DAY 32: Wednesday, August 14th (2 zoos)
I have an extremely long review and then a fairly short review to finish off my 95-zoo odyssey.
On Tuesday night I made my way to Groningen, in the Netherlands, and I met up with
@jwer . His real name is Jan and he’s a 37-year-old zoo nerd who is a certified accountant. He is married, with a well-behaved 6-month-old daughter, and he’s been to at least 80 different zoos in his lifetime. Jan was the 11th and final zoo enthusiast that I met on this trip and all 11 contacted me and offered me a range of items to make my trip easier and smoother throughout Europe. I showed up at Jan’s house, which, incidentally, dates from the 1920s and is a very nice Dutch home, and we had a blast talking all about zoos. His wife and daughter joined us as they ordered delicious Chinese food and it was a feast, and in many ways felt like my ‘last supper’ as the following night I’d eat McDonald’s alone in my hotel room. I felt that at Jan’s house I was able to have a full dinner for one of the very few times on this entire trip.
I was originally going to stay with Jan and his family for 3 nights, but I canceled those plans when I veered east towards the mighty German trio of Hagenbeck, Berlin Zoo and Berlin Tierpark, and so it became just the single evening. However, we clicked, and things went well and before I knew it, he was showering me with gifts. Jan gave me all of his zoo guidebooks, a collection of at least 40 of them, plus at least 40 zoo maps to add to my collection. Even though they weighed a ton, I happily said yes and offered payment, but he donated them to my private collection that is now at more than 1,900 different zoo maps and around 270 guidebooks after this trip. Jan and I then agreed to spend the day together and visit two zoos for my final day of ‘zoo-ing’ before I had to catch an early flight on Thursday morning. The generosity given to me is actually quite humbling, even when I think about it now as I type up this report. I’m going to mention the 11 people that I met, once again, on my final day report.
Zoo/Aquarium # 94: Wildlands Adventure Zoo Emmen (Emmen, NL)
Jan and I drove for about an hour to Emmen and thanks to his keen knowledge of the area we managed to secure free parking. Many zoo enthusiasts regularly spent time in the old Emmen Zoo, which closed down in late 2015/early 2016 after 80 years of operation. There was the sense that the zoo, while still beloved, was hampered by its size and needed a larger location to expand. At a cost of more than 200 million Euros, the entire old zoo was abandoned and just a few minutes down the road a totally brand-new zoo opened to the public in early 2016.
We brought with us a 2004 map of the old Emmen Zoo and for a full hour Jan and I walked the grounds of the now closed facility. It was a bit eerie for me, and a wave of nostalgia crashed over Jan as we walked through the old zoo entrance gate, past animal buildings that have now been turned into shops, and the old elephant paddocks (cow and bull) are easy enough to locate as they are essentially unchanged. There is even an elephant path that leads from the main exhibit to the barn and it must have been a thrill to see the pachyderms walking along that trail. We walked past a gibbon island, with plenty of ropes still hanging from trees, a lookout building (with stairs removed) that used to allow visitors to look down on big cats, an area filled in that once had baboons, a kangaroo exhibit, more primate areas and even the big Tropical House that is now filled with junk but the pathways and some of the interior aviaries are all still intact. It’s like a ‘ghost town zoo’ and the Moose/American Bison area looks as if it could be inhabited at any moment. We saw geriatric sheep grazing where there was once White Rhinos and Giraffes on the African Savanna, and we met a man who runs the animal sanctuary that now takes up a big building on the right-hand side of the zoo. It is where the petting farm always was, but now there are more than 100 volunteers who look after the animals in a rescue facility setup, and the man took us behind the scenes to see the mice, rats, gerbils, hamsters and chinchillas in the old Emmen Zoo ‘rat sewer’ exhibits. The entire hour was a fascinating experience and I’m so glad that I had an old zoo map and a great guide in Jan to point out where the many animal exhibits once stood…and in some cases still stand today.
The ‘new’ Emmen Zoo has the title of ‘Wildlands’ and there has been a push towards a more themed, adventure-based experience. Even though the old zoo had circa 300 species, Wildlands opened with less than 100 species and with themed zones rather than a traditional zoo approach. A massively increased admission fee didn’t go over well with many visitors, but the first year of operation was a resounding success with 1.3 million visitors, dramatically exceeding the numbers at the old zoo. However, a disgruntled public made their feelings known and changes have been made since then. For example, Wildlands had minimal signage for the first two years of operation, preferring visitors to ‘explore’ on their own. Due to a backlash, there are now signs everywhere like a standard zoo, which Wildlands was claiming not to be. Also, two years in, the new zoo had annual memberships drop by 50% as the public weren’t impressed with what was being offered to them.
