CGSwans flies north for the winter

Zoo #38: Copenhagen Zoo, 26/07/2017

I bet you didn't guess, when I wrote about The Blue Planet, that I'd be visiting Copenhagen Zoo next.

This is an odd one because though I very much enjoyed my afternoon, bleeding into early evening here, I think it's gone down a notch or two in my head in the couple of days since visiting. It's not that there's anything egregious here - indeed, the standard is more consistently good than at most zoos I've visited on this trip. It's solid. Dependable. But it's like Andy Murray playing at the Australian Open: you can back him in to make the final, but you don't really ever believe he's going to win it, do you? Copenhagen isn't going to win the Australian Open either.

The only really famous exhibit - or at least, that I'd heard stuff about - is the Arctic Ring. It's a beautiful exhibit. I spent a good amount of time watching the underside of a swimming polar bear in the tunnel, and it's a memorable experience. But is it as good an exhibit for a polar bear as it is for me, the viewer? It's a bit on the small side, is it not?

The same was true of the pair of brown bear exhibits further along the Nearctic section of the zoo behind Arctic Ring, though I did linger for a while at the bigger one. A keeper was doing a scatter feed, but rather than simply throw the food over the fence herself she went from visitor to visitor, handing out apples and pears to the kids and letting them throw them over the glass instead. A small gesture that will have greatly enhanced those visitors' experiences. Well, except for one woman, whose pear failed to clear the glass and ricocheted back, hitting her in the head. That greatly enhanced *my* visitor experience instead.

The same basic pattern repeated itself for most of the big mammal exhibits - and this is mostly a big mammal zoo. Elephants: good, but falls short of great. African savannah: good, but falls short of great. The cat exhibits are ok. The exhibit for harbour seals is basic but functional, and I had been thinking it had a rather large, oddly wooded land portion, only to be quite startled when a reindeer suddenly appeared. Not a mix I expected to see.

The worst of the big mammal exhibits was the wholly indoor affair for chimps: it's a long way off the worst chimp exhibit I've seen (I see you there, Ljubljana, letting your chimps down. You too, Kraków). But I don't like fully indoors exhibits for apes. I did think the primate house exhibits, though not much aesthetically, were quite good, with generous outdoor areas that the monkeys were actually using. There's a new group of baboons that are still settling in, so part of the indoor space is sealed off while they get comfortable.

Tassie devils are, obviously, not going to quite excite me like they do your average dasyurid-deprived non-Aussie. But I was very impressed by the complex of devil enclosures here. They're more open and exposed than Australian ones tend to be, sure, but they're big and offer lots of opportunities both for the devils to climb up and see out of the exhibit, and also to dig: one devil disappeared into a burrow that was clearly of its own making, and it actually shocked me a little to realise that I've never seen that before. I wonder why?

One thing that zoos can do for visitors that often gets overlooked, I think, is wifi. Not a big deal for locals but for tourists like me, a hotspot or two is invaluable, and I was taking advantage of one when I was approached by a man with a clipboard. Allan was a market researcher, and wanted my feedback on interactions with the staff at the zoo. I've done the same thankless task a couple of times myself, so I was happy enough to oblige, but I was conscious along the way that I was probably highlighting things that are rather different to most visitors, and warned that I was a 'zoo nerd' who might just skew his data a little.

'Zoo nerd'? Allan asked me to explain what I meant. See, he's only a part-time interviewer: he's also a freelance journalist, and the idea of a zoo nerd - of an adult who would spend six months traipsing around Europe trying to see all its significant zoos - piqued his interest. I told him that I'm by no means the nerdiest of zoo nerds: I'm not going to name names, of course, there will be no mention of Himalayan big cats, of storks, of mangabeys, tea-drinkers or any other species that might out-do me on the zoo nerd scale. Nevertheless, he was interested enough to take my email address with a view of potentially following up on this niche interest of ours. Who knows. We might be about to become famous.
 
A couple of days later I stood on the platform of Copenhagen central station. Just like I had in Antwerp, in Zurich, in Vienna, in Prague and in Wroclaw, there were trains just waiting to take me to Germany. Only problem was that the Schengen visa is only good for 90 days. I was up to 94.
 
I told him that I'm by no means the nerdiest of zoo nerds: I'm not going to name names, of course, there will be no mention of Himalayan big cats, of storks, of mangabeys, tea-drinkers or any other species that might out-do me on the zoo nerd scale.

