of a big species list at the end of this trip, I'll make a list of all the zoo enthusiasts that I have met!
Burgers’ Bush opened in 1988 and annual attendance immediately doubled from 600,000 to 1.2 million in a single year, which is the exact same occurrence that happened when Omaha built Lied Jungle in 1992. Burgers’ Bush was the catalyst for change at the zoo and the Bush experience is a terrific one because the building has truly become a jungle over the past 31 years. Everything appears to be slightly damp, there are dirt trails off to one side, signage is minimal, there is a jungle-like smell in the air and at some points the air is thick with humidity, especially near the top by the roof. There are hundreds of anoles all over the place and we must have seen well over a dozen, plus there are 35 bird species and hundreds of birds in total. Mammal-wise, I saw an Aardvark, a couple of Small-clawed Otters, a couple of bats and a Capybara or two…and that’s about it. There is an exhibit for Broad-snouted Caiman and a few other reptiles, plus the largest waterfall in the Netherlands. Anyone expecting larger animals like in Leipzig’s Gondwanaland or Omaha’s Lied Jungle will be sorely disappointed, as Bush is more like Zurich’s Masoala Hall. I liked Bush a lot, and days later I felt it improving in my mind, but as someone who isn’t that big into tropical birds, or doesn’t necessarily want to scour the jungle to locate a basilisk or one of only two Green Iguanas in a massive indoor rainforest, my only quibble would be that Bush needs a few more marquee species. I’m not talking about tapirs and gibbons all over the joint, but why not a few marmosets, tamarins or even a handful of sloths? Bush sets about creating a realistic atmosphere inside a human-made jungle and it does a wonderful job of evoking a true ‘Bush’. We actually spent two periods of the day going through this building and it is known as one of the great zoo Tropical Houses of the world.
Burgers’ Desert opened in 1994 and it can be accessed via a long, dark mine shaft from the Bush building to the Desert. There are a few vivariums, a mock cave and a lot of artifacts in the tunnel, and the initial view when walking into Desert is excellent. The Mexican-American landscape is the focus, with Bighorn Sheep, Collared Peccary and Bobcat as the three large mammal species on-show to the public. There are two exhibits for Ringtails (we saw 4 of the creatures), quite a few reptiles, and the guidebook that I purchased that morning lists almost 15 bird species with Turkey Vultures and Roadrunners as the two largest. Just like in the Bush building, Desert has a bewildering array of plant life, including large Saguaro Cacti area and a plethora of desert plants in the arid environment. Desert is probably half the size of Bush, but still a great zoological experience and the temperature was nice as it didn’t actually reach ‘desert-like’ conditions.
Burger’s Ocean opened in 2000 and it contains the largest living coral reef aquarium tank on the planet (outside of one location in Queensland, Australia) in a zone that is specifically Indo-Pacific. We stared at it for a long time and in fact sat down to watch the ecosystem in action. It’s an amazing recreation of nature, as if a tiny chunk of the Great Barrier Reef was flown to Arnhem and deposited in a world-class zoo. It took many years to build up the network of coral to make the reef effective and self-sustaining and now almost 20 years later it apparently looks better than ever. The Ocean building, which is actually entered via the Bush building, has a theme in that the first thing visitors see is a small beach and lagoon zone, then as the path winds down through some mock-rock caves, the ocean becomes deeper and deeper until it emerges at a gorgeous shark tank with dark background walls so that large sharks come out from nowhere. The Ocean building doesn’t contain a lot of tanks (less than a dozen), but what is there is of a very high quality and some of the tanks are enormous.
Burgers’ Rimba opened in 2008 and the highlight of the day occurred here because we had a clear view of a Sun Bear cub, with a second cub barely seen behind the mother on the edge of the indoor quarters. The first-ever birth of a Sun Bear in the Netherlands has made the zoo proud and we watched the youngster for a number of minutes. This part of the zoo has a South-East Asian theme and there was another treat in the form of a mixed-species habitat with 6 species that continues the excellent European tradition of combining different groups of animals. In one large exhibit can be found Banteng, Eld’s Deer, Hog Deer, Reeves’ Muntjac, Pig-tailed Macaque and Siamang. There are hotwired trees and many ropes so that the Siamang cannot come down and mingle with the other 5 species, but it all seems to work beautifully. Other species in Rimba include Sumatran Tiger, Binturong and Spectacled Langur.
Burgers’ Mangrove opened in 2017 and is a large domed building that doesn’t have a lot of big-name species but is nevertheless exceptional and it is the largest indoor mangrove structure in the world. There are three Caribbean Manatees, including a youngster, in a spacious pool, many butterflies in all directions, a few birds and at least one species of lizard, and the other main inhabitants are a lot of Mudplane Crabs and Fiddler Crabs. Seeing the public gathered around, pointing out crabs to each other and being thoughtfully engaged with the ecosystem presented in front of them, was a rewarding experience.
