And we shouldn't forget...
Snowleopard's 2019 Road Trip: Netherlands, Belgium, France & Germany
- Thread starter snowleopard
- Start date
It's not the first time the aspect of differentiation between zoos and amusement parks has been discussed, and it won't certainly be the last. Having kids, I do know how much many of them love joyrides and other technical attractions. And it's not just kids: given official attendance numbers, a great part of the population born in the 1980s and 1990s loves to spend time and money in amusement parks all over the world, no matter whether they have children or not. How this can be made compatible with the current Western appeal (FFF etc) for antipollution and stricter regulation of energy consumption has yet to be seen.
However, the more or less self-imposed role and thus self-justification of continued existence of the modern zoo in a changing social climate (where the husbandry of wild animals is ethically & emotionally challenged by various interest groups) as a serious(?) center of conservation and research somehow collides thematically with the introduction of more and more joyrides and other amusement park elements. Some zoos manage to do respectable conservation work despite huge investments in non-animal attractions, but for how long?
Maybe we're going to see a further thematical split between some zoos that merely want to amuse and entertain their customers and slowly but surely turn into amusement parks. And zoos that simply can't afford to join the race for more and more exciting (and costly) attractions and rather focus on the quiet, yet more sustainable approach @Ned mentioned, to inspire the next generations for the dwindling nature around them. Given that visitors will vote with their feet, maybe both extremes as well as combinations of both can co-exist; maybe not. I just hope it won't be just amusement parks. I hope.
However, the more or less self-imposed role and thus self-justification of continued existence of the modern zoo in a changing social climate (where the husbandry of wild animals is ethically & emotionally challenged by various interest groups) as a serious(?) center of conservation and research somehow collides thematically with the introduction of more and more joyrides and other amusement park elements. Some zoos manage to do respectable conservation work despite huge investments in non-animal attractions, but for how long?
Maybe we're going to see a further thematical split between some zoos that merely want to amuse and entertain their customers and slowly but surely turn into amusement parks. And zoos that simply can't afford to join the race for more and more exciting (and costly) attractions and rather focus on the quiet, yet more sustainable approach @Ned mentioned, to inspire the next generations for the dwindling nature around them. Given that visitors will vote with their feet, maybe both extremes as well as combinations of both can co-exist; maybe not. I just hope it won't be just amusement parks. I hope.
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DAY 26: Thursday, August 8th (1 zoo)
Now that zoo #500 all-time is out of the way, it was time to move on from Hagenbeck and check out the Berlin behemoths. I stuck very closely to my itinerary on the first part of this trek, other than a few bits and bobs and an afternoon in France, but here are the 8 zoos that I cut from my schedule in order to veer far away to the land of ‘monster zoos’.
Vlinderparadijs Papiliorama (Havelte, NL)
Zoo Bizar (Orvelte, NL)
Orchideeenhoeve (Luttelgeest, NL)
Dierenpark Taman Indonesia (Kallenkote, NL)
Vogelpark Ruinen (Ruinen, NL)
Vogelpark de Lorkeershoeve (Lutten, NL)
Sanjes Zoo (Feanwalden, NL)
AquaZoo Friesland (Leeuwarden, NL) – the only legitimate downside was missing this one
In the end I won’t surpass 50 Dutch zoos, but I will visit 43 Dutch zoos and that’s enough for this lifetime. The Berlin giants were calling my name, and since they are regarded as near the apex of zoological wonders it would have been silly for me to drive within a few hours and then ignore them just so I could add on a whole bunch of small zoos in the Netherlands. I battled the traffic of Berlin and for the only time on this whole 32-night trip I had back-to-back nights in the same hotel. I found a place (via booking.com like usual) a 15-minute walk from Zoo Berlin, amidst the cacophony of noise that is dominant in the proud and famous city.
Zoo/Aquarium # 80: Berlin Zoo (Berlin, DE)
I loved my day at Berlin Zoo, the English-based appellation that I’m going with for this review. It’s a zoo that opened in 1844 and is famous, among other things, for the size of its animal collection and the ongoing popularity of the attraction. Well over 3 million visitors enter the famous gates each and every year, making it the most popular zoo in all of Europe. From the zoo’s birth as the oldest in Germany, through its survival of two World Wars, to the renaissance of worldwide popularity thanks to Knut the Polar Bear (now sadly deceased) to the recent reconstruction of new exhibits, Berlin is a magnificent zoo that is steeped in history and yet filled with modern touches. Many of you are extremely curious to know my overall feelings, and so I’ll get it out of the way right here and now. Berlin is the 3rd best zoo I’ve ever toured, after only San Diego and Omaha. It really is that impressive, and while I enjoyed Berlin Tierpark a great deal, it pales in comparison to Berlin Zoo.
The zoo’s map states that there are “more than 20,000 animals from around 1,250 species spread across 33 hectares” and the sheer scale of the place can be daunting. Perhaps only the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago has as many species in its animal collection as Berlin, but the German zoo has a comprehensive animal collection spread over more than 80 acres and it takes all day to see. I enjoy all types of zoos, whether they be small and specific in terms of geographical location (Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum in the USA or Alice Springs Desert Park in the Outback of Australia), or specific in a focus on a type of animal (Apenheul), but when it comes to talking about the 'best of the best' then it seems 90% of people on ZooChat would agree that the zoos in that category are the big, full-day establishments such as Berlin, San Diego, Bronx, Omaha, Prague and, for better or worse, Pairi Daiza. A zoo that takes up a whole day is a place where one gets value for money and can see an immense number of animals...in many ways the whole point of a great zoo.
Berlin Zoo has an absolutely stunning Aquarium, originally built in 1913 and that was where I began my day. After the crushing Aquarium crowds at rain-soaked Hagenbeck the day before, I wanted to get a jump start ahead of everyone else and I was one of the few visitors in the Aquarium right after the zoo opened. This building, with the huge Iguanodon statue out front, is magnificent. The entire first floor is full of tanks, with 79 listed via the numbers on each exhibit. That is an astonishing amount for any aquarium, let alone a facility found within a zoo (with admission at an extra cost). There are many standard-sized fish tanks set in the wall with a dizzying array of species, plus a couple of floor-to-ceiling shark tanks, and the spectacular Amazon section with Arapaima and other big fish, and the quantity is there as well as the quality. If someone has a hankering to see some jellyfish, the zoo has South Atlantic Jellyfish, Moon Jellyfish, Cannonball Jellyfish, Palau Jellyfish, Marble Jellyfish and Mediterranean Jellyfish. There are so many aquatic delights that having almost 80 tanks could be a good chunk of the day for a fish fanatic. I particularly enjoyed how the tanks were split up into geographical areas (Northern Europe, North America, Amazon) and other notable species that caught my eye were Bonnethead Shark, Small-spotted Catshark, Blacktip Reef Shark, Nurse Shark, Epaulette Shark, Ornate Wobbegong, Pearse’s Mudskipper, Electric Eel and South American Lungfish. The number of species of small, colourful reef fish is bewildering and there must be at least 5 eel species.
The Aquarium building then has a whole second floor of fantastical creatures. The zoo, it should be pointed out, is aware that at some point in time it was in danger of becoming a bit outdated in terms of the quality of exhibits around the grounds. There has been a lot of progress in revamping several areas at both the Zoo and Tierpark, with little signs that say “we are modernizing the zoo” in a few areas. Therefore, an explicit acceptance of some outdated areas has been admitted and Berlin Zoo has undergone a lot of changes in the past decade. I’ve seen old photos of the second floor of the Aquarium and the reptile displays were extremely basic in presentation style. A few years ago, the entire second floor of the building was transformed over the time frame of a full 12 months, and it reopened in 2016. The facility joined the modern world of herpetological displays and what is there now is modern, refreshing and a joy to behold. The middle section, which covers two levels, has a pair of steamy, humid crocodilian tanks (Gharial and Spectacled Caiman) and then there are essentially two hallways. One of them has 15 exhibits for desert species, all set in an arid environment with lots of sand and beige tones. The second hallway has exactly 17 jungle/tropical exhibits, with a lot of green shades. Add in the two crocodilian habitats in the middle and there are 34 exhibits in total.
Species list for the entire second floor (58 species): Gharial, Spectacled Caiman, Smooth-fronted Caiman, Burmese Python, Savu Python, Green Tree Python, Woma Python, Rainbow Boa, Puerto Rican Boa, Boa Constrictor, Cave-dwelling Ratsnake, Red-tailed Green Ratsnake, Honduran Milksnake, Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, Trans-pecos Copperhead, Tuatara, Merten’s Water Monitor, Blue Spotted Tree Monitor (not even scientifically described until 2001), Black Tree Monitor, Fiji Banded Iguana, Rhinoceros Iguana, Green Iguana, Madagascar Spiny-tailed Iguana, Caiman Lizard, East African Spiny-tailed Lizard, Ornate Spiny-tailed Lizard, Omani Spiny-tailed Lizard, Blue Spiny Lizard, Blue Rock Lizard, Beaded Lizard, Gila Monster, Frill-necked Lizard, Standing’s Day Gecko, Bosc’s Fringe-toed Lizard, Short-tailed Horned Lizard, Hispaniolan Curlytail Lizard, Roughtail Rock Agama, Black Agama, Martinique Anole, Green Keel-bellied Lizard, Panther Chameleon, Giant Plated Lizard, Four-striped Plated Lizard, Bearded Dragon, Solomon Islands Skink, Blue-tongued Skink, Cunningham’s Skink, Australian Water Dragon, Green Basilisk, Red-footed Tortoise, Spider Tortoise, Radiated Tortoise, Hilaire’s Side-necked Turtle, Yellow-spotted Amazon River Turtle, Snake-necked Turtle, Red-bellied Short-necked Turtle, Bornean River Turtle and Pig-nosed Turtle.
