Location 93: Bunya Mountains National Park, South Burnett – 30th March 2024:
Target Species: Red-necked Wallaby, Black-striped Wallaby,
Heteronympha butterflies
Sitting 1100 metres above sea level on the Great Dividing Range and about 2.5 hours from Brisbane, the mist-covered chilly Bunya Mountains is a very special place and geographically unique. The range is the remains of a shield volcano which was built from numerous basalt lava flows about 23-24 million years ago. As Queensland’s second oldest national park declared in 1908 and the most western subtropical rainforest fragment in southern Queensland, the Bunya Mountains is the final western frontier for many species of wet forest endemics before reaching the dry and comparatively barren interior. The forest was largely protected from logging due to its inaccessibility and mountainous terrain, harbouring the largest expanse of statuesque bunya pines on the planet. These ancient pines are very distinctive trees and frame every vista in this rugged part of the world with their unique silhouette against the fog and mist. In summer, there are large green soccer ball-sized bunya cones with 50–100 ‘nuts’ surrounded by a thick, fleshy outer-casing that peppers the grassy slopes. These heavy cones crash to the forest floor where possums, melomys and other animals feast on the nuts and help disperse the seeds through the forest. With the potential of being fatal, these enormous cones can be dangerous if one hits you on the head, so never dawdle too long under a bunya… Apparently they are quite tasty as well. Within the national park, Dandabah is the most popular spot on the mountain. Surrounded by thick forest, the picnic area has electric barbecues, an abundance of colourful birdlife and is the entrance for short and long rainforest walks. The camping area, local natural history museum, small grocery store, restaurants and accommodation options are nearby. Leaving Brisbane at 4am, the drive up to the Bunyas was filled with wildlife highlights. In the township of Yarraman, I encountered my first ever wild flock of
Apostlebirds in the main open park in the centre of town along the route that led onto the highway. They were actively foraging in the early light and kept together with their series of interesting scolding calls. These often-fearless birds remained common in every strip of appropriately-sized roadside and park until I reached the bunyas. While they are only found in the western fringes within Brisbane, these cooperative breeders with a complex social hierarchy are found in more rural areas of south-east Queensland especially towards the west of the region. They are also one of two mud nesters –
Corcoracidae – in existence. Both species are endemic to Australia. Fascinating birds to watch.
Apostlebird
The ascent towards the Bunya Mountains can only be described as other-worldly. The mist and fog consumed the landscape with only the largest bunya pines remaining in view as tall figures of reassurance. The winding rainforest road revealed glimpses of large awkward columbids feeding on the roadside as movement that cut through the thick fog provided momentary glances of a single plump
Wonga Pigeon that shot up into the canopy and a trio of
Brown Cuckoo-Doves while reaching the final turn. An
Eastern Yellow Robin further made an appearance for a brief second along a thick grove. Like Lamington National Park, the wildlife of the Bunya Mountains is very present and visible. This area is most well-known for its wallabies. Mainly there are large populations of
Red-necked Wallabies everywhere. I immediately saw dozens and dozens of them grazing out in the open. They are fearless and habituated to humans, allowing for fantastic opportunities to observe them around the national parks. Black-striped and Swamp Wallabies are also found here but are shier and generally are seen near the grassy balds. I didn’t see any among all the red-necks.
Red-necked Wallaby
The bunya pines, which can grow to around 45-50 metres tall, were shelter for many species. The parrots were the most notable initially and it was quite an incredible sight to see hundreds of snowy white
Sulphur-crested Cockatoos sweep through the cloudy landscape and land in the pines. White against white. They were raucous and very present throughout the open space along with hordes of smaller but equally vocal
Satin Bowerbirds everywhere and the passing pair of
Galahs. It felt a tad odd to see these pink cockatoos here so close to rainforest but this largely reflects the westerly location of the site and the farmland that surrounds the national park. The bowerbirds were still retreating and elusive when approached as they darted into bushes but they fed alongside the wallabies in distant rolling hills. Mainly there were the brown-olivey females and immature birds but a few glossy blue-black males as well in the taller pines near the picnic tables especially were noted. I was then excited to hear ravens rather than the usual Torresian Crow. A quick search in the mist revealed at least four
Australian Ravens with their prominent throat cackles and higher-pitch and more drawn-out call. Besides the abundant
Australian Brush-Turkey which fill these leaf-litter rich forests floors here, a single emerald
Green Catbird was surprisingly visible right near its close bowerbird cousins. There was a second catbird seen later on during the walk but not a single one heard.
