Enzo goes to Europe - 05/2025

The bus stop was very close to the Arc de Triomphe, but we had lunch at McDonald's before walking around. The four of us were starving and needed to eat something as soon as possible.

The first place we went after eating was a pop-up store selling souvenirs from Roland-Garros (my parents are mad fans of tennis). After my parents were done shopping, we went across the rotunda (there a tunnel which takes you across the street without risking you life) and we were already under Place Charles de Gaulle (where the Arc is located).

As we entered the square, we noticed a ceremony was happening on its center. It was something about World War One, but I didn't really understand what was going on.

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We crossed the rotunda again back to Champs-Elysées and we walked away from the Arc. The first store we actually entered (the Roland-Garros boutique was more like a kiosk) was a souvenir shop still close to Place Charles de Gaulle. There, I bought a music box that plays La Vie en Rose, by Edith Piaf (one of my favorite French singers).

We also entered another Galeries Lafayette and a nearby La Grande Récré, where I bought an ibex from Schleich and a kudu from Papo. However, as the sun began to set, we realized we needed to go on a faster face if we wanted to see everything.

The final stop of the day was the Jardin des Tuileries. However, I didn't go very far because I had to watch over my grandmother as my parents had a walk around the gardens. After leaving the Jardin, we headed back to the hotel. I didn't really want to go sightseeing at night so I stayed in our room with grandma.

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Tomorrow, I'll cover my visit to Jardin des Plantes, so stay tuned.
 

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Hello.

After a few weeks (I have been very busy lately), I am back to cover my trip to Jardin des Plantes.

We woke up early and took the subway to the Gare d'Austerlitz, which took around half an hour. After going up a few rows of stairs, we were finally right by the Jardin.

We entered through a gate nearby a McDonald's and the four of us went straight to the Menagèrie.

The Menagèrie is the world's third oldest still operating zoo, dating back to the early nineteenth century. The collection was greatly reduced during the Paris Commune, when many of its herbivorous residents were eaten by the angry peasants and voracious elites. Eating roast kangaroo or zebra wasn't unheard in 1871 Paris.

The gates are not as outstanding as I thought, but they still looked nice. The ticket prices were rather cheap in comparison to what I had seen in Ireland: thirteen euro and two free maps!

Surprisingly, a few minutes after my father and I entered the zoo, my mother and grandmother followed suit, instead of waiting outside and staring at the flowers (which granny is very fond of).

We took the left path and, as the two of us walked to the binturong and red panda exhibits, we saw our first animals: a small herd of gigantic gaur! They were actually one of the main reasons why I picked the Menagèrie instead of the zoo in Vincennes. Their two paddocks are rather small so I think phasing them out and giving their space to smaller bovids would be a great idea. I was pleased to see them anyway and even my dad was astonished by their sheer size.

Next were the two previously mentioned exhibits for binturong and red panda. The enclosures are interesting because instead of being lowered to ground level, you are very close to the "tree tops", where I saw sleeping binturongs (which were lifers for me) and active red pandas (which I had already seen in Dublin and at Fota Wildlife, but I still enjoyed seeing them because they granted me great pictures). Pretty cool.

The next two enclosures housed Australian animals: a big grassy paddock for Eastern gray kangaroos and a much smaller one for emus. Since emus are present at one of my locals, I didn't really care that much about said ratites, so we headed to the nearby walkthrough aviary (thought not before seeing the pygmy goats in the paddock next door, which definitely housed something bigger than its current inhabitants).

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The walkthrough aviary is old-fashioned but still big enough. It is also very aesthetically pleasing.

Species list:

1. Aix galericulata
2. Anas castanea
3. Anthropoides virgo
4. Asacornis scutulata (didn't see)
5. Burhinus oedicnemus
6. Ducula bicolor
7. Mergellus albellus (didn't see)
8. Nycticorax nycticorax (with chicks!)

Of the nine species signed, I saw seven, mostly because we ran low on time.

After leaving the aviary, we went to the close by West caucasian tur exhibit. This was my first ever wild goat species (if you don't count Barbary sheep) and, to my surprise, they looked a lot more like ibexes than I expected. Like their African cousins, they were also highly photogenic.

Their pen (as with many other ungulates at the Menagèrie) is on the smaller side and the rocky hills, despite being commonplace, were also a bit small to me. I won't extend my complaints any further, however, as the exhibit for Barbary sheep at my local zoo is horrid when it comes to climbing opportunities.

