Zoo Sauvage de Saint Felicien
I first read about Zoo Sauvage de Saint Felicien in the 1994 edition of
The Zoo Book: A Guide to America’s Best (by Allen Nyhuis). That book, unlike the latter 2008 edition, had a chapter dedicated to the best foreign zoos, and Canada had 4 facilities briefly described: Calgary, Toronto, Granby, and Saint Felicien. The Saint Felicien Zoo was described in the book as “one of the largest, best, and most natural zoos in Canada”, and after visiting it I can concur that it is one of the most natural zoos that I’ve ever been to (and my current list is at exactly 130 zoos and aquariums, most of them in the US and Israel).
The zoo appears to be little known. When I started planning our Canadian road trip, I was surprised that there are no photos from the zoo at all in the ZooChat gallery. Even google queries for “top 10 zoos in Canada” don’t bring back any results. For example the
Top 10 Zoos in Canada website lists obscure little places such as Magnetic Hill Zoo and Cherry Brook Zoo in New Brunswick, but fails to mention Saint Felicien (this is NOT an intent to bad-mouth the 2 New Brunswick’s facilities which I’ve never visited, but simply highlight of how little-known Saint Felicien is). This is probably due to remote location – the zoo is situated in the middle of the Province of Quebec, in the town of Saint Felicien on the shore of Lake Saint Jean, and is far away from Quebec’s major cities (3 hours’ drive from Quebec City and 5 hours’ drive from Montreal). Also, Quebec is a French-speaking province, so most of the information about this zoo is available in French. Fortunately for me, their website is bi-lingual, and includes the historical overview which I will summarize next.
The zoo opened in 1960. At the time it was a regular zoo with lions, elephants, giraffes, and such. In 1970s new land was purchased and the
Nature Park Trails section was opened in two phases. The section was dedicated to free-ranging Canadian wildlife which the guests could only view while riding the screened-in train. In the 1990s the zoo phased out all non-native species and decided to focus exclusively on the Canadian fauna (the Native Park Trails section already was focusing on the indigenous species, and the rest of the zoo followed suite). However, in early 2000s the collection plan was altered again to include cold-hardly species from other regions of the world with climate similar to that of Canada, and the zoo now has some species from north and central Asia, and African highlands.
The scenery in the zoo is gorgeous. The place is well forested, and there is a fast river (complete with rapids and small waterfalls) that flows right through the zoo, with about one third of the zoo (not including
Nature Park Trails the train ride section) built on an island (called Ile Bernard) in the middle of that river, and connected to the rest of the zoo by three or four bridges. I am not sure how the place would look in the middle of Canadian winter, but in August everything is very scenic. The zoo (except for the
Nature Park Trails train ride which I will come to later) is also a photographer’s dream. There are no cages, and all exhibits are very natural and open. Usually such natural exhibits mean that the animals could be tough to find, since there is an abundance of hiding places. However, at Saint Felicien regular feeding and enrichment sessions are scheduled pretty much for all carnivore and primate species several times a day, so even the animals that would normally stay hidden come out several times a day and can be easily observed and photographed.
As explained above, the zoo has a pedestrian section and a train-ride
Nature Park Trails section. According to the website, the length of the train tracks is over 7 kilometers (over 4 miles) and the ride takes over an hour (which I now can confirm from experience). I’ll start with the train ride, even though we actually rode the train in the middle of the day. In hindsight this was probably a mistake, because in the middle of the day animals tend to stay hidden in the forests, and during an hour-long ride we saw surprisingly little. However, I wanted to photograph carnivore species in the pedestrian section in the morning knowing that they will be more active, therefore we could only do the ride in the early afternoon. If I could visit the zoo on a second day, I would do the ride first. In any case, the ride is also very scenic and enjoyable, and passes through large sections of evergreen and deciduous forest, open prairies (complete with real prairie-dog town!), and many lakes, as well as replicas of the colonist farm, lumberjack camp, Native American village, etc. The list of species that can be encountered is impressive:
black bears, moose, caribou, wapiti, wood bison, musk ox, bighorn sheep, prairie-dogs; and the train also rides past the enclosure for
timber wolves (which can only be seen from the train). However, as typical with such attractions, the ride is a disappointment when one is trying to observe and photograph animals. Wolves were lying in the bushes and we’ve only saw a glimpse. From the train we did see a few white-tailed deer, a single caribou, a couple of black bears (which actually were so close to the train that taking a picture was impossible), three moose (who were facing the wrong way, so I also did not take a picture), a herd of bison in the distance, and a couple of prairie-dogs popping out of their burrows. Did not see any musk ox, bighorn sheep, or wapiti. Again, I think the timing of our ride was the main culprit, because I did see several YouTube videos taken on the same ride with people passing herds of caribous, musk ox, etc. But, as with any zoo train ride I’ve taken in the past, what one can see is pretty much determined by luck, and that’s why I always prefer to walk around zoos (or at least drive my own vehicle).
