Although this thread has moved beyond carnivores, I hope some of you might be interested in my experience of trekking for Snow Leopard sightings in Hemis National Park, Ladakh, northern India, in February-March 2013.
Me and my girlfriend did this organised trip with Exodus; an important factor in choosing this tour company was that we genuinely believe they are concerned with the eco-friendly aspect of eco-tourism, helping local people to live a traditional, sustainable lifestyle. For instance, water boiling facilities have been installed in villages (the plastic of bottled water is a huge problem in Ladakh); village homestays are supported to provide some income for cash-poor villagers; young men are being employed as guides and porters so they will have interest in their local area and its wildlife - if this pride and knowledge is lost for a generation it may be impossible to get it back in the future. Hemis National Park has reached a point where there is currently zero poaching, because local villagers have realised that (as well as its intrinsic value) wildlife is more valuable alive than dead with the eco-tourists coming in.
In late February we made the terrifying and beautiful flight into Leh, over the Himalayas from Delhi. This time of year is seriously cold of course, but it coincides with Snow Leopard mating season, and Leopard sightings are generally more likely because the cats (and their prey) are forced down from the high peaks by snow and cold.
After a few days acclimatisation for altitudes up to 4,500 metres, we heard from a friend of the tour leader that a Snow Leopard kill had been spotted in the Tarbans valley south of Leh. This was a day earlier than our planned trek into the mountains, but the opportunity was too good to miss, so along with part of the group we took cars to the edge of the National Park, then walked for a couple of hours to the kill site.
The altitude was hard - I was quite ill later in the day after descending back to Leh - but we were rewarded with something I'd dreamed of for twenty years, a Snow Leopard sighting! Not just one cat, but a mating pair (as the experts interpreted it, I thought it might be a mother and last year's cub). The male had made the kill further down the valley and been joined by the female the next day, a Dutch guy (who had amazing footage of the cat on the carcass) told us. We watched this pair for around 5 hours, just sleeping mostly, but sometimes rewarding us with a look around or even a stretch and short wander around.
The next day we trekked to our camp in the Rumbak gorge for 5 days under canvas in temperatures down to around minus 23. Luckily most of us were well-prepared for the cold. The following day (Feb 26th) our guides were out early and reported sightings in the Husing valley. This day would turn out to provide almost ridiculously wonderful wildlife sightings.
First, a mother and cub were spotted beyond a wall, about 200 metres distant, although I 'only' saw one cat - but what a great sighting. Next the pair moved to a high ridge for a spell of resting - I spotted them through the scope as they emerged through a gap in the rocks.
Later in the afternoon, the mother was on the move, sparking activity in the group of watching humans, which included a group from the Snow Leopard Conservancy - among them was the well-known Snow Leopard conservationist Rodney Jackson, who kindly had time to speak to me for a spell and inscribe my girlfriend's log book with a message.
The mother had spotted Bharal (Blue Sheep) on the other side of the valley, and we could follow her (with difficulty through scopes and binoculars) make the long traverse of around a kilometre or so to a position on cliffs above the small herd of Blue Sheep.
My girlfriend had her locked in with binoculars, but I had lost her at this point - disaster! I pleaded for directions. 'Find a rock like a lion's head', she said - unlikely, I thought in this wilderness of rocks - but, yes there it was, exactly as she described. A few moves up the cliff face, and I had the beautiful sight of the female Leopard, stalking her main prey of Blue Sheep.
What followed was extraordinary; the cat had what amounted to a face-off for perhaps a quarter of an hour with first a female then a male Bharal. The cat seemed within pouncing distance, and the tension was almost unbearable - at any moment we could be witnessing a Snow Leopard hunt, not on a BBC documentary (even that would be rare), but in real life! Leopard and sheep were around a corner of outcrop from each other, but eventually we saw the male Bharal stamping his hooves, tail up in alarm mode, so he knew death was literally around the corner from him, and the Leopard's hunt was more or less up from that point.
The sheep skipped off down the cliff face, and the Snow Leopard ascended to a rock to sleep off her mental and physical exertions. This wasn't the end of the day, however, as we later saw the female Leopard retrace her steps to her cub across screes and snow fields, at times calling as she went. Mother and young were re-united, and the last we saw of them was as they disappeared through the gap in the ridge where I had spotted them hours before that morning. The whole day was like a story-book, the day in the life of a Snow Leopard.
After a day of snow (our only bad weather among days of brilliant sunshine), we had yet another Leopard sighting, near the first site in the Tarbans valley. This time in was a lone female. Late in the day back at camp, we could follow her through scopes as she made her way off for the night.
Following a homestay in the village of Rumbak (including a fine Red Fox viewing), our last full day was rewarded with yet another long Snow Leopard sighting. A cat had been reported over the walkie-talkie grapevine back near our camp, and we made a headlong descent down the gorge, having got our mountain legs and lungs now. This cat was a distinctive older male, and again a large group watched him for maybe 4 hours. At the end of the day, he made his way off up the valley, going we know not where. It was a fitting and moving finale to our Snow Leopard sightings. A member of our group has posted a video of this on youtube - see the link below.
Snow leopard - Ladakh - Mar 2013 - Exodus trek - Steve Terry - YouTube
Other wildlife spotted on the trip included Urial, Pica, Yak, Lammergier, Golden Eagle, Choughs, Snow Bunting, Robin Accentor, Himalayan Vulture (?), and no doubt some others I can't bring to mind. Wolves howled one night as we lay in our sleeping bags - this was the most eerie and blood-curdling sound I've ever heard, in fact I hope I never experience anything quite that scary again.
We watched Snow Leopards for an estimated 20 hours, seeing maybe 5 or 6 different individuals. We were incredibly lucky -a wildlife photographer who arrived as we were packing up saw nothing, for instance.
Thanks for reading if you got this far, I hope it was interesting.