To give credit to the management of Wildlands, they did listen to visitors. The reintegration of zoos signs was a positive first step. The halting of music playing from hidden speakers in all directions was another bonus, something that was apparently common when the new zoo opened and now has basically been eradicated. Million of Euros were the annual losses for the past couple of years, and Wildlands has since reduced all ticket prices to encourage visitors to return. Just when the new zoo was starting to actually look like a proper zoo, a roller-coaster was added last year that is a blight on the landscape. Does Wildlands want to have some traditional zoological elements, or does it want to go in the direction of a theme park? What kind of identity does the zoo have? These are questions for which I fear that there are no answers.
I found a website that lists the attendance figures for the Emmen zoo(s):
2011 – 695,000 visitors
2012 – 700,000 visitors
2013 – 672,000 visitors
2014 – 675,000 visitors
2015 – 779,000 visitors (when it was publicly known that the old zoo was permanently closing)
2016 – 1.3 million (first year of Wildlands was a huge success)
2017 – 1 million (a steeper than expected drop-off in year two)
2018 – 855,000 (the zoo is now spiraling into debt)
2019 – will things continue to plummet, or will the zoo stabilize itself?
To go from 1.3 million visitors in 2016 and then a couple of years later that number tumbles by 450,000 is scary. Millions of Euros in debt has piled up, with Wildlands not appreciated by zoo nerds or, crucially, the general public. The old zoo was apparently at least a 6-hour experience, with several animal buildings that soak up time. I know that Tim Brown was done and dusted with the Wildlands Adventure Zoo Emmen in 3 hours and he takes his time around zoos. Jan and I were done in 2.5 hours, and with the high cost of admission and 200 fewer species than the older zoo, it is no wonder that this ‘new’ zoo has basically been a disaster. What can it do to recover and steady the ship? I’d be intrigued to know what ZooChatters think of this whole situation, as the best-case scenario is that Wildlands becomes self-sufficient, perhaps expands with yet more new exhibits, and slowly succeeds in the realm of public opinion. One could make the argument that Wildlands is still pulling in more visitors than the old Emmen Zoo was prior to its closure, but with the enormous cost of running everything Wildlands is a financial nightmare.
After that lengthy introduction, let us take a look at the zoo. It is divided into three main areas, each with clear, one-way trails, with a fourth zone primarily aimed at young children.
Jungola: Tropical Jungle World – Jan and I headed here first, and in truth this section took us a full hour and it is the best part of the whole zoo. I unabashedly really enjoyed this area, and it contains what is prominently described as “Europe’s biggest indoor jungle!” Considering that there is Masoala Hall in Zurich, Burgers’ Bush in Arnhem, and Gondwanaland in Leipzig, the fact that the new Emmen zoo has what could be the largest rainforest tropical building is a bold statement right there. The first thing that visitors see is actually a totally separate, fairly small Tropical House with butterflies in all directions. The centrepiece is an African Dwarf Crocodile exhibit, but there are apparently also some lizards free-roaming, plus exhibits for the likes of Reticulated Python, Emerald Monitor and Giant African Millipede together, Archerfish, and some turtles, poison dart frogs and fish. The whole thing is nicely done, although most visitors probably spend a maximum of ten minutes here because it is very tiny.
Back outside, there is a stunning view over the Asian Elephant exhibit with its unique rock-work and large pools, over to the vast Tropical House in the distance. Indoor housing for Squirrel Monkeys and Agoutis is passed, and here is an extraordinary fact. The Squirrel Monkeys have no containment! Jan and I chatted with a volunteer and he said that there is a single male monkey and 17 females, and the lure of food and shelter is enough to stop the monkeys rampaging through the nearby streets of Emmen. It’s all true, as there are no hotwired trees and we saw a few monkeys ranging far from their indoor quarters. There are no metal grates that visitors walk over, no sectioned-off zones, literally nothing at all to stop the 18 Squirrel Monkeys from taking off with a Canadian zoo enthusiast. Wow. That takes European minimal barriers to a whole new level. The long, textured Asian Elephant exhibit is actually quite original and impressive, with beautiful sight-lines and a robust herd. It’s easily one of the better elephant complexes that I’ve seen on this trip.
