Just shy of a week ago, I returned from a 5-day trek out to the plains, deserts, and mountains of Wyoming and Idaho, where I was accompanied by
@Ituri and
@Giant Eland on what we've deemed the Great Squirrel Safari.
The objective was simple but ambitious: find as many of the native ground squirrel species as we could. Other primary objectives were lagomorph-related (namely the Pygmy Rabbit and American Pika) and of course birding the sagebrush prairies and mountains as best we could.
Unfortunately, as good as the unseasonal record snowfall the region has recently been hit with is for replenishing some of the water reserves, it also made for some challenging wildlife watching conditions. Areas that should be in full spring this time of year are still buried in several feet of snowpack, and birds that should either be wintering in the lowlands or arriving in the mountains are instead scattered and nowhere to be found at their normal seasonal grounds. This made for a... frustrating experience at times, however we made the best of it and ultimately did pretty well all things considered.
My journey started on Thursday, April 13, when I flew into Wichita, Kansas, to meet with
@Ituri. At 2am that night, we hit the road and began the ~14-hour drive to Kemmerer, Wyoming. About halfway between the two is Denver, Colorado, where we stopped to pick-up
@Giant Eland. The area around the airport is supposedly very good for both Black-Tailed Prairie Dog and Burrowing Owl, though rainy weather the day we passed through resulted in no success with those two species. The following species were spotted while driving along the highway:
159) Great-Tailed Grackle
Quiscalus mexicanus
160) Eurasian Collared-Dove
Streptopelia decaocto
161) Black-Billed Magpie
Pica hudsonia
12) Pronghorn
Antilocapra americana
13) Mule Deer
Odocoileus hemonius
Once in Wyoming, there's a little rest stop just outside of Rock Springs where one can stop and have a near-guaranteed chance of seeing very habituated prairie dogs and chipmunks. We were pleased to find the animal activity here wasn't impacted much by the presence of snow. As we headed further into the mountains, however, we entered a winter wonderland (or wasteland as it felt at times). Heading through one mountain pass, we were greeted by herds of Elk and eagles perched on rocky outcrops. In the late afternoon, we arrived in Kemmerer, our final destination for day 1. When checking into our hotel, we learned that a Moose had been hanging around town. We did drive around the snow laden town for a while searching for him, but never managed to spot the animal.
After our check-in and a brief Moose hunt, we made our way to Fossil Butte National Monument. Typically, this time of year the visitor center is surrounded by miles of pristine sagebrush prairie and should be teaming with newly arrived birds and hungry ground squirrels. This location is also historically a good place to find Pygmy Rabbit around dusk. Despite the snow in the mountains, we were expecting Fossil Butte to be relatively clear. What we found instead were miles of thick, hard snowpack almost completely covering the sage. According to a local, this is the first time in over 20 years that Fossil Butte has been buried in snow in mid-April. Needless to say, we did not find any Pygmy Rabbits or ground squirrels, though we did spot a few more prairie dogs and chipmunks, some larger rabbits, and some likely pretty confused early spring bird arrivals.
162) Golden Eagle
Aquila chrysaetos
163) Spotted Towhee Pipilo maculatus
164) Say's Phoebe Sayornis saya
165) Brewer's Blackbird
Euphagus cyanocephalus
14) White-Tailed Prairie Dog Cynomys leucurus
15) Least Chipmunk Neotamias minimus
16) Elk
Cervus canadensis
17) White-Tailed Jackrabbit Lepus townsendii
18) Desert Cottontail
Sylvilagus audubonii
The following morning, we made additional attempts at the Moose and Fossil Butte, but only to the same result. From speaking with a ranger at Fossil Butte, the rabbits aren’t nearly as prevalent in the park as they used to be and the ranger himself hasn’t actually seen one in a few years. That said, in the fresh snowfall that fell overnight, we did find some small lagomorph-looking footprints adjacent to the visitor center, so they may still be around just shier than in the past. A little disheartened, we left Wyoming on our way to Craters of the Moon in Idaho. Along the way, we had two very lucky roadside encounters near Soda Springs, Idaho, with some wandering grouse and an entirely unplanned ground squirrel species!