You say that, but I rather suspect you have visited a lot more zoos than I have!
 
Well, except for one woman, whose pear failed to clear the glass and ricocheted back, hitting her in the head. That greatly enhanced *my* visitor experience instead.

...this is now the highlight of this - or possibly any other - thread. I'm the sort of person whose pear would fail to clear the wall, so I do empathise with the poor Danish woman; the fact that it bounced back and hit her on the noggin is a marvellous icing on the cake!
 
Zoo #39: Hagenbeck Zoo, Hamburg, 29/7/2017

Yes, yes, I made it to Germany. And in spite of my last post I am not, in truth, overstaying my visa. The 90 day Schengen visa is a pain in the proverbial: 90 days sounds like a long time, and I'm sure that for many people it's sufficient twice over. But when you want to really explore Europe as a whole, like I do, 90 days is nowhere near enough for an area that includes Germany, France, Italy, Spain, the Benelux, Scandinavia, Greece and most of Central Europe. Not even close.

However, I am deeply fortunate, of course, to come from a rich, democratic, Western country like Australia. And as a rich, democratic, Western country, Australia forged a number of bilateral visa agreements with other rich, democratic, Western countries in Europe after the Second World War. Some, like Italy, have since annulled the agreement signed with Australia but others, including Germany, Denmark and the Netherlands, never bothered. And because they were entered into before Schengen was but a twinkle in a Brussels Eurocrat's eye, they over-ride Schengen and remain in force.

Long story short: after I crossed from Sweden to Denmark, my 90 days - at least as far as Denmark was concerned - started over from scratch. And then when I crossed into Germany they did so again. I'm good for a while yet.

And so: Hamburg, arguably the next most historically significant zoo in Europe, after the founding three in Vienna, Paris and London. A disappointing zoo but an excellent day out, as my path collided with FunkyGibbon's, and instead of being disappointed separately we were disappointed together. FG's excellent company made up for the sub-par zoo.

I'm going to do my best to refrain from foreshadowing his own take on things, other than one thing he may otherwise fail to disclose. We were in the Eismeer, where some of the water is admittedly a touch opaque, when FG peered into one porthole and declared, after a good 15 seconds of scrutiny, that he couldn't make out what was in there at all. I'm not surprised: he was peering into a painted glass panel, with nothing behind it except concrete.

The Eismeer is a handy microcosm of Hamburg's best and worst features. For whatever reason it seems to be aquatic exhibits that this place gets most right: I loved the freezing cold, walk-in refrigerator for sub-Antarctic penguins: it's not drastically more aesthetically pleasing than most other such exhibits, but it overcomes their greatest flaw: you're not peering into a hermetically-sealed glass box. You can see the penguins without obstruction.

The pinniped pools here are also wonderful: big and deep and full of highly active animals. I've seen walruses before, at SeaWorld and Valencia, but never so many, and never so busy. They are wonderful creatures, like a hybrid between a dolphin and a naked mole rat. We lingered for a long time, though partly that's because my blood glucose was running on fumes, and I needed to sit and eat. Where Eismeer is a terrible, embarrassing failure is the polar bear exhibit. Tiny and featureless, it's incredible to think this historic exhibit was renovated only a decade ago and that this icy blast from the past was considered appropriate. In a zoo that's most notable for its history, this is an imitation antique.

The African panorama deserves protection on historic grounds, and it stands the test of time for three out of four exhibits. FG and I actually had to go and verify that we could walk between the enclosures, so well hidden were the paths from the main vantage point in front of the flamingoes. For them, the zebras and the goats it still works perfectly well, but it's small and inadequate for the lions. The trouble is, because that exhibit is a key component of an ensemble, the entire point of which is to have a big African carnivore in that exhibit, it really doesn't leave many options. My best suggestion is that it houses an elderly pair of lions that are happy to live out their sunset years without wanting to do too much.

I'm going to speed through the rest of the 'zoo' part of the zoo in staccato fashion, because there's not much to love, unfortunately. The primate collection is scanty, with the best being the big, busy outdoor mandrill cage. The orangutan exhibit has potential, and FG explained to me that it's supposed to open up in nice weather. That's cool, but I'd rather forego that feature, kick the cafe out and give the quite large troop use of the entire dome.