We then plunged into Europe’s largest Tropical House, with primates such as Ring-tailed Lemur, Black and White Ruffed Lemur, Colombian Spider Monkey and White-handed Gibbons in side habitats and ‘Birdy Bush’ for Rainbow Lorikeets. There are free-ranging Leaf-cutter Ants, as we saw a colony on a tree trunk and then in a separate area we again came across hundreds of ants roaming the cement floor and quite far from their original location. When a Rodrigues Flying Fox flew by while we were looking at the ants, a jungle atmosphere was authentically created. There are free-roaming species that are probably next to impossible to locate, such as Tokay Gecko and Madagascar Giant Day Gecko, plus small, almost hidden terrariums for the likes of Mexican Red-knee Tarantula, African Clawed Frog and various poison dart frogs. These exhibits are near the boat ride, which we took, and it is a pleasant-enough 10-minute journey with one part going past a crashing waterfall and then a tunnel, both of which are difficult to see from the main visitor path. The last section is the indoor quarters for the elephants, once again up there with the best in Europe. There are numerous birds flying around, an eating establishment, a treetop canopy walk for those brave enough to take to the heights, and a kid-friendly atmosphere.
Emerging from the vast jungle, we walked past the opposite side of the Asian Elephant exhibit and past a decent Small-clawed Otter enclosure that utilizes the same mock-rock sandstone style as what is found in the elephant paddock. Considering that the elephant area is very good, the free-ranging Squirrel Monkeys are delightful, and that the Tropical House is only going to get better with age as the foliage continues to grow, there are a multitude of positives to take away from this part of the zoo. It takes a full hour to see everything and without a doubt I think that Jungola is the premier attraction at Wildlands Adventure Zoo Emmen.
Serenga: Hot and Dry World – The next loop also takes a full hour to tour, if one ignores the ridiculous roller-coaster that was added in 2018 and taints the landscape from certain angles. The zoo has gone with names such as Jungola and Serenga so that animals from all continents can be displayed without fear that the zoogeographic police will come knocking. There are Dwarf Mongooses, free-ranging Black-tailed Prairie Dogs (and in fact we saw one bolt for freedom as again there don't seem to be any barriers), a dusty farmyard area, before visitors come across a truly spectacular Common Hippo exhibit. It used to be the penguin enclosure at the old Emmen Zoo and now has a substantial land area, a deep, crystal-clear pool and at least 5 hippos that don’t do a lot and yet somehow are still fantastic to watch underwater. Swamp Wallabies and Rheas are together in a walk-through area, just as they would be in the Australian Outback, and then there is a long trail past a huge African Lion exhibit that has massive mock-rock boulders and a sloping hillside habitat for the big cats.
The large, sprawling African Savanna has Rothschild’s Giraffes, White Rhinos, Impala, Defassa Waterbuck, Blue Wildebeest, Plains Zebra and Helmeted Guineafowl in a nice-looking exhibit that is badly marred by the sight of a roller-coaster on one side, the backdrop of the city of Emmen on another, the huge Tropical House in Jungola, and the ridiculous safari trucks that drive through the paved road that is all around and through the African Savanna. I defy anyone to name a zoo with an African Savanna with worse sight-lines than this one in Emmen. On a positive note, there are Red River Hogs, a very nice Meerkat exhibit that appears to melt into the horizon (there’s no roller-coaster behind that sucker!), at least 100 Hamadryas Baboons in a dusty, rocky, themed exhibit, Ostriches in a side yard, and then Bactrian Camels and Onagers that are viewed through train carriages. The entire Serenga area has some decent sections (hippos, meerkats, baboons) but the central savanna becomes worse the more I think about it.
Animazia: Young Adventurer’s World – This is a building that is an offshoot of Serenga, and it’s mainly a spectacular indoor play area that is a bit dark in places but themed as a giant ship amidst ocean waves. For zoo enthusiasts it is vital not to skip this area, partly because it is a remnant of the ‘old zoo’, and partly because there is a nice aquarium tank with schools of fish and at least 4 Green Sea Turtles, plus elsewhere has an all-indoor African Spurred Tortoise enclosure and then a cave-like area for Naked Mole Rats and even a row of 5 aquarium tanks against the wall. It’s mainly a family-friendly building, but a 10-minute jaunt for a couple of zoo nerds was about all the time that was needed.
Nortica: Icy Cold World – This final area has a pair of Polar Bear exhibits that are pretty good for the bears, but both the overhead and underwater viewing areas are compromised due to a complete lack of space for visitors. By the time we arrived at this final stop at around noon, the zoo was packed, and the crowds were overwhelming. Even though the zoo’s annual attendance has plummeted from its opening year, it was still busy during our visit to Nortica. The bear exhibits are decent, if all a bit ‘industrial’, and next door are Humboldt Penguins, a Snowy Owl aviary, and then a series of pinniped pools for the likes of Harbour Seals (excellent), California Sea Lions and South American Fur Seals (industrial-looking). According to the visitor booklet, there are a couple of tiny additions arriving in a few months. The first is called ‘Whale Experience’ and we should all keep our fingers crossed that it’s not some sort of ‘blowhole 4-D’ crap. The second is called ‘Sea Aquarium’ and that sounds a little more promising.
