DAY 12: Thursday, July 25th (3 zoos)
After visiting a trio of famous Belgian zoos in the form of Antwerp, Planckendael and Pairi Daiza, which are all totally different from each other and arguably three of the better zoos in all of Europe, I was almost done with Belgium but a couple of small places remained on my itinerary.
I drove from Pairi Daiza, one of Europe’s biggest and most popular zoos, for 1.5 hours northeast to the Belgian city of Liege. This would be a day of 3 nations, and almost 4 zoos…
Zoo/Aquarium # 32: Liege Aquarium-Museum (Liege, BE)
Right in downtown Liege, in a grand old building that looks mightily impressive from the edge of the canal, sits this structure that is only 7 Euros to enter. The whole bottom floor is the Aquarium area, with a count of 44 tanks in total. There is a floor-to-ceiling shark exhibit with a trio of Black-tipped Reef Sharks that are clearly too big for their accommodation, plus the tank is a rectangular shape which is highly unusual for sharks. There is also a large tank that looks as if it was once a touch tank, but the water has been deliberately drained just enough so that visitors cannot reach in and get at the inhabitants. All of the other remaining tanks are in a single curved room, with exhibits lining the sides in an old-fashioned setup. Species that I will highlight are the following: Dusky Grouper, Giant Spotted Grouper, Remora, Red Scorpionfish, Large Spotted Dogfish, Thornback Ray, Deep-snouted Pipefish, Big-belly Seahorse, Yellow Seahorse, Green Moray Eel, Snowflake Moray Eel, Common European Eel, West African Lungfish and Common Octopus. It’s a predictable Aquarium with nothing spectacular anywhere.
There is a separate, small museum section with a stuffed Thylacine, a Charles Darwin bust, a stuffed ‘Huia’ (now extinct) and a bunch of other seemingly random objects that do eventually tie into an evolutionary theme. On a separate level of the building is a sprawling set of 4 rooms with a tremendous amount of taxidermy items. None of the labels or signs are in English, beyond a rudimentary name like ‘Pine Marten’, which meant that I didn’t hover for a great deal of time. Some zoo nerds probably like antiquated museums but after seeing so many zoos each day a series of glass-enclosed dead animals is not very thrilling. The entire time I was there, in 4 spacious rooms, I did not see a single individual come inside, even though the Aquarium on the bottom floor with its 44 tanks was very busy. People just don’t care about old-fashioned museums these days, especially ones lacking modern, interpretative material. If one was into that kind of thing, then the Liege Aquarium-Museum could be a full-day outing as it has a tremendous amount of minutia to study.
I then drove 30 minutes south to my first drive-through safari zoo of the trip.
Zoo/Aquarium # 33: Safari Parc Monde Sauvage (Wild Safari World Park) (Aywaille, BE)
This facility opened in 1962 and the staff members tell you right at the gate that for a large fee you can ‘be in Africa’. That sounded exciting and so I drove through the gate and the first 30 minutes is a drive-through safari where you take your own vehicle through. The other option is a 45-minute safari on a cute little kiddie safari land train and I quickly bypassed that option. The species list for the African zone is actually quite impressive and I saw almost all of the animals. Those include: African Elephant (separate, very small paddock that is almost criminally tiny), Giraffe (also a separate paddock), Ostrich, Greater Kudu, Sable Antelope, Roan Antelope, Common Eland, Defassa Waterbuck, Scimitar-horned Oryx, Bontebok, Impala, Watusi Cattle, Brindled Gnu, Nyala, Plains Zebra, Common Hippo (separate, muddy pool) and White Rhino (separate, small, dusty paddock). Other than the elephants, rhinos, hippos and giraffes, the rest of the animals are in the same area as the vehicles and while I don’t normally like this sort of thing, I was especially pleased to see both the Sable and Roan Antelope…rarities in North American zoos.
There is a very small drive-through Asian loop with Barasingha, Kiang, Asian Water Buffalo, Nilgai, Bactrian Camel and Yak. A third and final drive-through is via South American critters, with Coati in a separate exhibit and then Capybara, Llama, Rhea, Red-legged Seriema, Lowland Tapir and Mara in the drive-through…plus Maned Wolf on the signs. Would they really be in with all the rest of the critters and people in cars? I couldn’t see any kind of side exhibit for that species.
