Tiergarten Nuremberg
Whereas Munich started off strong and remained largely consistent throughout, my visit to Nuremberg the following day went the exact opposite direction. Things got off to an inconvenient start that preceded a series of unfortunate events. You see, several years ago I started collecting magnets from every new zoo I visit, a way to commemorate each new addition to my life list. My goal is always to grab one that depicts an animal that has significance to the given zoo when available (red panda at Knoxville, olm at Zagreb, etc) and when my eyes gravitated towards the yellow-throated marten magnet it was an easy pick. That’s when I learned none of the gift shops took card and with no cash on me I had to settle for the lower quality offerings in the main restaurant. I still got a magnet so that in itself was easy enough to get over, but that misfortune ended up being dramatic foreshadowing for a much greater disappointment later on…
Not only did I not get my marten magnet; I didn't get the marten. Turns out the zoo literally just sent their lone individual to another facility for breeding purposes, like no later than several weeks prior. This is/was surely the greatest marten enclosure in all of Europe and with a smaller separation enclosure next door, I’m baffled as to why another marten wasn't just moved to Nuremberg instead of it being the other way around. I’ve seen enough zoos to where I’m never too bummed when a certain species or exhibit isn't visible. I’d be lying if I said this one didn't sting considering the notoriety of this particular enclosure.
Admittedly I picked a slightly unfortunate time to visit Nuremberg in general. The giraffe house is being renovated and the dolphin lagoon is undergoing maintenance work, so I had to settle watching the dolphins in the much older, smaller, less interesting stadium building. The famed Mediterranean mixed-species enclosure was out of commission with all of the inhabitants in hibernation. Plus a bulk of the bird collection was off-show due to bird flu concerns. Fair enough, but the policy was applied inconsistently. Emus and pelicans were still out in their open-topped enclosures, while the condors and owls were on-show in their aviaries. The walkthrough ibis aviary was open to visitors, but the gorgeous bearded vulture (and company) aviary was closed with all of the residents off-display… What's the logic there?
Yellow-throated Marten-less Exhibit, now Eurasian Lynx
Bearded Vulture (and others) Aviary
Mediterraneaum (6 species: ground squirrels, lizards, turtles, etc)
So while several major highlights weren't seen at their best during this visit, thankfully it wasn’t a bust, far from it actually. Because Nuremberg just has too many highlights for a few closed ones to dampen my spirit.
The Desert House was my most anticipated part of the zoo and immediately lived up to the hype. For those unfamiliar, this is an old hippo house that’s been transformed into a Saharan desert themed walkthrough with dung beetles as the stars. Though there were only a handful of beetles out and about so the fat sand rats ended up being the highlight. It’s amazing how well habituated they are to humans. I was crouching down to look into a burrow, then one jumped out and scurried right between my legs. It’s pretty remarkable that nobody's accidentally stepped on considering their boldness but it was absolutely delightful. The ornate mastigures and eye-dap lizards were busy huddled together on the rocks, once again close enough to touch, while a variety of small finches danced around the building This house encourages real exploration and makes it immensely satisfying to find each inhabitant. It’s a reminder of why exhibitry is so much more important in my eyes than collection. If these same species were in traditional small mammal/reptile house glass boxes I probably would have glossed over them entirely. Combining them all together in a “free-roaming” room creates a genuinely fun exhibit where several repeat visits were made. The late great Bill Conway would be proud...
Desert House Overview
Fat Sand Rat
Ornate Mastigure
With the dolphins stuck indoors, it was the adjacent marine mammal attraction that received all of my attention. The manatee house first felt like a better than usual butterfly house, complete with smaller birds and some springily active bats in an attractive setting. Then you look into the canals and the manatees emerge from overgrowth in spectacular fashion. At first the space looked a bit small -- though nothing compared to the absurdly small former accommodation in the tapir house -- until I found the underwater viewing pavilion which reveals a much better impression. It was somewhat amusing that many visitors ignored the manatees entirely and instead chose to gaze into the empty dolphin enclosure for some reason, more interested in the crystal clear blue water.
