Part VI: A Nerd in Gelderland Meets Two In The Bush
The following morning, we got up early and - after getting ready - made our way down to the hotel breakfast bar; again, we made sure we ate well given the fact we had a very busy day ahead of us. Afterward, we made the short journey around the corner to the train station and located the platform from which our train was scheduled to depart. It is worth noting at this point that at -5 °C it was noticeably colder in Amsterdam that morning - as had been forecast to be the case - and as such we were rather more heavily-clothed than we had been the previous day.
Whilst on the train to Arnhem, I sent a text to each of the Zoochatters whom we were due to meet at the zoo to confirm we were on our way and roughly when I estimated we would reach the zoo. The journey was both quick and quite comfortable; our first experience of the Dutch rail network beyond our brief journey leaving the airport. I was particularly pleased with the fact that screens within the train carriage displayed constantly-updated information regarding the progress of the journey and estimated times of arrival into each station en-route, something which the vast majority of UK trains lack. As soon as we arrived at Arnhem Centraal and disembarked from the train, we were struck by just how bitterly cold it was; we later learned that at the time we arrived it was -7 °C. Fortunately, we had planned to walk to the zoo, and within a few minutes of setting off we felt ourselves warming up a little. Our walk took us through a pair of large and pleasant parks, Sonsbeek and Zijpendaal; the latter was so thickly-forested, and on such steep terrain in parts, that it scarcely felt possible we were only a mile or so north of the city centre.
After a shade under an hour, we emerged from the woodland across the road from Burger's Zoo. I was somewhat amused to notice that my breath had frozen in my moustache and beard, and that my face was hence encrusted with tiny jewels of ice. On crossing the road and reaching the entrance plaza of the zoo, we sat by a group of rather attractive animal statues and awaited the arrival of our Dutch companions for the day,
@korhoen and
@Mr. Zootycoon - we had met the latter in June 2016 when visiting Weltvogelpark Walsrode, but it was the first time that we would meet the former. After a few minutes wait, both arrived and after brief introductions and small talk we entered the zoo.
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Burger's Zoo
Approximate time taken at collection: 500 minutes.
Zoochatters met: @korhoen and
@Mr. Zootycoon
Target species: African Darter, Screaming Piha, Ringed Seal, Ringtail, Congo Blue Duiker
Perhaps the most sensible way to review this zoo is to discuss each of the themed areas of the collection in turn - Bush, Ocean, Desert, Safari, Mangrove and Rimba - along with the pair of more general "Park" areas, before posting some final thoughts.
Bush
Over the course of our day at Burgers, we spent a significant amount of time in Bush over several visits; this allowed us to get a pretty good impression of the house as a whole and attempt to locate as many of the free-roaming species as possible. One of the first things we noticed was a hand-dryer positioned at the entrance to the house, for the specific purpose of warming camera and glasses lenses to prevent condensation misting them up when moving between the outdoors and the house itself. This was particularly handy on a day as cold as this one was, and is something we had observed at a few continental collections in the past - however, this one was designed in quite an amusing fashion!
Within moments of entering Bush itself, we heard the distinctive call of the
Screaming Piha (
Lipaugus vociferans), one of the most unique oddities held at the collection and as such a species I was eager to see. With the help of my companions, who are well-familiar with Bush and Burger's Zoo as a whole, I was able to find the individual calling fairly rapidly. Bush was exceptionally well-vegetated, with vast quantities of thick, mature vegetation making it easy at times to forget just how large the building was, with free-flying birds everywhere we looked. Of course, given how thick the vegetation was, viewing and identifying these birds properly was tricky and required a fair amount of patience. Other than the Piha, perhaps the most unusual bird present within Bush was the sole
African Darter (Anhinga rufa) in a European collection; given the fact that we were looking for a single bird, rather than having the choice of several loudly-calling individuals as was the case for the Piha, it took a few visits to the Bush to find the individual in question.