I was deeply unimpressed by what I found at the elephant enclosure. Three keepers were in the enclosure, working with three of the elephants in free contact, while the rest of the herd teetered on the edge of the dry moat, reaching out for morsels offered by visitors. I'm not against animal-visitor interaction, including feeding, but combined with the omnipresence of the keepers it clearly detracted from the animals' core business of being elephants, in an elephant herd. Worse, it looks dangerous, both for elephants and for keepers. There was an animal rights group setting up a protest outside the zoo when we arrived, and sometimes zoos make things just a bit too easy for them.

The rest of the zoo is really neither here nor there. The quite tiny bird house nevertheless netted me eight new passerines. Overhauling Vision for the challenge has felt like climbing Mount Everest without oxygen, but I can finally see the summit. I will say that the zoo's open spaces, with its manicured lawns, big lakes and free range mara and wallabies are lovely, and reminded me of the delight I felt in Antwerp.

FG and I had left the aquarium part to last. I don't think it's going to win many design awards, and the collection isn't particularly special, but it's a considerable step up from the tired, time-worn zoo outside. It has the biggest crocodile pool I've seen, ad with all due respect to Sekhmet I think it's a little wasted on two Nile crocs. It could easily house six or seven (assuming they found compatible individuals), and that might make for a great display that justifies the real estate the pool takes up. But failing that I'd like to see it repurposed. Perhaps take out the crocs, replace them with a couple of caimans and use the space for big Amazon fish instead? It might even be good for manatees.

There are some tasteful little reptile and amphibian terraria, that prompted me to babble to FG in too much detail about my hopes for returning to keeping once I'm home and have sorted out an apartment. And I liked the wire-fronted fruit bat cave because, rather than in spite of the rancid fruit odour: smell is an under-used sense for zoo exhibits, I think.

I'll step on FG's toes just enough to mention that he told me he's never been much one for aquaria. I needed to set this straight, and Hamburg came to the party. I was treated, for the second time in a week, to a big, gorgeous coral reef. The fish selection is less daring than at Blue Planet, but the stony corals - perhaps the truest reflection of an aquarist's artistry - were very impressive. Again we stayed for a long time, as I tried - but didn't quite succeed - in convincing FG that somebody with this tank in their home wouldn't need a TV. I'll watch Game of Thrones on an iPad if necessary (and indeed, for this one season it *is* necessary).

Hamburg might have helped me win FG over to the aquarium cause with its main ocean tank. We had bypassed a series of portholes into the tank, which were crowded with people, and I’d merely noted in passing that it appeared to have a damn tunnel on the other side. Happily, though, I was mistaken: it wasn’t a tunnel, but a full floor-to-ceiling curved window, which is by far my favourite view into a big tank. This one is modest, but gorgeously lit and carefully stocked. Between it and the reef tank Hamburg isn’t so much a medium-sized zoo with attached small aquarium, as it is small aquarium with attached medium-sized zoo.

I imagine I’ll be back this way one day, if only because Hamburg is such a transit hub, but there’d need to be some significant developments to the zoo before I bothered again, and that’s only reinforced by the €30 price for a combined zoo and aquarium ticket. €14 for the aquarium, though, might tempt me back for another look at a reef tank after my own heart.

In summary, a bad zoo, a good aquarium and great company. Two out of three ain’t bad.
 
A few points discussing my visit last year (where I met up with Animal, who is a Hamburg-resident and as such was able to give Helly and myself an interesting historical perspective on the collection) to compare and contrast with your feelings:

The orangutan exhibit has potential, and FG explained to me that it's supposed to open up in nice weather. That's cool, but I'd rather forego that feature, kick the cafe out and give the quite large troop use of the entire dome.

I was lucky enough to see this particular feature - it really was rather good-looking!

The Eismeer is a handy microcosm of Hamburg's best and worst features. For whatever reason it seems to be aquatic exhibits that this place gets most right: I loved the freezing cold, walk-in refrigerator for sub-Antarctic penguins: it's not drastically more aesthetically pleasing than most other such exhibits, but it overcomes their greatest flaw: you're not peering into a hermetically-sealed glass box. You can see the penguins without obstruction.

The pinniped pools here are also wonderful: big and deep and full of highly active animals. I've seen walruses before, at SeaWorld and Valencia, but never so many, and never so busy. They are wonderful creatures, like a hybrid between a dolphin and a naked mole rat. We lingered for a long time, though partly that's because my blood glucose was running on fumes, and I needed to sit and eat. Where Eismeer is a terrible, embarrassing failure is the polar bear exhibit. Tiny and featureless, it's incredible to think this historic exhibit was renovated only a decade ago and that this icy blast from the past was considered appropriate. In a zoo that's most notable for its history, this is an imitation antique.

