Apologies for the writing delay, hasn't been the easiest of weeks but getting back on track now.
Zoo #34, Moskvarium, 8/7/2017
If Moscow Zoo was Planet Nine (turned Pluto), then Moskvarium is Planet Ten, a hypothetical entity for which only scant evidence exists. For a major aquarium - one of Europe's biggest, and no pipsqueak on a global scale either - there's remarkably little about this place here on Zoochat or elsewhere on the internet. This won't be a long post, because I've been struggling with illness and do-morbid apathy for much of the past week, and so my thoughts are already a bit stale.
The other thing that's unusual about Moskvarium, aside from its relative anonymity, is that it's out in the middle of nowhere. It's on the site of a world fair that was held during the Soviet era, and which is now undergoing one of those fitful attempts at urban renewal, into a recreational precinct, that so often seem to involve aquaria. Many of the pavilions from the expo are being restored, and other attractions in the precinct include a replica space shuttle and, because this is Russia, there are the inevitable MiG, an attack helicopter and a ballistic missile on display too. To give an idea of how out of the way they have plonked a mega-aquarium, it's an almost 2km walk from the nearest metro station: almost unheard of for Moscow, which has one of the best public transport networks in the world.
The big attractions here are the cetaceans - they have orcas, at least one beluga and some dolphins - and there is a seperate ticket for the orca show. Admission to the aquarium itself is 1000 rubles (about $A23 for me I think), but I visited on a Saturday evening and it's cheaper during the week. A ticket to the orca show *starts* at 1500 rubles and climbs all the way to 5000 for a seat directly in front of the pool, in what I assume would be the splash zone. I wasn't going to pay that much for a circus act so stuck to the aquarium bit, and I was still able to see the cetaceans, albeit only through small windows into their pools. The orca space seemed decent, as these things go, although it's very hard to judge the size of big water tanks without a top-down view. I saw three orcas, one beluga and two dolphins: the beluga and dolphins were in the same pool, but were separated by ugly wire mesh, like a shark barrier surrounding a beach.
Aside from the cetaceans, the rest of the aquarium stretches out in a big horseshoe shape. It boasts of having 80 exhibits: there's only 79 marked on maps but there's an unmarked, very 'modern upscale hotel lobby' style pool for koi at the start of the tour that doesn't appear on the map. That aesthetic doesn't quite follow into the main display corridor, which I think reaches for post-industrial chic but falls just short, and lands on 'TV sci-fi set', instead. If you have ever seen Stargate, imagine that the endless grey corridors on board the ships are wider, and there are windows with fish in them.
That number of exhibits is padded out with quite a few tanks for pet shop fish - for fighting fish, for neon tetras, for discus and so on - and most of the exhibits are your stock standard aquarium ensemble. There's a number of exhibits at the start that feature Russian habitats (labelled on maps as the Japan, White and Black seas and 'small rivers of Russia'), but they're small and mostly, I think, a missed opportunity. Unfortunately I'm not somebody who can give advice on whether it's a go-to destination for species hunters, but some cool species I noticed that I wasn't familiar with were humpback turretfish, zebra catfish and fire eels.
One big advantage of this place - and probably, by extension, of its out of the way location with plenty of room - is that the layout is remarkably spacious. At a guess there would have been in the high hundreds of people in the aquarium section when I was there, but it wasn't crowded. The corridors are wide and, best of all, although there are two big tunnel tanks (one freshwater, one tropical marine sharks), neither are bottlenecks like they so often are in smaller aquaria. Both tunnels serve as side corridors to the main route through the aquarium: you're only going through there to see that tank (also viewable from full-size, side-on windows), not to get from one exhibit to another. It makes an enormous, defining difference to the experience here, and that lack of crowding is one reason why I'm putting it ahead of Genoa as Europe's third best aquarium (that I've visited), even if the outright quality of Lisbon or Valencia isn't quite there.
That's pretty much it, really. There's something I think I've forgotten, though. What was... oh yeah. The last exhibit on the horseshoe. About eight Baikal seals, zipping back and forth like beer kegs with flippers. Not sure if they'd be of interest to anyone though.