Further ahead is a very small moated exhibit for European sousliks, which were a surprise to me! Their enclosure is highly vegetated, so I thought seeing one would be challenging. However, I was proven wrong when one popped out as I came closer to the exhibit.

Next were the flamingos. I had seen a bunch before so I took a few pictures and entered the vivarium.

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Species list:

1. Ambystoma dumerilii
2. Brachypelma smithii
3. Lasyodora parahybana
4. Theloderma corticale
5. Elaphe schrenckii
6. Phillobates terribilis (empty terrarium)
7. Rhynchophis boulengeri
8. Ctenotus marmoratus (didn't see)
9. Egernia striolata
10. Pseudopus apodus
11. Dendrobates leucomelas
12. Heteropteryx dilatata
13. Extatosoma tiaratum
14. Dendrobates azureus
15. Litoria caerulea (didn't see)
16. Lissachatina fulica
17. Spirostreptidae sp. ("iule géant")
18. Epipedobates tricolor
19. Lygodactylus williamsi
20. Scolopendridae sp.
21. Pandinus imperator
22. Daman variegatus
23. Broadleysaurus major
24. Corallus hortulanus
25. Bitis rhinoceros
26. Rhacodactylus leachianus
27. Homoeogryllus xanthopus
28. Pachnoda sinuata
29. Heloderma suspectum
30. Trachycephalus resinifictrix
31. Gonyosoma oxycephalum
32. Chalcides ocellatus
33. Morelia viridis

After adding plenty of new species to my life list, I left and went to the Tasmanian devil enclosures next door. Both exhibits were well-planted, but their inhabitants were asleep (almost no-shows, but thankfully one of the devils was visible in its den).

Then, the messy area full of cages for smaller animals (mostly birds and small primates).

Species list:

1. Goura sclateri
2. Leontopithecus rosalia
3. Pyrrhura cruentata
4. Saimiri boliviensis
5. Saguinus imperator
6. Callimico goeldi
7. Argusianus argus
8. Pyconotus jocosus (didn't see)
Lophura edwardsii
9. Tetrax tetrax (didn't see)
10. Psophia crepitans
Leucopsar rothschildi

Plus a few enclosures for Azara's agouti, Cuban hutia, Indian crested porcupine (didn't see) and yellow mongoose.

A few meters ahead, another new species awaited for me: the Central Chinese goral. They live in a rather large enclosure, especially when compared to their next-door neighbors: the somewhat larger markhor, which were also lifers.

Instead of going ahead, I turned right and saw blue cranes, a sleeping Visayan warty pig and, most important of all, dusky pademelons! I was almost forty years too late to see one in São Paulo, but lucky enough to watch a few in their grassy paddock in Paris.

After walking back to the markhor pen, the next animals we saw were blue sheep, which I had first heard of when playing Far Cry 4. Then, opposite to the bharal paddock was a small old-fashioned aviary for kea, another novelty to me. The cage looked worn down and it looked horrid, honestly.

Near the keas was the carnivore house, where we encountered my mother for a second time inside the Menagèrie. They were looking at a sleeping North Chinese leopard, as were the kids on one of the many school field trips we saw while inside.

Instead of walking around the Carnivore house, we turned left to see some birds. First was the cassowary, a species somewhat common in medium-sized and large Brazilian zoos, followed by a number of aviaries containing a diverse array of parrots opposite to a number of vultures.

My first ever Egyptian vulture was a nice surprise I didn't really expect to come across. The other raptors were king and palm-nut vultures. The last cage to the right contained Visayan tarictic hornbills.

To the left, red-crowned amazons, blue-and-yellow and great green macaws and palm cockatoos (didn't see) all in smaller aviaries. The birds here surely need better aviaries.

We walked back and saw another aviary, this time for three species: Asian houbara bustard (which was also photogenic), bush stone curlew and European turtle dove.

Then, we entered an indoor enclosure which housed my first ever tree-kangaroos! If any of you have seen my posts on the Australian and Brazilian forums, you definitely know my history researching the presence of the Dendrolagus genus in Brazil, so seeing one (actually two!) in person for the first time was a major delight of the trip. In the enclosure next door there were two large hairy armadillos, another new species.