Thanks to my companions, I was also able to locate a small handful of the free-roaming
Guadeloupe Anole (Anolis marmoratus) present within the Bush. Overall I was extremely impressed with the Bush; it was much more "realistic" in feel when compared to the other major continental tropical house I have visited, Gondwanaland at Zoo Leipzig. The fact that the vegetation present was mature and had been allowed to grow, and that the house was filled with a large number of free-roaming animals which would reward patience and repeated visits - both factors which made Bush similar in some respects to the Tropical Realm at Chester Zoo - was definitely a plus, as was the fact that although very warm the heat within the house was not overwhelming as had been the case within Gondwanaland. We were also rather pleased with the price and quality of the food available within the restaurant in the Bush.
Ocean
I was quite pleased with the Ocean exhibit complex - accessed via Bush - and found myself looking forward to being able to directly compare it to the rival exhibit at Rotterdam, Oceanium; our two companions repeatedly noted that as the two foremost zoological collections in the Netherlands there is a high level of competition and disagreement on the subject of which is better. One aspect which I found particularly impressive was the presence of real coral within the reef exhibit; as noted by our companions the vast majority of such exhibits use artificial models to provide the desired effect, but the exhibit at Burgers uses a large range of living coral.
Another highlight within this area was the main tank, which contained a wide range of unusual species - most notably
Scalloped Hammerhead Shark (Sphyrna lewini). This was most certainly the largest such tank I had seen up to this point in time, and as such was extremely impressive.
Desert
As can probably be predicted, one of the main reasons why I was looking forward to viewing the Desert complex - again, accessed via Bush - was the presence of
Ringtail (
Bassariscus astutus) within the house; these were displayed in a pair of exhibits within a nocturnal corridor which also contained a variety of other North American oddities such as
Cactus Mouse (
Peromyscus eremicus) and
Rock Squirrel (
Otospermophilus variegatus). It took a few visits to this area before our patience was rewarded and we saw one of the ringtails, but the wait was most certainly worthwhile. The house as a whole was very attractively designed, and much like the Bush provided a good example of how geographic theming can be achieved in a subtle and unobtrusive fashion.
The path within the main body of Desert weaved between areas of arid-habitat vegetation and imitation rockwork, with enclosures for a variety of North American native species dotted throughout; these were, by and large, reasonably spacious for the needs of their inhabitants and fit with the overall surroundings very well. The overall effect was that one could look across the entirety of the house and feel it represented a single landscape. Unfortunately, due to bird flu restrictions several of the bird species which are usually present within Desert were off-display at the time of our visit; usually there are large numbers of birds free-flying within the house, but we only glimpsed a fraction of these, something which our companions noted was quite unusual. Among the highlight species within this area were
Bobcat (Lynx rufus) - a species which I had a better view of here than at any prior collection, and which I am quite fond of - and
California Bighorn Sheep (
Ovis canadensis californiana); the latter species breeds extremely regularly at Burgers, and as such all individuals in Europe can trace their descent back to the group held within Desert.
Safari
Due to the extremely cold conditions, the main mixed exhibit within Safari was closed, with the species usually present held in their indoor housing. Some of this was off-display, frustratingly including the indoor area for
Beisa Oryx (
Oryx beisa beisa); although this was not a lifetick species, my views of Beisa at Prague in 2017 had been very poor. However, the major lifetick within this area - the
White-bearded Wildebeest (
Connochaetes taurinus albojubatus) - was visible within the indoor stable areas, much to my gratification.
As such, my judgements of this area are rather limited - although from the views we were able to obtain overlooking the mixed paddock it struck me as providing plenty of space for the inhabitants; certainly this is one of the areas of Burgers which I am most anxious to view again in future.
Of the satellite exhibits within Safari, perhaps my favourite was the large and spacious - if simple in design - exhibit for
South African Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus jubatus), which in many respects reminded us of the similar exhibit at Wild Place. I got the impression from my companions that their opinion of this exhibit was slightly less charitable, however, precisely due to the simplicity of the exhibit. For all intents and purposes, the exhibit represented nothing more than a large portion of woodland and open field which had been fenced off; it is possible, of course, that my reaction to this exhibit is somewhat influenced by the fact that I have a soft spot for exhibits which incorporate the surrounding natural vegetation in this fashion - especially when this entails attractive mixed woodland which, even on a bitterly cold day such as this one, was teeming with wild birds.