There is still another floor to go, with a room full of amphibians and what must be one of Europe’s most extensive invertebrate collections. There are exactly 30 exhibits in the amphibian zone, with 33 total species. In the invertebrate zone the zoo lists 35 exhibits (they are numbered) but technically there are 42 exhibits because some of the spaces have multiple vivariums in one area.
Species list for the third floor amphibian section (33 species): Hong Kong Whipped Frog, Siamese Frog, African Bullfrog, Amazon Milk Frog, Chinese Gliding Frog, Darkeared Frog, Borneo Eared Frog, Cuban Tree Frog, Red-eyed Tree Frog, Snouted Tree Frog, Green Tree Frog, White-lipped Tree Frog, Anthony’s Poison Arrow Frog, four species of Dyeing Poison Frog, Brazilian Poison Frog, Budget’s Frog, Brongersma’s Toad, Sabana Surinam Toad, Eastern Green Toad, Cane Toad, Yellow-bellied Toad, Oriental Fire-bellied Toad, Fire Salamander, Tiger Salamander, Chinese Warty Newt, Algerian Ribbed Newt, Kaiser’s Spotted Newt, Axolotl, Rio Cauca Caecilian and African Lungfish.
Species list for the third floor invertebrate section (51 species): Honey Bee, Giant Grasshopper, Giant Prickly Stick Insect, Red-striped Stick Insect, Sulawesi Stick Insect, Spiny Dragon Head, African Twig Mantis, Malayan Jungle Nymph, Giant Spiny Stick, Leaf Insect, Walking Bean, Leaf-cutter Ant, Black Weaver Ant, Giant Meal Beetle, Beckeri’s Giant Beetle, Taxicab Beetle, Derbyan’s Buffalo Beetle, Jade-headed Buffalo Beetle, Hologram Beetle, Emerald Flower Beetle, Cyan-blue Flower Beetle, Giant Flower Beetle, White-spot Assassin Bug, Peppered Roach, Warty Glowspot Cockroach, Madagascar Hissing Cockroach, Orange Head Cockroach, Halloween Hisser, Whip Spider, Southern Black Widow, Zebra Spider, Brazilian Salmon Tarantula, Brazilian Black Tarantula, Trinidad Chevron Tarantula, Costa Rica Tiger-rump Tarantula, Chilean Rose Tarantula, Giant White-knee Tarantula, Deathstalker, Flat Rock Scorpion, Giant Whip Scorpion, Black Cameroon Train, Giant Millipede, Tanzania Green-banded Millipede, Hermit Crab, Giant Zanzibar Snail, Asian Apple Snail, Giant Tower Cap Snail, White Flame Snail, Crystal Bee Shrimp, Opossum Shrimp and Bamboo Shrimp.
So, to give a brief recap, the Aquarium building is a tremendously valuable piece of zoo architecture and a visitor must set aside a minimum of two hours or more just to properly see everything. With almost 80 tanks, the first floor has a staggering number of species, with many tanks holding multiple types of fish. The second floor has 34 exhibits and 58 species, with lots of mixed-species terrariums and this floor is essentially an excellent, modern Reptile House. Finally, visitors go up to the third floor, where there are 30 exhibits for amphibians and, in a separate area, 42 exhibits for invertebrates. The whole building has a whopping 185 exhibits and literally hundreds of species on display. Of note, is that I saw Cologne Zoo’s similar building, with its 170 exhibits, but Berlin ‘wins’ hands-down in terms of overall quality. The structure must be a candidate for the greatest zoo building on the planet in terms of quality and quantity, not to mention its 1913 origins which are of historical importance. Berlin’s Aquarium is phenomenal. One could arguably call it a day right then and there and there would be no complaints. But, oh wait, there’s another 80 acres to explore. Yikes!
The new Panda Garden complex is large (0.5 hectares/1.2 acres including visitor areas) for a pair of Giant Pandas, and the lineups were deep there all day long. The two outdoor yards are very nice indeed, although now that I’ve seen pandas at 7 zoos in my lifetime, the best outdoor area is still at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and the best indoor area is Ouwehands in Rhenen, the Netherlands. This area is yet another part of the ‘modernization’ of the zoo, as it only just opened in 2017 and is already a significant highlight with many visitors flocking to that area throughout the day. I’m sure that many families would list the Panda Garden as the top attraction of the entire zoo, and while it’s nicely done, at the end of the day the whole thing is for a couple of slow-moving, sleepy bears. I am curious to know what was in Berlin Zoo before the arrival of the Panda Garden. Was it a long row of deer paddocks?
Birds at Berlin Zoo are a whole day out for bird fanatics. The upper left-hand corner of the zoo map lists the World of Birds and the Pheasantry, plus there are a tremendous number of aviaries all over that corner of this great zoo. Not being a big fan of small birds, as I’ve seen approximately 5 million of them in the past month, I gamely marched on through all of the various feathered regions of the zoo, and the World of Birds is yet another new part of Berlin Zoo. Just a few years ago, the structure was radically overhauled/built and there is still a series of aviaries in all directions, but these aviaries are light and airy and probably bird fans will think that they’ve died and gone to heaven. Are there any better Bird Houses at any zoos on the planet? I personally prefer the big, modern walk-through aviaries and there are two of those here inside World of Birds, although not really big enough to accommodate well over 3 million annual visitors. I counted 6 aviaries in the African section, 1 in the New Zealand area (a single darkened room for Northern Brown Kiwi – not seen by me), 7 aviaries in the Australian room, another 7 aviaries in the Asian room, and 15 in the South American section. That makes 36 aviaries, plus two walk-through areas. Apart from the all-indoor kiwi affair, the remaining 35 aviaries all have corresponding aviaries on the outside of the building and in truth this means that some birds cannot be easily seen as they flit back and forth between their aviaries. Nevertheless, here is another new part of Berlin Zoo that is, for the most part, a resounding success.
Near the amazing World of Birds is a whole series of aviaries. There is a walk-through Inca Tern exhibit with a wave machine that wants to lull people to sleep as the crashing waves soothe the mind and Inca Terns swiftly dart through the sky. Berlin is such a big zoo that this Inca Tern aviary doesn’t even make it onto the map, but don’t miss this slice of excellence. James’s, Lesser and Andean Flamingos are found around the corner, to go with Greater Flamingos and Chilean Flamingos elsewhere in the park. Is that it for flamingos? Only 5 flamingo species…come on Berlin! There is a Southern Cassowary exhibit hidden around a back loop, loads more aviaries in this part of the zoo, and the Pheasantry has 6 indoor aviaries with species such as Kagu (I saw 3 of them), Javan Pond Heron, Boat-billed Heron, Great Curassow, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Spotted Thick-knee, White-bellied Bustard, Bare-faced Go-away Bird, Malaysian Fireback, Grey Peacock-pheasant, Blue-throated Piping Guan, Greater Roadrunner, Little Bittern, Asian Pied Starling, Blue Magpie and many more.
One delightful section of the zoo that also has a number of bird species is Eagle Canyon, which from 2015 to 2018 saw a three-year renovation of the whole area. I saw species such as Eurasian Griffon Vulture, Hooded Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, White-headed Vulture, Palm-nut Vulture, King Vulture, Bearded Vulture, Southern Ground Hornbill, Bateleur Eagle (a few feet from my face in the walk-through aviary), Golden Eagle, Spectacled Owl, Snowy Owl, Great Grey Owl, Southern Crested Caracara and White-necked Raven. Years ago, there was apparently 65 aviaries in this part of the zoo, all cramped and old-fashioned. Now, as in so many other areas, Berlin Zoo has joined the modern world. It’s a terrific area for birds of prey and nearby is the famous Swine House and pig-like creatures in the vicinity include Bornean Bearded Pig (the last one in Europe?), Visayan Warty Pig, Babirusa, White-lipped Peccary and Vietnamese Pot-bellied Pig.
The Antelope House has a magnificent appearance, almost impossible to describe to somehow other than to say it is architecturally stunning, and currently there is a historical exhibition that showcases the history of this famous zoo in a series of large signs that are partly in English. I must applaud the zoo for embracing its history, good or bad, as there is mention of “exotic humans” on display and that “by 1952, at least 25 ‘exotic’ groups had been exhibited at the Berlin Zoo. The expected revenue was a major incentive for the fair organizers and the zoo. The shows drew a record number of visitors, even outside the regular season." For those of us that own at least one Berlin Zoo history book, the acknowledgement of humans on display is powerful. Inside the Antelope House are stalls for Defassa Waterbuck, Southern Gerenuk, Sitatunga, Kafue Lechwe, Giraffes (there are only two) and Northern Ground Hornbill. Outdoor paddocks surround the iconic Antelope House and hopefully this structure is left untouched by modern flourishes as it is tremendous.