Wildlands Adventure Zoo Emmen is, by all accounts, a facility that has struggled to adapt to the whims of the public. With the old zoo, much beloved, now an empty series of paddocks, Wildlands has an opportunity to define itself and push towards some forward momentum. Is adding a roller-coaster, as occurred last year, the way to go? Considering that attendance numbers have gone down the proverbial drain, wouldn’t the addition of an animal-based attraction be the intelligent approach? As things stand right now, Animazia is for kids, Nortica is too small, Serenga is a disjointed hot mess, and that leaves the genuinely excellent Jungola, containing possibly the largest Tropical House on the continent, as the one and only excellent part of Wildlands Adventure Zoo Emmen. I’ll watch from afar to see what this zoo does over the years, but unless there’s an addition of a roller-coaster or a zipline that allows me to simultaneously hug a meerkat and attempt to breast-feed a hyena at the same time…then I am not going back. Now that would be a true ‘Adventure’!
We then drove for more than an hour to the next zoo.
Zoo/Aquarium # 95: Dierenpark Amersfoort (Amersfoort, NL)
Here is the end of the line. My 95th and final zoo of this month-long European journey, and my 516th zoo all-time. Amersfoort opened in 1948 and is a major Dutch zoo, with 800,000 annual visitors on its approximately 44 acres/18 hectares. I had to pay for another zoo map, but I didn’t care because on it there is a sentence that states “All profits from this map will help plant new trees in Ecuador”. I told the cashier that I collect different zoo maps and so I’d like one to walk around and wrinkle while at the zoo, and then another, pristine copy for my collection. He became very interested that I was closing in on 2,000 maps all-time and I received two free maps to trade with others. That was a good sign before I had even entered the zoo!
Amersfoort is a quirky, odd zoo that at times seems to cater exclusively to families. There isn’t anything deliberate in its layout, with a maze-like visitor path (especially in the central areas) that snakes all over the place without any rhyme or reason. Animals from different continents are placed side-by-side, there are traditional cages next to themed zones, and the whole thing is a mixture of everything that one could like or dislike in a major zoological garden. It’s an awesome zoo for kids, with pedal boats in a river-like setting, a mini train, a carousel, a small race track, an overhead zipline near the White Storks, a whole forest filled with dinosaur statues (although none are animatronic) and plenty of curious additions next to animal exhibits. Besides the huge playgrounds and eating venues, there is an enclosed rope bridge that goes over and through the European Brown Bear exhibit, a small castle-like structure that overlooks the new African Lion exhibit (with the male lion sitting in a big green pioneer wagon!), pop-up bubbles in the Prairie Dog exhibit (and a cool, kid-friendly elevator that descends into the tunnel), and play areas adjacent to a long list of animal exhibits. I’d easily spend a full day at this zoo if I visited with my 4 kids.
For zoo nerds, the zoo offers up several impressive exhibits. The small Nocturnal House is terrific, and borderline outstanding, as there are walk-through areas with Douroucouli’s, Two-toed Sloths and Long-nosed Potoroos poking around in the dark. Lorises, Galagos and Brush-tailed Porcupines are also here, with the first two in a glassed-exhibit, but curiously no bats anywhere. There’s a big African Savanna with giraffes and zebras, plus some antelope, an above-average Asian Elephant complex, a brilliant walk-through aviary of considerable size, and yet another European speciality with dozens of Hamadryas Baboons in a dusty, long enclosure. I took very few photos and just kind of chilled and enjoyed the zoo, plus I had Jan as my guide, and he’s visited Amersfoort on 6 or 7 occasions.
There are many popular animals, with elephants, giraffes, rhinos (Greater One-horned), lions, tigers, bears, probably 10 primate species (including a troop of Chimpanzees in a very old-fashioned cage), and a small Reptile House area on the top floor of the building next to the Giraffe Barn. A real highlight was watching a pair of European Badgers gambol around their nicely-landscaped enclosure, near a spacious Grey Wolf habitat deep in the forest. A feature of Amersfoort is that the zoo is set inside a forest, with plenty of towering trees all around and a sense of being enclosed in a thick, wooded park. It’s a good zoo for enthusiasts, a fabulous zoo for families, and definitely worth visiting. It’s all a bit of the good, the bad and the ugly, but I was more than happy to end my tour of European zoos with a quirky oddity.
I then dropped Jan off at the train station just down the road and I ended yet another very long day by heading for an hour-drive to Amsterdam. I had 95 zoos done and dusted, 516 zoos all-time, and tomorrow I’d be flying back home to British Columbia, Canada.
This thread is not over, as I will continue to post relevant information in the coming days as a kind of summary of my European journey. Stay tuned and thanks for following along as it's been an amazing experience.