I’ve gone through 5 of the 7 ‘ecodisplays’ and in chronological order of when they opened. Bush (1988), Desert (1994), Ocean (2000), Rimba (2008) and Mangrove (2017) have together revolutionized Burgers’ Zoo over the past 30 years. What is truly amazing, though, is how the oldest two sections of the zoo arguably contain some of the real highlights.
Burgers’ Safari used to be a drive-through section, including a part where African Lions could be all around the vehicles of visitors. Those days are long gone, but along one lengthy stretch of walking trail are extremely large exhibits for African Lions and Cheetahs. On the other side, coming back towards the main part of the zoo, is a truly massive African Savanna with species such as Rothschild Giraffe, White Rhino, Grant’s Zebra, Ellipsen Waterbuck, Roan Antelope and others, including some holding yards that are the size of some entire antelope exhibits at urban zoos. A major flaw to the Safari area is that it involves a lot of walking for only a few enclosures, and animals are occasionally seen at a great distance away. There is enough space for the zoo to easily add a dozen small-mammal exhibits, or an African aviary, or at least something else to keep visitors engaged.
Burgers’ Park is the final area, found in different sections of the zoo, and the main two attractions are a pair of 1970s-era great ape habitats. Lowland Gorillas have a spacious, grassy exhibit for a large troop, and Chimpanzees have an even bigger exhibit that allows them to showcase their natural behaviours. (How Krefeld’s chimps would benefit from such an experience!). There are many viewing areas of these superb enclosures, and my only complaint is the main pair of covered viewing areas are dead-ends, thus creating congestion on busy days. This part of the zoo also has some flamingos, macropods, and a very old Bird House that
@lintworm suspects is on its last legs. Up by the front of the zoo is a solitary Asian Elephant (awaiting a companion) who lives in an adequate exhibit that clearly will not be there forever. Nearby is a brand-new area that contains Ring-tailed Lemurs, Black Lemurs, Coatis and Squirrel Monkeys that meets the typically high standards of this zoo. Meerkats, Reindeer, leopards and even a great zoo rarity, in the form of Golden Jackals, rounds out this zone.
Burgers’ Zoo was a 6-hour experience for me, and I felt that I saw every single exhibit and even every playground, of which there are several nice ones, and my traveling companions chuckled as I took a quick peek at various slides, swings and climbing equipment. I think that it's important to see almost every inch of a zoo, not just the major animal habitats. This review is not entirely comprehensive in terms of lists of species, but I've still provided a long overview. It sounds weird to say this, but for a zoo often hailed as one of Europe’s premier zoological establishments, that aren’t a lot of animals. Insects are basically nonexistent, the whole zoo contains around 20 species of reptile and amphibian, there are approximately 55 mammal species (less than the obscure Little Rock Zoo in Arkansas!), with birds at 80 species and fish around 200 thanks to the Ocean aquatic building. The thing with Burgers’ Zoo is that ‘less is more’ appears to be the mantra. I’d personally like a few more small mammals in Bush and Desert, and maybe a few more exhibits in Ocean (for example Blijdorp has a ton of animals in its Oceanium) and Safari, but that is not the point of Burgers’ Zoo. Visitors have to look hard to see any creatures and a zoo visit is about experiencing different biomes and ecosystems rather than simply looking at animals in enclosures.
The zoo is an experience.
The Netherlands is not a very large country in term of geography, but there are plenty of great zoos within its borders. From the nation’s most popular,
Artis Royal Zoo in Amsterdam, to a couple of zoos that are right up there amidst the best zoos in all of Europe (
Burgers’ Zoo in Arnhem and
Blijdorp in Rotterdam), to the world’s foremost primate zoo (
Apenheul), to Europe’s largest marine mammal park (
Harderwijk) and other big, popular facilities like
Beekse Bergen and
Ouwehands. The establishment known as
GaiaZOO was a pleasant surprise, as were so many others as I’ve now toured 41 Dutch zoos. The initial plan was to visit exactly 50 zoos in the Netherlands, but that next-door neighbour Germany, with its colossal behemoths, kept tugging at me to come over and play. So, reluctant to leave one of the world’s great zoo nations in the shape of the Netherlands, and let us not forget about the magnificent trio of
Antwerp,
Planckendael and
Pairi Daiza in Belgium, I am diving back into Germany for yet another week of German brilliance. I haven’t entirely given up my love affair with the Dutch, as I have a couple of big, popular zoos left there for the very end of the trip (
Emmen and
Amersfoort), but here comes Germany!