The Aotearoa Adventure: Pachyderm Pro Goes to New Zealand

pachyderm pro

Well-Known Member
5+ year member
There comes a time in every young zoo nerd's life where he must leave the comforts of his home country in pursuit of wildlife abroad. For me that time has finally come. Tomorrow I will board a plane and spend the next two weeks in New Zealand’s Northern Island; Te Ika-a-Māui. Along the way, stops at roughly a dozen zoological facilities, museums, and wild areas, all filled with rare birds whose names I can’t pronounce yet. To be honest, I never anticipated that middle-earth would be the location of my first international zoo trip – it’s certainly not anywhere near the premier zoo destinations of Germany, The Netherlands, Singapore, etc. However, sometimes in life unexpected opportunities arise that you just can’t pass up. I suppose some background is in order.

Members of this site range from casual zoo hobbyists, current/former keepers, and a small number of young aspiring zoo professionals. I fall into the latter category. I’m currently pursuing a degree in Animal Sciences with a double minor in wildlife and business. This is the beginning stage of pursuing a career in the zoo field and realizing my life long ambition of working with animals. Yep, no joke. Turns out nine years of involvement on a zoo forum has started to pay off! Anyway, thanks to a generous scholarship and well written admissions essay, I will be participating in a short-term study abroad program centered around avian care and conservation management. Through this course I’ll experience an intensive series of lectures, workshops, and hands-on work with numerous species alongside experienced keepers and veterinarians. Given the idiosyncrasies of New Zealand’s endemic birds, most of which I’ll never be able to see anywhere else, it was a no-brainer.

It’s especially exciting because I realized not too long ago that I haven’t seen any of New Zealand’s endemic wildlife. Even the ones that are present in the U.S. in smallish numbers (kiwi, kea, black teal, tuatara) have evaded me for years. No matter, I’ll be getting them all in spades shortly. The fact that I’m getting the chance to see dozens of species that even a majority of dedicated zoo enthusiasts may never see in their lifetimes is a blessing that I won't take for granted.

I have a hectic few days of travel ahead of me. We will be starting up North in Auckland and heading all the way down to Wellington over the course of the next two weeks, with most of that time in between being spent in Palmerston North. Before that however, I have 18 hours worth of flying from Chicago to Auckland to look forward to… keep me in your thoughts and prayers.
 
Have a safe journey, Pachy!! New Zealand does sound like a crazy choice with how far it is from a lot of places. Good luck with pursuing your degree as well.

On a side note I have a small request. I know that they are a menace on the islands, but if you see any brush tail possums can you spare a minute or two to watch them? Not only is this a species not kept in the US (and won’t be returning any time soon thanks to the Lacey Act), but they tend to be globally under appreciated, even without their invasive status on the way. I don’t expect you to be empathetic to the invasive population of possums in NZ, but I imagine it would be an enchanting encounter to meet what is basically the Australian equivalent of a raccoon, which (for some reason) isn’t as well known as a raccoon.
 
On a side note I have a small request. I know that they are a menace on the islands, but if you see any brush tail possums can you spare a minute or two to watch them? Not only is this a species not kept in the US (and won’t be returning any time soon thanks to the Lacey Act), but they tend to be globally under appreciated, even without their invasive status on the way. I don’t expect you to be empathetic to the invasive population of possums in NZ, but I imagine it would be an enchanting encounter to meet what is basically the Australian equivalent of a raccoon, which (for some reason) isn’t as well known as a raccoon.
For the sake of local wildlife I sincerely hope I don't see any possums. As neat as they are, I would have intently mixed feelings considering the damage they've dealt to the country (although the mustelids are the real villains...). I'll have other opportunities to see them in the future and more than enough other lifeticks to look forward to on this trip both in captive and wild settings, but if I stumble upon one I'll report back.
 
For the sake of local wildlife I sincerely hope I don't see any possums. As neat as they are, I would have intently mixed feelings considering the damage they've dealt to the country (although the mustelids are the real villains...). I'll have other opportunities to see them in the future and more than enough other lifeticks to look forward to on this trip both in captive and wild settings, but if I stumble upon one I'll report back.

