Sundabirds Are Go - FunkyGibbon, Indonesia, Take Three

FunkyGibbon

Well-Known Member
I've been in Indonesia for over a week now. This trip has been planned for a long time, to take advantage of a period of relative calm and prosperity in my life. However, due to various complications, especially Covid-19, in the last few weeks prior to the trip starting the actual itinerary (previously carefully crafted) entered a state of almost constant flux that is, and will likely remain, ongoing.

This is going to be a casual trip thread. I will be keeping posts short, with a focus on items of interest to the forum, but allowing extraneous material to seep in as well. Please ask for more details about stuff that interests you, it's always easier to write when you know someone wants that specific information.

My initial itinerary was Taiwan (six days) - Mainland China (ten days)- Vietnam (nine days) - Malaysia (one day) - Indonesia (a lot of days). I was supposed to fly to China on February 20th, but for obvious reasons that didn't happen. As @CGSwans can attest in the weeks before I became unhealthily (oh the irony) obsessed with tracking the progress of the virus and trying to understand how and when my trip-leg would become untenable. As it happened the flights being cancelled were the final nail in the coffin. So I shifted everything else forward, the Vietnam leg got truncated because the key requirement was to be there over a weekend and I would now arrive on Thursday not Sunday, and I was good to go.

I was in Taiwan to organise future life plans; hopefully I will move there in the autumn. For this reason I didn't visit Taipei or any other zoos, but I did by chance see Taiwanesee macaques in Kaohsiung.

In Vietnam, with more time I would probably have gone back to Van Long to try to see Delacour's Langur, but as it was my main focus was visiting friends. I did finally visit Hanoi Zoo on my third time in the city; see my limited comments here:
I visited Hanoi yesterday and Saigon in 2016. I'm firmly in the Maguari camp.

I think Chli is right about the bird area, although it sounds like there are now less species and more peacocks. And so, so many rats.

The macaque cages are correctly diagnosed as pretty abysmal.

Where I disagree with the review above is that I don't really feel the other mammal area is much better. The small mammal row is just as bad as a bunch of Asian zoos imo, although I appreciate there are climbing opportunities there. Bengal cat and common palm civet are now present, as well as golden cat and binturong nearby. The big carnivore cages are not good. I suspect they are average in size for Asia, but only because they are caged and not moated. One currently holds a clouded leopard with no climbing opportunities. The elephant exhibit is as Chli describes, but it's worth noting that being on the edge of the lake it actually has a rather nice aspect.

This is my third time in Hanoi and the first time I've bothered with the zoo. It only needs an hour, and costs 20,000VND, but is still barely worth the effort. From my memory I really think anyone not looking to bolster their lifelist is better off just going to Saigon, which although not strictly better has a much larger collection, and crucially one of my favourite exhibits in the world: that glorious langur cage.

My one day stop in Malaysia (really a layover) got extended because I finally found out why one of my bank cards wasn't working, and it wasn't good. For an awful morning it looked like I might be obliged to go to China to unlock it. The situation at that point was already much improved, but travel restrictions had not, and have not, changed to reflect that and it would have meant sacrificing about a month of Indonesia (one week in waiting for documents, one week actually in China, and then two weeks in a third party country waiting for Indonesia to let me in). However, almost miraculously, a solution was discovered and so I was faced with either rushing to catch my flight that afternoon or rebooking a few days later and giving myself time to do the things I'd planned in KL and abandoned in the face of financial calamity. I chose the latter, and ended up with three days to play with, so I snuck in a quick hour at KLCC Aquaria and then headed off to Taiping.

Time for another update. This was probably my fifth visit to KL, not really sure why I didn't go to Aquaria before. I guess it sort of became a habit.

Admission is now 75 Ringgit for non-Malaysians. See my thoughts at the end as to whether its worth it.

The initial tank, piranha with human skeleton, is a bit classless, but following this is a nice corridor with lots of small exhibits. Some are terrariums, but most are little aquariums with tetras and so on. I really liked these.

The otter and coypu exhibits now only hold otters, so although it's still the low point it's only half as bad as it was before.