The Primate House is a very large building, and typical of European zoos it is possible to go inside and see all of the holding quarters for the various primates. However, visitors need to walk around the entire building, as there are primate outdoor yards on both sides, and it would be easy to miss something without a full loop. The species list contains 21 primate species + 3 more mammal species: Lowland Gorilla, Sumatran Orangutan, Chimpanzee, Bonobo, Siamang, Mandrill, Weeper Capuchin, Brown-headed Spider Monkey, Black Howler Monkey, Owl-faced Monkey, Toque Macaque, Japanese Macaque, Hanuman Langur, Red Titi, Silvered Leaf Monkey, Squirrel Monkey, Goeldi’s Monkey, Cotton-top Tamarin, Emperor Tamarin, Black-mantled Tamarin, White-fronted Marmoset, Prevost’s Squirrel, Linne’s Two-toed Sloth and Southern Three-banded Armadillo. To have 21 primate species, including several rarities, living in a single zoo building is nothing short of astonishing, and how many zoos can say that? There is even an outdoor yard for ‘Fatou’, a geriatric female Lowland Gorilla that has been at Berlin Zoo since 1959, and possibly born in 1957, making her the oldest gorilla in Europe and she’s lived alone for almost a decade because the original troop rejected her. Some of the indoor accommodation in the Primate House is excellent, with thick mulch on the ground, and a few of the outdoor yards are equally excellent, but I do feel that the Bonobo cage is disappointing (especially when I’ve seen that species blossom elsewhere), and a few others (for example, the Siamangs) could do with larger exhibits. Overall though, combining the quality of many of the enclosures with the amazing number of species on display, the Primate House is a lovely way to spend a significant amount of time at the zoo. Across from this area is a big, mock-rock exhibit for a huge troop of Hamadryas Baboons (much better than most baboon ‘blobs’) and smaller, satellite exhibits for Lion-tailed Macaques, Cape Porcupines, Brush-tailed Porcupines and that ubiquitous zoo animal known as the Meerkat. It is easy enough to walk around a few acres of the Berlin Zoo and all in one area see 23 primate species plus a few other animals. That is, in many ways, breathtaking.
The Rhino House is a shadow of its former self and that’s probably a good thing. All of the rhinos are long gone and all that is left are species such as Baird’s Tapir (rare in Europe), Lowland Tapir, Dromedary, Alpaca and various domestics. There are big signs everywhere promoting the fact that the zoo is going to build an entirely new Rhino House on the current footprint and thus that section of the zoo will be modernized and likely become a popular area because right next door is the Hippo House. There are Common Hippos inside an impressive dome, with underwater viewing and Nyalas in their incredibly green and lush outdoor yard. Maybe the hippos don’t go out there very often? Pygmy Hippos are at the other side of the house, again with underwater viewing and a nice outdoor exhibit, and a Lowland Anoa exhibit is just around the corner.
Bears at the zoo are represented in a series of exhibits that reminded me of bigger, better versions of Philadelphia Zoo’s Bear Country. There are currently three exhibits in a row for Sloth Bears, one larger enclosure with a huge pool for Polar Bears, some ‘Polar’ Wolves in a nicely landscaped exhibit, and an Asiatic Black Bear in the final enclosure. African Wild Dogs have a spacious yard that is looked down upon with what appears to be minimal barriers directly across from the wolves.
An area labeled as Penguin World has a California Sea Lion exhibit with a wave machine (although not on the same scale as Hannover’s ‘Yukon Bay’) and the pinnipeds are a joy to watch and I lingered there longer than expected. African Penguins have a standard-sized exhibit, then there are Humboldt Penguins in their own pool, plus King and Rockhopper Penguins in a third, all-indoor penguin exhibit. Having a trio of penguin enclosures all close together is pure Berlin. European Beavers and Coatis aren’t too far away, and a little down the path is a very impressive Andean Condor aviary with clear sightlines of the birds. South African Fur Seals have a sign, but their exhibit appears to be empty, although Small-clawed Otters have a typical enclosure nearby.
There is a very effective section of mountainous exhibits for the likes of Sichuan Takin, Himalayan Tahr and Alpine Ibex, with shades of Hagenbeck as there is a sloping pathway up the cliff-side and these exhibits all stand the test of time. I think that I ‘only’ saw 95% of the zoo, as even though I used a pen to outline a pathway each time I walked down it, I think that there were/are marmot exhibits in this zone. I didn’t see any, but missing a couple of marmot enclosures is easily done in a zoo of this size. One area that does not meet the modern age is the Elephant House, with its tiny, sterile bull yard with traditional sight-lines of cement and deep moats. The cow yard is naturally larger, but again the zoo could do much better with their elephants. The old barn isn’t aesthetically pleasing, the floors are all cement with little natural substrate, and the entire elephant complex is one that I’d ensure is a major project for the future if I were Zoo Director. There are many little lakes all over the zoo, and so filling in the flamingo/waterfowl lake directly next to the elephants (and to the left of the Primate House) would allow the zoo to possibly double the size of the current elephant exhibit. That could be one option, or maybe only having elephants at the Berlin Tierpark, with its 160 hectares/400 acres of space, is a better solution to seeing elephants in cramped, outdated conditions at the main zoo. If such an exhibit existed in North America, then there would be monthly protests until it was changed for the better. Some readers might think that the current elephant area at Berlin Zoo is adequate, but how is that the standard for one of the world’s truly great zoological gardens? Adequate or mediocre are not terms to use when discussing the Elephant House, but ‘superlative’ should be the long-term goal. A possible placement for a brand-new, modern Asian Elephant exhibit at the zoo would be the slightly separate set of 6 enclosures in the upper right-hand corner of the zoo map (more on those later). That entire area could be turned over to elephants, with some satellite exhibits, and that would get more visitors over there and ease any possible congestion elsewhere in the zoo.
As can be determined from this lengthy review, Berlin Zoo follows a taxonomic approach all across the zoo. Primates all together in one area, birds in another, bears in a series of enclosures, larger animals each with their own separate ‘houses’, carnivores in a currently-closed building and even many hoofstock paddocks all in a row. In the center, and moving towards the right-hand side of the zoo, are exhibits for American Bison, Wisent, Domestic Water Buffalo, Forest Buffalo, Gaur, European Forest Reindeer, Mesopotamian Fallow Deer, Ankole, Black Rhino, Common Eland, Bongo, Okapi, Scimitar-horned Oryx, Sable Antelope, Gemsbok, Grevy’s Zebra, Plains Zebra and Giant Anteater. The zoo’s Zebra House is a big, imposing white building with a little veranda at the top that holds flower pots and other adornments. A sign states that the structure was completed in 1910 and it is “among the best-preserved examples of the zoo’s original buildings, as it was one of the few to sustain only minor damage during the Second World War”.
In the top, right-hand side of the zoo is a separate area with a single big loop around 6 exhibits. It’s a pleasant and yet fairly dull part of the zoo and by crossing a bridge it seems odd to tour an area that in some ways doesn’t feel a part of the rest of the facility. (Hence my proposal to build a new elephant exhibit in the area) Nevertheless, the exhibit quality is high because there are essentially 6 spacious yards. The first is an African Savanna-type enclosure for Blesbok, Springbok, Greater Kudu, Ostrich and Helmeted Guineafowl. Then there is a yard for Parma Wallabies and Emus, followed by a Przewalski’s Horse/Shetland Pony exhibit and there’s a couple of species that I’ve never seen together before! Barasingha have their own yard, Red Kangaroos have an enclosure, and a South American pampas scene unfolds as the final exhibit and the species there are the following: Vicuna, Mara, Capybara, Greater Rhea, Southern Screamer and Coscoroba Swan. This section of the zoo is okay but obviously it features a range of exhibits that are not something to get many people excited about and I found this zone to be the quietest section of the entire park.
Even with 4 outdoor enclosures around the zoo all empty (possibly all for hoofstock), and the two paddocks by the Rhino House also empty, and the entire Carnivore House/Nocturnal House and surrounding area under refurbishment (probably 2-3 acres of land and 40 species), it still took me a full 8 hours even with all of those closures. If everything had been open then I would have not have been able to see the entire zoo in one day. In a weird twist of fate, the massive Carnivore House at Berlin Tierpark (where I was the next day) was also under construction and off-limits, meaning that I went around two of the world’s most famous zoos and scarcely saw any big cats. In a small way it was a blessing that at both zoos there was a massive area closed down to the public, because I spent 8 hours at each location and I was walking, walking, walking…until I turned into a zombie late in the afternoon at the Tierpark. But that’s a story for another day.
So where does Berlin Zoo fit in the grand scheme of things in terms of world zoo rankings? Kudos must go to the fact that Berlin, more so than any zoo on the planet, truly attempts to showcase the entire animal kingdom. An extensive aquarium section, a second-floor Reptile House, a tremendous array of amphibians and insects, and all of that is enclosed within a stunning building. There is a vast Carnivore House and Nocturnal House (currently closed), elephants, rhinos, two hippo species, giraffes, plenty of ungulates, 4 bear species, 23 primate species, hundreds of types of birds, with classic buildings and zoo nerd rarities all over the place. What more could anyone want from a zoo?