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We left the tree-kangaroo enclosure and entered the cat pavillion, where visitors in the past saw large felines. However, as times progressed and zoos became aware of the special needs many larger animals have, these cages are now home to smaller carnivores. I mean, they still need major expansions and improvements, but knowing lions no longer live there is a relief to me.

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Inside the pavillion, there were four species, one of which (the yellow-throated marten, which I almost missed because it was asleep) was a lifer and two of which I had last seen on my trip to Portugal. All carnivores (marten, caracals, clouded leopard) but one (the North Chinese leopard, a new subspecies to me) was indoors. My photographs were not that great because the inside was a bit too dark for my camera to handle.

We left the Carnivore house and went to the large Malayan tapir exhibit nearby. This one has my seal of approval and it's definitely one of the best enclosures in the Menagèrie. The tapir, however, wasn't very polite, as it had its butt turned to the visitors.

Next was a small cage for a Cuban hutia and then a mixed forested exhibit for a Chinese muntjac and a demoiselle crane. They were followed by my first ever lowland anoas, which were both near their enclosure's wall, which was shared with Kirk's dik-diks. I thought the latter would be hard to see, but no, despite hiding in the grass, both were easily visible.

Then, my first ever Arabian oryx, which were another reason for me to pick the Menagèrie. The paddock was on the larger side when compared to the other enclosure and therefore felt way less crowded than the other ungulate paddocks.

Opposite to the oryx were the common rheas and vicuñas (another first to me), which shared a medium-sized paddock. We turned right and, despite seeing no Corsac foxes, I was amused with the L'Hoest's monkeys playing in an outside enclosure of the Primate House, which, fortunately, is being revamped into a much larger Bornean orangutan enclosure.

Inside the house, I saw white-naped mangabeys, the aforementioned Bornean orangutans and, another first, black-crested mangabeys. This means I was blessed with seeing the two species of Lophocebus mangabey present in captivity in a single trip!

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We left the Monkey house and went back to the Cat Pavillions, passing through an empty paddock for takhi. As we approached the carnivore exhibits, my dad and I were impressed to see the leopard looking at the horizon from the highest spot in its enclosure.

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One of our final stops was a row of six enclosures opposite to the oryx and vicugnas. The first one was home to Pallas' cats and the other five were aviaries (housing tawny frogmouths, snowy, spectacled, tawny and Ural owls). We then turned right and saw an emtpy (or so I thought) exhibit for red river hogs and a Sichuan takin. The last animals we saw before meeting up with my mother and grandmother were white-naped cranes and Aldabra giant tortoises.

We met up and at the kiosk right by the entrance. While I ate a crepe with nutella (which I had ordered in French!!!), my parents and my grandmother ate sandwiches. Since I finished my meal earlier than them, I used the spare time I had left to take a final look at some animals. I called my mother, who had finished her chicken sandwich, and we took a last glance of the Pallas' cat, which showed up. While on our way back to the gates, another takin and the red river hog both popped up.

Before we left for good, we decided to try seeing the Tasmanian devils for a second time. My parents stayed for a few minutes there, but they still failed because the marsupials were still asleep. I used the time they spent with the devils by reentering the vivarium, where thanks to a nice French guy, I was able to spot the New Caledonian giant gecko, which was camouflaged on a trunk right in front the glass window.

Heading to the gates, I entered the small-sized gift shop, where I bought a hyena (which I regret purchasing) and an okapi from Papo.

Outside, we headed to the Natural History Museum, though not before seeing the red-necked wallabies, which could only be seen from outside. Unfortunately, the NHM closes on Tuesdays and so, we left for the Sacred Heart Basilica.
 

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We took the train to Montmartre and walked upstreet until we were on the stairways leading to the world-famous church. However, because of my grandmother's mobility issues, we took the elevator.

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At the church, the line was very big, but we managed to enter the basilica very fast. Inside, we did our prayers (we're catholics, of course we're gonna pray), lit up a few candles (I lit one for Saint Anthony because being single for too long is not for me), walked around, took lots of pictures and bought presents in the souvenir store.

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Going back down, the ladies took the elevator while my dad and I went down Rue Foyatier à la John Wick. After reencountering my mother and my grandmother, we ate pretzels and some waffles at a nearby kiosk. Crossing the street, my parents entered a souvenir where, once again, they purchased many gifts for family friends and relatives. I just bought a khaki beret so I could match it with my trousers.