Green Catbird
The small birds started to materialise as the mist cleared and the sunshine began to overtake the clouds. A single male
Superb Fairywren sat brilliantly near a picnic table while a pair of
Red-browed Finches were courting and nest-building. They are monogamous birds, and both finches incubate and feed the young. Pair bonding remains constant throughout the year, even when moving in flocks outside the breeding season. In the right conditions, groups nest communally with several nests in a tree and I could hear more finches around. The habituated parrots which are fed at the eating area were also starting to appear; dozens of
Australian King-Parrots started materialising in the large rainforest trees that towered above the rest. There was one male with a few yellow markings that made for a very distinct bird. The
Crimson Rosellas were far sparser; saw only four by the end of the day but heard many more rosella whistles. I saw a
Pale-headed Rosella about half a hour away from the bunyas along the road that connects to the rainforest; I wonder if the two species hybridise where their altitudes meet like in the Sunshine Coast.
Superb Fairywren
Red-browed Finch
The rainforest classics appear consistently in the picnic grounds along the rainforest fringes. A fleeting but frustrating sighting of an antechinus on the barbeque top was memorable to see. It was completely out in the open but bolted and jumped off the table as soon as I saw it.
Brown Gerygones remain low and vocal; in a couple of scrubby places overlapping their feeding with chatty
White-browed Scrubwrens. There were both
Australian Rufous and
Grey Fantails along with more elusive
Golden Whistlers.
Lewin’s Honeyeaters were present as well. The fantails here were fluffed up and looked larger than usual. Unlike Lamington, the small birds aren’t fed daily but the range of species was very strong and pleasing thus far.
Brown Gerygone
White-browed Scrubwren
The Scenic Circuit was a four-kilometre trek of thick rainforest, rocky outcrops, two waterfalls and an expansive lookout. The walk was a challenge following frequent rain a few days prior leaving the ground a muddy wasteland. I saw dingo tracks (domestic dogs are banned in the area) notably in the mud but didn’t see any. I do believe I heard some howling early in the morning but they mainly stick to the accommodation areas where there are less people and even more wallabies and pademelons to hunt.
Eastern Yellow Robins, Yellow-throated Scrubwrens and
Large-billed Scrubwrens filled the ferny parts of the walk along the usual fleeting glimpses of
Eastern Whipbirds as they scuttle across the ground. At one point there were three males ‘whipping’ one after each other with a single female responding. The clear streams of water were filled with large tadpoles, diving beetles and a rather prehistoric-looking dragonfly –
Sigma Darner – only found in mountainous rainforest. A
Black-faced Monarch was also spotted. I also heard a riflebird call as well which are found here in the Bunyas unlike lyrebirds.
Eastern Yellow Robin
Bunya Pines
Birds weren’t the only creatures around. A large
Lace Monitor emerged from the grassland that sits in front of the rainforest. Over hundred native grasslands, known locally as 'balds', are dotted across the Bunya Mountains. The vulnerable blue grass was first discovered in the Bunya Mountains and grows only in the eastern Darling Downs. Swamp rats, brown quail and fairywrens live in these grasslands, as do other animals that would not survive inside dense forests. The rare and endemic Bunya Sunskink also lives in this grassland. I actually found a small skink but wasn’t quick enough to get a good look. Next time…The old plump monitor headed into the camp ground, no doubt to terrorise unsuspecting campers and raid any food items that had been left out in the open. It was on a mission. Butterflies were another highlight with a few sections of open sunny spaces;
Monarchs and
Blue Tigers were everywhere. As weather-dependent visitors to the region, it had been a few years since I had seen Blue Tigers as there had been a lot of rain and generally, they come towards the coast when there is drought. Inside the forest, I was excited to find three
Bank’s Browns sunning in a small patch of light. This species of brown butterfly is a type found in south-eastern Australia but just reaches this region at its northerly limit. A semi-slug that needs to be identified properly was a unique point of difference as well along with many flower wasps and grass moths along the balds.
Lace Monitor
Bank’s Brown
The Bunya Mountains was magical and I will definitely return soon for a longer trip. The dramatic landscape, unique cool climate, cloud-covered forest and vibrant blend of western, southern and wet forest species creates this to be an unmissable sight. Its isolation makes it unique and possess a sacred quality. Never had I been taken aback by such a landscape; wilderness in its purest sense. On my way back I ventured into the Yarraman Weir Park for a few western species. It was a low-stakes trip as I was happy with my apostlebirds already seen but was thrilled to immediately pick up a nice lifer around the creek area. Among masses of
Plumed Whistling-Ducks, I found a single
Eastern Long-necked Turtle on the roadside with its beady little eyes tucked into its shell. It was seemingly unharmed so I moved it to nearby stream to avoid it been squashed by a car. It would be an uncommon find for Brisbane but around Toowoomba they are recorded more often. Overall, a very memorable and successful day.
Eastern Long-necked Turtle