Going downstairs, you are greeted with what is one of the coolest tanks I've actually ever seen. In an Amazon-themed area, there is one relatively shallow tank with mock-rock sides. Rising out of this, enclosed in a cylindrical tank, is a fake tree all the way to the ceiling. It's a simple idea, and didn't need to be executed well to be highly effective.

Other than a mudskipper tank with some very large specimens, nice theming and not a lot of water, the main final thrust of the aquarium is a conveyer belt tunnel that goes through a shark tank and I think a separate ocean tank. It's totally fine.

There's a bit of 'lab' area with lots of educational material. The aquarium really should be praised for its interpretative signage, which is comprehensive, visually appealing and interesting. Right up there with the best I've seen. Here as well, for 2020 only, is a display of rat skins (Chinese year of the rat). A bit bizarre, but also some very unusual species. Also, two degu in a pet-shop cage!

Aquaria almost needs to be stretched to make it a one hour visit. It sort of feels like a small SeaLife. 'For Asia', though, it's of a high standard and I think you would be prepared to pay the entry fee in the UK, so you should probably pay it here. In a city which has a fairly desultory zoo* and similarly underwhelming bird park, this aquarium feels both at home and ahead of the pack.

*I like Zoo Negara less than most people.

Thoughts on Taiping Zoo:

It's really good. Like maybe top five in Asia good. But there are some concerns as well. For starters, it's very strong in mammals, better than some places for birds, but has almost zero reptiles. Also, although it's very good on mammals overall, it's curiously weak on primates.

Most of the enclosures are great. The small carnivore exhibits are better than most in Europe, but apes also do well, there's a nice savannah and a huge leopard cage. The only real eyesore is the small elephant exhibit, but this was more than made up for by seeing a full herd with lots of young. Very atypical for Asia.

Once you know they have marbled cat the rest of the species line-up is almost irrelevant, but it's no slouch. Other highlights are large Indian civet, banded palm civet, bearded pig (unseen), bawean deer, Asiatic golden cat, gaur, smooth-coated otter, blue-cowned hanging parrot and lesser mousedeer.

At 16 ringgit for day entry it's excellent value as well. I only have two negative comments:

Firstly, there are a few too many empty exhibits and generally a lot of metalwork is rusty. The zoo just feels a bit unkempt, despite the fact that essential maintenance seems to be being done. Even though it's nothing like Melaka, it can feel a little like Melaka.

The second is that I found the Night Safari to be underwhelming. You have to leave the zoo at 6pm and wait two hours for it to reopen at 8. Then you pay 20 ringgit for a new ticket.

On my visit it was pouring with rain. I wouldn't have bothered but for the fact I thought I'd get better views of the civets (as opposed to curled-up balls). I was told to get onto the safari tram, but I interpreted what I suspected was an instruction as an invitation and disappeared off onto the walking path. The first section was completely unlit, despite containing many of the nocturnal animals, and I was very lucky I had brought my torch. After this section the path was lit, with lamps about 30cm high that were far too bright and destroyed my night vision.

There will always be something special about wandering a zoo at night, but other places do it far better than Taiping. Also, didn't get better views of the civets.

Overall a great visit, and the marbled cat certainly makes it worth the trip up from KL.

I arrived in Banda Aceh on March 1st, intending to see the city, do a little snorkeling in Pulau Weh, an island off the coast, and then head south. However, what actually happened is that I spent a week on Pulau Weh attempting to learn to freedive and generally enjoying a pretty idyllic island lifestyle. Although I didn't do any specific nature watching, I still saw a number of cool species like hawksbill turtle, sea snake, zebra moray, collared kingfisher and possibly blue-spotted stingray.

After that I took the ferry back to Banda Aceh and got on an eight hour minibus to Takengon. It's a town of little repute, but it's halfway to Keyatambe in Guneng Leuser NP. I planned to stop for one day and enjoy the lake the town is built on, and also steel myself for another eight hours of hairpin bends and awful music. But unfortunately, as for so many others, Covid-19 has stopped me in my tracks.