The Eismeer was, by far, my favourite part of Hagenbeck as a whole - I was particularly taken by the pinniped pools and the seabird aviary myself.

Although the polar bear exhibit is certainly the worst part of the complex, I was given to understand that it is nonetheless a *lot* bigger than the exhibit it replaced, and somewhat larger in terms of pool-depth than it seems. I was told by Animal that one problem with this exhibit is that although the inhabitants have access to large portions of the surrounding artificial cliff face, they seldom ever bother and hence a good portion of the exhibit space is unused.

FG and I had left the aquarium part to last. I don't think it's going to win many design awards, and the collection isn't particularly special, but it's a considerable step up from the tired, time-worn zoo outside.

Funny enough, I felt the aquarium was something of a disappointment; it contained very out-of-date signage which in many cases indicated the presence of species which died off half a decade or more before the present, and which looked like it had been painted by schoolchildren, the exhibit design was (largely) unimpressive and overall it came across as a lot older and more out of date than one would expect from a building which has only existed since 2007.

Happily, though, I was mistaken: it wasn’t a tunnel, but a full floor-to-ceiling curved window, which is by far my favourite view into a big tank. This one is modest, but gorgeously lit and carefully stocked.

This, however, is the true highlight of the aquarium - and the only part which I thought was truly excellent.

In summary, a bad zoo, a good aquarium and great company. Two out of three ain’t bad.

My summary would have been closer to a middling zoo, a middling aquarium and great company - but given the historical significance of the collection and the insights I got about the history of the various exhibits and the behind-the-scenes issues which the modern day collection faces I am very glad I visited. You are, however, definitely correct that it is far too expensive for what it is..... in my opinion the only German zoo I have visited which is worse value for money is Hannover.
 
Although the polar bear exhibit is certainly the worst part of the complex, I was given to understand that it is nonetheless a *lot* bigger than the exhibit it replaced, and somewhat larger in terms of pool-depth than it seems. I was told by Animal that one problem with this exhibit is that although the inhabitants have access to large portions of the surrounding artificial cliff face, they seldom ever bother and hence a good portion of the exhibit space is unused.

It can be both an improvement on what it replaced and sub-standard for its own time, though. It is not a 21st century quality bear exhibit.

Funny enough, I felt the aquarium was something of a disappointment; it contained very out-of-date signage which in many cases indicated the presence of species which died off half a decade or more before the present, and which looked like it had been painted by schoolchildren, the exhibit design was (largely) unimpressive and overall it came across as a lot older and more out of date than one would expect from a building which has only existed since 2007.

Can't say I took much notice of the signage. I don't think it's something that I'd go out of my way for as a standalone aquarium, but because Hamburg is a transit hub I would certainly try for a 4 hour stopover that allowed me to go back whenever I am back in Germany. But then, I am a devoted lover of reef tanks and Hamburg's is superb.

I'm thinking about what I know of your travels. Have you ever been to one of the big behemoth aquaria?

You are, however, definitely correct that it is far too expensive for what it is..... in my opinion the only German zoo I have visited which is worse value for money is Hannover.

Interesting you should say that...
 
A few additions to Hagenbeck: there are more than two nile crocodiles on exhibit, the lions are elderly and large groups of Seba's short-tailed bats tend to have a certain smell. And no mention of the successful red-billed oxpecker husbandry or "ambitious" mixed species husbandry of beaded lizards and rattlesnakes?
 
It can be both an improvement on what it replaced and sub-standard for its own time, though. It is not a 21st century quality bear exhibit.

Oh, indeed - I just wouldn't go so far as to say it is a "terrible, embarrassing failure" nor that it makes Hagenbeck a *bad* zoo rather than a middling one.

I'm thinking about what I know of your travels. Have you ever been to one of the big behemoth aquaria?

I have not, as yet - the largest and best I have visited is The Deep here in the UK, which pales in comparison to the places you allude to. In terms of aquaria located within a larger zoo, the best I have seen would probably be the Zoo Berlin aquarium, the Wilhelma aquarium and the Innsbruck Alpenzoo aquarium, none of which are on anywhere near the scale you have seen.
 