I’m an ‘exhibits guy’ and I’m glad that I saw Berlin now and not in the past. With numerous signs saying that “we are modernizing the zoo” that means there is an implied acceptance that Berlin Zoo was not modern and updated to high standards in the past. Some of the criticism leveled at this famous old institution must have had an effect, because the entire World of Birds building has been overhauled/rebuilt from top-to-bottom, and the entire floor of the Aquarium building (the reptile area) was closed for a year and dramatically renovated. Eagle Canyon was completely changed over a three-year period, the Panda Garden was built at an enormous cost, the bear exhibits were altered significantly, and now both the Carnivore House and the Rhino House are going to undergo dramatic transformations. The Rhino House, if I’m not mistaken, is going to be completely demolished and, at some point, the zoo is going to need to do something about its elephants. The numerous recent changes at Berlin Zoo have resulted in a major reduction in the number of overall species, but the exhibits are now great enough to meet the approval of someone who analyzes zoo exhibits for a hobby.
The Berlin Zoo that I saw on a bright summer day was superb. The range of species is astonishing, and I can see why it is easily a two-day zoo. Often zoo nerds find that repeat visits to large zoos are faster due to the familiarity of a second visit, but I walked my shoes into the dust and had two blisters on each heel to deal with that night, and I still struggled to see it all in 8 hours with some sections closed down. The next time I come to Berlin, with a brand-new Carnivore House and a brand-new Rhino House, and whatever else is built, I will likely make it a two-day zoo. Maybe a day and a half at Berlin Zoo and a day and a half at Berlin Tierpark to ease the visits and do the two behemoths over 3 days combined. With the surprisingly high quality of the exhibits, the immense animal collection, and the ‘aura’ that the zoo projects, it is easy for me to declare Berlin as the #3 zoo that I’ve ever visited. I can’t wait to return.
Now that zoo #500 all-time is out of the way, it was time to move on from Hagenbeck and check out the Berlin behemoths. I stuck very closely to my itinerary on the first part of this trek, other than a few bits and bobs and an afternoon in France, but here are the 8 zoos that I cut from my schedule in order to veer far away to the land of ‘monster zoos’.
Vlinderparadijs Papiliorama (Havelte, NL)
Zoo Bizar (Orvelte, NL)
Orchideeenhoeve (Luttelgeest, NL)
Dierenpark Taman Indonesia (Kallenkote, NL)
Vogelpark Ruinen (Ruinen, NL)
Vogelpark de Lorkeershoeve (Lutten, NL)
Sanjes Zoo (Feanwalden, NL)
AquaZoo Friesland (Leeuwarden, NL) – the only legitimate downside was missing this one
In the end I won’t surpass 50 Dutch zoos, but I will visit 43 Dutch zoos and that’s enough for this lifetime. The Berlin giants were calling my name, and since they are regarded as near the apex of zoological wonders it would have been silly for me to drive within a few hours and then ignore them just so I could add on a whole bunch of small zoos in the Netherlands. I battled the traffic of Berlin and for the only time on this whole 32-night trip I had back-to-back nights in the same hotel. I found a place (via booking.com like usual) a 15-minute walk from Zoo Berlin, amidst the cacophony of noise that is dominant in the proud and famous city.
Zoo/Aquarium # 80: Berlin Zoo (Berlin, DE)
I loved my day at Berlin Zoo, the English-based appellation that I’m going with for this review. It’s a zoo that opened in 1844 and is famous, among other things, for the size of its animal collection and the ongoing popularity of the attraction. Well over 3 million visitors enter the famous gates each and every year, making it the most popular zoo in all of Europe. From the zoo’s birth as the oldest in Germany, through its survival of two World Wars, to the renaissance of worldwide popularity thanks to Knut the Polar Bear (now sadly deceased) to the recent reconstruction of new exhibits, Berlin is a magnificent zoo that is steeped in history and yet filled with modern touches. Many of you are extremely curious to know my overall feelings, and so I’ll get it out of the way right here and now. Berlin is the 3rd best zoo I’ve ever toured, after only San Diego and Omaha. It really is that impressive, and while I enjoyed Berlin Tierpark a great deal, it pales in comparison to Berlin Zoo.
The zoo’s map states that there are “more than 20,000 animals from around 1,250 species spread across 33 hectares” and the sheer scale of the place can be daunting. Perhaps only the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago has as many species in its animal collection as Berlin, but the German zoo has a comprehensive animal collection spread over more than 80 acres and it takes all day to see. I enjoy all types of zoos, whether they be small and specific in terms of geographical location (Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum in the USA or Alice Springs Desert Park in the Outback of Australia), or specific in a focus on a type of animal (Apenheul), but when it comes to talking about the 'best of the best' then it seems 90% of people on ZooChat would agree that the zoos in that category are the big, full-day establishments such as Berlin, San Diego, Bronx, Omaha, Prague and, for better or worse, Pairi Daiza. A zoo that takes up a whole day is a place where one gets value for money and can see an immense number of animals...in many ways the whole point of a great zoo.
Berlin Zoo has an absolutely stunning Aquarium, originally built in 1913 and that was where I began my day. After the crushing Aquarium crowds at rain-soaked Hagenbeck the day before, I wanted to get a jump start ahead of everyone else and I was one of the few visitors in the Aquarium right after the zoo opened. This building, with the huge Iguanodon statue out front, is magnificent. The entire first floor is full of tanks, with 79 listed via the numbers on each exhibit. That is an astonishing amount for any aquarium, let alone a facility found within a zoo (with admission at an extra cost). There are many standard-sized fish tanks set in the wall with a dizzying array of species, plus a couple of floor-to-ceiling shark tanks, and the spectacular Amazon section with Arapaima and other big fish, and the quantity is there as well as the quality. If someone has a hankering to see some jellyfish, the zoo has South Atlantic Jellyfish, Moon Jellyfish, Cannonball Jellyfish, Palau Jellyfish, Marble Jellyfish and Mediterranean Jellyfish. There are so many aquatic delights that having almost 80 tanks could be a good chunk of the day for a fish fanatic. I particularly enjoyed how the tanks were split up into geographical areas (Northern Europe, North America, Amazon) and other notable species that caught my eye were Bonnethead Shark, Small-spotted Catshark, Blacktip Reef Shark, Nurse Shark, Epaulette Shark, Ornate Wobbegong, Pearse’s Mudskipper, Electric Eel and South American Lungfish. The number of species of small, colourful reef fish is bewildering and there must be at least 5 eel species.
The Aquarium building then has a whole second floor of fantastical creatures. The zoo, it should be pointed out, is aware that at some point in time it was in danger of becoming a bit outdated in terms of the quality of exhibits around the grounds. There has been a lot of progress in revamping several areas at both the Zoo and Tierpark, with little signs that say “we are modernizing the zoo” in a few areas. Therefore, an explicit acceptance of some outdated areas has been admitted and Berlin Zoo has undergone a lot of changes in the past decade. I’ve seen old photos of the second floor of the Aquarium and the reptile displays were extremely basic in presentation style. A few years ago, the entire second floor of the building was transformed over the time frame of a full 12 months, and it reopened in 2016. The facility joined the modern world of herpetological displays and what is there now is modern, refreshing and a joy to behold. The middle section, which covers two levels, has a pair of steamy, humid crocodilian tanks (Gharial and Spectacled Caiman) and then there are essentially two hallways. One of them has 15 exhibits for desert species, all set in an arid environment with lots of sand and beige tones. The second hallway has exactly 17 jungle/tropical exhibits, with a lot of green shades. Add in the two crocodilian habitats in the middle and there are 34 exhibits in total.
Species list for the entire second floor (58 species): Gharial, Spectacled Caiman, Smooth-fronted Caiman, Burmese Python, Savu Python, Green Tree Python, Woma Python, Rainbow Boa, Puerto Rican Boa, Boa Constrictor, Cave-dwelling Ratsnake, Red-tailed Green Ratsnake, Honduran Milksnake, Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, Trans-pecos Copperhead, Tuatara, Merten’s Water Monitor, Blue Spotted Tree Monitor (not even scientifically described until 2001), Black Tree Monitor, Fiji Banded Iguana, Rhinoceros Iguana, Green Iguana, Madagascar Spiny-tailed Iguana, Caiman Lizard, East African Spiny-tailed Lizard, Ornate Spiny-tailed Lizard, Omani Spiny-tailed Lizard, Blue Spiny Lizard, Blue Rock Lizard, Beaded Lizard, Gila Monster, Frill-necked Lizard, Standing’s Day Gecko, Bosc’s Fringe-toed Lizard, Short-tailed Horned Lizard, Hispaniolan Curlytail Lizard, Roughtail Rock Agama, Black Agama, Martinique Anole, Green Keel-bellied Lizard, Panther Chameleon, Giant Plated Lizard, Four-striped Plated Lizard, Bearded Dragon, Solomon Islands Skink, Blue-tongued Skink, Cunningham’s Skink, Australian Water Dragon, Green Basilisk, Red-footed Tortoise, Spider Tortoise, Radiated Tortoise, Hilaire’s Side-necked Turtle, Yellow-spotted Amazon River Turtle, Snake-necked Turtle, Red-bellied Short-necked Turtle, Bornean River Turtle and Pig-nosed Turtle.