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As we walked by Pigalle (the French version of the Red Light District and a huge contrast to the nearby Montmartre), my mother made a discovery which would ease a lot our lives. The bus which stopped right in front of our hotel also stopped near where we were, so we headed to the closest stop. We were finally back at the hotel by dawn.

The next day was just the four of us waiting for our (delayed) flight at the Beauvais airport for more than ten hours. Back in Dublin, I was lucky enough to spot my first ever red fox on R's street!!!

The only other memorable thing I did in Paris that day was visiting the big La Grande Recrée near the hotel, where I bought a clouded leopard from Papo (I noticed Papo is the dominant brand in France when it comes to selling miniature animals).

The following day was not very interesting. We just walked in the city centre again and visited a few places we hadn't gone to yet, like inside Trinity College and the Dublin Castle. This was followed by dinner with K, another cousin of mine who lives in Ireland. He is the manager of the restaurant we met up at.

The only issue we came across was the huge traffic jam which caused my father to spend and hour driving my grandmother and my aunt to the meetup.

Before we all left, O and his parents (who were also there) gave me a very special gift: a book called Ireland's Garden Birds, which helped me identify many of the bird species I had seen during my time in Europe.

Friday was just very dull. My parents and I spent the morning just walking around the city centre again buying souvenirs. I was lucky enough to visit ToyMaster again and buy even more stuff (an African wild ass from Playmobil, an Eurasian badger and a honey badger from Mojo, as well as an impala from Papo) plus purchasing a reindeer from Schleich in a nearby shopping mall. We spent the rest of the day home because it was raining. The last thing I did in Ireland was playing Uno with my family Friday evening.

We just spent Saturday at two airports [Dublin and Lisbon (where I did my final purchase of the trip: a generic crocodile which needs paintwork)] and flew back to Brazil the same day.
 

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So, my final thoughts on Europe?

The longer I spent in Europe, the less I liked Brazil.

Almost everything you can think of is better there. I mean, plenty of exceptions exist, but the benefits outweigh the issues, in my humble opinion.

The weather was exceptional (and when I say excepction, I mean literally exceptional). Ireland is not known for being sunny (more like the opposite), but we were only affected by the rain on our final day.

The sunny days meant basically everybody was in a good mood. So, even a few people jokingly told me I had brought the Sun with myself. At these times, I felt like Helios carrying the solar star with his carriage, just like in God of War. The general lack of sunlight (which, once again, happened only on our last Friday there), is one of the few things I'd miss from my own country if I were to move to the Old World.

The greenery and urban planning alone make me want to move to Europe. The beautiful architecture is also very widespread, whereas poorer neighborhoods (or even entire cities) in Brazil look like Lagos, Nigeria. Surely the housing crisis is a discouraging factor, but I still think it would be worth it giving a shot.

The only place in Brazil where I'd say the transport system is better than anywhere in Europe is São Paulo, but it's because of the infrastructure, not because of how far the train and subway lines reach, because then it'd still pale in comparison to the extensive lines in Dublin and Paris.

European cuisine is not my cup of tea because I am a picky eater and, the food in Europe is way more expensive than it is in Brazil. Fruits and vegetables are also way cheaper and fresher here. The bananas in Dublin looked awful, as an example.

The experience of visiting three large zoos in two weeks made me want to change majors at college. I'll be taking ENEM again this year so I can actually become a biologist and work somewhere in Europe.

I think most important of all is the people. Europeans (and even migrants) in general were very nice to me. Speaking English, French and Spanish definitely helped me out a lot this time.

As someone who is likely on the autism spectrum, Europe in general was way more inclusive than Brazil currently. I felt people were more like me (less touchy, more direct and literal, etc.) and I definitely had a good time chatting up with everybody I'd meet.

+ Paris was beautiful. I expected the streets to be full of rats and trash, but that was not the case.

I'll be back, but hopefully as an actual citizen, not as a tourist.

The end.
 
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I wasn't aware Pallas' cats were back at the menagerie, it makes me want to pay a visit some time soon. My other favorite animals at the menagerie are the tree kangaroos and the yellow-throated marten.

I have been to the menagerie many times and it's amazing how little has changed over the years. As a kid I remember seeing a lion in the cats pavilion (this was around the year 2000).

The small vivarium is a nice piece of 1920s architecture, I find it charming.

I'm glad you had a good time in Europe and I hope your plans of moving here work out.
 
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