I arrived here three days ago. The morning I woke up here I noticed I felt a bit off, but put it down to either food, lack of sleep, some personal stress or even just travel sickness from the day before. By the afternoon though I was quite certain I was actually ill. I was genuinely torn over what to do. It had been almost three weeks since I left Taiwan, exactly two since Hanoi, and then ten days since Malaysia. None of those places were areas where the virus was thought to have community spread.

Adding to the problem was that Takengon is a small town in the Sumatran Highlands. I assumed they wouldn't be able to test me for the virus, and so the chances of me being put into quarantine were relatively high. And I really probably didn't have the virus.

It's worth noting for context that I am a thirty year old male in good physical fitness with a hitherto overachieving immune system. I am one of the lucky ones who is genuinely unconcerned about my personal safety in this pandemic. But, in a backwater region in a developing country, there will be many who are not so fortunate. Even if Mainland China had been logistically possible I would have balked at going because of the risk of me catching Covid-19, remaining symptom-free, and then literally leaving a trail of devastation in my wake as I wandered off the beaten track in Indonesia.

With this scenario now upon me, I prepared an overnight bag, packed all of my other stuff ready to be collected if need be, put on my mask and headed to the hospital to declare my symptoms. And then an hour later I returned, having been been given a vitamin booster and an anticongestant and then sent on my way. Was I free to leave town? It felt like it. But.....

I'm here my hotel room two days later. I'm not quite in quarantine because I still have to buy my own food supplies every couple of days. But I'm doing my best and I think I'm doing the right thing. Today my symptoms have gone so in a few more days I'll feel comfortable going on the road again. For now it's just me, my breakfast biscuits and the ants.
 
I've been in Indonesia for over a week now. This trip has been planned for a long time, to take advantage of a period of relative calm and prosperity in my life. However, due to various complications, especially Covid-19, in the last few weeks prior to the trip starting the actual itinerary (previously carefully crafted) entered a state of almost constant flux that is, and will likely remain, ongoing.

This is going to be a casual trip thread. I will be keeping posts short, with a focus on items of interest to the forum, but allowing extraneous material to seep in as well. Please ask for more details about stuff that interests you, it's always easier to write when you know someone wants that specific information.

My initial itinerary was Taiwan (six days) - Mainland China (ten days)- Vietnam (nine days) - Malaysia (one day) - Indonesia (a lot of days). I was supposed to fly to China on February 20th, but for obvious reasons that didn't happen. As @CGSwans can attest in the weeks before I became unhealthily (oh the irony) obsessed with tracking the progress of the virus and trying to understand how and when my trip-leg would become untenable. As it happened the flights being cancelled were the final nail in the coffin. So I shifted everything else forward, the Vietnam leg got truncated because the key requirement was to be there over a weekend and I would now arrive on Thursday not Sunday, and I was good to go.

I was in Taiwan to organise future life plans; hopefully I will move there in the autumn. For this reason I didn't visit Taipei or any other zoos, but I did by chance see Taiwanesee macaques in Kaohsiung.

In Vietnam, with more time I would probably have gone back to Van Long to try to see Delacour's Langur, but as it was my main focus was visiting friends. I did finally visit Hanoi Zoo on my third time in the city; see my limited comments here:


My one day stop in Malaysia (really a layover) got extended because I finally found out why one of my bank cards wasn't working, and it wasn't good. For an awful morning it looked like I might be obliged to go to China to unlock it. The situation at that point was already much improved, but travel restrictions had not, and have not, changed to reflect that and it would have meant sacrificing about a month of Indonesia (one week in waiting for documents, one week actually in China, and then two weeks in a third party country waiting for Indonesia to let me in). However, almost miraculously, a solution was discovered and so I was faced with either rushing to catch my flight that afternoon or rebooking a few days later and giving myself time to do the things I'd planned in KL and abandoned in the face of financial calamity. I chose the latter, and ended up with three days to play with, so I snuck in a quick hour at KLCC Aquaria and then headed off to Taiping.





I arrived in Banda Aceh on March 1st, intending to see the city, do a little snorkeling in Pulau Weh, an island off the coast, and then head south. However, what actually happened is that I spent a week on Pulau Weh attempting to learn to freedive and generally enjoying a pretty idyllic island lifestyle. Although I didn't do any specific nature watching, I still saw a number of cool species like hawksbill turtle, sea snake, zebra moray, collared kingfisher and possibly blue-spotted stingray.