I just went to New Zealand in January. You are likely going to see possums. And rats. And rabbits. Outside of restored areas in exclusion fences New Zealand is thoroughly invaded by non-native animals. If you have a chance to visit Zealandia in Wellington would highly recommend it, especially taking the night tour. That will give you a taste of what restored New Zealand looks like.
 
For the sake of local wildlife I sincerely hope I don't see any possums. As neat as they are, I would have intently mixed feelings considering the damage they've dealt to the country (although the mustelids are the real villains...)
So be it. However I do want to ask, do you hope to avoid seeing highways, towns, and farms for the sake of local wildlife as well?
 
So be it. However I do want to ask, do you hope to avoid seeing highways, towns, and farms for the sake of local wildlife as well?
Touché. ;) It's just one of those things where I'd feel a little guilty enjoying seeing them where they shouldn't be. Regardless, they aren't disappearing overnight whether I see one or not, so if/when do I will cherish it as they are indeed a fascinating species.
 
I'll be following this thread closely in preparation for my possible trip to Australia and New Zealand next year. I'm sure you'll provide a lot of useful information.

Of course, I wish you the best with both this experience and your studies.
 
Arrival in Auckland & First Impressions

After a grueling 24 hours of traveling, I’ve officially left North America for the first time and touched down in New Zealand's business capital shortly before 6:00 AM this morning. First it was a humble, modest four hours from O’Hare to LAX. That was followed by a four hour layover which gave me ample time to stretch my legs and mentally prepare for the 13 hour flight to my final destination. LAX was a very nice airport even if I was charged $20 for a single burger with no sides (no wonder so many California zookeepers are unionizing…). The second leg was pretty brutal as I could only sleep through so much sitting upright, but five naps, two airplane meals, and 26 episodes of Young Sheldon later, the journey was completed.

We arrived just as the sun began to rise which kicked off a long day of exploring Auckland. I’ll just cut right to the chase and say that I absolutely loved it. Auckland embodies everything that I believe large cities should be and generally speaking is clean, safe, walkable and thoughtfully planned out. Modern architectural marvels and historic behemoths (including several amazing cathedrals) flow together perfectly among beautifully designed green spaces. So many streets that just feel pleasant to walk through because you can tell a real effort was made to create an inviting atmosphere. The rich coffee culture was also a pleasant surprise and it was wonderful to check out all of the charming coffee shops spread throughout the city. What really threw me for a tizzy however was the number of vape shops. It felt like every third eatery had a mini smoke store directly next door and the number of smokers overall was rather surprising.

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View from my hotel room.

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The iconic Sky Tower.


Checked out several scenic locations throughout the day by taking the hop-on/off bus tour (imperative for any first-timers wanting to do all of the touristy things). One of my favorites was Albert Park, a lovely plaza that wouldn't look out of place in San Diego or San Francisco. Started by briefly touring the Auckland Art Gallery which was great for what it is and provides a lot of value as a free attraction. Because I’m not particularly interested in what was displayed, that's all I have to say about it. Lots of birds made residence throughout the park: pigeons, house finches, sparrows, and European starlings – not exactly the riveting lineup of avian locals I came all this way to see. There was also an introduced flock of eastern rosellas which were a bit more interesting around these parts, but it was still a sort of grim reminder of how badly the endemic birds have declined and how much biodiversity has been lost across the country.

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Albert Park.

However, a reminder that not all hope is lost came around shortly there after. After hearing some commotion in some bushes across the street from the historic clock tower, out emerged my first endemic bird; a tui. It was screaming its head off about something, but was a marvelous specimen with its distinctive white throat tuft. Wish I was able to get a clearer photo before it flew off, although seeing an endemic bird of any variety in an urban setting is a win in itself.

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The tantrum throwing tui.

Capped off the evening by watching a gorgeous sunset from the pier adjacent to the maritime museum with some others from my program. One of those views that reminds you that this is the point.

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Ending the day right.

One other thing. After visiting exactly 50 American zoos, today I hit a significant milestone – my first zoological collection outside of the United States! That synchronicity is very satisfying, but the collection in question isn't the one most of you probably think it is. My full thoughts will come shortly, but because I’m running on fumes and will be down for the count about a second after this gets posted, you’ll have to wait a bit longer to hear about it.