After the 30-minute safari, there is a substantial walking section that goes through some thick forest. The zoo’s map is junky because it is so tiny, and visitors should be handed magnifying glasses to figure out what the hell they are looking at. I spent 1.5 hours walking around and thus more than two hours inside this zoo in total, proving that it is a park of some substance. For one thing, there are Polar Bears out in the Belgian countryside! There is a rather rundown, outdated, typical Polar Bear-looking enclosure that I shrugged at, but going around the corner I was shocked to see that the zoo had obviously more than doubled the size of the space available to the bears by enclosing a thick strand of woods with fencing. I saw 3 Polar Bears in total, with two of them lounging around in the dirt and looking rather like European Brown Bears. What an extraordinary sight! A fenced-off chunk of forest, perfect for Grizzlies, is actually a Polar Bear exhibit and their dirty white coats stood out in the gloom. (Check the gallery for photos, which can be said for all of the 33 zoos that I’ve visited so far on this trip)
After the surprise of seeing Polar Bears in a woodland environment, I passed an Asiatic Black Bear exhibit (decent), a large field with zero trees that contained at least 5 European Brown Bears and thus the zoo has a trio of bear exhibits as the very first thing visitors see on the walking trail. Up next is an excellent habitat for Humboldt Penguins, with a green lawn, a deep pool and a small underwater viewing section set inside a cool cave. American Bison have several acres to roam and visitors then progress into a forest. There can be found a walk-in Prairie Dog exhibit, a Red Panda enclosure, a big cage with mock-rock viewing for a couple of Striped Skunks and at least 8 or more Raccoons. That was entertaining! There are Wolves up next, and then visitors emerge out of the forest into a primate zone that includes islands for three species of lemur (Ring-tailed, Red Ruffed, Black and White Ruffed) and then even larger island habitats for Chimpanzees, orangutans and Lion-tailed Macaques. Those last few exhibits aren’t great, but they are adequate and not a detriment to the park. Elsewhere is a small Tropical House section, some ungulates like Moose and various antelope, and some big cats.
This being a European zoo, a substantial bird of prey zone is almost a must and here is a species list for Monde Sauvage: Secretary Bird, Andean Condor, Steppe Eagle, White-tailed Eagle, Bald Eagle, Eastern Imperial Eagle, Ruppell’s Vulture, Griffon Vulture, Himalayan Vulture, Cinereous Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, White-backed Vulture, Bengal Eagle-owl, Spectacled Owl, Brown Wood Owl, Snowy Owl, Barn Owl (normal coloured), Barn Owl (melanistic version), Great Grey Owl, Saker Falcon, Caracara and at least half-a-dozen other species that I could not identify as they were in the ‘bird show area’ which is closed to the public when there isn’t a performance.
Kasteelpark Born (Born, NL)
– NON-VISIT
I arrived at this tiny Dutch zoo in the afternoon, during a heatwave that has struck western Europe to a ‘fierce degree’, and I was only a few steps in and admiring some aviaries when I was asked to leave! The reason being was the extreme heat, the lack of visitors, and all but one of the employees was heading home. I wasn’t sure whether I should be outraged, scandalized or demand a private tour at a later date (I’m totally joking here), but nevertheless I had to leave and since I hadn’t paid yet there was no need for reimbursement. Having seen only a couple of aviaries and a Fallow Deer paddock from the road, I’m not going to count this zoo in my all-time total. It is a non-visit and the third one of those on this trip. Who could possibly have imagined a zoo closing because it’s too hot outside?
Zoo/Aquarium # 34: Wildpark Gangelt (Gangelt, DE)
Here is a prime example of a classic German ‘wildpark’, with indigenous fauna on display in natural exhibits set in a thick forest. I enjoyed a full two hours rambling around in the woods, and with the heat and humidity I had much of the park to myself. There is a nice selection of birds of prey, and an impressive list of European animals. European Brown Bear, Wolf, Eurasian Lynx, European Wildcat, Red Fox, European River Otter, Pine Marten, European Mink, Raccoon, Alpine Marmot, European Wild Boar, Alpine Ibex, Chamois, Wisent, Moose, Tarpan, Red Deer and various colour forms of Fallow Deer.
I had a great time at Wildpark Gangelt, with some fantastic moments because all of the animals came over to where I was viewing them. This is the one huge flaw with the place, as it leaves a bad taste to know that visitors feed all the animals in the park. Due to that reason, the bears came lumbering over to see what I had to offer, the Alpine Marmots popped up from their burrows, an otter and a marten both looked up to say hello, etc. It destroys the image of nature when the ‘wild’ critters are eager for handouts. The two highlights would be when a keeper threw some food into the densely-planted Eurasian Lynx exhibit and one of the cats emerged from the undergrowth. Apparently, the park has 7 Lynx (1.3.3) even though I only saw the one. That illustrates just how effective the exhibit is in terms of hiding opportunities for the felines. The other highlight was seeing a herd of Chamois, some right up at the fence and getting their backs scratched from me, as that species is practically unheard of in North American zoos.
I then drove 30 minutes to the Netherlands and the tiny village (pop. 2,000) of Thorn. There I met
@Stefan Verhoeven and I spent the night at his house. What a generous man! We’d obviously never met before and he simply offered me a room before I left Canada after he saw my potential trip plans on ZooChat. I asked him if I could shed some light on him and he was fine with it. Stefan is 38 years old, a qualified veterinarian, and he has a dog and hundreds of finches in a nice aviary in his backyard. We went walking down the main street of the village and the first restaurant we tried to enter was closed due to the heat…then the second restaurant was also closed due to the extreme heat…but on the third try we were relieved to find somewhere nice and we had a great meal.