166) Western Meadowlark
Sturnella neglecta
167) Sharp-Tailed Grouse Tympanuchus phasianellus
19) Uinta Ground Squirrel
Urocitellus armatus
At Craters, what is normally miles of lava beds scattered with vegetation, typically home to Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel, pika, and nutcracker, is currently a bed of thick snowpack with a handful of rocks poking above the surface, home to the occasional marmot. As we expected on our arrival, the area of the park where pika and ground squirrels are most typically found was not even accessible with the specific road leading to it completely blocked with snow. Bird-wise, we were met with a pretty silent scene as well. All we found were juncos and a single chickadee heard but not seen. In general, there wasn't much to be found here. At the least, we did spot the endemic chipmunk taxa around the visitor's center. As with the pikas that live here, there is some debate as to whether the geographically isolated population of chipmunks here may actually represent a distinct, if not similar species adapted to an entirely different habitat from the Yellow-Pine found in western Idaho.
20) Yellow-Bellied Marmot
Marmota flaviventris
21) Fox Squirrel
(Parasciurus) Sciurus niger
22) Yellow-Pine Chipmunk Neotamias (amoenus) cratericus
After our pretty brief visit to Craters, we decided to make our way to the Silver Creek Preserve in Bellevue, Idaho. Here we found a virtually snowless landscape of restored sagebrush habitat neighbored by some flooded farm fields. The absence of white was a breath of fresh air for us, and the site proved to be one of our most productive of the trip. The flooded fields hosted cranes, curlew, waterfowl, pheasant, and flocks of song birds. The roadside bordering the fields also proved to be a great spot to look for voles. Heading to the visitor center, we encountered many ground squirrels living along the side of the road at the edge of the sagebrush. As we explored the trails, we encountered a tiny cottontail which briefly gave
@Giant Eland and I a glimmer of hope we’d found our rabbit after all.
@Ituri assured us, however, that this animal was nothing more than a young Mountain Cottontail. On our way out, I even encountered my one new herp for the trip.
168) Swanson's Hawk
Buteo swainsoni
169) Rough-Legged Hawk
Buteo lagopus
170) Northern Pintail
Anas acuta
171) Long-Billed Curlew Numenius americanus
172) Marsh Wren Cistothorus palustris
173) Ring-Necked Pheasant
Phasianus colchicus
174) Cinnamon Teal
Spatula cyanoptera
175) American Goldfinch
Spinus tristis
23) Montane Vole Microtus montanus
24) Columbian Ground Squirrel Urocitellus columbianus
25) Mountain Cottontail Sylvilagus nuttallii
6) Common Garter Snake
Thamnophis sirtalis
That evening we arrived in Boise, Idaho, where we would be based from for the remainder of the trip. That night we decided to take a drive through the Morley Nelson Snake River Birds of Prey National Conservation Area (full name!) to spotlight for nocturnal mammals. We had pretty good success, finding a couple of native rodents and two badgers. Satisfied and with midnight approaching, we decided to get some sleep as day 2 came to a close.
26) American Badger
Taxidea taxus
27) Ord's Kangaroo-Rat
Dipodomys ordii
28) Western Deer Mouse Peromyscus sonoriensis
29) Black-Tailed Jackrabbit
Lepus californicus
Day 3 started bright and early with a return to Snake River, specifically to Dedication Point for ground squirrels and birding. For those unaware, Dedication Point is supposed to be one of the nation’s best for raptor spotting. Strangely, few birds—namely the raptors—were visible and the ground squirrels were nowhere to be found. We did strike some luck and found an additional deer mouse out in the early morning which allowed for some good photo opportunities. With not much else around, we made our way to the floor of the canyon to bird around the Snake River itself. This spot is also good habitat for antelope squirrel and weasel, however we found neither. The canyon walls and valley provided a little better of a birding opportunity. After failing at the antelope squirrel, we made our way back to Dedication Point where, apart from ravens, we still found a pretty lifeless scene. We started making the drive back towards town when
@Ituri made a lucky stop just prior to the exit to the Conservation Area. Here, we finally found an abundance of very skittish ground squirrels.
