Day Eighteen (Part One)
This was super exciting. I had a bit of trouble sleeping, I was that excited. We got out of the house after a quick snack, and hustled down to a downtown bus stop, where we waited impatiently. We were the first people on the #7 Bus, which costs $2.25 for a one way trip, although we seemed to know more about this fact than the driver! After a fairly short trip, at 9am exactly, we arrived at our stop – just outside the San Diego Zoo!
There is no point in writing too much about the “world famous” San Diego Zoo, although obviously I will, as it is extremely well known. It lies on 100 acres of surprisingly steep terrain in the city’s Balboa Park, and opened in 1916. Possibly one of the most interesting features from its early history was its first long-term director, Belle Benchley, who ran the zoo from 1925 to 1953 and was one of the world’s only female zoo directors during that time. During this time, the zoo created many “cage-less” enclosures, with moats most commonly used. Today, the zoo is extremely well-regarded, and often referred to as the best zoo in the world – a reputation I was keen to see if it lived up to!
The entrance was a slight distance from the bus stop, we had to walk past all the carparks to get there, and this was just the start of all the walking! The entrance featured of course its famous elephant topiaries, and no queue, so we stepped up and handed over slightly more than $300. This was for two 3-park passes, which would also admit us to the Safari Park and Sea World. Certainly the most I’ve ever spent at an entry booth! The entry area seems rather dated, and could probably do with a decent renovation. Inside the zoo, we collected a handful of A3 zoo maps (if you want to follwo along - the map is available here:
Map | San Diego Zoo) and purchased a coffee and cinnamon bun each at the Jungle Java kiosk, and then sat down in the shade to do some planning (and apply liberal amounts of sunblock). Here we saw our first species – a wild squirrel!
We spent the first few hours exploring what would be my favourite section of the zoo, which features a number of rainforest-themed areas and a heap of exciting exhibits holding many exciting species. First up along the Monkey Trail was a waterfowl pond, with a dozen species from South America, two of them new, including the stunning Ashy-headed Goose. The trail lead through a leafy forest, and then past a number of excellent aviary-style exhibits for seven primate species, viewed from an elevated boardwalk. The first aviary was next, with various African bird species (including my first new family of the day, with Egyptian Plover).
The next aviary however, was just stunning, the walkthrough Scripps Aviary, which dates from 1923, with an impressive diversity of African birds, and could easily soak up a couple of hours of a ZooChatter’s time. As it was I didn’t spend that long here, and missed a number of the smaller species, although even the larger ones were hard to spot in the vast area. Past this were further aviaries for larger African birds, and then an excellent Bonobo enclosure, which held an active and very watchable troop. Beyond this was another small aviary for savannah birds (including the Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, which represented a new order of birds for me!), and a stunning tree-top viewed aviary for Crowned Eagles. The path then doubled back, and we went through the bottom portion of the Scripps Aviary, where I picked up another couple of species, although there was less to see from down here.
The next section, Tiger Trail, mostly featured Asian species, with the first aviary throwing up a few of the usual suspects, as well as a wild Yellow Warbler flitting around the bamboo nearby. Next up was a large enclosure for Malayan Tigers, which weren’t visible (although the back fence stood out and rather ruined the exhibit). Nearby was the poorest exhibit so far, with Pygmy Marmosets in a dark box. However, things soon improved again, with a series of superb aviaries with several new species, and another new family courtesy of the brilliant Lesser Green Broadbill. There was also an exhibit for Gharial and various turtles, a cage for Fishing Cat, and yards for Malayan Tapir, Barbirusa and Yellow-backed Duiker. Overall, this section was mixed, with mature plantings and beautiful aviaries, but rather underwhelming mammal exhibits.
The next part of our visit took us down the Fern Canyon Trail, which, like the other sections of the zoo we had seen, was quiet and peaceful, with very few visitors around. We had already been at the zoo for an hour and a half, and seen only a tiny area of the map! Next up was another massive walkthrough aviary – Owens Aviary, which housed an impressive array of Asian birds among beautiful trees, and was superior to the Scripps, although I only saw three new species. Signage throughout the Zoo had been excellent so far, although generally fairly minimal, but fell down slightly here, with a few species missing. Outside was a series of small aviaries for Australasian birds, although much of this was closed off sadly, with just a few accessible, luckily including a couple of new Bird-of-Paradise species (Raggiana and Superb).
Nearby was the Parker Aviary, the “third” big walkthrough aviary of the zoo, this focuses on South American species. While much smaller than Owens and Scripps, this was also a beautiful exhibit, and had a minimal focus on parrots, with passerines like Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks and Capuchinbirds among the highlights (and new species). While a smaller aviary, it still featured a number of large trees and was a stunning experience. Near the exit to this aviary was the Orang-Utan trail, which led past the mixed Siamang and Bornean & Sumatran Orang exhibit. This was viewed from ground level, with climbing structures, located near the back. This was not particularly innovative or impressive for these primates, a tree-top viewing experience would have improved things greatly, although it wasn’t inadequate. Adjacent was an exhibit that was awaiting Silvered Leaf Monkeys, which I was disappointed to miss.
We finished off the rainforest part of the zoo by exploring the Hippo Trail, with featured African fauna. I hope you are following this review by utilising the map, as the layout is extremely complex, with no “one-route” possible – there were a number of complicated intersections, but we managed to minimise the number of trails we had to double back on. This trail took us past a pair of glass-fronted exhibits, with underwater and land viewing behind. The first housed Pygmy Hippos and Wolf’s Guenons in rather barren surrounds, while the second had Slender-snouted Crocodile in lush environs. The adjacent small reptile house held some very nice species, but some of the terrariums were too small for their inhabitants and the signage was a bit hit and miss.
The Gorilla exhibit was next, adjacent to the Bonobos and sharing a similar design of high rock walls, although with more mature trees – although not enough to provide the full canopy. Viewing was excellent, and we watched keepers feeding the gorillas from a rooftop platform above some large windows, the people there had a perfect view. Gorilla exhibits of the naturalistic style fall into two camps, the islands and the rock walls, and San Diego tried to do both (as do others, e.g. Melbourne), with rock walls surrounding a dry-moated island. If they had constructed the walls such that they could not be climbed, and removed the moat, the exhibit space would have been larger, with more shading possible from vegetation above the rock walls. With a decent canopy, this exhibit would be world-class.
After passing some previously viewed exhibits, we reached the lower portion of the zoo, where the path wound past a nicely wooded paddock for Okapi and Black Duiker, and down to the Common Hippo pool. This was of an impressive size, with very nice underwater viewing – I think the first time I have seen this in an outdoor hippo enclosure. As usual, there was no grazing area, and the exhibit had a slightly dilapidated air about it, not the best air for a hippo exhibit! A small plaza was next, with a final African aviary, and then a large mammal exhibit rounded out this part of the zoo. The first part of this was a rather barren paddock for Congo Buffalo and Red River Hog, with a large pool for Spot-necked Otters. Opposite was an island for monkeys, which the otters also had access to. While the species here were great, and the mix exciting, the exhibit was not well designed to show the interconnected nature of these animals or their habitat.
This part of the zoo had taken just over three hours to tour, and we had been rushing around in the heat, so took a breather in the plaza, and purchased a souvenir sipper cup, which we were able to refill at cafes throughout the zoo. Sadly they had run out of Panda themed cups, so we were left with the Koala cups, hardly the species we were going to remember San Diego for! This is a good place to end this first post, I’ll post the new species list at the end of the review, but so far we’d seen some 140 species, of which 45 were new, comprising one new order and two new families. And there was still two-thirds of the zoo to explore!