Manatee House
Blue Saloon (Underwater Viewing for the Marine Mammals)
Before the more recent investments into smaller things, hoofstock were the park's original bread and butter. Like Munich much of the grounds are filled with spacious ungulate paddocks of an immensely high quality. Across the path from the desert house are a pair of tastefully themed yards for addax and a rowdy herd of Somali wild ass. The equids were chasing each other around and their vocalizations echoed through the grounds. In that same area is a massive and gorgeous enclosure for Dybowski's sika deer that might just be my favorite deer exhibit of all time. Can't say why exactly, it had a real
je ne sais quoi about it, but it also happened to have a large herd of active animals which never hurts. Watching animals of any variety sprint through their yard at full speed is always satisfying.
Addax Exhibit
Dybowski's Sika Deer Exhibit
Other highlights in the ungulate department included the gorgeous sandstone ibex mountain, a cape buffalo and eland attempting to spar between the iron fence, and an amazingly well structured enclosure for mishmi takin and bharial. There was an adorable warty piglet munching on some grub with its parents right next to a full grown rhino. Observing this tiny little piglet completely unbothered next to a creature 100 times its size was a sight to behold. While they haven't been highlighted in more recent projects, Nuremberg still excels in this category and is one of if not the best hoofstock zoo I've seen in Europe, only rivaled by Prague. Munich's hoofstock yards are lovely, but Nuremberg's are much less uniform and feel individually tailored to their inhabitants' needs. The whole zoo feels like a walk through a forest preserve with these kinds of enclosures built into the forest. Pretty sure I actually missed a few yards as a result of being tucked so deep into the landscape.
Alpine Ibex Exhibit
Mishmi Takin and Bharial Exhibit
Cape buffalo and Common Eland post-sparring session
The gorilla house was a weird one. The main yard is fine by itself, even if the viewing is highly awkward, but there's also a series of small cages behind the building that might be out-of-use? Not sure but they certainly didn't look appropriate for great apes. Beyond the gorillas themselves this house also features a little bit of this and a little bit of that with an unfocused assortment of gibbons, macaws, fish, and amphibians in some not particularly notable exhibits. Certainly not the most inspired part of the grounds, though this muddled lineup did include the bizarrely cool Lake Patzcuaro salamander which was a new one.
Gorilla House
Lake Patzcuaro Salamander
To conclude, I want to circle back to one of the zoo's greatest strengths. Large carnivores are mostly well off (lion, tiger, polar bear) all in enclosures that make use of the signature sandstone cliffs. Super cool vistas that enhance the scenery greatly. I finally got to see an active maned wolf which was long overdue and the aquapark felt like a better version of Munich's similar exhibit complex. However, it's small carnivores that win out the biggest here. I already harped on the famous former marten/current lynx exhibit and won't whine about that swap any longer, as it's only one of about a half-dozen exceptional enclosures that continuously knocked my socks off. Small cats do exceptionally well with a massive hillside lynx enclosure and similarly spacious fishing cat exhibit near the large felines, apparently the largest in Europe. Although they weren't visible, striped polecats have a pair of sublime yards attached to the desert house that I adored. Near the entrance is a massive, hugely impressive meerkat/yellow mongoose exhibit that wowed me literally right out the gate. Once again, exhibitry > collection any day of the week. Take it to the bank!
Lion Exhibit
Eurasian Lynx Exhibit
Meerkat and Yellow Mongoose Exhibit
Maned Wolf
The fact that I enjoyed this zoo so much despite it not being in prime condition speaks volumes to just how good it is. While the fall weather didn't play to my advantage species-wise, it did make for a gorgeous setting, one so vast that for long stretches of time it felt like I had the place to myself. Mammals and large birds are done so very well, but ectotherms were noticeably lacking. I nearly missed the tiny reptile (plus mongoose/hornbill) building near the entrance and only ran through it just as it was closing, but there couldn't have been more than a dozen species in there and a zoo of this stature deserves better. I’m not yet set on where Nuremberg will place when I rank all of the (traditional) zoos at this thread's end, but no matter where it’ll land in my final ranking, it currently ranks at #1 when it comes to places I’m eager to revisit one day. Hopefully it’ll be a day where martens are once again running through their spacious enclosure, dolphins are swimming with sea lions in their outdoor pools, and bearded vultures are flying through their superb walkthrough aviary.