There is still another floor to go, with a room full of amphibians and what must be one of Europe’s most extensive invertebrate collections. There are exactly 30 exhibits in the amphibian zone, with 33 total species. In the invertebrate zone the zoo lists 35 exhibits (they are numbered) but technically there are 42 exhibits because some of the spaces have multiple vivariums in one area.
Species list for the third floor amphibian section (33 species): Hong Kong Whipped Frog, Siamese Frog, African Bullfrog, Amazon Milk Frog, Chinese Gliding Frog, Darkeared Frog, Borneo Eared Frog, Cuban Tree Frog, Red-eyed Tree Frog, Snouted Tree Frog, Green Tree Frog, White-lipped Tree Frog, Anthony’s Poison Arrow Frog, four species of Dyeing Poison Frog, Brazilian Poison Frog, Budget’s Frog, Brongersma’s Toad, Sabana Surinam Toad, Eastern Green Toad, Cane Toad, Yellow-bellied Toad, Oriental Fire-bellied Toad, Fire Salamander, Tiger Salamander, Chinese Warty Newt, Algerian Ribbed Newt, Kaiser’s Spotted Newt, Axolotl, Rio Cauca Caecilian and African Lungfish.
Species list for the third floor invertebrate section (51 species): Honey Bee, Giant Grasshopper, Giant Prickly Stick Insect, Red-striped Stick Insect, Sulawesi Stick Insect, Spiny Dragon Head, African Twig Mantis, Malayan Jungle Nymph, Giant Spiny Stick, Leaf Insect, Walking Bean, Leaf-cutter Ant, Black Weaver Ant, Giant Meal Beetle, Beckeri’s Giant Beetle, Taxicab Beetle, Derbyan’s Buffalo Beetle, Jade-headed Buffalo Beetle, Hologram Beetle, Emerald Flower Beetle, Cyan-blue Flower Beetle, Giant Flower Beetle, White-spot Assassin Bug, Peppered Roach, Warty Glowspot Cockroach, Madagascar Hissing Cockroach, Orange Head Cockroach, Halloween Hisser, Whip Spider, Southern Black Widow, Zebra Spider, Brazilian Salmon Tarantula, Brazilian Black Tarantula, Trinidad Chevron Tarantula, Costa Rica Tiger-rump Tarantula, Chilean Rose Tarantula, Giant White-knee Tarantula, Deathstalker, Flat Rock Scorpion, Giant Whip Scorpion, Black Cameroon Train, Giant Millipede, Tanzania Green-banded Millipede, Hermit Crab, Giant Zanzibar Snail, Asian Apple Snail, Giant Tower Cap Snail, White Flame Snail, Crystal Bee Shrimp, Opossum Shrimp and Bamboo Shrimp.
So, to give a brief recap, the Aquarium building is a tremendously valuable piece of zoo architecture and a visitor must set aside a minimum of two hours or more just to properly see everything. With almost 80 tanks, the first floor has a staggering number of species, with many tanks holding multiple types of fish. The second floor has 34 exhibits and 58 species, with lots of mixed-species terrariums and this floor is essentially an excellent, modern Reptile House. Finally, visitors go up to the third floor, where there are 30 exhibits for amphibians and, in a separate area, 42 exhibits for invertebrates. The whole building has a whopping 185 exhibits and literally hundreds of species on display. Of note, is that I saw Cologne Zoo’s similar building, with its 170 exhibits, but Berlin ‘wins’ hands-down in terms of overall quality. The structure must be a candidate for the greatest zoo building on the planet in terms of quality and quantity, not to mention its 1913 origins which are of historical importance. Berlin’s Aquarium is phenomenal. One could arguably call it a day right then and there and there would be no complaints. But, oh wait, there’s another 80 acres to explore. Yikes!
The new Panda Garden complex is large (0.5 hectares/1.2 acres including visitor areas) for a pair of Giant Pandas, and the lineups were deep there all day long. The two outdoor yards are very nice indeed, although now that I’ve seen pandas at 7 zoos in my lifetime, the best outdoor area is still at the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and the best indoor area is Ouwehands in Rhenen, the Netherlands. This area is yet another part of the ‘modernization’ of the zoo, as it only just opened in 2017 and is already a significant highlight with many visitors flocking to that area throughout the day. I’m sure that many families would list the Panda Garden as the top attraction of the entire zoo, and while it’s nicely done, at the end of the day the whole thing is for a couple of slow-moving, sleepy bears. I am curious to know what was in Berlin Zoo before the arrival of the Panda Garden. Was it a long row of deer paddocks?
Birds at Berlin Zoo are a whole day out for bird fanatics. The upper left-hand corner of the zoo map lists the World of Birds and the Pheasantry, plus there are a tremendous number of aviaries all over that corner of this great zoo. Not being a big fan of small birds, as I’ve seen approximately 5 million of them in the past month, I gamely marched on through all of the various feathered regions of the zoo, and the World of Birds is yet another new part of Berlin Zoo. Just a few years ago, the structure was radically overhauled/built and there is still a series of aviaries in all directions, but these aviaries are light and airy and probably bird fans will think that they’ve died and gone to heaven. Are there any better Bird Houses at any zoos on the planet? I personally prefer the big, modern walk-through aviaries and there are two of those here inside World of Birds, although not really big enough to accommodate well over 3 million annual visitors. I counted 6 aviaries in the African section, 1 in the New Zealand area (a single darkened room for Northern Brown Kiwi – not seen by me), 7 aviaries in the Australian room, another 7 aviaries in the Asian room, and 15 in the South American section. That makes 36 aviaries, plus two walk-through areas. Apart from the all-indoor kiwi affair, the remaining 35 aviaries all have corresponding aviaries on the outside of the building and in truth this means that some birds cannot be easily seen as they flit back and forth between their aviaries. Nevertheless, here is another new part of Berlin Zoo that is, for the most part, a resounding success.
Near the amazing World of Birds is a whole series of aviaries. There is a walk-through Inca Tern exhibit with a wave machine that wants to lull people to sleep as the crashing waves soothe the mind and Inca Terns swiftly dart through the sky. Berlin is such a big zoo that this Inca Tern aviary doesn’t even make it onto the map, but don’t miss this slice of excellence. James’s, Lesser and Andean Flamingos are found around the corner, to go with Greater Flamingos and Chilean Flamingos elsewhere in the park. Is that it for flamingos? Only 5 flamingo species…come on Berlin! There is a Southern Cassowary exhibit hidden around a back loop, loads more aviaries in this part of the zoo, and the Pheasantry has 6 indoor aviaries with species such as Kagu (I saw 3 of them), Javan Pond Heron, Boat-billed Heron, Great Curassow, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Spotted Thick-knee, White-bellied Bustard, Bare-faced Go-away Bird, Malaysian Fireback, Grey Peacock-pheasant, Blue-throated Piping Guan, Greater Roadrunner, Little Bittern, Asian Pied Starling, Blue Magpie and many more.
One delightful section of the zoo that also has a number of bird species is Eagle Canyon, which from 2015 to 2018 saw a three-year renovation of the whole area. I saw species such as Eurasian Griffon Vulture, Hooded Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, White-headed Vulture, Palm-nut Vulture, King Vulture, Bearded Vulture, Southern Ground Hornbill, Bateleur Eagle (a few feet from my face in the walk-through aviary), Golden Eagle, Spectacled Owl, Snowy Owl, Great Grey Owl, Southern Crested Caracara and White-necked Raven. Years ago, there was apparently 65 aviaries in this part of the zoo, all cramped and old-fashioned. Now, as in so many other areas, Berlin Zoo has joined the modern world. It’s a terrific area for birds of prey and nearby is the famous Swine House and pig-like creatures in the vicinity include Bornean Bearded Pig (the last one in Europe?), Visayan Warty Pig, Babirusa, White-lipped Peccary and Vietnamese Pot-bellied Pig.
The Antelope House has a magnificent appearance, almost impossible to describe to somehow other than to say it is architecturally stunning, and currently there is a historical exhibition that showcases the history of this famous zoo in a series of large signs that are partly in English. I must applaud the zoo for embracing its history, good or bad, as there is mention of “exotic humans” on display and that “by 1952, at least 25 ‘exotic’ groups had been exhibited at the Berlin Zoo. The expected revenue was a major incentive for the fair organizers and the zoo. The shows drew a record number of visitors, even outside the regular season." For those of us that own at least one Berlin Zoo history book, the acknowledgement of humans on display is powerful. Inside the Antelope House are stalls for Defassa Waterbuck, Southern Gerenuk, Sitatunga, Kafue Lechwe, Giraffes (there are only two) and Northern Ground Hornbill. Outdoor paddocks surround the iconic Antelope House and hopefully this structure is left untouched by modern flourishes as it is tremendous.