Mangrove
The newest development at Burgers, the Mangrove is perhaps the area which would most reward a return visit in a handful of years; this will give the vegetation planted within time to grow somewhat and improve the overall "feel" of the house. Nonetheless, even at the present time Mangrove is extremely well-designed and attractive. It can roughly be divided into three "portions" - a large and deep main pool surrounded by lush vegetation and housing West Indian Manatee (Trichechus manatus manatus), an open area of shallow water and mudflats dotted with a variety of live mangroves and containing a number of species of Fiddler Crab (Uca sp.) along with Atlantic Horseshoe Crab (Limulus polyphemus), and an area of dry tropical forest which provides habitat for the butterflies and free-flying birds present within the house.
The main pool was, I feel confident in stating, the best I had seen for manatee anywhere in Europe - even surpassing the exhibit at Nuremberg, which although it had plenty of depth was much less attractive and seemed a little sterile in comparison to this one. It was certainly far superior to the pool in Bush which, I was informed, had contained the species prior to the construction of Mangrove. The overall effect was enhanced by the bright, airy feel granted by the vast amount of natural light pouring into the house through the transparent domed roof, which is clad with air cushions in order to improve the insulation of heat and humidity within. The footpath within the house weaved around the main pool and the mudflats, at one point taking us directly over the water via a bridge and allowing us to look directly down on the manatees.
However, the best aspect of Mangrove had to be the titular mangroves and mudflats; I can't quite put my finger on the reason why, but the fact there were hundreds of tiny crabs feeding in the muddy silt and skittering around the roots of the mangroves really appealed to me. I had, of course, seen both horseshoe and fiddler crabs in various collections before, but never in such a naturalistic environment. As I have noted previously, I am not a fan of geographic theming for the sake of geographic theming, feeling as I do that most collections either overdo it, cause the effect to come across artificial or focus on tacky ethnographic decoration rather than the environmental "feel" of the exhibit. However, by this point it was very much apparent that Burgers does it very well indeed.
After passing a large viewing window into the main pool, the path through Mangrove passes through the dry forest area of the house; this is the area which perhaps will most benefit from a few more years, as this will give the vegetation more time to grow and settle-in, and allow the population of butterflies and other free-roaming species to increase somewhat.
Rimba
Of the various themed areas within Burgers, I felt that Rimba - based around the concept of a Malaysian forest habitat, and containing species too large for display within Bush - was perhaps my least favourite - although it was nonetheless very good; this statement should only be taken as a reflection of just how much I enjoyed the collection as a whole. However, there are a few particularly notable exhibits which are worthy of particular mention.
The centrepoint of Rimba is a large and well-vegetated mixed exhibit for a wide range of south-east Asian species, designed to look something akin to an open clearing in woodland next to a riverbank. The species displayed within were as follows:
Myanmar Thamin (
Rucervus eldii thamin)
Hog Deer (
Axis porcinus porcinus)
Javan Banteng (
Bos javanicus javanicus)
Reeve's Muntjac (
Muntiacus reevesi)
Sunda Pig-tailed Macaque (
Macaca nemestrina)
Siamang (
Symphalangus syndactylus)
I was particularly taken with this exhibit, as the mixture of species was rather appealing and - possibly due to the wide amount of space available to the inhabitants - they seemed to interact well together with the minimum of friction.
Another particularly good exhibit, in my opinion, was the large and well-vegetated exhibit for
Sumatran Tiger (
Panthera tigris sumatrae); although relatively commonplace in zoological collections I always seem to enjoy seeing this taxon more than I do Amur Tiger, and as such a well-designed exhibit which provides the inhabitants plenty of space in which to move and scope to hide from the view of the public if need be is always appreciated by myself.
However, probably the best exhibit within Rimba other than the main paddock was the very large and spacious exhibit for
Malayan Sun Bear (Helarctos malayanus malayanus); this was perhaps the largest enclosure for this species which I had seen at any zoological collection up to this point in time, providing a large amount of opportunity for the inhabitants to climb around on various logs, boulders and climbing frames. The fact that the mature woodland naturally present within the area had been incorporated into the exhibit further enhanced the effect, although as with many of the outdoor areas of Burgers the fact that I was viewing the enclosure in winter certainly meant that it was nowhere near as lush and attractive as it would be in the warmer months!