Call it novelty bias, but Auckland has quickly become one of my favorite cities. One day wasn’t nearly enough to do this place justice and there are a number of activities I didn't have time for: dolphin/whale watching, checking out some of the offshore islands, the war museum, wintergardens, etc. All the more reason to one day return, but perhaps I’m getting ahead of myself. After all, I do technically still have another day in this city tomorrow, I’ll just be spending almost all of it at a certain zoological attraction that has garnered a passionate following on this site and will likely be the highlight of this trip.

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Skyline view taken near the entrance to my 51st collection.
 

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Considering these aren't in NZ at all what were you actually seeing haha, European Goldfinches?
European Goldfinch doesn't look anything like House Finch, however - Redpoll strikes me as a likelier option.
I'm thinking either a reflex typing and it's supposed to be just House Sparrow, or otherwise male Chaffinch seems most likely.
 
Maybe Redpolls behave differently in New Zealand than they do in North America, but it would surprise me if Redpolls were commonly sighted in urban Aukland.
Redpolls are in urban spaces and can be quite chooky but yeah not really urban Auckland [pretty uncommon in Auckland/up north, for Auckland the most 'reliable' spot would probably be Manakapua/Big Sand Island and an urban bird would be quite unexpected]
European Goldfinch doesn't look anything like House Finch, however - Redpoll strikes me as a likelier option.
Wasn't putting it as all too serious of a suggestion, just the first common finch that came to mind, think Chlidonias is probably correct.
 
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I can’t put a finger on the reason, but a city being next to the sea (or a large body of water) feels like one of the most soothing things in life. It gives off the feeling that there’s a whole world out there. It’s a feeling I only started to feel after moving to Istanbul from Ankara. I can see Auckland being an enjoyable city for that reason alone if I ever see myself going there one day.
 
I'm thinking either a reflex typing and it's supposed to be just House Sparrow, or otherwise male Chaffinch seems most likely.
A reflex indeed — they were just sparrows. :p
I can’t put a finger on the reason, but a city being next to the sea (or a large body of water) feels like one of the most soothing things in life. It gives off the feeling that there’s a whole world out there. It’s a feeling I only started to feel after moving to Istanbul from Ankara. I can see Auckland being an enjoyable city for that reason alone if I ever see myself going there one day.
In my experience, being located near a large body of water is what elevates the truly great cities from the merely good. It’s respite from the urban sprawl that can often feel imposing. Auckland does a terrific job at intergrading natural landscapes between its most densely populated areas and after sleeping on it, I can it’s probably the most naturally beautiful city I’ve visited. I’m curious to see how Wellington measures up.
 
A reflex indeed — they were just sparrows. :p

In my experience, being located near a large body of water is what elevates the truly great cities from the merely good. It’s respite from the urban sprawl that can often feel imposing. Auckland does a terrific job at intergrading natural landscapes between its most densely populated areas and after sleeping on it, I can it’s probably the most naturally beautiful city I’ve visited. I’m curious to see how Wellington measures up.
Actually, and although this is only my opinion, it depends a lot on the city and its idiosyncrasies. For example, I live in Barcelona and previously lived in Madrid. Barcelona has a seafront and beach, while Madrid doesn't. But I prefer Madrid to Barcelona because, to me, having a sea near to the city means nothing if the coast is overrun with tourists and there isn't even a quiet spot, which is what happens in Barcelona. On the other hand, in quieter cities, the sea is a welcome haven of peace. Something similar happens with large parks, forests, or mountains near large cities: simply having a piece of nature nearby brings peace.
 
SEA LIFE Kelly Tarlton’s Aquarium

Located across the road from Okahu Bay, Auckland’s aquarium was the passion project of famed diver and marine conservationist Kelly Tarlton. It opened as Kelly Tarlton’s Underwater World in 1984, but after working 18-hour days to construct the facility in just ten months, he unfortunately died only a few weeks after it's completion. The website claims it was four times larger than any other aquarium in the world at this time, but unless I’m misinterpreting that statement there’s no way that’s accurate. Since then the aquarium has been purchased by Merlin Entertainments, renamed to fall in line with the ever-expanding SEA LIFE brand.