The Primate House is a very large building, and typical of European zoos it is possible to go inside and see all of the holding quarters for the various primates. However, visitors need to walk around the entire building, as there are primate outdoor yards on both sides, and it would be easy to miss something without a full loop. The species list contains 21 primate species + 3 more mammal species: Lowland Gorilla, Sumatran Orangutan, Chimpanzee, Bonobo, Siamang, Mandrill, Weeper Capuchin, Brown-headed Spider Monkey, Black Howler Monkey, Owl-faced Monkey, Toque Macaque, Japanese Macaque, Hanuman Langur, Red Titi, Silvered Leaf Monkey, Squirrel Monkey, Goeldi’s Monkey, Cotton-top Tamarin, Emperor Tamarin, Black-mantled Tamarin, White-fronted Marmoset, Prevost’s Squirrel, Linne’s Two-toed Sloth and Southern Three-banded Armadillo. To have 21 primate species, including several rarities, living in a single zoo building is nothing short of astonishing, and how many zoos can say that? There is even an outdoor yard for ‘Fatou’, a geriatric female Lowland Gorilla that has been at Berlin Zoo since 1959, and possibly born in 1957, making her the oldest gorilla in Europe and she’s lived alone for almost a decade because the original troop rejected her. Some of the indoor accommodation in the Primate House is excellent, with thick mulch on the ground, and a few of the outdoor yards are equally excellent, but I do feel that the Bonobo cage is disappointing (especially when I’ve seen that species blossom elsewhere), and a few others (for example, the Siamangs) could do with larger exhibits. Overall though, combining the quality of many of the enclosures with the amazing number of species on display, the Primate House is a lovely way to spend a significant amount of time at the zoo. Across from this area is a big, mock-rock exhibit for a huge troop of Hamadryas Baboons (much better than most baboon ‘blobs’) and smaller, satellite exhibits for Lion-tailed Macaques, Cape Porcupines, Brush-tailed Porcupines and that ubiquitous zoo animal known as the Meerkat. It is easy enough to walk around a few acres of the Berlin Zoo and all in one area see 23 primate species plus a few other animals. That is, in many ways, breathtaking.
The Rhino House is a shadow of its former self and that’s probably a good thing. All of the rhinos are long gone and all that is left are species such as Baird’s Tapir (rare in Europe), Lowland Tapir, Dromedary, Alpaca and various domestics. There are big signs everywhere promoting the fact that the zoo is going to build an entirely new Rhino House on the current footprint and thus that section of the zoo will be modernized and likely become a popular area because right next door is the Hippo House. There are Common Hippos inside an impressive dome, with underwater viewing and Nyalas in their incredibly green and lush outdoor yard. Maybe the hippos don’t go out there very often? Pygmy Hippos are at the other side of the house, again with underwater viewing and a nice outdoor exhibit, and a Lowland Anoa exhibit is just around the corner.
Bears at the zoo are represented in a series of exhibits that reminded me of bigger, better versions of Philadelphia Zoo’s Bear Country. There are currently three exhibits in a row for Sloth Bears, one larger enclosure with a huge pool for Polar Bears, some ‘Polar’ Wolves in a nicely landscaped exhibit, and an Asiatic Black Bear in the final enclosure. African Wild Dogs have a spacious yard that is looked down upon with what appears to be minimal barriers directly across from the wolves.
An area labeled as Penguin World has a California Sea Lion exhibit with a wave machine (although not on the same scale as Hannover’s ‘Yukon Bay’) and the pinnipeds are a joy to watch and I lingered there longer than expected. African Penguins have a standard-sized exhibit, then there are Humboldt Penguins in their own pool, plus King and Rockhopper Penguins in a third, all-indoor penguin exhibit. Having a trio of penguin enclosures all close together is pure Berlin. European Beavers and Coatis aren’t too far away, and a little down the path is a very impressive Andean Condor aviary with clear sightlines of the birds. South African Fur Seals have a sign, but their exhibit appears to be empty, although Small-clawed Otters have a typical enclosure nearby.
There is a very effective section of mountainous exhibits for the likes of Sichuan Takin, Himalayan Tahr and Alpine Ibex, with shades of Hagenbeck as there is a sloping pathway up the cliff-side and these exhibits all stand the test of time. I think that I ‘only’ saw 95% of the zoo, as even though I used a pen to outline a pathway each time I walked down it, I think that there were/are marmot exhibits in this zone. I didn’t see any, but missing a couple of marmot enclosures is easily done in a zoo of this size. One area that does not meet the modern age is the Elephant House, with its tiny, sterile bull yard with traditional sight-lines of cement and deep moats. The cow yard is naturally larger, but again the zoo could do much better with their elephants. The old barn isn’t aesthetically pleasing, the floors are all cement with little natural substrate, and the entire elephant complex is one that I’d ensure is a major project for the future if I were Zoo Director. There are many little lakes all over the zoo, and so filling in the flamingo/waterfowl lake directly next to the elephants (and to the left of the Primate House) would allow the zoo to possibly double the size of the current elephant exhibit. That could be one option, or maybe only having elephants at the Berlin Tierpark, with its 160 hectares/400 acres of space, is a better solution to seeing elephants in cramped, outdated conditions at the main zoo. If such an exhibit existed in North America, then there would be monthly protests until it was changed for the better. Some readers might think that the current elephant area at Berlin Zoo is adequate, but how is that the standard for one of the world’s truly great zoological gardens? Adequate or mediocre are not terms to use when discussing the Elephant House, but ‘superlative’ should be the long-term goal. A possible placement for a brand-new, modern Asian Elephant exhibit at the zoo would be the slightly separate set of 6 enclosures in the upper right-hand corner of the zoo map (more on those later). That entire area could be turned over to elephants, with some satellite exhibits, and that would get more visitors over there and ease any possible congestion elsewhere in the zoo.
As can be determined from this lengthy review, Berlin Zoo follows a taxonomic approach all across the zoo. Primates all together in one area, birds in another, bears in a series of enclosures, larger animals each with their own separate ‘houses’, carnivores in a currently-closed building and even many hoofstock paddocks all in a row. In the center, and moving towards the right-hand side of the zoo, are exhibits for American Bison, Wisent, Domestic Water Buffalo, Forest Buffalo, Gaur, European Forest Reindeer, Mesopotamian Fallow Deer, Ankole, Black Rhino, Common Eland, Bongo, Okapi, Scimitar-horned Oryx, Sable Antelope, Gemsbok, Grevy’s Zebra, Plains Zebra and Giant Anteater. The zoo’s Zebra House is a big, imposing white building with a little veranda at the top that holds flower pots and other adornments. A sign states that the structure was completed in 1910 and it is “among the best-preserved examples of the zoo’s original buildings, as it was one of the few to sustain only minor damage during the Second World War”.
In the top, right-hand side of the zoo is a separate area with a single big loop around 6 exhibits. It’s a pleasant and yet fairly dull part of the zoo and by crossing a bridge it seems odd to tour an area that in some ways doesn’t feel a part of the rest of the facility. (Hence my proposal to build a new elephant exhibit in the area) Nevertheless, the exhibit quality is high because there are essentially 6 spacious yards. The first is an African Savanna-type enclosure for Blesbok, Springbok, Greater Kudu, Ostrich and Helmeted Guineafowl. Then there is a yard for Parma Wallabies and Emus, followed by a Przewalski’s Horse/Shetland Pony exhibit and there’s a couple of species that I’ve never seen together before! Barasingha have their own yard, Red Kangaroos have an enclosure, and a South American pampas scene unfolds as the final exhibit and the species there are the following: Vicuna, Mara, Capybara, Greater Rhea, Southern Screamer and Coscoroba Swan. This section of the zoo is okay but obviously it features a range of exhibits that are not something to get many people excited about and I found this zone to be the quietest section of the entire park.
Even with 4 outdoor enclosures around the zoo all empty (possibly all for hoofstock), and the two paddocks by the Rhino House also empty, and the entire Carnivore House/Nocturnal House and surrounding area under refurbishment (probably 2-3 acres of land and 40 species), it still took me a full 8 hours even with all of those closures. If everything had been open then I would have not have been able to see the entire zoo in one day. In a weird twist of fate, the massive Carnivore House at Berlin Tierpark (where I was the next day) was also under construction and off-limits, meaning that I went around two of the world’s most famous zoos and scarcely saw any big cats. In a small way it was a blessing that at both zoos there was a massive area closed down to the public, because I spent 8 hours at each location and I was walking, walking, walking…until I turned into a zombie late in the afternoon at the Tierpark. But that’s a story for another day.
So where does Berlin Zoo fit in the grand scheme of things in terms of world zoo rankings? Kudos must go to the fact that Berlin, more so than any zoo on the planet, truly attempts to showcase the entire animal kingdom. An extensive aquarium section, a second-floor Reptile House, a tremendous array of amphibians and insects, and all of that is enclosed within a stunning building. There is a vast Carnivore House and Nocturnal House (currently closed), elephants, rhinos, two hippo species, giraffes, plenty of ungulates, 4 bear species, 23 primate species, hundreds of types of birds, with classic buildings and zoo nerd rarities all over the place. What more could anyone want from a zoo?