I absolutely loved the pedestrian part of the zoo. There are 6 geographic sections (each having one or more animal exhibits), as well as a small nursery building housing animal orphans, and a petting farm (which we didn’t go to). Two out of six geographic sections and the kids farm are all located on the previously mentioned island.
African Mountains section has a rocky exhibit for the bachelor troop of
geladas, which is the recent addition (all came from zoos in France and Germany in 2018) and is the only African species currently at the zoo (and very nice species too, considering that only two other zoos in North America house this taxon). This is the 2nd gelada exhibit that I’ve seen so far (the first being the one in Bronx, I haven’t seen the one in San Diego yet as my visits there pre-dated its opening) – it’s not as large as the one in New York and is most rocks with little or no grass, however it’s fairly spacious for the small troop (6 males), and the viewing is superb (and the animals can be viewed from multiple levels and very were visible and active).
Most of the island is taken by the
Mixed Forest section, which has 3 open exhibits for medium-sized native mammals and birds, and well as a walk-in aviary for bald eagles, and a small indoor exhibit. This was the first section we went to when we got to the zoo right after it opened. All exhibits are very lush (at least in August) and well furnished, and are viewed from the raised boardwalk. The first one is of a medium size and during my visit housed a single and very active
wolverine (though the zoo is supposed to have 2.2 according to ZIMS). I’ve seen wolverines before (in Columbus, Detroit, and Minnesota zoos), but at St Felicien I’ve had my best viewing so far. The next exhibit is much larger and that’s where I had my biggest surprise for the day. On the map this exhibit was marked as an otter exhibit, and I saw three
river otters swimming in a pond. Then a
raccoon came out, then I saw a
red fox in the same exhibit, and to my biggest surprise I also saw two
fishers sharing the same space. All together I saw three otters, 4-5 raccoons, a red fox, and two fishers – 4 species of medium-sized carnivores living together in the same exhibit. I’ve read and known about mixed carnivore exhibits, but never heard of an exhibit with
4 species of carnivores living together. In the morning all animals were very active, and we saw lots of interactions, with the fox chasing fishers, and otters harassing raccoons. On the other side of the boardwalk is a second natural exhibit of similar size of larger than the one for otters, etc., with an even bigger pond. That one houses
beavers,
sandhill cranes, and several North American duck species (we did not see beavers), and has two smaller moated partitions on the other side which house
North American porcupines and
woodchucks, respectively. The map also mentioned
snowshoe hares that are supposed to live in this area – we did not see any, but the beaver exhibit were so spacious and had so much land area with lots of hiding places that they very well could have been there. There is a small pavilion attached to the beavers’ exhibit from where the visitors could view into the beaver den (where we did see two sleeping beavers). The same pavilion had some free-flying birds (I did not take notes but saw some
magpies and
crows) and two terrariums with
rat-snakes and
pine-snakes. And, finally and as already mentioned, the same section has a lush walk-in aviary with a couple of
bald eagles.