A few additions to Hagenbeck: there are more than two nile crocodiles on exhibit, the lions are elderly and large groups of Seba's short-tailed bats tend to have a certain smell. And no mention of the successful red-billed oxpecker husbandry or "ambitious" mixed species husbandry of beaded lizards and rattlesnakes?

Obviously only spotted the two, but that's cool. One of the lions looked quite young to me. I didn't know enough about venomous husbandry to think to comment on it (that's your area of expertise, not mine. :) ) Or oxpecker husbandry, for that matter. We're not all intimately familiar with which passerines are easy to keep and which aren't, but congratulations to Hamburg if they're doing something special with oxpeckers.
 
(...) congratulations to Hamburg if they're doing something special with oxpeckers.
They are pretty much the last ones breeding them in Europe, and if I'm not mistaken you won't find this interesting species in any American institution either (except maybe SD Zoo?).
You didn't run into any of the iconic free-ranging muntjacs or maras either, did you?
 
Haven't the muntjacs been restricted to their exhibit shared with red-crowned cranes by now? (One of the exhibits between the petting zoo and the Eismeer) Given that the species has become illegal to breed in the EU, I seem to have heard they were meant to give up their free-ranging status and live in a smaller space to more easily prevent breeding (and to prevent this horrible, horrible invasive species from escaping into German nature, presumably). When I visited last summer, only the females were free-ranging, while the male(s) lived in the crane exhibit.

Oh, and by the way, there should also be free-ranging capybaras at least some of the time.
 
Zoo #40: Hanover Zoo, 30/07/2017

This one easily might not have happened. I booked my German train tickets long ago, to take advantage of early bird fares, and worked in a day in Hanover for two reasons. One is that it makes a handy base for another, rather more renowned collection nearby, and the other is that I essentially got my Hamburg to Hanover ticket for free. Deutsche Bahn allow you to schedule stopovers of up to 48 hours into a single ticket: I paid €39 to get from Copenhagen to Hanover, incorporating my stop in Hamburg along the way. A handy little trick that I’ve made use of no less than four times in the next few weeks.

So I was locked into being in Hanover on this day, but I still almost gave it a miss. I’m behind on my writing and need to set aside a day to catch up, and considered making it my day in Hanover. The zoo wasn’t one of my most eagerly anticipated ones, so it made a good candidate for a ritual sacrifice that might appease the god of zoo fatigue. FunkyGibbon had also suggested I wait until 4:30PM for what would he predicted would be an only mildly rushed walk through, with the benefit that it would only cost €9 instead of €25. I looked into that option, but unfortunately it only applies on weekdays.

I ultimately decided to go, though, in part because I’d had an awful night. My fleapit hostel was in the middle of Hamburg’s red light district (there was even a brothel in the basement), and it wasn’t the best place to try to sleep on a Saturday night, when you need to set an alarm for a train and can’t use your $80 ear plugs. I was tired, grumpy and could do wish some cheering up. And, lo and behold, Hanover delivered.

Funky was right that I *could* have gotten around here in 90 minutes. It’s got two key ingredients for a quick visit: a single, defined path and an emphasis on big mammals. Birds and reptiles are after-thoughts, and even small mammals are relatively scarce. But… I really enjoyed it, and I stayed twice as long.

I’ve often been asked, by zoo nerds and well-adjusted people alike, to explain what kind of zoo I like. It’s a difficult question, and the best, least elusive answer I have is that I like a zoo that knows what it’s trying to do and does it well. Some of the zoos I’ve loved most include Antwerp, Zurich, Dubbo, San Diego, Halls Gap and the now-lost Melbourne of 20 years ago. Try to find a common thread among those zoos, if you can. Then try for one between the Sumida, Osaka and Valencia aquaria too.

What they have in common, for me, is that they are well-realised, whatever it is they are trying to be. I would not want many zoos to try to be what Hanover is trying to be. It’s trying to be an easy half-day out for Hanoverian families. No more, no less. And there are some elements that I found problematic. But on the whole, I think Hanover is very good at being what Hanover seeks to be.

Rather than go chronologically through the visit I will get the problematic out of the way first. The Asian section – elephants, tigers, leopards, Hanuman langurs and red pandas – are mostly poor exhibits (red pandas being a firm exception), and in addition to that I have my standard objection to appropriating culture for the purpose of decoration. To say Hanover goes in for theming is to say Winnie the Pooh doesn’t mind hunny, and it’s laid on thicker than hunny at that. Asia’s elephants, tiger and langurs occupy an abandoned Disney temple, and it’s simply tone deaf.