I’m an ‘exhibits guy’ and I’m glad that I saw Berlin now and not in the past. With numerous signs saying that “we are modernizing the zoo” that means there is an implied acceptance that Berlin Zoo was not modern and updated to high standards in the past. Some of the criticism leveled at this famous old institution must have had an effect, because the entire World of Birds building has been overhauled/rebuilt from top-to-bottom, and the entire floor of the Aquarium building (the reptile area) was closed for a year and dramatically renovated. Eagle Canyon was completely changed over a three-year period, the Panda Garden was built at an enormous cost, the bear exhibits were altered significantly, and now both the Carnivore House and the Rhino House are going to undergo dramatic transformations. The Rhino House, if I’m not mistaken, is going to be completely demolished and, at some point, the zoo is going to need to do something about its elephants. The numerous recent changes at Berlin Zoo have resulted in a major reduction in the number of overall species, but the exhibits are now great enough to meet the approval of someone who analyzes zoo exhibits for a hobby.
The Berlin Zoo that I saw on a bright summer day was superb. The range of species is astonishing, and I can see why it is easily a two-day zoo. Often zoo nerds find that repeat visits to large zoos are faster due to the familiarity of a second visit, but I walked my shoes into the dust and had two blisters on each heel to deal with that night, and I still struggled to see it all in 8 hours with some sections closed down. The next time I come to Berlin, with a brand-new Carnivore House and a brand-new Rhino House, and whatever else is built, I will likely make it a two-day zoo. Maybe a day and a half at Berlin Zoo and a day and a half at Berlin Tierpark to ease the visits and do the two behemoths over 3 days combined. With the surprisingly high quality of the exhibits, the immense animal collection, and the ‘aura’ that the zoo projects, it is easy for me to declare Berlin as the #3 zoo that I’ve ever visited. I can’t wait to return.
More a complex of deer paddocks than a single row, but you are broadly-speaking correct.
I do hope you failed to mention the Manucode purely through forgetfulness and not the species having been lost
Not quite; there's one or two geriatrics at London too.
A little more than a decade ago I believe it contained a few big South American oddities such as Pampas Deer; even at the time of my first visit in 2014 it contained Japanese Serow.
Sounds about right
my first visits took 1.5 and 2 days apiece.
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I find it interesting you have not so much love for Antwerp or for Amsterdam, but when at once such a zoo doubles their collection it becomes the top zoo of your trip 
As we briefly touched upon in Arnhem, I do not think that is the whole point of a great zoo.... It makes more sense to me to judge whether a zoo is great depending on its goals and potential.
For an exhibit guy you are surprisingly mild about a primate house in which many inhabitants have small and quite boring enclosures. Even with some species reduced it is an outdated building as it stands...
That is exactly where the Elephants will go to the extension area at the top of the zoo.
I would not say that the world of birds sets particularly high standards, nor will the new carnivore house do that. Diversity will still trump most other arguments. In many ways there is nothing wrong with such old-fashioned houses, but the bird house is not exactly very ambitious, just a slightly modern revamp of an old idea, without anything novel except mock rock. Don't get me wrong, there is a lot to love about Berlin (antelope house, aquarium to name some) and it is a zoo that I always like to visit again, but in terms of excellent/innovative exhibits it is a rather dull zoo in general. The historic setting and the sheer size sets it apart, but personally I would rather have a few excellent exhibits than just large amounts of ok to good exhibits in a zoo. Knowledge about keeping animals will continue to increase and I feel that Berlin is building enclosures with the insights of some time ago, making them more quickly outdated on the longer term...
As we briefly touched upon in Arnhem, I do not think that is the whole point of a great zoo.... It makes more sense to me to judge whether a zoo is great depending on its goals and potential.
For an exhibit guy you are surprisingly mild about a primate house in which many inhabitants have small and quite boring enclosures. Even with some species reduced it is an outdated building as it stands...
That is exactly where the Elephants will go to the extension area at the top of the zoo.
I would not say that the world of birds sets particularly high standards, nor will the new carnivore house do that. Diversity will still trump most other arguments. In many ways there is nothing wrong with such old-fashioned houses, but the bird house is not exactly very ambitious, just a slightly modern revamp of an old idea, without anything novel except mock rock. Don't get me wrong, there is a lot to love about Berlin (antelope house, aquarium to name some) and it is a zoo that I always like to visit again, but in terms of excellent/innovative exhibits it is a rather dull zoo in general. The historic setting and the sheer size sets it apart, but personally I would rather have a few excellent exhibits than just large amounts of ok to good exhibits in a zoo. Knowledge about keeping animals will continue to increase and I feel that Berlin is building enclosures with the insights of some time ago, making them more quickly outdated on the longer term...
And I forgot Vince and Gordon the gophers, as well as Secret Squirrel and Guinea Pig.
Thanks for answering @TeaLovingDave and I wonder how zoo nerds feel about losing a number of deer species in favour of a pair of Giant Pandas. Attendance-wise, with the zoo pushing towards 3.5 million annual visitors, it means that the pandas have obviously contributed to recent popularity. On a side note, no Pampas Deer or Japanese Serow anywhere these days.
I looked up my review for Artis, @lintworm , and I wrote "this has been an overwhelmingly positive review of Artis Royal Zoo, but I will definitely highlight some of the flaws of this legendary institution." I loved that zoo, with some poor exhibits noted, and I also really enjoyed my 5 hours at Antwerp but for whatever reason I did that zoo faster than many other zoo nerds. Both of those places are nowhere near Berlin for a variety of reasons, but I clearly had a ton of enthusiasm for both zoos when looking at my reviews.
I honestly had no idea that the plan was for the elephants to move into the extension area at the top of Berlin Zoo. It wasn't a brilliant suggestion of mine in so much as it was a logical suggestion. Has that actually been confirmed by the zoo? I couldn't find anything online. Is there a time-line for the project?
With your Berlin comments, @lintworm , don't forget that you even admitted to me, when we were at Burgers' Zoo together, that you are extremely harsh and critical when it comes to zoos. Once the new Carnivore House is done next year, then the Rhino House maybe the year after, then elephants...what would be left to really modernize? Perhaps the Primate House could have some updated sections? I'm fine with Berlin Zoo keeping all of its species because at 80 acres there is the space to be able to do things well without having to resort to shipping the larger mammals out to the Tiepark on the other side of the city. If Antwerp and Amsterdam have loads of big mammals on smaller sites, then Berlin can do it no problem.
I looked up my review for Artis, @lintworm , and I wrote "this has been an overwhelmingly positive review of Artis Royal Zoo, but I will definitely highlight some of the flaws of this legendary institution." I loved that zoo, with some poor exhibits noted, and I also really enjoyed my 5 hours at Antwerp but for whatever reason I did that zoo faster than many other zoo nerds. Both of those places are nowhere near Berlin for a variety of reasons, but I clearly had a ton of enthusiasm for both zoos when looking at my reviews.
I honestly had no idea that the plan was for the elephants to move into the extension area at the top of Berlin Zoo. It wasn't a brilliant suggestion of mine in so much as it was a logical suggestion. Has that actually been confirmed by the zoo? I couldn't find anything online. Is there a time-line for the project?
With your Berlin comments, @lintworm , don't forget that you even admitted to me, when we were at Burgers' Zoo together, that you are extremely harsh and critical when it comes to zoos. Once the new Carnivore House is done next year, then the Rhino House maybe the year after, then elephants...what would be left to really modernize? Perhaps the Primate House could have some updated sections? I'm fine with Berlin Zoo keeping all of its species because at 80 acres there is the space to be able to do things well without having to resort to shipping the larger mammals out to the Tiepark on the other side of the city. If Antwerp and Amsterdam have loads of big mammals on smaller sites, then Berlin can do it no problem.
I think what I meant is what you wrote here when comparing Planckendael, Blijdorp, Artis and Antwerp
In terms of type of zoo Zoo Berlin is very much like Artis & Antwerp, but it currently doesn't have an extremely shameful enclosure anymore, but still more than enough room for improvement.
I am indeed quite critical of many enclosures and that has two main reasons I think, which are outlined below.
I have an above average interest for a zoonerd in wildlife watching and I have been fortunate enough to see a diverse range of animals in the wild on 5 continents. I think that that gives a different perspective, as I will never again look to a Kea the same way since I saw one flying overhead on a mountain pass. Seeing animals in their natural environment also makes me more critical as it shows very clearly what animals in captivity lack. That is not necessarily a bad thing. But to take Berlins primate house. The complete lack of live trees and natural substrate, even in some outdoor enclosures, is shocking. As every primate, especially the smaller ones spend a lot of time foraging in trees and life trees are complex structures that cannot be replicated by a few ropes, partly because they are useless to foraging. Zoos like Apenheul, Gaiazoo, Burgers' to name a few have taken note and I find it much more rewarding to watch primates there than in the glass boxes in Berlin.... Alternatively ungulates running is something that is also too rare in zoos in my opinion, in places like Nuremberg or the safari parks they have this space and they will utilize it in times. The medium-sized often relative featureless sand paddocks in most of Zoo Berlin are unsuited to that.... If we would take away the historic houses, quite some of the hoofstock enclosures in the central part of the zoo would not look out of place in a developing country...