My first impression of the aquarium was largely one of bewilderment. This place wins my coveted award for having the most unassuming entrance of all time by a fairly wide margin. Tucked away along the side of the road is an entrance building that looks smaller than an amateur aquatics shop and is rather unshowy. Looks are deceiving however, as all that’s inside the entrance building is a winding ramp leading to the aquarium itself, which is located entirely underground. It was built out of abandoned sewage tanks, meaning it’s both directly under a busy road and abutting the waterfront. The whole thing is essentially one long hallway and I was able to comfortably see anything in an hour, even while lingering at certain spots.

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Entrance Building

Immediately upon entering the aquarium proper you are thrusted into a mock replica of a hut used by Captain Robert F. Scott during his ill-fated expedition to Antarctica. This is a precursor to a spacious exhibit for what’s apparently the largest captive colony of penguins south of the equator, with over 70 king and gentoo penguins. The kings in particular were feeling extra gung-ho and were hassling one another much to my amusement. One of them took a particular interest in me, following me around and seemingly trying to size me up by the glass, even bringing his buddies over to back him up (but we all know I could've handled them). Antarctic penguins don’t always get enclosures that do them justice, but this among the very best I’ve seen anywhere and made for a strong first impression. From the impressive enclosure to the winding ramps to the displays on Antarctic expeditions, the whole thing reminded me of a lite version of Detroit's penguin center which is more of a compliment than it may seem.

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Penguin Exhibit w/ the waddling instigator

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The king penguin crew

Lots of neat things that followed: a series of jelly displays including some that were new to me, some magnified tanks shaped like bubbles, and my first tuataras in an excellent exhibit. Cute isn’t a word many would use to describe lizards, but there’s something oddly endearing about these guys and they were a clear highlight. There’s an open-topped tank with viewing windows that gradually slope downward to the deepest point. Green sea turtles as the star attraction, but also several species of ray including the highly rare southern eagle ray (kept at only two collections). Some windows at the aquariums center provide a view out towards the bay which was a neat touch as well.

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The first cold-blooded lifetick of this trip.

Along with the penguins, the Oceanarium is the big appeal for most people and perhaps something of a notable exhibit in zoo/aquarium history. Apparently Tarlton was the one who pioneered the concept of acrylic underwater tunnels in aquariums, molding them in his own custom built oven. Someone more knowledgeable on the subject may be able to elaborate, but it seems that this was the first ever walkthrough tunnel in an aquarium. Knowing the significance of what this display inspired made it easier to appreciate, but at the end of the day it is just another aquarium tunnel that's become so incredibly commonplace. Broadnose sevengill sharks are pretty cool though, another new one for yours truly.

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Oceanarium Tunnel -- a KT original

Rounding out the aquarium is a dimmed room containing a few touch tanks as well as some of the most interesting members of the collection. Most impressive is a lengthy, narrow exhibit for longfin eels, another local species I had been eagerly anticipating. Packhorse lobsters were another surprise that caught my attention, large crustaceans are always winners with me. There’s also a small room that's an offshoot from the eels called Seahorse Kingdom, although with several tanks being redone, I only did see one seahorse species and a very cool one at that – spiny sea dragons; a vibrant deep water species that can’t be found at any other facility worldwide. Apparently that haven't even been kept in captivity until somewhat recently which makes it all the more special I got to see them here.

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Spiny Sea Dragon -- a KT exclusive

SeaLife facilities are the McDonalds of the aquarium world: quick, easy, basic aquarium experiences that are great for kids and the general public. Until now I’ve only ever been to SeaLife Minnesota in Mall of America, but for the most part if you’ve seen one you’ve seen them all and (besides seeing the dugongs in Sydney) I’ve never had a desire to visit another one. Kelly Tarlton’s isn’t a total exception as it does still have the usual tacky thematics and commercial appeal associated with the brand, but as the second largest aquarium in New Zealand (out of two, to be fair) there’s a lot of value here. It certainly helps that this place wasn't built to be just another cookie-cutter chain aquarium, but was a real labor of love by someone who devoted his life to ocean conservation. I’m certainly not aware of another SeaLife that has such an impressive penguin exhibit, or such a high number of genuine rarities, or such a unique location. Absolutely worth checking out if you’re in the area.
 
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