After that I took the ferry back to Banda Aceh and got on an eight hour minibus to Takengon. It's a town of little repute, but it's halfway to Keyatambe in Guneng Leuser NP. I planned to stop for one day and enjoy the lake the town is built on, and also steel myself for another eight hours of hairpin bends and awful music. But unfortunately, as for so many others, Covid-19 has stopped me in my tracks.

I arrived here three days ago. The morning I woke up here I noticed I felt a bit off, but put it down to either food, lack of sleep, some personal stress or even just travel sickness from the day before. By the afternoon though I was quite certain I was actually ill. I was genuinely torn over what to do. It had been almost three weeks since I left Taiwan, exactly two since Hanoi, and then ten days since Malaysia. None of those places were areas where the virus was thought to have community spread.

Adding to the problem was that Takengon is a small town in the Sumatran Highlands. I assumed they wouldn't be able to test me for the virus, and so the chances of me being put into quarantine were relatively high. And I really probably didn't have the virus.

It's worth noting for context that I am a thirty year old male in good physical fitness with a hitherto overachieving immune system. I am one of the lucky ones who is genuinely unconcerned about my personal safety in this pandemic. But, in a backwater region in a developing country, there will be many who are not so fortunate. Even if Mainland China had been logistically possible I would have balked at going because of the risk of me catching Covid-19, remaining symptom-free, and then literally leaving a trail of devastation in my wake as I wandered off the beaten track in Indonesia.

With this scenario now upon me, I prepared an overnight bag, packed all of my other stuff ready to be collected if need be, put on my mask and headed to the hospital to declare my symptoms. And then an hour later I returned, having been been given a vitamin booster and an anticongestant and then sent on my way. Was I free to leave town? It felt like it. But.....

I'm here my hotel room two days later. I'm not quite in quarantine because I still have to buy my own food supplies every couple of days. But I'm doing my best and I think I'm doing the right thing. Today my symptoms have gone so in a few more days I'll feel comfortable going on the road again. For now it's just me, my breakfast biscuits and the ants.
Any birds visible from your window?
 
Any birds visible from your window?
Sadly no.

I'm on the road again today. I've been symptom free for five days. Yesterday I took a scooter and rode around the lake which is really beautiful. I wasn't specifically birding but did see a lesser fish eagle and a cinercerous tit.

It's going to be another long and uncomfortable bus journey today (and the bus is already an hour and a half late leaving). Ketambe will be worth it, but as well as continuing my trip I'm mentally preparing for another extended stay somewhere if and when Sumatra goes into lockdown.
 
Are you headed anywhere where there is even a remote possibility of seeing tigers and/or elephants?
 
Are you headed anywhere where there is even a remote possibility of seeing tigers and/or elephants?
Both are technically present here, but in reality you'd have to trek for days for elephant because they keep away from human settlements. And tigers I think are basically never seen.

I am not sure about my chances at elephant elsewhere in Sumatra; I've seen them twice in Sabah (Borneo) with very little effort so we will see what turns up. I am very confident I won't be seeing wild tigers
 
I will write up a slightly longer report tomorrow if I can stomach it on the minibus, but basically today was a big success, in that I saw all the things I wanted to, and I didn't get eaten by a tiger.
Never mind being eaten, did you SEE one?
 
So I will be writing about Ketambe, but for reasons that will soon be obvious there isn't a huge rush.
I'm in Siantar today. I came for two reasons; firstly trying to get all the way to Lake Toba from Ketambe in one day is supposed to be really tough. Siantar might be the same distance, but with leas connections to make it's just easier, and then from Siantar Toba is really easy. The second reason is that I found out Siantar has a zoo and the (non-zoonerd) internet thinks it's pretty good. Given that Sumatra has several awful zoos I am hoping I won't be in the mood to visit this seemed like a good call.