Other than that, I actually think it’s done very well in the farmyard section, which I wasn’t interested in but had to pass through anyway on my way out. This must be one of the sharpest, most picture perfect exhibits of its type, and I was thrilled to see almost exclusively adult animals – adult cows, adult sheep, etc – in place of youngsters awaiting a fate best not explained to the happy children.

In the Zambezi and Yukon sections the theming was overwhelming to the point of distraction: everywhere you look there’s a broken down Landcruiser, a crane, oil barrels, a diver, a crashed plane, an abandoned gold mine. It’s too much, but I’m letting them off the hook for a couple of reasons. The theming in these two areas isn’t overtly exploitative: there is no special cultural or religious meaning attached to broken Landcruisers in Africa, and Canadian gold rush-era fortune seekers weren’t exactly a subaltern group either. It doesn’t make me angry.

The exhibit quality in these areas is inconsistent. The lion exhibit is pint sized, and I wonder if, like at Hamburg, the lions have been deprived for the sake of the view into the giraffes at the rear. If so, are these enclosures perhaps sacrificing too much for a sight line? The gorilla enclosure might as well be an empty paddock, and the entirely indoor orang-utan one rivalled the Hamburg brothel as far as dingy setting go.

Big hoofstock yards are pretty boring, let’s face it, but Hanover extracts maximum value from them with the boat ride. This was included in the price of admission (a delightful surprise: I wouldn’t have paid extra for it), and it takes the concept Singapore’s River Safari tried to do and gets it right. The boat is gently paced, and every exhibit you pass can also be viewed on foot so you’re not limited to a fleeting encounter. And the ducks that line the stream, weaving in and out between the boats, somehow naturalises an obviously artificial setting.

In some cases the quality is up there with the very best the zoo world has to offer. The mixed pinniped pool and wolf exhibit are great, the penguins less so, but of course I’m speaking about the polar bears. Arctic Ring was the polar bear exhibit I was supposed to be raving about this week, but it isn’t. Hanover is the best I’ve ever seen. The huge pools have full-depth underwater viewing for visitors and wild, turbulent water for the bears. It makes for a richer habitat, and for me the sound of the waves crashing into the side of the pool was more evocative than the silly crane hanging overhead. Not only that, but the bears have moderately generous, *complex* land spaces. There’s grass and rocks and shrubs and uneven terrain. These two exhibits were almost worth the price of admission on their own.

I wouldn’t want every zoo – or even many zoos – to try to be what Hanover tries to be. But I don’t mind that Hanover has. It’s not Zurich or Vienna or Prague, but it does a pretty good job of being Hanover. It’s a zoo that I’d very happily take my infant niece and nephew to, let them revel in the excess of the place and enjoy seeing all the big animals they might know from their picture books in one place. The talapoins and tamanduas can wait.
 
Tiny and featureless, it's incredible to think this historic exhibit was renovated only a decade ag

As you might know now, this historic exhibit was basically built again from scratch ;)

I'll step on FG's toes just enough to mention that he told me he's never been much one for aquaria. I needed to set this straight, and Hamburg came to the party. I was treated, for the second time in a week, to a big, gorgeous coral reef. The fish selection is less daring than at Blue Planet, but the stony corals - perhaps the truest reflection of an aquarist's artistry - were very impressive. Again we stayed for a long time, as I tried - but didn't quite succeed - in convincing FG that somebody with this tank in their home wouldn't need a TV. I'll watch Game of Thrones on an iPad if necessary (and indeed, for this one season it *is* necessary).

Wait until you make it till Burgers' Zoo's coral tank...

Antwerp, Zurich, Dubbo, San Diego, Halls Gap and the now-lost Melbourne of 20 years ago.

I am not even going to bother :p

In the Zambezi and Yukon sections the theming was overwhelming to the point of distraction: everywhere you look there’s a broken down Landcruiser, a crane, oil barrels, a diver, a crashed plane, an abandoned gold mine.

Imagine the surprise these people get when they go for the first time to Africa / NW America...
 
Yeah, with the exception of the walruses, a few birds and the Lialis burtonis Hamburg is pretty disappointing.
 
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