Park
The remaining unthemed areas of Burgers - located in two disjunct segments at the entrance to the zoo and at the far end beyond Rimba - fall under the catch-all name of "Park". It was clear that a fair portion of the Park area at the entrance of the zoo was being cleared out, with several exhibits which our companions informed us had been vacated within the last few months. The odds are good that this area will form the hub of the next themed area of Burgers Zoo, whatever it turns out to be. Furthermore, the bitter cold meant that some species - unfortunately including the
Congo Blue Duiker (
Philantomba monticola congica), a taxon which I had missed at Colchester and as such hoped to view for the first time here - remained indoors and invisible. However, a number of attractive species were nonetheless still visible in this area - including a large and very active group of
European Golden Jackal (
Canis aureus moreotica), a taxon which is perhaps one of my favourite canid species and which I feel deserves to be represented in more collections. Of course, the main attraction within this area is the mid-size pool for a mixed pair of
Arctic Ringed Seal (
Pusa hispida hispida) and
Baltic Ringed Seal (Pusa hispida botnica), along with their hybrid offspring.
The pool was reasonably large considering the size of the inhabitants, and interestingly provided multiple levels on which to swim due to the presence of a slipway dividing the pool into two segments. Given the fact I knew there were two distinct taxa to identify, along with a youngster of no particular subspecies, we spent a little time at this exhibit trying to work out which individuals were which and ensuring I had decent photographs of all three.
The section of Park at the far end of the zoo was much less noteworthy, truth be told - not bad by any stretch of the imagination, but certainly the least appealing part of the collection as a whole. The bird house located in this section has, we were informed by our companions, seen better days and contained little of note. Perhaps the two most noteworthy aspects of this area were a large aviary for
Red Kite (
Milvus milvus) and
European Black Vulture (
Aegypius monachus), and the fact that it is here that the great ape collection at Burgers is located. This comprises a large mixed group of non-subspecific
Chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes) and
Western Chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes verus), and a group of
Western Lowland Gorilla (Gorilla gorilla gorilla).
The two main exhibits within the indoor housing for the great apes were very much similar in basic design, comprising a large open area with a climbing frame containing logs, ropes, metal bars and wooden platforms located in the centre, and struck me as fairly well-suited to the purposes of their inhabitants. However, I did notice that there seemed to be no way for the inhabitants of either exhibit to escape the view of the public.
Overall, then, I was extremely impressed with Burgers Zoo and can certainly understand why it is regarded by many as the best collection in the Netherlands. Not to get ahead of myself too much, given the fact I am yet to discuss the other Dutch collections I visited over the course of this week, but this is a stance which I myself now ascribe to - with the caveat, of course, that there are plenty of Dutch collections which I have yet to visit! I was particularly pleased, as one may be able to tell, with the fact that this collection has successfully united the two "sides" of a debate which seems to divide many zoo enthusiasts at present; to wit, whether geographical theming or species diversity are the most important aspects of a modern zoo. Burgers successfully achieves both without seeming false and artificial in the theming, nor compromising exhibit standards in order to accommodate more species. As I have already noted, I strongly want to return to the collection in a few years once the Mangrove has developed a little, and the next big development has taken place - but perhaps in summer, so that I can judge the exterior areas of the collection when they look their best!
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After leaving the zoo just before closing time, we said our goodbyes to
@korhoen and made final arrangements with
@Mr. Zootycoon for our planned meeting at BestZoo the following morning, before once again making our way through the woodland to the south towards the city centre and thence the main train station. Our journey back to Amsterdam was uneventful and comfortable, but as we bought a few odds and ends to eat from a supermarket in Amsterdam Centraal I was surprised to receive a phonecall from Mr. Zootycoon - it turned out that when he had returned home and checked the opening times for BestZoo online, he had discovered that the collection was only open on weekends for the next few months. As such, we would have to reshuffle our plans.
Ultimately, the decision was made to visit BestZoo - and thus Zie-Zoo - on the following Sunday instead; this unfortunately meant that although we would be able to visit Artis in the morning, rather than Sunday as planned, we
would have to scrap Artisklas from our plans altogether as this collection is only open to the public on weekends. A bit of a loss, as I always like to see little out-of-the-way collections and the prospect of finally seeing American Mink would have been nice, but worthwhile in order to still visit BestZoo and Zie-Zoo.
(Coming up: The Artis Of Being A Zoonerd)