Additionally I have the feeling that zoos need to re-invent themselves continually if they are to remain relevant. That is partly because of societal pressures with regards to animal welfare, but also because zoos themselves want to keep their animals responsibly. That means thinking of original ways of showing animals, or at least give them spacious complex enviroments, fitting their needs. I think that in combination with the amount of resources a zoo has, one might expect more from some zoos then from others. This is also why I am so critical about Pairi Daiza as it has all the necessary resources to become fantastic, ahaving 0 bad enclosures. But for some reason, even with close to infinite resources, they consciously choose to exhibit a Javan leopard in a tiny cage without structure or privacy. For me that is a different level of flaw than a Leopard in a similar 40 year old cage in Eastern Europe. Do not get me wrong, both Pairi Daiza and Zoo Berlin are great zoos in their own right and I always love seeing them, but there is so much untapped potential and room for improvement...
This is part of the zoos masterplan and a link to that should be here on the forum. I am not aware of a timeline.
Some maps have been published already, which already show that especially the large spotted cats will get the short end of the stick....
Many of the recent renovations in Berlin have also been mainly composed of putting copious amounts of mock rock on places where they do not belong. For many people it will look more natural, but in essence little changes...
I really enjoyed seeing your perspective, @lintworm when we met in person and I can imagine that seeing animals in the wild would make it difficult to then see them in small, pitiful enclosures at some zoos. For myself, seeing primates high up in the trees and free-roaming at Apenheul makes it difficult for me to see the same species in smaller, crappier exhibits.
I stand by my comments in regards to preferring Planckendael and Blijdorp (and I'll also toss in Burgers) more than either Amsterdam or Antwerp. All 5 are great European zoos, for very different reasons, but I do prefer the first trio that I mentioned. I think that a zoo that mainly gets things right in combining history with modern touches is Cologne. However, Berlin takes things to a whole different level. That Aquarium building...my word it is glorious. That really, truly must be the 'best' zoo building on the planet. Even the rest of Berlin Zoo is for the most part all good, without a lot of stuff that I'd bulldoze. The elephants, rhinos and carnivores all getting new exhibits in the near future, plus the long list of things that been overhauled during the past decade, makes me see Berlin Zoo as being a progressive institution.
I was messaging a friend this morning and a zoo that sprung to mind was Brookfield in Chicago, Illinois. That place is one that I visited in 2008 and I haven't been back since then as there hasn't been a great deal of major changes. When I pull up the Brookfield Zoo map online, I honestly feel that Brookfield is so far behind Berlin that it scarcely warrants a conversation. Brookfield has very few excellent exhibits (wolves, parts of Africa), but so many poor ones that the zoo's shelf-life as one of the best zoos in America has long been over. At least Berlin Zoo is building new things continuously, with a ton of new stuff in the past decade and lots of major, expensive projects on the horizon. That's why it's one of the biggest and best zoos on the planet, while Brookfield just sits there like an old doll that no one plays with any more. Berlin's Aquarium building and its three-levels is arguably better than the entire Brookfield zoo, let alone another 80 acres of Berlin Zoo outdoor animal exhibits.
I stand by my comments in regards to preferring Planckendael and Blijdorp (and I'll also toss in Burgers) more than either Amsterdam or Antwerp. All 5 are great European zoos, for very different reasons, but I do prefer the first trio that I mentioned. I think that a zoo that mainly gets things right in combining history with modern touches is Cologne. However, Berlin takes things to a whole different level. That Aquarium building...my word it is glorious. That really, truly must be the 'best' zoo building on the planet. Even the rest of Berlin Zoo is for the most part all good, without a lot of stuff that I'd bulldoze. The elephants, rhinos and carnivores all getting new exhibits in the near future, plus the long list of things that been overhauled during the past decade, makes me see Berlin Zoo as being a progressive institution.
I was messaging a friend this morning and a zoo that sprung to mind was Brookfield in Chicago, Illinois. That place is one that I visited in 2008 and I haven't been back since then as there hasn't been a great deal of major changes. When I pull up the Brookfield Zoo map online, I honestly feel that Brookfield is so far behind Berlin that it scarcely warrants a conversation. Brookfield has very few excellent exhibits (wolves, parts of Africa), but so many poor ones that the zoo's shelf-life as one of the best zoos in America has long been over. At least Berlin Zoo is building new things continuously, with a ton of new stuff in the past decade and lots of major, expensive projects on the horizon. That's why it's one of the biggest and best zoos on the planet, while Brookfield just sits there like an old doll that no one plays with any more. Berlin's Aquarium building and its three-levels is arguably better than the entire Brookfield zoo, let alone another 80 acres of Berlin Zoo outdoor animal exhibits.
FunkyGibbon
Well-Known Member
Thanks for a detailed and welcome reminder of what makes Zoo Berlin so special yet flawed.
One small point, was it really 2016 that the 2nd floor of the Aquarium reopened? I visited in the summer of 2015 and not only was it not closed at that point, but it also seemed up to the standard of the rest of the House.
One small point, was it really 2016 that the 2nd floor of the Aquarium reopened? I visited in the summer of 2015 and not only was it not closed at that point, but it also seemed up to the standard of the rest of the House.
From memory the second floor was more or less the same layout and exhibit quality in 2014 as it was in 2018.
FunkyGibbon
Well-Known Member
Well, that explains part of my confusion; it was closed for the entirety of 2016 and opened in December. As you will remember I didn't visit the Aquarium in 2017 so I haven't seen it in its 'new' configuration.
ANyhuis
Well-Known Member
My daughter would agree with you. For me it's a matter of what is "classic Disney" and what is "new Disney". Tower of Terror has been a part of the Disney parks since the 1980s, so to me, it's classic. But Disney has recently bought the Marvel Comics franchise, so it's "new Disney", and I personally have no interest in these comic book things.I think it's vaguely hypocritical to say that skipping rides or not liking them means one is missing out on the true "adventure" and everything that makes a place what it is, only to dismiss a given ride as stupidafter all, surely that ride is part of everything that makes the California park "Disney" and is part of the adventure!
As noted above, it really hasn't changed all that much barring decorative additions, truth be told - and the central crocodile hall is near identical. Methinks the above-linked article has more PR to it than solid grounding!
Tower of Terror opened in 2004.
ANyhuis
Well-Known Member
In my experience, when done right (such as at Disney's Animal Kingdom or Wildlands), when the rides and animals are properly mixed, they ENHANCE the animal experience, rather than "detract" from them. But PLEASE, don't use terms like "necessary evil", as the former Director of Antwerp Zoo once called zoos. There is nothing "evil" about zoos, nor is there anything "evil" about kids' play areas! I also strongly disagree with the term "sideshows". I'm more for a mix of animals and entertainment, as Disney and Wildlands have done quite well.
The big question would be whether the kids agree with you, or would they rather do the rides first, THEN go look at the various different animals. i personally take our 7-year-old foster girl to the zoo (usually the local zoo, but also on "zoo trips") once or twice per month. Almost every time, she begs to ride the carousel, the train, the sky ride, or even the mini-roller coaster, but she also loves seeing and petting the many different animals. I'll bet our 7-year-old knows more about all kinds of animals than 98% of other children her age. She is a living example of my favorite quote from Walt Disney, "I would rather entertain and hope that people learned something than educate people and hope they were entertained." Because the zoos first entertain her, my girl is then open to being educated. But if there was no entertainment there, she'd probably not be so excited to go to the zoo with me.
I personally don't want either of the "extremes", but rather a nice mix of great animal exhibits and a few exciting rides to help entertain, in the hope of eventually educating (as Walt said).
No, actually Tower of Terror opened at the Florida park in 1994, so I was wrong, but I was closer. Tower of Terror opened in California in 2004, in Tokyo in 2006, in Paris in 2007, which shows how internationally popular the ride has been.
Now, back to SnowLeopard's trip.............
We'll have to disagree on this point I'm afraid, I'd rather have prolonged views of animals rather than having my views compromised, or, in the case of 4D theatres, watch virtual animals.
I used the term "necessary evil" in relation to playgrounds only, I'd never use it to refer to zoos in general as, if that were the case, I wouldn't be on a forum for zoo enthusiasts... But I understand that kids need to let off steam and playgrounds are the perfect place to do it, therefore they are "necessary" to some visitors, they are "evil" (said tongue in cheek!
) because they take up potential animal exhibits.That's your prerogative as a travel guide writer, as a zoo enthusiast my opinion is different... Vive la difference.
My six year old daughter loves going anywhere with me, just because she's getting to spend time with me. As it happens daddy is quite happy to take her to the zoo and she loves it, it doesn't matter what attractions or sideshows (Sorry but what else can you call 4D theatres, mini golf, climbing walls and all the rest?) are there. She knows that zoos are where we go to (predominantly) see animals, if we go to the funfair then that's time for rides. I know some children won't be content with just animals but not all kids are the same, I think that's worth bearing in mind when portraying statements of opinion/circumstances as fact.
There's a reason this thread is a shoe-in for the coveted "Thread Of The Year" title and it's not just the zoo reviews, the discussions triggered are a big factor as well!