By the time I arrived in Siantar I had a few things going on. Even before Ketambe the UK government had changed the Indonesian travel advice to 'Do Not'. Luckily because I'm already here my insurance is unaffected. However, it's now been made clear to me that if I stay here beyond this week I am probably locking myself in for months. To cut a long story short, I'm doing it. I'm prepared physically and financially, it will save me a lot of money, and frankly I'd rather be on the shores of mountain lake than in the West Midlands. The time has obviously come to stop travelling for the moment, so I'll move to Toba tomorrow and try to find a situation where I can settle in semi-permanently.

The hope is that when the situation eventually improves enough to keep travelling I will be way ahead of the game (not to mention UK travel warning updates). Also, I haven't seen my partner in China for over half a year now so once that option opens up I will be taking it.

Today I went to the zoo, only to find it closed yesterday for two weeks because of the virus. This is actually the first time in Indonesia I've been externally impacted by it so the timing to pause is perfect. I managed to peek over a wall and see lots of aviaries. I'm thinking that I will come back and do the zoo as a daytrip from Toba when I'm about to set off again. There's also some really interesting architecture in the countryside around here that I want to explore.

That's pretty much it from me today, the only little addendum is that I saw a Sumatran treepie in a bird market. Not a great place to see one but they don't come along that often.
 
Well, you'll certainly have plenty of opportunity to spot wildlife ;)
 
Even before Ketambe the UK government had changed the Indonesian travel advice to 'Do Not'. Luckily because I'm already here my insurance is unaffected. However, it's now been made clear to me that if I stay here beyond this week I am probably locking myself in for months. To cut a long story short, I'm doing it. I'm prepared physically and financially, it will save me a lot of money, and frankly I'd rather be on the shores of mountain lake than in the West Midlands. The time has obviously come to stop travelling for the moment, so I'll move to Toba tomorrow and try to find a situation where I can settle in semi-permanently.
How does this work with visas? Do countries sort of waive extensions and overstaying if the borders are closed?

In New Zealand there are lots of tourists panicking to get home to Europe because we just closed our borders yesterday. I'm thinking that if I was in that situation, and the choice was to go back to Europe or stay in New Zealand, I'd stay in New Zealand!
 
No subtext at all, merely the thought that even casual birding will be more fruitful than usual if you potentially have several months to do so!

We will see. I am expecting Indonesia to not take social distancing seriously at all. I don't know how long I'm actually going to be there for.

How does this work with visas? Do countries sort of waive extensions and overstaying if the borders are closed?

I'm 21 days through a 60 day visa. In normal times this can be extended up to 180 days, in chunks of 30 a time. Now Indonesia has ceased the issuing of new visa will they still do regular extensions? My assumption is yes.

Even if they don't they will have to put something in place. There will be lots of people in my position. And there's good precedent. Chinese tourists were issued emergency visa extensions in February.
 
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Ketambe - March 18th

It's been two weeks, and this post hasn't written itself so I suppose I must.
I told my bus driver I needed a place to stay so he dropped me off at Pak Mus's Guesthouse. Ketambe is just a group of buildings stretched along the highway here, so it wasn't a diversion for him. I think there are quite a few options. At 100k per night for a bungalow Pak Mus's is presumably on the cheaper end.

As an aside, I had read online that Ketambe gets about 50 tourists per year, with Bukit Lawang on the other side of the mountains having cornered the orangutan market. Given that I met more than ten foreigners the day I was there, and this was at the beginning of corona season, that's just flat out wrong.

I arranged a guide (jungle trekking) for the next day. It cost 400k which is about twenty pounds. Slightly above my per day budget but good value for what I got. Ketambe is not set up at all for self-guiding, there's no national park infrastructure beyond a tiny guard post at the edge of the village and the trails are unmarked. Most importantly though this place seems to be a genuine ecotourism success story; it's really worth supporting that.

Because I'd read that orangs and Thomas's leaf monkey were pretty easy here I was hoping to get it done in a day. My hosts were understandably keen to sell me on at least the two day 'sleep in the jungle' package. I'll discuss at the end why I suspect that's not a good deal. My guide was called Karno and had what I tend to consider a reassuringly basic grasp of English; in my experience there's a slight inverse relationship between quality of nature-finding and English speaking level.