As I mentioned earlier, the river flows right through zoo and dissects it into 3 areas (south bank, the island in the middle of the river, and north bank). The area south of the river is the smallest one and only contains a single section, called
Arctic Tundra. This consists of two adjoining exhibits for
polar bears which are located at the top of the hill, with viewing boardwalk all around them. Both exhibits are specious and have natural substrate (dirt and grass), and at least one of them has a deep pool with underwater viewing (none of the bears were swimming when I saw the exhibit, so I didn’t pay much attention to the pool). The exhibits are fairly new (opened in 1997 according to zoo’s website) and, while not in the same league as Detroit’s polar bear exhibit, I liked them more than the more recently-opened polar bear exhibits at St Louis or Toronto. There are no rockwork walls and the exhibits appear very open, and so with the exhibits located at the top of the hills, the bears must have a great view of the surrounding areas. Two polar bear cubs were born in late 2018. The map also indicates that
Arctic foxes live in the same section – I did not find a separate exhibit for them, and wouldn’t be surprised if they share the space with the bears.
The remaining three sections (as well as the Nature Park Trails train ride) are all located north of the river. The
Mongolia section has opened in 2010 (according to Wikipedia). It has some cultural elements (such as a large yurt), a spacious field for
Bactrian camels and
Przewalski’s horses (and also some waterfowl –
Bewick’s swan and
bar-headed and
swan geese), a paddock for domestic yaks, and a spacious mountain exhibit for
Siberian ibex and
demoiselle cranes. There is a small viewing gazebo right on top of the ibex mountain with flights of stairs going up there right through the ibex exhibit – the stairs and the gazebo are separated by fairly low fence, which I’m sure ibex could easily jump over. I thought this was a very nice touch that brings visitors very close to the animals (which many US zoos consider as not exciting enough for the public). Overall the whole area is very nicely done and is focusing on a region which very few institutions highlight (I don’t remember seeing any areas dedicated specifically to Mongolia in any other zoo I’ve been to).
Then there is the
Asia section, with just four exhibits, which are all viewed from raised boardwalk. Like all other exhibits at this zoo, they are open and very well forested. The species housed are
red pandas,
Manchurian cranes,
Japanese macaques, and
Amur tigers.
The last section is called
Mountains (North America). It is basically organized as a loop where, again, all exhibits are viewed from the boardwalk. Inside the loop is a large grassy and hilly paddock for a small herd of
Rocky Mountain goats (and some
trumpeter swans). Along the outer edges of loop are the open exhibits for
coyotes,
Canadian lynx,
grizzly bears, and
pumas. Pumas and lynx have plenty of hiding places in their spacious and forested exhibits and are extremely hard to see – fortunately they all come out during the regular feeding sessions. I was surprised to see that the lynx exhibit houses a total of 5 individuals (3.2, per ZIMS) and that the puma exhibit houses 6 animals (3.3). I’ve never seen so many lynx or pumas sharing the same space.
Lastly, there is a small Nursery building right between petting farm and Mongolia. Apparently, it houses orphan animals and others that are hand-reared for whatever reason. On one side of the house are the pens for hoofstock youngsters (during our visit they housed a muskox calf, a whitetail deer fawn, and two wapiti fawns) and on the other side are the cages for smaller animals (I remember a young red fox, two woodchucks, some very tiny striped skunks, a few snowshoe leverets, and a grey squirrel or two).
In the end, I was very impressed by the Saint Felicien Zoo. The grounds are beautiful and very well maintained, while exhibits are natural and perfect for photography. The zoo’s specialization in boreal animals is quite unique, and the collection is strong with some species present in few or no other North American zoos (for example, according to ZIMS no other zoo in North America holds Siberian ibex, while geladas are kept in only 2 other zoos). Finally, I really appreciated the frequent enrichment and feeding schedule that ensures that many otherwise secretive and hard to find animals are easy to see and photograph. Many other zoos, of course, give feeding demonstrations for various throughout the day. However, in my experience, these are often scheduled at random, with different presentations taking place at the same time in different parts of the zoo. At Saint Felicien, it is possible to see most of the animals being fed or enriched by simply following the keepers along the exhibits path, because all feeding sessions are scheduled in the order the animals are encountered along the path. And, if the visitor misses a part of this feeding round, there will be another round scheduled later in the day. So overall I had a great time, took lots of photos, and left the zoo pretty amazed in the fact that such a gem remains so little known even among zoo nerds. Hopefully my lengthy review will help to remedy this, and I also intend to post some of my photos in the gallery in the next few days. This zoo is definitely worth going to if one happens to be in east Canada, even though it's quite far from major cities.