176) California Gull
Larus californicus
177) Canyon Wren Catherpes mexicanus
178) Rock Wren
Salpinctes obsoletus
179) Violet-Green Swallow Tachycineta thalassina
180) California Quail
Callipepla californica
30) Piute Ground Squirrel Urocitellus mollis
After lunch, we met up with a local naturalist
@Ituri knows. He was nice enough to take time out of his day to take us around to a couple less obvious spots to look for wildlife. We made attempts for both Northern and Townsend’s Pocket-Gopher as well as wood-rat, and managed to nab one of the three. Following this, we took a drive out to Emmett, Idaho. For only about two months out of the year, if one crosses the Piute River on the far side of town, the farmland and countryside along Van Duesen Road is an excellent place to spot the Southern Idaho Ground Squirrel before they fall back into their 9–10-month slumber. This countryside is also the same area where Idaho's first-ever reported Tricolored Blackbirds have been found. There were two feed lots along this road where flocks of the bird have been seen, as recently as the very same day we were there! Unfortunately, despite multiple attempts at both feed lots, we never managed to find the blackbirds.
181) Lesser Goldfinch
Spinus psaltria
182) Western Kingbird
Tyrannus verticalis
31) Townsend’s Pocket-Gopher Thomomys townsendii
32) Southern Idaho Ground Squirrel Urocitellus endemicus
On our fourth and last full day of the trip,
@Giant Eland made his own way into Washington for addition ground squirrel species.
@Ituri and I decided to take the absence of a true blooded mammal watcher to dedicate some time to pure birding in the mountains near Idaho City. The bulk of our morning was spent along Grimes Creek, which is typically known to be great for a wide variety of montane and foothills species that were on my target list (jays, bluebird, dipper, grouse, pygmy-owl…). Unfortunately, we only encountered one new bird for all our searching, albeit a fantastic one.
183) Steller’s Jay
Cyanocitta stelleri
As the morning came to a close, we decided to start making our way towards the Tamarack Forest mill for our final ground squirrel target: the Northern Idaho Ground Squirrel. This endangered taxa is debatably distinct from its southern counterpart, but is found in much higher elevations and wakes from hibernation later in the season than the SIGS. Mid-to-late April is generally the only time of year when one can expect to maybe find both taxa awake and active at the same time. Unfortunately, the heavy snowfall we’d been finding throughout all our mountain adventures left us hesitant to even attempt this squirrel. With the frustrating lack of new birds near Idaho City, however, we decided to make a go at it knowing the route would take us past Ponderosa State Park, where new opportunities might present themselves.
After over two hours of white-knuckle dirt road driving through the melting mountain roads of rural Idaho, we made it into the Cascades region. Despite hopes of Moose, grouse, and maybe even Bighorn Sheep along our drive, we didn’t spot much from the car. One animal we did encounter, though, was the true Yellow-Pine Chipmunk and a number of red squirrels. Once in McCall, we continued to find little more than a snow packed town at first. We much of the State Park itself closed, we opted instead to simply drive around the town keeping an ear out for any new birds. As luck would have it, we did manage to find our final three new bird species for the trip:
184) Pygmy Nuthatch Sitta pygmaea
185) Mountain Chickadee Poecile gambeli
186) Cassin’s Finch Haemorhous cassinii
With rain starting to fall, we headed towards Tamarack Forest Products and the Weiser River Trail, a public path that runs through the mill grounds in New Meadows, Idaho. The hillside here is reportedly great for finding NIGS. For us, we only found more snow. Accepting our fate, we headed back down the mountains and made a final go for the blackbirds. Unfortunately, same bad luck. That luck would only compound as when we stopped at the second of the feed lots, I heard the hissing of air spewing out of one of our tires. After a mad dash to get back on paved roads and somewhere safe to change the tire, we were left to reevaluate our plans. Initially, we’d planned to make our way towards the Diamondfield Jack Campgrounds to search for Cassia Crossbill in the morning before I would fly out of Salt Lake City, Utah, and
@Ituri would continue the drive home. Instead, we had the tire patched in the morning and rushed to Utah for me to catch my flight. Fittingly, as I sat in the airport waiting for my plane a hailstorm rolled in. Not the most triumphant of endings to this trip report. Not all endings are, though.
So, what did I make of our trip? Was it worth it? Absolutely! It’s very unfortunate we were met with the poor timing and luck we found with the unusual weather, but I still had a great time with both
@Ituri and
@Giant Eland and I certainly can’t knock 21 lifeticks (22 if you split the Yellow-Pine Chipmunk) in 5 days. Still, I can't help but feel as though I now have unfinished business in Idaho. It's quite likely I will be finding my way back there to try for all the species the weather took real chances away from me at some point in the upcoming years!
~Thylo