When we set off after breakfast we were joined by two other guests. I thought we might be all going together but Karno was just leading them to a lodge up the road where they were to spend the day relaxing; a small relief as even though they were perfectly lovely I could tell they would have slowed us down.

We turned off the road into the forest in a place I would have never discerned was the path, and for the next couple of hours made our way stealthily through the trees, occasionally stopping for what Karno described as 'good-luck' cigarettes. Gratifyingly, I spotted the first leaf monkey's before he did, and we came across several troops that morning, including one that was resting close to the ground as it got hotter. We tested beside them and after a while some long-tailed macaques skirted round the edge of the area.

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With a few exceptions (Lion-tailed, Sulawesi, Toque) macaques are not a group I get very excited by. Langurs on the other hand I like very much and the more colourful the better. Thomas's must be one of the better ones in this regard. At the end of the day I asked Karno how the people of Ketambe are able to stop outsiders coming into the area and poaching, since the monkeys we saw were totally unafraid of people. He replied that actually they are not, but based on what I saw things are currently good.

We tested for lunch at a camp by the side of a stream. It's well established with polythene tents and lots of fireplaces, and here we met many other visitors and their guides. I think there were six couples and then me. Most people had also been unlucky with orangs in the morning but one group who arrived late had had good views. We tested for a good two hours, and I swam a little (well, submerged), and then just kept an eye out for birds but no dice.

In the afternoon we came across a mother and baby orang pretty quickly candidate at the same time remade our acquaintance with several parties from the camp. I suspect that the guides compare notes at lunch to make sure that guests all see at least one. I also found out from talking to one of the visitors that they were sleeping at the camp that evening. This is why I think the two day option likely doesn't significantly increase your chance of seeing orangs; you already have a very good shot the first day and in the second day you'll be in the same relatively small area. Final thoughts on this later.

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Seeing Sumatran orangs wasn't quite as magical as Borneans. It took me two trips to Sabah to see those, and when I did find them it was at the end of two days of searching in Danum by myself. However, it was still a special experience and I really like the set-up in Ketambe.

Later that afternoon we came across a young male who was sleeping wedged in a fork in two huge branches. They really are quite incredible animals. Ketambe is at about 1000m altitude and we must have gained several hundred metres in height at various points in the day. It gets hot in the sun but it's cold at night. A good reminder that the ecological niche for orangs is wider than I think we intuit and it's not hard to imagine a world where they are much more widespread.

Satisfied, we headed back to the village and I made my preparations to leave the next day. I talked with Karno about tigers, he said if someone committed to a ten day trek he was confident that they'd see them, as there are known waterholes that are far from the village. I'm not convinced by this, but it's intriguing and if such a trek also took in elephants (something Karno wasn't clear on) it would be a tempting option for a trip in its own right.

Getting from Ketambe to Siantar took three different buses. The first was just a roofed pick-up called a labi-labi to Kotacane. You just flag it down and the hour long journey costs twenty thousand. Alarmingly as more women got on it became clear that young men were expected to move to the outside and just cling on tight. Luckily we never got to the point where this was expected of me....

The second was a stuffy little minibus to Kabanjahe. The last was a much bigger benched affair, and the road to Siantar was absolutely abysmal, but we did enter Batak country and the architecture got a lot more interesting. As I mentioned above, I plan to do a day trip back this way before I move one. The journey should probably have taken 8 hours but ended up being eleven and I was extremely glad to finally arrive. I should point out though that the previous legs of Banda Aceh to Tekengon and Takengon to Ketambe, although shorter and with no connections, were infinitely worse due to the tiny winding mountain roads. Three people three up on the second day.....

*****

It's been two weeks since I arrived at Toba. No corona cases here yet although some places have started to close and the government sprayed the road last week. Also seeing more masks, but most people are still not social distancing. We will see what is to come. I imagine I'm going to be here for quite a while.
 
I'm going to create something called the Porch Wildlife Klaxon*. Whenever it sounds an animal I manage to photograph will be posted here.

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*Any resemblance to the Shoe Fauna Alert is entirely coincidental.
That’s a cool frog! Do you know what species it is?
 
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